97 running very hot [Resolved.....Finally!]

All gaskets i've seen are marked, and you'd have to be high to put them on wrong.. I believe if they were on backwards, the coolant ports would still line up, but one of the intake runners would be off. He still hasn't tried a factory GM t-stat or checked water pump flow. Did you boil that t-stat on the stove? That's about the only way to test one. I think a cup cools off to quick..

O.K. Here is the big question for all of you experienced wrench twisters out there. And I almost hate to even ask it.

Is it possible to put the intake manifold gaskets on backwards or upside down and block the water ports and thus restrict or stop the coolant flow? I am being told that this is very possible. Even to the point that the bolt holes will still line up but the coolant ports won't.

I think after all this poor guy's been through, we'd have tripped over something by now.

Oh and BTW I just went down and bought a brand new 195° T-Stat and threw it into a cup of boiling water and it didn't even open at all.
I am an oldtimer and use to mess with Mopars a lot in my younger days, and intake and head gaskets both was easy to mess up and if you was high well that a different story, but then if was not reading on some the bolt holes would line up but like the back flow hole would be in front on the gasket instead of the back where it was on the head.

The gaskets had nipples on them that would make them only go on one way. There on right. Im sure i didnt mess anything up in the manifold.

Well one more t-stat today making it a total of 5. I got a superstant from advance. the guy said its the best one they have and if it fails it will open instead of close. I also put on a new water pump. I took the old one apart it didnt look that bad. But now i can have a flow problem. so new t-stat and water pump. I put the stat in boiling water it did open mroe then the older one. Im gonna take it on a 75 mile trip to my buddys house tonight. If i fixed it. I will know tonight if not:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: its going to a shop. cuz i dont know what else it could be. I also flushed the rad reall good when i did the pump. I also cold burbed it. And the advanced guy told me to little it idle with heat on full blast and every 5 min go out and losen the t-fitting i have for flushing my sysem like a half turn to let the air out. so now is when i cross my fingres.

No one has seemed to mention this yet, but how old are the radiator hoses on your truck? As they age sometimes they will collapse in on themself but the outside would look perfectly normal. Had it happen on a firebird last summer and went through all the stuff you're right now.

No one has seemed to mention this yet, but how old are the radiator hoses on your truck? As they age sometimes they will collapse in on themself but the outside would look perfectly normal. Had it happen on a firebird last summer and went through all the stuff you're right now.


Well no luck w/ what i did today. W/ a/c on and driving on the highway it hit 235 ish. As soon as i slowed to in town driving it shot to 260 and my check gauges light came. On the way back i drove w/o a/c and it was a small dasher hotter than 210. It moved a lil bit w/ changes of driving but stayed around 210.

The hoses. Yea it is an idea, When i took them off for the pump i looked to see if they had gunk in them, i would have noticed if there were deteriating on the inside it seemed alright.

Im gonna drop it off at a shop 2-morro and hope to find out what it is. Hopefully they will be able to give me a clear reason. worst case is ill rip the manifold back off and start from square one. ill let you guys know when i know

Ok, go get this professionally checked, you are destroying your truck allowing it to overheat constantly.

It cannot take a trial and error fix. You engine will be shot before you find out what it is.

Take it to a shop or you won't have an engine to cool in a day or two.

Yeah, and let us know what it is this has me as messed up as the time I was trying to figure out why a '70 440 RT ran hot idling in hot weather and come to fine out someone had knocked two freeze plugs the block when they was changing them and due to gunk and the way one was turned and wedged it was blocking the flow.

Ok, go get this professionally checked, you are destroying your truck allowing it to overheat constantly.

It cannot take a trial and error fix. You engine will be shot before you find out what it is.

Take it to a shop or you won't have an engine to cool in a day or two.


when it hits red, i shut it off, when its around 235 ish, that middle haser between 210 and 260 thats when i turn off the a/c and take it very easy, when i gets hotter i look for a car wash and hose down the rad. But im done im not blowing it up(altough if it would, perfect time for bullet proff rebuild:grinyes: ) but not yet.

