EGR valve
Jerry80871852
08-02-2006, 01:24 PM
How much has any of you paid for an EGR valve? I have took mine off 2 times and cleaned it up, which after both times it worked right good for a while.
But it seems to want to keep on sticking, now it idles rough, sometime it will die. Aggravating.
But it seems to want to keep on sticking, now it idles rough, sometime it will die. Aggravating.
silicon212
08-02-2006, 02:17 PM
How much has any of you paid for an EGR valve? I have took mine off 2 times and cleaned it up, which after both times it worked right good for a while.
But it seems to want to keep on sticking, now it idles rough, sometime it will die. Aggravating.
A replacement EGR valve for my '88 Caprice, as in my sig, cost me $95 but it's an AC/Delco unit. Expect to pay that, possibly more.
But it seems to want to keep on sticking, now it idles rough, sometime it will die. Aggravating.
A replacement EGR valve for my '88 Caprice, as in my sig, cost me $95 but it's an AC/Delco unit. Expect to pay that, possibly more.
Jerry80871852
08-02-2006, 02:31 PM
Thank you for the reply. Sometime back I had been told by someone they cost over $300.00, I thought that was extremely expensive for such a small looking valve.
I wanted to see what others had paid for them before going to my local parts store which I usually buy such stuff from. I surely did not want to pay $300.00 or more if it was unnecessary.
I wanted to see what others had paid for them before going to my local parts store which I usually buy such stuff from. I surely did not want to pay $300.00 or more if it was unnecessary.
Mango™
08-07-2006, 05:53 PM
my local autozone quoted me $39.99 for a 91 s-10 v6 4.3 liter, call 972-274-0445
MT-2500
08-07-2006, 06:00 PM
How much has any of you paid for an EGR valve? I have took mine off 2 times and cleaned it up, which after both times it worked right good for a while.
But it seems to want to keep on sticking, now it idles rough, sometime it will die. Aggravating.
It is not how much but how good?
Electronic or vacume? Electronic will be higher.
But remember dealer OEM parts will only hurt one time.
After market cheap crap will bite you in the rear many times.
What is your old one doing or not doing?
Any codes?
And remember a code does not say replace the part it says check it out.
MT
But it seems to want to keep on sticking, now it idles rough, sometime it will die. Aggravating.
It is not how much but how good?
Electronic or vacume? Electronic will be higher.
But remember dealer OEM parts will only hurt one time.
After market cheap crap will bite you in the rear many times.
What is your old one doing or not doing?
Any codes?
And remember a code does not say replace the part it says check it out.
MT
dmbrisket 51
08-07-2006, 06:37 PM
some egr valves have 3 selonoids in them and do cost up to 300 or more for the delco replacement, but i dont think that the s 10's ever had those (unless the cpi did, never seen a cpi s 10 in the shop), they are more common on the 31, 34 and 3800 moters, a delco replacement for an s 10 should be around 100, and no, your not just buying a name, your buying quality... saying we have a college and work is, Autozones starters and alternaters come with a lifetime warrenty so you can keep replacing them for life
Supergumby
08-07-2006, 07:21 PM
Hey Jerry.
Your engine has a Linear EGR valve, it's the expensive one.
99 out of 100 times the valve is not the problem, the carbon buildup in the intake manifold passages is. Pieces of this carbon break free and get lodged in the pintle of the valve, holding it open and making your engine run poorly.
I'm not sure of a proper way to clean these deposits, I've had limited success with the 'coat hanger and blowgun' method. Maybe someone else will ring in with a better way.
But either way, don't rush out and get a new valve until you're sure you need one.
Your engine has a Linear EGR valve, it's the expensive one.
99 out of 100 times the valve is not the problem, the carbon buildup in the intake manifold passages is. Pieces of this carbon break free and get lodged in the pintle of the valve, holding it open and making your engine run poorly.
I'm not sure of a proper way to clean these deposits, I've had limited success with the 'coat hanger and blowgun' method. Maybe someone else will ring in with a better way.
But either way, don't rush out and get a new valve until you're sure you need one.
whitelightning603
08-22-2006, 09:58 AM
some shops in my area(winston-salem,nc) have a screen made in the gasket that keeps carbon chunks from interfering with the valve.
ravine
09-29-2006, 05:45 PM
:2cents: I just bought one for a 95 s 10 blazer 4.3 vortec cost 150.00, did not make a difference for mine running any different:banghead:
landyman
10-09-2006, 08:46 AM
just like whitelighting603 said, use the gasket with the screen in it and it will take care of the problem....first take the egr valve off and clean it with choke cleaner and replace the original gasket with the gasket with the screen in it....the gasket with the screen in it cost about $5.00
vaughnj
10-09-2006, 06:27 PM
I've had this problem and cleaned the valve three times in the last 4 years. Now, it has just stopped running. I cleaned the valve again but no luck. It runs if I use starting fluid in the throttle body. There is pressure on the injector rail. The fuel pump does run when the key is turned on. should I replace the valve?
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