05 caravan remote programming

Anyone know if it is possible to program a combination key/6 button remote for a 2005/6 caravan if the key is already cut? My van only had one master key/6 button remote with it when purchased (used). I was planning to get a couple of the blank transponder keys from ebay and I know I will have to get one of them programmed at the dealer, but then I will have 2 of my own and hopefully will be able to program the second transponder key (that doesn't have remote on it.)

There are a number of these remote/key combos available on ebay where the key has already been cut. I was hoping to get one of them and be able to just cut off the key blade and use the remote part as a remote (if you've seen these combo key/remotes, they are gigantic and I think a regular transponder key and a keyfob remote would fit in my pocket just as well, plus it would save a lot of $ if this works).

I imagine the pre-cut remote/key will slide into my ignition cylinder, but I expect that it wouldn't be able to turn due to having the wrong cut on it. Does anyone know if the remote parts can be programmed without having to turn the key (even if it means having a locksmith do it?)

Dealer is playing stupid, saying the only way they would know if it would work is to have the VIN number from the other vehicle (not available as I imagine these were either goof up key cuts or from junked vans).

Does anyone know if all 3 of the numbers on the back of the remote have to match exactly (there's an IC number, Part No., and FCC ID number). I've read elsewhere on this forum that the FCC ID is the only really critical match, but the dealer was trying to say something about both vehicles having to have had the SKIM (Sentry Key Immobilizer system) for them to be swappable. He acted like there would have been 2005s without this, but from what I can tell, everyone who bought a 2005 got this wonderfully expensive bit of technology whether they wanted it or not.

It's great that the car thieves can't take my car. Too bad that if I lose my key, I can't take it either. Newer vehicles cost a lot to have this technology force fed to you.

Thanks for any help!

I have a 2005 GC. The number that needs to match is the FCC ID. If that matches and the remote looks the same, it will work. Your comments about having a separate FOB and Transponder key won't work. The FOB/Transponder are one in the same on this car.

I purchased some pre-cut keys from Ebay. You need to be able to turn them in the ignition to get them programmed, so you can't just do what you are thinking of. Here are two options.

Option 1, use as keyless entry only
1. Cut the pre-cut key off of the FOB using a hacksaw
2. Go to Walmart ($0.99) or a locksmith and have a cheapo non-transponder duplicate made of your original key. This will open the door but only start the car for 3 seconds and then it will die.
3. Follow the programming instructions in the manual until it is time to insert the new key and turn it to program it. At that point, use the Walmart key but hold the FOB from Ebay at the end of the key and as close to the lock as possible. If done correctly, the Walmart key will turn the ignition and the FOB will get programmed and can then be used as a keyless entry. The FOB and key are separate things, but the FOB has to be very close to the lock cylinder or the signal it emits will not be picked up. Doing this basically looks to your car just like a normal key. If you pop open the plastic housing, you'll see that the transponder can be removed and will understand how this all works.

Option 2, use as a fully-functional key
1. Do everything the same as option 1, but when you hacksaw off the precut key blade, leave about 1/2 an inch behind
2. Get an extra key cut at Walmart. Cut off the key blade from it also, but do it so that when you line it up with the key FOB stub, there is overlap. The total key length needs to be the same as the original key, make sense?
3. Drill a hole through the stub on the key FOB and the cut Walmart key.
4. Get a pack very small machine screw and nuts (#4-40 x 3/8") at home depot ($0.88 for a 10 pack). They are in a green plastic bag hanging on the wall.
5. Get some epoxy or JB weld at Home Depot or Walmart ($2-$4)
6. Use the screws to secure the two key pieces together, and put the epoxy between the parts to secure it down well.
7. Program this new key using the instructions in your manual. If there is a fit issue, use a file to fix whatever it is. If the key won't insert fully into the lock, it is possible that the stub on the FOB was too long. Again, use a file to file it down.
8. Anyone with basic handyman skills can do this. You don't have to have the epoxy, but without it the two pieces will want to rotate and may loosen up. I just isn't as polished of a final result. I tried this without the screw, but could not find an epoxy or JB Weld that would hold the pieces together. It looked good until you tried to use it in the lock and then the pieces would separate.

Here are some photos:
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h293/jmkrontz/keys3.jpg

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h293/jmkrontz/keys2.jpg

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h293/jmkrontz/keys1.jpg

Tom--thanks for the post. I tried the steps you outlined in option 1. Does it matter that my first key used was the one good 6 button key/remote that was the van's original and the second key I used was a transponder key only (ie, didn't have the remote on it?) This second one was purchased as a blank on ebay, cut at WalMart, and programmed by the dealer (since I didn't have 2 working keys yet).

