Power window motor

Just finished replacing the driver side power window motor in my wifes astro,
not to bad at all, motor was $50, took all of about 1.5 hrs, since I have never done one of these before.
Only advice I have really is there is no way to get to the back of the regulator/mounting bracket to put nuts on the supplied screws, so have a rivet gun and rivets handy before you start, rivets are the only way to go unless you remove the whole regulator.
I did notice that the lube had dried to flaky material, so I re'lubed "everything" with good grease to help the motor not strain.
One thing I didn't understand was I pulled the plug in end of the motor off and saw no reason for it's poor operation the brushes were in fair shape, and the armature was not burned, I think i'm going to pull the rest of it apart to see whats up.
To anyone needing to do this job, it's not too intense of a job, or expensive so just jump in.

well the reason the motors stop is the over heat plate in the plastic brush housing gets old and weathered just solder the brass plates together or run a wire across the gap of the leads to bypass but this a rig way just buy a new one . also do not use rivets or the small screws to attach the motor use 1/2 or 3/8 long sheet metal screws alittle bigger then the holes with hex head and a mag. nut driver on a drill .
a.m.p. window repair.

Sheet metal screws can allow the motor to work loose. I've never had a known problem with steel (not aluminum) peel rivets.

i own a power window repair company (i fix only power window) and have been installing/rebuilding motors for 8 years i have never had a call back on a camaro or astro van, but i have redone sooo many shade tree repair jobs that use rivets and the small screws that come with the motor. the rivets hold for about six months then loose and wear the regulator gear when you go to drill them out they spin the sheet metal screws are the best . trust me , i do more then anyone out there . you wont be in business for long going back and back doing things over .

I've got 20 year old regulator motors in a couple P-cars and an F-body. They're rattle-free, and were factory installed with peel rivets. I agree that plain old "pop" rivets are a mistake, which is which is why the factory doesn't use them either.

Since you're in the busines, you might be interested in this:

Power Window Motor Repair (http://72.19.213.157/files/PowerWindowMotor.pdf)

well i think i know what your talking about, but if you read the first post i was answerings the question about riveting the motor to the regulator .not the regulator to the door panel with large 1/4 " peel rivets. i dont remove the large rivets from the regulator only the 4 small motor rivets holding it the reg. then replace them with screws . i have a $900 12volt rivet gun with a special tip to replace those peel rivets they need to be crimped on the head to make sure the steal middle stud doesnt fall out . does that make sense ?