Strokin? Need some advice

So as many of you know, I spun a bearing in my Talon and I am going to be rebuilding this winter. Well, I was just thinking while I was takin a piss, why not just stroke it? My original plan was to go with a 1g rod and whatever forged 8.5:1 compression pistons I could get for cheap. Stroking probably wont cost much or any more than the rebuild anyway since that crank might be junk. That rod was knocking hard, I wouldnt be suprised to see somee deep scars. So heres what I think. More baseline power/torque and rediculous spool. I am planning on getting a 50 trim or 60 trim (not 60-1) bastard will spool quick. I know that I wont be able to rev out that far, but I dont care too much because I dont think my tranny can handle shifts at 8500 anyway. Basically, I dont see any negatives to stoking so I think might go for it. What do you guys think?

I think if you stoke it you should go to Hyundai and order a new factory crank from their 92 2.4l Sonata, or find on in a junk yard and save a lot of $$ from going with a Mits or Eagle shaft.

keep in mind that 9/10 women prefer having it stroked. So, with that information alone I would say "make it so"..

I have no regrets over it. I can't rev as high, but I can spool a big ass turbo before 4k.

And I have more baseline power than a non-stroker. I think stroker is the best way to go unless you are going to make a super hardcore dragster, which most of us aren't.

Yeah, I think I am going to do it. Remanned cranks with bearings are $350 from SBR, I think I am going to do that. I could get a junk yard crank, but I am a little weary of just throwing it in and I dont really trust anyone around here to machine it. I think my plan is that is my stock crank is ok to just put right back in, I'll do that but if my crank is junk, I will just stroke it. Man, that 16g is going to be spooled basically all the time. How far do you 2.3 guys rev out?

Yeah, I think I am going to do it. Remanned cranks with bearings are $350 from SBR, I think I am going to do that. I could get a junk yard crank, but I am a little weary of just throwing it in and I dont really trust anyone around here to machine it. I think my plan is that is my stock crank is ok to just put right back in, I'll do that but if my crank is junk, I will just stroke it. Man, that 16g is going to be spooled basically all the time. How far do you 2.3 guys rev out?


It's pretty close to stock . I asked my shop about the REV limit when I was building my stroker, and they said that you'll be fine ususing the stock tach for reference on your redline. The big difference comes in the destroker really.


Well if you are going to stroke it, you can't use your stock crank, you are going to need to get a 2.4 crank. You should be able to get one cheaper than 350. I bought mine from a shop for like 200 bucks.

Strokers are decent but are more expensive than finding a 4g64 block and crank then adding eagle/crower rods and ross/wiseco pistons. Also, the adventure with the 16g isnt going to be as great as you're thinkin. Sure, great fucking spool time but that only leaves one thing left.... Airflow. The turbo wont be able to keep up so in return you will basically be choking the motor. You'd be better off with a 3052 or a 3065.

I wanted to stroke my motor or get a 2.4 so bad but something told me to keep the 2.0 Now with the GT42r on it, I still drive it daily and it spools just fine for me. When racing, I never lose more than 2-3psi between shifts. So dont talk about lag and spooling "big ass turbos" before 4k just because you have a stroked 2.0 or a 2.4

Good luck with whatever you choose.

:lol: Yeah, the 16g will be on there a very short time if on there at all. I'm thinking I am going to make a shopping list and not put the car on the road until it gets like 98% of the way its going to stay. Obviously the rebuild, DSMlink, the bigger turbo (undecided, SBR 50 or 60 trim?), FMIC, injectors, FPR, and fuel pump is what I think I am going to go with before it hits the streets again.

So how about that 2.4 block? Is it a direct put in? If so, that would be a good way to go. Then I could thow the spare 4g63 head on and go. What do you guys think?

Oh, what about the tranny? Direct bolt on?

Strokers are decent but are more expensive than finding a 4g64 block and crank then adding eagle/crower rods and ross/wiseco pistons. Also, the adventure with the 16g isnt going to be as great as you're thinkin. Sure, great fucking spool time but that only leaves one thing left.... Airflow. The turbo wont be able to keep up so in return you will basically be choking the motor. You'd be better off with a 3052 or a 3065.

I wanted to stroke my motor or get a 2.4 so bad but something told me to keep the 2.0 Now with the GT42r on it, I still drive it daily and it spools just fine for me. When racing, I never lose more than 2-3psi between shifts. So dont talk about lag and spooling "big ass turbos" before 4k just because you have a stroked 2.0 or a 2.4

Good luck with whatever you choose.

How do you figure they are more expensive? If you are going to stroke a 2.0 the price difference between that and putting forged pistons internals in a 2.4 is very slim.