I am using this sequence, as I understand it from my manual:

1. First key in ignition--turn to "on" at least 3 but not over 15 sec. then off and remove
2. Insert second key and turn to "on" w/in 15 sec of removing the first key. Within 10 seconds a chime sounds and the dash light starts to flash. Remove key #2
3. Insert 3rd key w/in 60 sec and turn to "on"

At this point is where my experience begins to differ from what I would anticipate in the manual: It says (verbatim) "w/in 10 seconds a single chime will sound. The Theft Alarm Light will stop flashing, turn on for 3 seconds; then turn off." When I use my Valet (non-transponder) key with the ebay 6 button key touching it metal-to-metal or even with it just lying atop the steering casing (which is where I believe the vehicle electronics are located that it is trying to communicate with), the flashing light never stops and my remote is dead as a doornail when I finish (I checked the battery in the key and it tests fine)

Any other suggestions? Sounds like you got this to work just fine. Thanks for any additional help.

I just want to give my 2 cents on this, and i am not a cop or anything, but if i was a cop and saw a key like that with epoxy and a screw threw it, i would thinks its stollen. If you worked at a dealership, and had a car come in with a key like that, what would you think. I would go threw the dealer to have it done correctly, not superguled. Just my 2 cents.

VAMC, As far as what a dealer or a cop would think, I can see your point. However, this project was simply to get myself a few spare/emergency keys that did not cause 10x as much. If there was any question, they could quickly check my license and see that the car is ours.

KKORNHAUS, I did not know that they made transponder-only keys for the caravan. Interesting. I did indeed get this to work, but I guess I did hit a snag. I was able to program 1 key, for a total of 3 working on my car. I was not able to get my 4th or 5th key to program.

When trying to program keys 4/5, I encountered the same problem you are reporting (nothing happened). I ruled out the problem being the actual key/transponder, because I took a known-good transponder out of a friends key and put it into one of mine and could not get it to program either. Although the manual says the car will allow 8 keys to be programmed, it's like the limit is really 3. I had thought that maybe it was just a problem with my car, or that the dealer had filled up all my slots pre-sale for some crazy reason, and was going to take it to the dealer eventually to get them to address this. But now you are seeing the same thing, so maybe this is a standard problem with the vehicle. I'd heard with certain Dodge trucks that you can't program the key yourself although it says you can in the manual. There's a bug. You have to go to the dealer and have them take care of it.

One thing I did notice, if I use any 2 of my 3 already-programmed keys to initiate the programming process, and then I put one of those 3 already-programmed keys as the key to be programmed, it does work and chime just like the manual says. However, I could never get a 4th or 5th key to program, no matter what variation I tried.

Has anyone successfully programmed more than 3 keys onto a 2005 Grand Caravan?

Please post if there is a solution to this.

Thanks,
JMK

Thanks for the additional info. As you said, the manual claims you can have up to 8 sentry keys done this way, even though I have read others saying 4 (I think that was the person on ebay who was selling the transponder only keys--about $20 with shipping). I got somewhat different explanations (and prices) from each of 3 or 4 dealers I called---from $20 (program one key) to $37.50 (claimed they would program as many as I brought in) to $65 (to program 2 keys). This was NOT including the keys.

Anyway, my dilemma is that I only have two keys programmed and this is the 3rd one, so I'm not even as far along as you are. From your comment about not knowing transponder-only keys are out there, I assume that you have 3 remote only keys.

Is the transponder that you swapped with your friend just the circuit board that's in there when you pop the case open or did you remove a chip from the board?

Also, what did you mean about the dealer "filling up all of your slots"?

As for looking suspicious b/c of superglue/JB Weld or a nut & bolt, the ones who ought to be investigated are the manufacturers/dealers charging 1/2 the price of a desktop computer (with an operating system) for the equivalent of a garage door opener that comes with a key!

Any further leads will be appreciated. I will post if I find any other solution besides going back to the dealer.

When I swapped transponders, I did that by moving the entire circuit board between keys. You are right, your situation is different than mine. By using up all my slots, I meant maybe for some reason they had programmed a bunch of keys and left me with only 1 free slot left (of my max 8) and that this is why I could only program a single key.

Let us know if you figure it out

Now I got my second transponder-only key cut at the hardware, and it programmed without a hitch using the method in the owner's manual. I tried holding my 6 button remote next to it during the process, but no dice. I tried again, numerous times, with the 6 button's blade touching the metal of the newest transponder key, tried laying the 6 button on top of the steering column, different orientations of the 6 button against the base of the new transponder key--nothing. Each time, though, it does the sequence as per the owner's manual description, which I could not get it to do when I tried using the valet key to turn the ignition while attempting to program the 6 button.

Any other ideas? Seller of the 6 button said that he checks them with some sort of frequency reader that read 315 mHz which is what he said it should have shown.

Did you already own a set of two of the 6 button remotes when you programmed your "self made" one? I wonder if that could be the problem.

Also noted that the part number on my ebay one ends in AC instead of AB on the original one, but the FCC numbers are identical (which is what everyone says is the only thing that matters).

Tomballpkr,

I also wonder if you know for certain whether the 3rd key had ever actually been programmed before, or just cut? Don't know why someone would get rid of one that was only cut. Just wondering of a 6 button that's been pre-programmed cannot be done this way but a "new" one can?