It simply won't run right...

OK. I'm trying to get my car(the one in my sig) to run properly. It's stuttering. By stuttering I mean constantly, sounds kinda like a miss I'm not sure. It does it at any RPM, but I don't know if I lack power or not. Car was off the road for storage so I won't be able to drive it until I get it running. :banghead:

I've tried zeroing out the Maf Translator and retuning it using instuctions online, and I can tell I'm doing it right because the car is responding and improving when I do it. That miss is simply everpresent. So far, my list to try is:
Boost leak test, did one before it went into storage for the summer, but I'll do it again.
Reset BISS, I'm sure I've messed with this at some point.
Check plugs, wires, etc. Not really familiar with the Talon's Ignition system so I may as well learn it now :icon16:
I have a fuel filter lying around, and I'm sure that needs to be done so I'll change it too.
EDIT: I'm also going to doublecheck the timing...

I have a datalogger, but the palm pilot is a piece and doesn't work right so I can't use it. I'll be getting a new one, but it won't be here right away.

Is there anything I'm missing here? I miss my fast car and people are starting to doubt my mechanical ability :frown: The car was running a little rough for a bit, then one day it started doing this. If anyone has any ideas, suggestions, or advice please let me know. I need all the help I can get.

What plugs do you have in it and at what gap?

To be honest, I don't know. They were nearly new when I bought the car so I haven't changed them yet. I know better than to trust a PO on anything, but I was lazy. I am going to work on the car this evening so I will check that as well.

Make sure you have a dealer timing belt.

Make sure you have a dealer timing belt.

That really isn't such a big necessity, it's just something that some people like for a preference. I've done many timing jobs on aftermarket belts and not a single one has come back faulty yet.

Pyrofish, what are your compression numbers?

Are you missing at when ever the car is on? Or only durring WOT?

or have you checked your wires to see if they are grounding somewhere else? If they have a resistance over like .7 or something.... you need new wires, and could cause what you are saying. I had wires with a resistance of 5.0 yes... fucking 5 fixed the problem with new wires

:rolleyes: Ok, I got busy helping my dad with some things so I didn't even touch the car last night. I'll get to it this afternoon though. I have to go borrow a compression tester and I need a ride from my sister. I hate being car-less.

Oh, and it misses all the time. From idle to redline, regardless of throttle. I'll get back to you guys later today, and thanks for all the help so far. :)

I may have something here...

These are the plugs, in the same order as they were in the car. 1 and 4 melted!
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/1520/plugs002wr9.th.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/my.php?image=plugs002wr9.jpg)
They are the BPR6EIX NGK Iridiums. The NAPA in my litle podunk town only had 3 6ES in stock, and didn't carry the 7ES. I ended up replacing them with cheap-ass AutoLite plugs.

I also found 2 more leaks, nothing major, and sealed them up (one was my boost guage...yet another thing that I need to re-install correctly :disappoin )

I don't know if any of this fixed it, however, as my battery is dead and my Dad's battery charger blew up last week. Nobody is around to boost me. Figures.
I also made sure all the plug wires seemed ok and were attached solidly. My multimeter seems to have been misappropriated, so I haven't checked resistance. I haven't reset the BISS or checked timing because I can't start the car yet...
I'm staying optimistic and hoping it's good now, but with my luck it's as bad as ever. I'll post again when I've got it started.

Wholly shit...but that was about what I expected lol.

Should have just replaced them with the 6es instead of shooting yourself in the foot once again and buying the *cough* Autolites...might want to take them back before running them and exchange. Make sure you gap them.

Yeah, NAPA called me a half hour later 'cause they found another case of the 6es. So I returned the other ones and bought an extra set. Gapped at 028 and waiting for someone to come home and boost me :banghead: First stop, new battery.

Cross your fingers, boys...

Okay, I'm no mechanic (yet!), but isn't the reason why they burned important?

Yes. Yes it is. From what I read a little bit, we run the 7es instead of the 6es when we start to mod because it handles heat better? My car was probably knocking its ass off when my friend ran 87 in it too, so it may have had something to do with that. I'm going to look into it a bit tonight, as well as reading up on cams. Yay.


EDIT: Got it started. Still missing, still pissing me off. If the sparkplugs didn't fix it, and the rest of the ignition checks out, I'm assuming the melted plugs were a symptom and not a problem. Goody. I hope to check timing tomorrow.

Did you check to see if your coil pack is bad? And running 87 octane in a turbo dsm is a horrible idea. 92 and higher is the safest thing to use.

Yeah, I always run 91 or 93 depending where I'm getting gas. He only put in a quarter tank or so, so I drained most of it and made him put premium in it.:grinyes:

I'm short in tools at this house, 'cause I have no garage. I'll be getting a timing light and a multimeter (still can't find mine damnit) tomorrow likely, so then I'll be able to do some more. I'll just assume I can find instructions on testing the coil pack if I search around. Every other damned thing is online...