When you stroke it, all they have to do extra is bore out the motor and you have to buy a new crank.

Even with a 2.4 you are going to still have to take the block to the machine shop and have basicly the same thing done to the block as you would the 2.0 the difference being that you don't have to purchase another crank, and you aren't boring out the cylinders .020 only boring it out to smooth the sides. You still have to do everything else.

The way you are looking at is spend the money for a new block and crank, +parts and do all the same machine work.

Or

Just buy a new crank, +parts and machine work.

Stroking the 2.0 is no more expensive than rebuilding a 2.4 with new parts. Machine work is very inexpensive. And to spend the money to buy a new block along with a new crank will make the 2.4 more costly than the 2.0.

Ontop of that the power gain over of the 2.4 over the 2.3 is minimal at best.

Than you have to worry about compatability issues. IMO the 2.3 stroker is going to cost you the same as the 2.4 idea if not less.

Also, you will noticed a difference in spool time from a 2.0 to a 2.3. Just because your car spools fine on your turbo doesn't mean that a 2.0 and 2.3 are alike on spool times.

would you like to sell that big 16g now cause i will take it off your hands

Well, I was just thinking while I was takin a piss, why not just stroke it?
:rofl: Remember Dustin, if you shake it more than 3 times your just playing with it

2.3 is the way to go. The 4g64 block takes a little work to drop in. If you really wanted to be unique SBR sells 2.4L 4g63 stroker kits but the kit is like $3k

do not, under any condition, buy anything from slowboy!

I have to disagree with cruncky's personal vendetta here.

I have to disagree with cruncky's personal vendetta here.


not just me


go to www.vendors-reviewed.com

go to forums/vendor complaints

grab some popcorn and read. You won't believe what they have done.

:rofl: Remember Dustin, if you shake it more than 3 times your just playing with it.
LMFAO!!! Thats awesome Scott.

I think I am going to just stroke the 4g63 even if it does cost a little more, I would way rather have the drop in ability and knowing that I have a basically brand new engine. I'll look around for a good 2.4 crank, get some clevite bearings, stay with the 1g rods, the cheapest forged stroker pistons I can get, possibly some SS valves (for nitrous :D), probably a water pump and a front cover. I hope I have the funds to get this car running by next year :(. I know that when I do, its going to be a fucking street terror :). Breakin is going to be a great :D.

Yeah, the local DSM "wiseman" has gotten stuff from them around 30 times. He said they have been good sometimes, but once he had to wait like 2 months for his clutch for his WRX. He blew the tranny and got a rebuild with a 3 month warranty. Well he had to wait 2 of those 3 months for the clutch. The tranny went out 3 days after the warranty was up. I on the other hand, have had 3 good experiences with them. My metal headgasket was here within a week, the valves and seals were here two day air as promised, and my buddy Mike's auto tensioner was here on Friday after ordering it Tuesday. I dont know, I am going to try to get everything local (when I am in the cities).

EXTREMEPSI.COM has to be the best damn site for parts. they sell everything oem and aftermarket and have way better prices than slowboy by far and you get the stuff a couple days later guaranteed.

How do you figure they are more expensive? If you are going to stroke a 2.0 the price difference between that and putting forged pistons internals in a 2.4 is very slim.

Wrong. Any 2.0 piston/rod combo bolts directly into any 4g64 block w/ crank. You dont have to buy custom pistons for a 2.4 unlike stroking a 2.0 you do. I can get pistons/rods for just over $600 brand new from my vendors where custom pistons, then buying rods separately for a stroked 2.0 can cost upwords of 8-900 depending on the brand.

When you stroke it, all they have to do extra is bore out the motor and you have to buy a new crank.

Wrong again... Why do you have to bore out the motor? You are correct about buying a new crank. But you also have to get custom pistons with the wrist pin pushed up into the piston to shorted the hight due to the fact that you just added to the stroke. Since you are using a different crank, it is important to line bore/hone the motor for the new crank to make sure the journals are perfect or you'll start spinning bearings.

Even with a 2.4 you are going to still have to take the block to the machine shop and have basicly the same thing done to the block as you would the 2.0 the difference being that you don't have to purchase another crank, and you aren't boring out the cylinders .020 only boring it out to smooth the sides. You still have to do everything else.

The way you are looking at is spend the money for a new block and crank, +parts and do all the same machine work.

Or

Just buy a new crank, +parts and machine work.

Wrong again. If you put a 2.4 crank in a 2.0 you must line bore/hone or you most likely will start spinning main bearings and probably end up with crankwalk. The main journals dont stay perfect after 50k+ miles on them, putting brand new bearings in old uneven journals is just plane stupid.

