CV Joints Clicking in turns ?

Hello,
Relatives' car has severe clicking when turning the wheel, especially at starts & low speed tight turns. I'm guessing this is the CV joints getting worn? Is this a difficult job to do for a driveway mechanic that does have his limits?
No lift, compressor or air tools. Thanks.

Sometimes it's easier to just get a rebuilt axle shaft, that way you won't need to reclamp the boots on your own. Also, complete reman shafts are quite often the same price or just a little more than a joint and less work to put in.

If you don't have a floor jack, jack stands a good set of wrenches and sockets, a torque wrench to tighten the axle shaft and wheels and some good pry tools and maybe a hub puller it may be best to let someone else do it.

Clifton

Good idea about the torque wrench; good luck convincing the backyarders to actually use one though. What do you need a hub puller for? Don't recall that being needed for a shaft change.

It's been awhile since I did one, I stand corrected. Thanks for reminding me.

Clifton

Thanks for the replies everyone. Any rough estimates what this would cost at a garage? Axles seem to be about $60.00 -$100.00 each depending on remanufactured, etc. I'm on a budget and weighing my options. Thanks.

I have had some pretty tight hubs some rusted on and even a puller had trouble removing it have had to cut off some

I recently attempted to replace the right front drive shaft on my 97 Mazda 626. I haven't done this for several years. I took off the wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor, tie rod and removed the bolt holding the lower ball joint.

I used a crow bar to separate the ball joint on the lower control arm from the wheel hub assembly. The lower ball joint was loose but there was some compressing force pushing the lower control arm ball joint up into the wheel hub assembly. I think it was caused by a little rod connecting the lower control arm to the anti-sway bar. I tried to disconnect this rod from the lower control arm but the threads on the bolt were rusted and the bolt itself pivots like a ball joint. So you need to hold the bolt still using an allen wrench and use a box-end wrench to remove the nut. It's very difficult to get at when you are on a floor in a condominium garage.

Can someone tell me if I am correct about disconnecting the anti-sway bar from the lower control arm to remove the compression on the ball joint? If so, how do I disconnect it without cutting it off with a torch? If I am wrong about this, what do I need to do to remove this compression?

Does anyone have an electronic copy of the service manual containing the procedure for driveshaft removal?

-swman

I had the same problem with my 94 626 and it was (like everyone else has said) the axle needs to be replaced. Just go out and buy a new axle. If you have a decent knowledge and an afternoon you can do it. My dad and I on our second try got it done in little over an hour. The axle just pops right in. We unbolted the lower control arm and just swung the whole suspension/brake/axle assembly out and pulled the old axle out.

hope this helps