The gaskets had nipples on them that would make them only go on one way. There on right. Im sure i didnt mess anything up in the manifold.

My humble apologies, but I have never had the misfortune of correcting one of GM's Greatest Screw-ups of all time, which is replacing the intake manifold gaskets on a 4.3L. :screwy: (All mine were covered under warranty).

But is there any way the right and left gaskets got mixed up or would it make a difference? If you think about it, improperly installed gaskets would almost explain everything. It started right after your repair, the clear water in the T-Stat housing, and orange coolant in the rad, the fact that repeated burping won't help. 5 T-stats, no-way they're all bad.

I'm not telling you to go out and rip the intake manifold off, but something is restricting the flow on this thing, or the Temperature sending unit is bad or blocked which I doubt. The last thing I can think of is to remove the Temperature Sending unit and make sure it isn't caked with crud.

I agree with BlazerLT, bite the bullet and get an estimate from a reputable shop.:banghead:

My humble apologies, but I have never had the misfortune of correcting one of GM's Greatest Screw-ups of all time, which is replacing the intake manifold gaskets on a 4.3L. :screwy: (All mine were covered under warranty).

But is there any way the right and left gaskets got mixed up or would it make a difference? If you think about it, improperly installed gaskets would almost explain everything. It started right after your repair, the clear water in the T-Stat housing, and orange coolant in the rad, the fact that repeated burping won't help. 5 T-stats, no-way they're all bad.

I'm not telling you to go out and rip the intake manifold off, but something is restricting the flow on this thing, or the Temperature sending unit is bad or blocked which I doubt. The last thing I can think of is to remove the Temperature Sending unit and make sure it isn't caked with crud.

I agree with BlazerLT, bite the bullet and get an estimate from a reputable shop.:banghead:
I forgot about the sending unit, good one, or try one of those add on gauges and see if it matches what your's is reading.

I forgot about the sending unit, good one, or try one of those add on gauges and see if it matches what your's is reading.

it could be off. I would doubt it may be. But when it does get hot and i give it gas, it has no power. U can hear the motor is hot. If i have my arm out the window when i come to a stop i can feel the heat coming out of the car.

Well brother, I just read your first post that started this thread. You had none of these problems before the Intake manifold gaskets were replaced, now you do. You've thrown just about every part at it in the cooling system except the Radiator, including water pump, fan clutch, T-stat, etc.

I know you said the the gasket job was done right, but logically, something must have gone wrong. If in-fact the engine is running that hot, something is blocking the coolant flow.

Is there any chance that you were sold the wrong gaskets?

This is going to sound real stupid, but is there any chance that a Rag or something was stuffed into the radiator, head or intake manifold to keep the crud out, that was inadvertently left in there?

Man I'm out of ideas. Have you taken this thing in to a shop yet?

Well brother, I just read your first post that started this thread. You had none of these problems before the Intake manifold gaskets were replaced, now you do. You've thrown just about every part at it in the cooling system except the Radiator, including water pump, fan clutch, T-stat, etc.

I know you said the the gasket job was done right, but logically, something must have gone wrong. If in-fact the engine is running that hot, something is blocking the coolant flow.

Is there any chance that you were sold the wrong gaskets?

This is going to sound real stupid, but is there any chance that a Rag or something was stuffed into the radiator, head or intake manifold to keep the crud out, that was inadvertently left in there?

Man I'm out of ideas. Have you taken this thing in to a shop yet?