We are talking about the right way of building a motor, not the half assed, see how long it runs, save all the money you can, motor build.

Stroking the 2.0 is no more expensive than rebuilding a 2.4 with new parts. Machine work is very inexpensive. And to spend the money to buy a new block along with a new crank will make the 2.4 more costly than the 2.0.

Ontop of that the power gain over of the 2.4 over the 2.3 is minimal at best.

Than you have to worry about compatability issues. IMO the 2.3 stroker is going to cost you the same as the 2.4 idea if not less.

Wrong again. (Sence a pattern yet?) Machine work is actually quite spendy if done correctly. It will cost more to machine a 2.0 ready to be stroked to a 2.3 than it would be to machine a 2.4 block.

Compatability, WTF are you talking about? The 2.0 and 2.4 are identical blocks except for the fact that the 2.4 has a 86mm bore compared to a 2.0 with a 85mm bore and the deck hight on a 2.4 is 6mm taller that a 2.0, so where is there a compatability issue?


Also, you will noticed a difference in spool time from a 2.0 to a 2.3. Just because your car spools fine on your turbo doesn't mean that a 2.0 and 2.3 are alike on spool times.

Who the hell said spool times are the same? That is idiotic. A 2.3/2.4 will spool any turbo faster than a 2.0 except with the use of nitrous. 2.3/2.4 motors have a lot more displacement to help that turbo along nicely. Although the downfall is, a larger turbo is needed to make the same amount of power thoughout the entire power band or the motor will fall on its face in the upper RPM's.

I built motors for a living. Go to any vendor site and check out the prices of a built 2.4 or a stroked 2.0 then come back and tell me which one is more expensive to build.

Take SBR for example... Stage 1 built 2.4 = $2930.87 and for Stage 1 stroker 2.3 = $3398.95

But thanks for sharing your OPINION, and have a great day! :smooch:

Wrong. Any 2.0 piston/rod combo bolts directly into any 4g64 block w/ crank. You dont have to buy custom pistons for a 2.4 unlike stroking a 2.0 you do. I can get pistons/rods for just over $600 brand new from my vendors where custom pistons, then buying rods separately for a stroked 2.0 can cost upwords of 8-900 depending on the brand.

I think you misunderstood what my original post said. 1st. Yes a 2.0 piston/rod combo would fit in a 4g64 but he is going to have to buy new pistons and rods for a 4g64 just like he would if he was going to stroke a 2.0. I bought my pistons for my 2.3 stroker, for about 600 bucks. So don't tell me that the pistons for a 4g64 are going to cost less than a 2.3. (I used JE pistods and eagle rods) I also realize that I got a deal on the pistons/rods but even still I looked up the combo for a piston rod combo it was about 768 dollars. And that was from SBR I am sure there are better deals out there than those guys.



Wrong again... Why do you have to bore out the motor? You are correct about buying a new crank. But you also have to get custom pistons with the wrist pin pushed up into the piston to shorted the hight due to the fact that you just added to the stroke. Since you are using a different crank, it is important to line bore/hone the motor for the new crank to make sure the journals are perfect or you'll start spinning bearings.

When I was speaking of boring the motor of a 2.4. I was speaking of boring the motor for the new pistons. When I pulled my motor apart even if I hadn't stroked it I would have still had to bore it out to remove the imperfections of the cylinder wall.




Wrong again. If you put a 2.4 crank in a 2.0 you must line bore/hone or you most likely will start spinning main bearings and probably end up with crankwalk. The main journals dont stay perfect after 50k+ miles on them, putting brand new bearings in old uneven journals is just plane stupid.

We are talking about the right way of building a motor, not the half assed, see how long it runs, save all the money you can, motor build.


See the part where I said machine work? I think this covers this. Never in anything I said did I say you didn't have to line bore/hone the motor.




Wrong again. (Sence a pattern yet?) Machine work is actually quite spendy if done correctly. It will cost more to machine a 2.0 ready to be stroked to a 2.3 than it would be to machine a 2.4 block.

Compatability, WTF are you talking about? The 2.0 and 2.4 are identical blocks except for the fact that the 2.4 has a 86mm bore compared to a 2.0 with a 85mm bore and the deck hight on a 2.4 is 6mm taller that a 2.0, so where is there a compatability issue?


Machine work is not that expensive. Maybe I just have a good shop. I don't build motors for a living like you do. But It wasn't expensive at all.

