99 Burb w/power door lock problem

My right rear passenger power door lock stopped working (have to lock/unlock manually). Replaced the actuator last night and that was not the problem. Still will not work. Any other ideas I should look at. All the other door locks work fine.

Thanks.

What a coincidence. I have a 99 as well and I just noticed that the same door is NOT locking on it’s own either. I would be very interested in finding out what you find.

There's been several posts about door locks quiting or more like getting gummed up. Usually, you see it "try" to lock or unlock, but it won't quite get the job done. Our '99 driver door does it every once in a while.. Just need to get in the door and start lubing it. Rarely is it the actuator, but ours hasn't quit enough to warrant dissassembly.. FYI.. Pat

Did you ever find out the problem? I have the problem with both rear doors (driver's & passenger side) of a '99 Suburban.

Mine will "freeze" in the locked or unlocked position when it gets cold enough.

Right now it is more of a nuisance problem - just have to remember to leave them locked this time of the year in the Adirondacks.

Would be curious if you figured out the problem though.
Thanks

Very Interesting. I Have A 2000 Tahoe Limited Built On The 1999 Platfrom And Use The Same Door Actuaters The Suburban Use.


Currently My Driver Door Actuater Is Not Working. It Acts Up Because When The Weather Is Cold It Will Work Fine (locking And Unlocking) But Not On Hot Days. My Best Hypothesis To This Problem Is, Any Car From 95-00 Are Now About Seven To Ten+ Years Old And The Grease (lube) The Factory Used Has Dried Up, Causing The Actuaters To Act Lazy.

My Tahoe Has Barn Doors, The Rear Door Actuater, I Was Able To Save, By Taking The Panel Off And Removing The Dried Up Dust-sleeve And Spraying Syntheic Motor Oil From A Spray Bottle Down Into The Mechanism. I Don't Understand Why Gm Uses Plastic And Metalic Parts In Their Actuaters. The Mech Doing The Work Is Metal But The Parts Moving The Lock Up And Down Are Plastic. The Dust Sleeve Is A Joke!!! I Tried To Save My Driver Door Actuater, But The Actuater Is Mounted And Moves Horizontally And Its Hard To Get Lube Deep Where It Needs To Go. The Rear Door Actuater Is Mounted Vertically And The Lube Worked Its Way Down Into The Mech Part.

I Hopes This Helps. I Happy I Got The Barn Door Working, But The Driver Door Is Driving Me Crazy. When I Have Enough Time, I Am Going To Remove The Old Actuater (drilling Out The Ribbits) And Installing A New One. It Going To Be So Much Work, That I Rather Not Try To Save The Actuater In There Now, When I Can Go With The Sure Route, Putting In A New One. The Actuater Is Running About $150 At The Dealership. Its Hard To Tell If Used Actuaters Work, So Ill Probabilly Go New.

Any Help Will Be Great!!!

Interesting. I Have The Same Problem Happening In My 2000 Tahoe Limited. It Uses The Same Actuators Your Suburbans Use.

My Tahoe Has Barn Doors And I Was Able To Save That Actuator, But Currently My Driver Door Is Acting Up.

I Have Come The Conclusion That The Cause Of This Problem Is Dried Up Grease. Any 95-00 Truck Is Now Seven To Ten+ Years Old. The Grease Gm Used Is Now Dried Up And Makes The Actuators Lazy. I Came To This Conclusion Because My Truck Is Black And When I Park At Home My Driver Door Faces The Sun. The Actuator Seems To Work On Cold Days But Never On Hot Days.

I Saved The Rear Door Actuator By Removing The Paneling And Cutting Off The Dust Sleeve. The Sleeve Is A Joke!!! It Was Dry And Cracking. I Used Syntheic Motor Oil, I Placed In A Spray Bottle, To Lubricate The Actuator. It Is Mounted Vertically So The Oil Worked Its Way Down Into The Actuator Mechanism. I Tried The Same Procedure For My Driver Door, But The That Actuator Is Mounted And Works Horizontally. It Hard To Get Lube Deep Into The Actuator Where It Needs To Get. The Actuator Is Combo Of Metal And Plastic Parts. Good Ole Gm Trying To Save Some Cost. The Part Of The Actuator That Does The Work Is Metalic, But The Moving Part Is Plastic And Sleeve Was A Joke.

My Driver Door Actuator Is Driving Me Crazy!!! If Anyone Can Help With More Ideas, Please Post.

I Am At The Point Of Replaceing The Actuator. I'm Going New Because It Is Hard To Tell If A Used Actuator Is Working Since It Is Not Connected To A Power Source. Getting The Actuator Out, Drilling Out The Ribbits, Is Going To Be A Lot Of Work That I Might As Well Replace It With A New One.

I know this sis an old posting but hope to get a resp, as this is the closest to my problem (after reading for an hour all the related postings).
Just bought a 97 Burb LT (to replace my old 97 Police Special :-) the wireless remote, both front door push buttons, and the rear side button open and close the drivers door only, the 3 passenger doors would not power open or close, not even click, but they can be opened and locked manually. Rear hatch/latch (glass flip up hatch) opens with push button on dash but not on the remote (remote is aftermarket Audiovox Premier alarm with single button to open and lock and second button to release "trunk"
Any help would be appreciated.