Your right that really is the only thing that is left in the sytem. But when i put them on. All the ports have there own like hole, they all lined up. But if it was the manifold gasket mess up. Why would it only over heat some of the time. after all that i put on w/o a/c normal driving its perfect. If there was a blackage i should have some resctriction that would cause the temp to rise. even at idle, Atleast you would think so.............. I drove 25 mile w/o a/c slow/hard, highway/town and it was right under 210 the whole time just like it used to be. id turn the a/c it would jump to 210 a little over during highway, BUT as soon as i would slow down to town thats when im noticing it creap up to 230 ish. So i pin pointed when it does just not why. Im gonna drop it off tonight and let them look at it. If there like well u dumb ass u never hooked this up or somthing like that well then ill wear the dunce cap, and if there scrathin there heads just like all you guys who have been helpin me. Wed, my day off the manifold is coming off.

Also when i was talking to the guy at the shop about the fan clutchs. He said if my car hits 210 that fan is soppsed to rise from hell w/ air to cool down the car. Just like it does when u start up the car for the first time. Mine doesnt do that, never did(also never overheated) even w/ 2 new clutches. So may be crap brand of clutchs

Also asked about the t-stats. He said they dont open much at all. 1/8-1/4 is all hes has ever seen from them. So i can take my "what is" off the t-stat

Maybe the store got a bad batch of clutches. They just don't know it yet.

This is not a fan problem, this is a flow or sender problem.

When the truck is driving along at highway speeds the fan is doing NOTHING but basically freewheeling.

If it is overheating on the highway driving along then a heatgasket is gone, the rad is plugged or the sender is sending a bad signal to the dash which has to be referenced with a OBDII monitor to see if the computer is seeing the same temps the dash is reporting.

This is not a fan problem, this is a flow or sender problem.

When the truck is driving along at highway speeds the fan is doing NOTHING but basically freewheeling.

If it is overheating on the highway driving along then a heatgasket is gone, the rad is plugged or the sender is sending a bad signal to the dash which has to be referenced with a OBDII monitor to see if the computer is seeing the same temps the dash is reporting.


i agree w/ the freewhell at highway. but the temp jumps up more when i go from high way to town driving. Thats when it gets the hottest. And where i can hit upwards of 230. Shouldnt the fan kick in then?

It should be pulling airthrough at a higher rate.

But if the sender is bad, the dash will be reading high and the fan won't be howling seeing actually, it is running normally.

That or the rad is so plugged that the limited amount of coolant going through it isn't transmitting enough heat to the air to get the fan going.

I say dash signal sender or rad that needs replacing.

I bought my fan clutch at Autozone -- they only carry a Heavy Duty model for around $75. After warm up, it had the fan howling full time today -- the fan sound only diminished when I hit 55 mph.

This is not a fan problem, this is a flow or sender problem.

When the truck is driving along at highway speeds the fan is doing NOTHING but basically freewheeling.

If it is overheating on the highway driving along then a heatgasket is gone, the rad is plugged or the sender is sending a bad signal to the dash which has to be referenced with a OBDII monitor to see if the computer is seeing the same temps the dash is reporting.
Been out of touch today, this was honeydew day, Honey do this, had to put in a dishwasher, she did not like the red head I found down the street to do the dishes but you might have done something to the temp sending unit when you done the manifold job or pinched a wire. Not being a smart a** or nothing just trying to cover the bases.

the original rad on my 97 (as well as many others) cracked up at the plastic neck.

As much as I hate to throw parts at a problem, I think that a new rad on a 10 year-old truck could be justified as preventive maintenance and upkeep.

I think it was BlazerLT who had a rad problem where it leaked into the tranny fluid.

I vote replace the rad ...



i agree w/ the freewhell at highway. but the temp jumps up more when i go from high way to town driving. Thats when it gets the hottest. And where i can hit upwards of 230. Shouldnt the fan kick in then?

The shop just called. He said 80% chance the gaskets are on wrong. He was telling me the ports line up, Just not the front where the termostat port is. So 2-morro ill rip it all back apart:banghead:. and hopefully the gaskets are on wrong, so i can find the bug in the system and i would preety much kick my self in the ass REAL hard for this and one and feel complety RETARDED. I have a feeling that manifolds gonna me real qucik this time, now that i know how to get it on and off.