Also, Okay. compatability, ya got me on that one. But either way He would still have to spend the money to buy a new block for the 2.4 or use his exsisting one for the 2.3


Who the hell said spool times are the same? That is idiotic. A 2.3/2.4 will spool any turbo faster than a 2.0 except with the use of nitrous. 2.3/2.4 motors have a lot more displacement to help that turbo along nicely. Although the downfall is, a larger turbo is needed to make the same amount of power thoughout the entire power band or the motor will fall on its face in the upper RPM's.

I built motors for a living. Go to any vendor site and check out the prices of a built 2.4 or a stroked 2.0 then come back and tell me which one is more expensive to build.

Take SBR for example... Stage 1 built 2.4 = $2930.87 and for Stage 1 stroker 2.3 = $3398.95

But thanks for sharing your OPINION, and have a great day! :smooch:

I have no arguments with you on the turbo.

You didn't have to be a fuck head about this and be a smart ass. My original post was not meant to be a personal attack on yourself. And maybe I didn't make some of my ideas as clear as I thought. But I have to disagree with you on the price difference. You are talking about 400 dollars from a vendor. I bought my rods and my pistons and took it to a machine shop and It was a hell of alot cheaper for my motor than 3300 dollars.

What it boils down to is this:
2.4 block/crank pistons/rods/bearings/machine work

2.3 : crank pistons/rods/bearings/machine work

I still fail to see how the 2.4 is less expensive than the 2.3. Other than what you said where the pistons being more expensive. Everything is basicly the same.(except .020 bore) And he would have to buy a new block for the 2.4.


Also with those prices.

Those are complete short blocks. The price would be different for him since he already has a 2.0 block. I don't think we can talk about the price difference of SBR's blocks because we are talking about what application is specificly cheaper for him at the moment.

If I remember correctly, I paid 1800 dollars for my pistons/rods/bearings/gaskets/bolts/studs a crank and all my machine work.

I paid abother 250 dollars for a brand new head.

Ok, so I have a good pager for you guys to read. So I was pretty gung ho to do this stroker. I am still am, however I am realizing how its not going to be really what I am after. I was looking for a quick spooling 450 hp street car. Well, there have been many experienced and knowledgable DSMers that have told me a GT35R is the smallest they would go on a stroker (yes all three said a GT35R was the smallest they would go).

I am kinda doing this build limiting myself to stock rods, internal WG, and tranny to keep the cost down a bit. Well, in doing a stroker and getting a GT35R, none of those are really an option. As they all pointed out, a 400 hp turbo isnt really that big of a deal to spool anyway. Actually, I rember being jokingly pissed off at the 16g spooling so early. I think a decently built 2.0 is the way to go for me. IIRC, a 50 trim spools at what, 3800? Thats just fine with me. Then I can take it out to 8000 ot 8500 without worrying too much Instead of 7000-7500. I was going to with a SBR 60 trim on the stroker but those spool at ~4000 so that would have been like 3200-3300 on a stroker right? That would have been sweet, but thats like a damn 14b except wayyyy harder on gas (and obviously way more power ;)). IMO, thats just plain too soon. To me, 3500 is ideal, a 50 trim isnt far off of that.

So yeah. Heres the new plan, please throw in your two cents if you have some to throw in. I am going to do the 2.0 rebuild (clevite bearings, new front case, 1g big rods, cheapest forged 8.5:1 pistons) and find a internally gated 50 trim. I will also get DSMlink to monitor this new engine and make sure its not going to eat itsself up. A FPR, 255, and some bigger injectors will round out the fuel mods. I need to get some guages to help make sure its running in decent shape. I am going to start part one of my ebay VS name brand IC testing with the ebay FMIC setup. Eventually, when I get a good tune and get used to the car, I will be putting in some nitrous, probably a 35 at first, then a 50, and if I am feeling lucky, a 75. A battery relocation, significant weight reduction including about half of the interior, AC, and heater core, and hopefully some racing seats and harness bars will also find their way into this car. Then I start getting ready to rip apart the Vipers when the come to town again. :)

EDIT: Also, its getting all of its mods before it goes back on the road besides the nitrous.

Ok, another little update. I found a rebuilt engine in the cities. I guess its a long block, NAPA rebuild head and stock rebuilt bottom end both with 5k miles, 2k on all new timing stuff, new head gasket, and ARP head studs and he wants $800. What do you guys think about that? Seems high to me...

Another thing, I am thinking I am going to wait on the bigger turbo, injectors, FPR and fuel pump. I forgot I gotta do the clutch. So a litghtweight flywheel (my buddy has a spare he will let me take for cheap) clutch, link, and rebuild are getting done before she hits the roads. Then injectors, pump, and FPR will come as funds become available. Then I will snatch up a 50 trim when I find one.