Well, I got my logger running. Stupid me didn't realise I had to calibrate the palm to make it work properly...I thought it was broken. I have a mechanic friend coming over to let me borrow a timing light and a compression tester, se I'll do some playing and see what I can figure out. Thanks to everyone for all the help.

I was playing around with my logger, and apparently I have an ECU Comm error.
That and my ABS light stays on. Fishy's gettin' nervous... I'll add more when I get a timing light and a 3rd party insight.

Third party on my end that is...you guys are great.

I was playing around with my logger, and apparently I have an ECU Comm error.
That and my ABS light stays on. Fishy's gettin' nervous... I'll add more when I get a timing light and a 3rd party insight.

Third party on my end that is...you guys are great.
Its all good man. I drove over a year with my ABS light on and it never hurt anything... Except for the days when my brakes would go completely out... Those were always fun days... :iceslolan

I've dealt with brake failure on this car already too. Last guy who worked on it let his upper piping rest against one of the metal ABS lines...it eventually cracked right at the coupler into the ABS unit dealie. On the highway. Under necessarily heavy braking. Most afraid I've ever been behind the wheel of a car.

...I can't tell which half of your post is being sarcastic and which half to take as advice :icon16:

lol No sarcasm intended. It seriously gave me no problems other than the times that would happen which was only a few times. lol

:eek:

Aw shit dude, is my car fucking haunted? Lame.

Turns out dude can't come over and give me a hand (or his tools :banghead: ) until tomorrow...so again I will simply curse the vehicle, and my fate.

Somewhere, somehow, I think I must've pissed karma off.

:eek:
...so again I will simply curse the vehicle, and my fate.

Get used to it as long as you own a DSM lol.

Alright, everybody on board the update train. Man I'm weird, anyway...

So, I was googling the ECU Comm Error I get, and it turns out it has to do with a bad connection between the ecu and the logger. I'm going to clean up the contacts in the car and tighten up the clips on the cable and that should fix that. This is one of the ebay cables that has loose wires to connect instead of a plug. The ABS light is also because of the homemade cable...nothign to worry about. My car is still fucked up and undrivable, but I'll be damned if I'm not feeling a little better.
Plus I'll have help and a timing light in the next 20 minutes or so.

Stupid car...I need a drink.

:banghead:




I started it up for a couple people to listen to and fiddle with...one asked me if I had over revved it because he said it sounded like a valve floated or something. The other said something similar, either a valve or I think he said valve springs? He wants me to get it towed into his shop so we can test it a little better, and start tearing it down if necessary. I just want this thing fixed. I'm unemployed and I need to sell it to pay off some debt while I'm job hunting. I've decided I need to drive a more responsible car until I have a little more money kicking around...I'll pick up another 1g in a few years when I'll be able to devote the time, energy and $$$ that they need. I just need to sell this one first!!!

AArg, ok. Where I imagined the boost controller would be (never needed to look for it before) on the line to the wastegate solenoid thinger, I see simply a t-connection with 5 inches of hose hanging off into oblivion...my boost guage kicked the shit about a month before the car went tits up. I see a connection here. My understanding of forced induction is, that with that line leaking boost all over the place there is nothing to tell the wastegate to open. Ja? Ja! This means that I would be boosting pretty damn high, ja? Causing bad things for the turbo and worse things for my poor motor running it's shitty 450cc injectors (not my idea...PO needs to get whooped). So instead of running a cautious amount of boost, I've been spinning my 16g as fast as the little fucker will go haven't I? Causing lean-ness and heat and melted spark plugs and a b0rked motor perhaps??? Fuck. Me. Running.

Every time something goes wrong on this vehicle, I can trace it back to a part that was installed/repaired by one man. A guy who runs a local tuner shop. He's only been around a few years, but he has a great rep and seems to really know his shit. Problem is he did all the work on this car for the PO...not me.

Oh well. I've got an 1/8th, a case of beer and a nice Partagas Serie D (mmmm, aged Cuban.......drool) that says I don't give a damn for the rest of the night.

PEACE!

Ok holllllly shit, first off, get me some compression numbers because that will mostly likely verify what I'm about to say. Running 87 on a modded DSM is a VERY bad idea, you'll knock like crazy and risk the chances of either melting a piston, or what I think happened to you, burnt valve. With the plugs burnt off like that and your car not running worth a shit, you most likely burnt valves 1 and 4. I would still like some compression numbers, because that should tell you if the valves are burnt or not.

Edit: A leakdown test would be the best thing because then you'll know where the air is escaping, but a compression tester is much easier to come by and use, so just get me some numbers.

It only had 87 in it for 10 miles or so. Still, I'm sure the guy wound the piss out of it... When it goes to my friends shop we'll compression test it and I'll ask him about a leakdown test. I'm sure they can do it.