The shop just called. He said 80% chance the gaskets are on wrong. He was telling me the ports line up, Just not the front where the termostat port is. So 2-morro ill rip it all back apart:banghead:. and hopefully the gaskets are on wrong, so i can find the bug in the system and i would preety much kick my self in the ass REAL hard for this and one and feel complety RETARDED. I have a feeling that manifolds gonna me real qucik this time, now that i know how to get it on and off.
I know it's a costly mistake but when you learn like that it's a leason you never forget and I know I have made some in my time and are going make some more in the future.

I had to take a day to welcome my Grandson into the world. Don't worry about making mistakes. Just be a big enough man to post the actual results on this forum so others will benefit regardless of how stupid it may seem. I just spent $350 bux over a F@#$ing fuse that cost less than a dollar. See my thread on Ignition/Fuse! But thanks to this forum , others will benefit.

yea im not gonna shy away from saying i screw up once and a while, its not the first time and unfortanitly not the last. the shop head told me he messed up one before and blew his motor, he said, its a mistake everyone only does ONCE. Well i got it out of my system.............. hopefully im gonna tear it down tonight and put it back together 2-morro

Well i just ripped it out. I was hopping for a huge sign. every port wasnt blocked at all. i swaped the gasket side to side and everything still lines up. No im complety stumped

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e319/eslhockey92g/untitledfd.jpg

Thats what it looked like when i took it off.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e319/eslhockey92g/untitledfdf.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e319/eslhockey92g/untitledf.jpg

W/o gaskets

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e319/eslhockey92g/erer.jpg

hard to tell but these are both gaskets stacked on top of each other.

The only thing that has blockage, is what looks like to be an oil path. But i dont have an oil problem. I flushed the rad real good and all the pasage ways. Im gonna put it all back together and take it out and see what happens. I was told by my uncle who works on cars if im hitting upwarsd of 230, that clutch should be locked regardless if im on the highway or not. He thinks the middle of the fan clutch isnt getting hot enough to engage. He also thinks by the 2" body lift that could be another reason its gettting as hot as it is. So its almost back to the clutch. or a temp sending unit now. im gonna take it out get it hot and stop at a shop and see if they can hook a scaner up to it and see what the temp really is. If its hot i guess ill drop the dime on an ACdelco fan clutch that i know will work verse cheap advance one OR an e-fan conversion witch im leaning towards due to the body lift

Do you still have the original gaskets? If you do, compare them with the ones you just removed. It appears that the gasket is blocking the little holes under the center bolt holes, is that what you meant by a blocked oil passage?

Do you still have the original gaskets? If you do, compare them with the ones you just removed. It appears that the gasket is blocking the little holes under the center bolt holes, is that what you meant by a blocked oil passage?


I checked them, They are the same. The way the manifold meets w/ the heads where the one passage is blocked. It not a staight on connection. What i mean is the head port is lower then the head port. I took and put it on the head,(what u see in the pic) and then i put them on the manifold, and where that one beam on the gasket was blocking the one hole, Isnt blocking it on the manifold. So only 1/2 the port is really lined up. but theres not oil that flows though there i dont think. I think that on the heads it was almost just a dent verse a port. well its all back together. I burbed it good, and new oil. ill let it sit for a bit for everthing to settle then ill take it out and see what happens

He also thinks by the 2" body lift that could be another reason its gettting as hot as it is.

I don't get the Lift Kit thing. What does the lift kit have to do with the cooling system? Unless you removed the fan shroud due to the fan hitting the shroud or something, I don't understand.

When you took this truck into the shop, didn't they check it with an OBDII scanner?

I still think the rad is blocked.

I still think the rad is blocked.

That's about all that is left on this truck that he hasn't replaced.

I can't believe that two fan clutches and 5 T-stats are all bad from the box. He claims to have flushed the rad 3-4 times, but I never saw where any cleaners were used. If this latest round doesn't fix this truck, I am sticking to my original diagnosis of restricted flow, which could be a plugged Rad.

What doesn't make any sense is why all of a sudden after a major repair.

