b-20 specs anyone know them

my mechanic just convinced me to drop a b-20 in my 91 civic dx sedan instead of a b-16/crv bottom end. anyone know the power behind this b-20 non v-tec

no specs, but how much is your b20 gonna cost? And how hard will it be to mount?

my mechanic was doing the b-16a for $2,500 complete swap. he had some extra b-20's in his truck and offered me one for $200 dollars more than the b-16 was gonna cost. i seen this as a very very good deal so i went ahead and eccepted this deal. he's doing it in one day so i dont know how hard it is to do.

i need specs on what i just did. i plan on going vtec in the future but not right now.

I see, I dunno the specs on it but your car is gonna make one hell of a sleeper, good luck my sedan friend

here are the specs for the B20...

B20B - USDM '97-'98 CR-V

126 hp @ 5400

133 lb-ft @ 4300

8.8:1

_____________________________

B20Z - USDM '99-'00 CR-V

146 hp @ 6200

133 lb-ft @ 4500

9.6:1

My Dad has a CRV with a B20Z2 and if you got that engine you will love the Torque.

He told you to do a B20 swap, instead of CRVtec? if he did WHAT A DUMBASS!!

The CRV motor has no top end power, so basically if your racing a semi-modded civic, your gonna launch good but hes gonna blow past you like you were sitting still. My friend put a B20 in his 90 hatch thinking it was gonna be the shit, he did the usual bolt ons and i killed him by 5 or 6 car lenghts, i have a 91 4dr with a semi-built B16.

Do the B16, B18c1, H22, B18b turbo, B18c5, CRVtec, LS/Vtec but NOT the B20 by itself, you will regret it heavily.

Yup...Drive for show, putt for dough.

dude stop like scaring him away all he has to do is the the b20z in his car and do and slap a turbo on it and your toaste and if he doesn't he can do some mods to the block and when he his ready drop the v-tec head on it and yet again everyone is gone.

dude whose your mechanic and wheres his shop,,,are those his regular prices for everybodies swaps or just for yours?

k first off a b-20 stock vs a b-16 stock in the same cars. the b-20 is gonna win even in the long run. sorry to tell you but the driver of that hatch must really suck!! and i plan on going with a vtec head in the future about 2-3 months, after that i will have no worries(hopefully):flipa: the only reason i went with the b-20 cause i think i got a freaken good deal on a freaken good engine. i should do very well even without the v-tec.

He owns his own shop here in central california, and im pretty good friends with him thats why he gave me that deal. i dont know the price he would charge for this swap, i can find out though so if your interested let me know. this dude is good at what he does he has a civic running 9's.

B20 stock and a turbo = blown motor
the block on a b20 snt that strong the Ls block is stronger

and what B20 you talking about USDM, JDM, old lude motor?

If your going to buy the B20 motor and plan on doing CRVtec down the line, why are you going to put it in now? Just wait and do it all right the 1st time why pull the motor twice?

But dude, do what you want. CRV motors dont have top end power, its been proven i WORK AT A DYNO, 120-130 hp out of one at the most and no top end power or torque. The kid that has the hatch is a good driver the motor is just weak at the top end. But anythings gonna feel faster than a stock SOHC, so go get it and see for yourself. :D

FYI, B20 and LS (block and head) are exactly the same except for piston diameter, hence the extra displacement. Oh, and intake manifolds are different too, everything else is the same.:D So whatever you can do to the goose, you can do to the gander. Just be careful doing a CRVtec, piston to valve clearance is tight. In fact, advancing the timing is not recommended or you'll ding your pistons goodbye and you'll be back to square one. I'm sure your local mechanic knows all this...:bloated:

ok might not have alot of top end but quarter mile is good and top end is not great but not bad. my car is a daily driver so i dont want to go to extremes but i do want a vtec head which will produce mad power

Originally posted by EF9JDM
B20 stock and a turbo = blown motor
the block on a b20 snt that strong the Ls block is stronger

and what B20 you talking about USDM, JDM, old lude motor?

Just so you know, the B20 is stronger than LS. The B20 has thicker sleeves than all the the B-series motors. :biggrin2:

The only good thing I like about the LS, is that it has aftermarket drop in block guards (like STR and Nuformz). I have yet to find a B20B/Z drop in block guard. :(

What are some quartermile times for those of you with a B16?

I found a guy with a B20B in a "Del Slow" with just an intake, on STREET tires, and stock exhaust running in the 14's. 14.891@90.676 to be exact. You can even go to his webiste and see his timeslip and list of mods with pictures.

http://home.attbi.com/~kaotik_individual/ Click TIMESLIPS

If his car weighed 2400 pounds at that run, I'd like to see what a light HB or CRX would run.

i have bolt ons, and a p&p' head and a 55shot of ZEX. I run constant 13.7s and withouth it run 14.4 or less.

I have a 91 4dr, 2104lbs you can see my car at...

www.1point6.onlineshowoff.com

But thats with all those mods... Did you ever run with the stock B16 alone?

yea i got a 92 hatch with a b20 in it and runss good but everyone seems to think b20 are no good. but i was just curious. it cuts off at like 7 rpms. i wanna v-tech it. but i wanna redline at like 9 or 10 is that possible? if so can u give me idea wat to do?

Jesus, 5 year old thread..is this a record?!

Look, start a new thread.

i need some info on my b20b. whats should i do to it. i have a great deal of money to spend. just dont know where to start. any idea or opinions.

Read this.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=576945&highlight=reliable+ls%2Fvtec

Just so you know, the B20 is stronger than LS. The B20 has thicker sleeves than all the the B-series motors. :biggrin2:

:(

Nope...B20 and B18 (LS) are identical...except B20 has bigger bore, making it weaker. So instead of getting a block guard like you planned...you're better off getting either motor sleeved.

Nope...B20 and B18 (LS) are identical...except B20 has bigger bore, making it weaker. So instead of getting a block guard like you planned...you're better off getting either motor sleeved.


That is also incorrect.

If the issue needs to be debated, then a new thread can be started.

I am locking this thread, as it is ancient.