After your thread about bad rads and tranny failures, maybe it's not such a bad idea to swap out the Rad.

I have 98. Also did the intake manifold gasket and that kept the water out of my oil. However, that was back in April and now running hot again. Today discovered it is the water pump. This is going to happen when we keep trying to hang 'on to these high-mileage wheels.

I have 98. Also did the intake manifold gasket and that kept the water out of my oil. However, that was back in April and now running hot again. Today discovered it is the water pump. This is going to happen when we keep trying to hang 'on to these high-mileage wheels.

Sorry, I ain't buying it.:banghead:

Proper and routine maintenace will keep you running cool. :grinyes:

Yes, parts will need to be replaced but running hot and overheating is not something we simply have to live with.:shakehead

True.

I was thinking about the lift and how it would effect. Is there any chance that by doing the body lift the fan clutch is now lower then the bow tie on the grill. Giving it unblocked airflow beside rad and condesor to the metal spring on the front of the fan clutch. verse before when the clutch was directly behind the grill. If this is possible it could explain why its not locking up,,,,,, may be.

No i didnt use any chemcals to clean the sytem. Just used a pressure washer on the hoses connected to the rad. I got a good flow comming out. Im gonna get it hot 2-morro and check all four coners of the again. If its even then i dont think i have blockage, If it isnt well the rad needs the boot. I was thinking about getting rid of the orgianl fan and switch to e-fans. I herd that when people do body lifts the go to e-fans. Atleast on the older modles. also i think it would help be cuz it would keep it cool ebfore it gets hot. And once it gets hot and if i get stuck in traffic it will still cool down the rad where the old style is pretty worthless.

Nothing wrong with the normal fan.

Don't start making this worse than what it is.

You have a flow problem, not a fan problem.

This is an air problem for sure.

I'm not seeing the signs of air in the system. Usually if there's air, you can rev the engine and the temp will drop. He has the opposite reaction.

Finally coming around?

I think that the gage is off a bit or the sender and maybe it is not overheating at all? All of the "bad" fan clutches have kicked on for a few seconds and kicked right back off. Has this at any time boiled? even setting running with the cap off?

Another thing that seems kinda strange is that you describe the gage moving very quickly and temps do not change rapidly like that.

Well anyways if it is overheating in addition to all the other things mentioned retarted timing will cause the exhaust temp to go sky-high and an increase in the colant temp. It'll be good to check the actual temp of the coolant and compare to the gage.

A 192 stat will run a range of 195-200, Isn't this the correct stat?

There's no way to spin the pump backwards with the belt install right?

Some more random ideas,,

Nothing wrong with the normal fan.

Don't start making this worse than what it is.

You have a flow problem, not a fan problem.

AMEN! The possibility that the original fan clutch failed, then a new fan clutch failed, then a second new fan clutch failed, is highly unlikely. I don't think you want to start messing around with an electric fan either.

This Rad is simply not cooling the coolant. It is either airbound or clogged, but based on the owner's posts, it doesn't sound to me that the coolant is being cooled.

Why does it seem to work slightly better at high speeds? My theory is that the ambient air rushing through the radiator at 60 MPH is better than any fan will pull, and the rad will perform to the best of its plugged up ability at higher speeds. The second you slow down, you'll start to overheat again.

Even though I recommend a full Rad replacement, I'll bet that if this rad were taken into a rad shop for a rod out, you'd find it at least 50% blocked.

:2cents:

I called a dealership. They want about 450 to do an acid flush, w/ all new coolant and what not. That seems preety steep. But he said it does a very good job. Is this something i should try my self before i toss up for a new rad? I guess im down to some type or flush and a rad.

Another thing i was thinking leaning towards a bad temp sender or what ever it is. If im hitting 260, Shouldnt i have steam and hear all kinds of bad noises from my car. When i pulled over the one time at around 240 ish, i poped the hood and i herd nothing. should i hear somthing that doesnt sounds right under the hood.

I called a dealership. They want about 450 to do an acid flush, w/ all new coolant and what not. That seems preety steep. But he said it does a very good job. Is this something i should try my self before i toss up for a new rad? I guess im down to some type or flush and a rad.

Another thing i was thinking leaning towards a bad temp sender or what ever it is. If im hitting 260, Shouldnt i have steam and hear all kinds of bad noises from my car. When i pulled over the one time at around 240 ish, i poped the hood and i herd nothing. should i hear somthing that doesnt sounds right under the hood.

Before you drop $450 USD on an acid flush, price out a brand new Radiator. I think you can find them for around half that price. Besides, Radiators do wear out. These rads are plastic and aluminum, and you'll be better off in the long run with a brand new one.

That's true. I'd hate to drop $450 on an old radiator. You never know when a tank is going to blow.

EDIT: Just priced some new rad.'s. Most were $200'ish

went to the dealership and my buddy was working:grinyes: :grinyes: we hooked it up the the tech 2. All my gauges are working fine. So i am running dangerously hot. We came to the conclusion that the rad has to be clog. When i turn the hear on it cools down so the water pump works. We put an ac delco clucth on it did the same thing as mine, clucht and pump are good. We got it hot 200 ish. and open the rad cap and reved it up, and almost nothing came out of the fins in the rad. I got a rad though him for 100 bux :grinyes: so ill pop that in sometime soon and see what happens. He was telling we the acid rinse isnt as good due to the fac it will eat aliminum. and if its and older rad it could really damage it. and for the price im gonna toss in a rad and hope for the best.

Today, man Today, before you really toast this engine.

I'm surprised I haven't seen you on the road, from your posts we travel alot on the same roads.

You mentioned that you used a pressure washer to wash out your coolant passages. Try a pressure washer again but this time do the reverse of what you did before. somehow I think one of your engine block passages has a bunch of crud in it.

Pull your heater hoses and run it through both hoses one then the other.

Next take off your upper and lower radiator hoses flush through the bottom one first , then the top one down, then do the same to the radiator with no hoses hooked to it.

hook all of the hoses back up and loosen your water pump bolts, run water through it again from the radiator through the filler neck.

Now remove the thermostat and run water through the block. Hopefully this will remove the blockage.

Sounds like you have a infared tester. Check the temp at the freeze plugs but watch out for those hot manifolds. If there is a big difference in temp there is a blockage.

Just another test before you go spending money.

im on 309 every day and NE extesion,turn pike here and there. I did see a blazer all blacked out w/ rims that looked like you,i got excited cuz id LOVE to hear the charger. But i know u got a little bit of work done to yours:grinyes: :grinyes: when i herd it it was stock:disappoin .

Any way i poped the new rad in and MAN was that thing shot. I had a hose running in the outlet so the water would come out the inlet(reverse flush), and it hardly ran out. Then i did the oppisite and it was hardly flowing out of the inner fins, More like a steam then a good flow. That may have been my culprut Knock on wood I started it,burbed it and let it sat for 20 min w/ a/c on. The temp before would jump to 210 then come back to 190 ish for the first time. This time it slowly creeped up to 190 ish and stayed there.I was watching the inner fins though the rad filler. and there were coolant flowing very nicly though all the fins i could see. Verse before it was only the top one i would see, and i could see about 4 deep when the level would drop. Im gonna go for a crusie tonight and see what happens. Ill know tonight if its fixed or not Due to the fact its the only thing left i have good feelings on this one

Like I said same roads! 309 is in bad shape right now, I'll be glad when they are finished. Hit a couple of those storm drains thought I broke something!

My wife is a Pastry Chef at Normandy Farms. so I usually travel 309 a couple of times a week.

Hope that the radiator was the culprit. Seems like the radiator acts like a big filter.

I'm having a fuel issue right now ,so I haven't drove the Blazer in a week. will fix it tommorow so I'll get to drive it this weekend.

Like I said same roads! 309 is in bad shape right now, I'll be glad when they are finished. Hit a couple of those storm drains thought I broke something!

My wife is a Pastry Chef at Normandy Farms. so I usually travel 309 a couple of times a week.

Hope that the radiator was the culprit. Seems like the radiator acts like a big filter.

I'm having a fuel issue right now ,so I haven't drove the Blazer in a week. will fix it tommorow so I'll get to drive it this weekend.


That place sounds soooo fimalir. I live right of the souderton exit. I usally am in qakertown or montgoreryville, The only close places around to burn up time. and the roads in qakertown are TERRIBLE. they act like they been working on them but never do. BUt thats cool small world. ill deff be on the look if i see that ss on a blazer. Ill be that a-hole in you rearveiw given the :bigthumb: U hear about the powerlines faling today at the montgoemryville cycle center? High power lines fell across 4 lanes and were on fire, and peco couldnt shut them down


any way

FIXED

The rad was the last step that i needed. Man does it run sooo much better. W/ a/c on full and driving up big hills that temp would even touch 210. I have notice its always moving though. It will get on the small dasher hotter then the half way mark on the cold side. Then move one dasher colder then the 210 and just bounch around in there. Just t-stat opening and closing i guess. It gets me nevrous seeing it moves up but if i drive faster it goes down faster. I couldnt be happier when i didnt see that neddle touch 210. I even did a little dance haha. I figerd it was approtiate. I still have a very slight air in the heat core. it goes away when it gets hot. i think i got it out tonight on my hot burp(twisting the rap cap 1/2 way to let the pressure of, i wear chem/heat resitant gloves and i stand back, not the safest way but it does work) Im still checkin it every morning for a lil bit still. toped of the tranny and oil levels from the rad swap taking it for a longer drive 2-morro in the middle of the day, the big test to wether its fixed or not. It will go though highway, stop and go, and town driving for about an 2.5 hours round trip and ill have the a/c on the whole time ill let you guys know 2-morro.Now i just hope i didnt do any major damage to the motor from them extreme temps. It runs,idles, and starts up fine no knocks or sputters. I think i got realll lucky on this one.


Thanks in advanced guys. to all who delt w/ my crap and scrathing heads for the last week and stuck though w/ helping me to the end. I honestly would not have done it w/o you guys.
Thank you - Adam

Your welcome!

Quick question before we close this thread. What is the optional temp range of a 4.3.

I've got a new engine, new trans...all new sensors (including ECT) and a new rad, thermostat, fan clutch...dexcool had less than 3K miles on it and my scanner shows a constant (after warm up) temp of 205 F.

I see posts with people running at 195 and knowing that the CSFI in my '98 is extremely sensitive to engine temp I thought I'd ask.

Mike

Might be a good idea to change the transmission fluid since it got hot so many times..just a thought..

205 degrees sounds OK

Might be a good idea to change the transmission fluid since it got hot so many times..just a thought..

205 degrees sounds OK


I wanted to flush it and get a filter for it. It will be done in the next two weeks for sure just getting time to do it, Or having a shop do it. Its on that big list of to-do's before i go back to school

Good deal man,I am glad you got 'er fixed, I was out of thr picture a day or two there and missed the last I had went to a car sale but I am glad you got it back to running.

It's a shame you had to waste so much time and labor to find it, but at least you get 'er goin. And it only took 8 pages!

It's a shame you had to waste so much time and labor to find it, but at least you get 'er goin. And it only took 8 pages!


haha yea i know,Im sure a few people would like to see this thread to go away But hey if it was easy every one would do it. Im glad i stuck it out and was able to do it myself w/ all of ur guys help. I took on a big drive today. stayed a solid 190-200. a/c all the way.

haha yea i know,Im sure a few people would like to see this thread to go away But hey if it was easy every one would do it. Im glad i stuck it out and was able to do it myself w/ all of ur guys help. I took on a big drive today. stayed a solid 190-200. a/c all the way.

:bananasmi