ambient temperature sensor
Nightwatch1
07-29-2006, 10:55 PM
I have a 2003 montana an recently purchased a 2001 chevy venture overhead console with all the fixings. Haven't begun the process yet but I had a few questions before I start hacking away at my headliner. First, is it possible that I already have the wiring that goes out to where the ambient sensor is located? I can't find anything not connected near the washer tank but there is an unused connector out in front of the radiator. Next question, is this a simple plug and play operation or am I in for alot of custom wiring. I understand (i hope) that the wiring I need will be above the driver side headliner. I noticed on the replacement console (venture) that there were connectors but the seller had cut the wires about eighteen inches downstream instead of just disconnecting the connectors. Third question, Am i going to be able to connect and use the onstar feature? I've heard conflicting reports. I don't really care if I can't use it especially the monthly fee. Fourth question, what kind of a time frame am I looking at for this swap out. I'm fairly handy with a multimeter and soldering iron and typically dont get to squeemish with cutting headliners and the like. It this a two hour job or a weekend full of anquish. Now that I've said all this, I can't wait for one of you to tell me that the 2001 overhead console is not compatible with the 2003 montana. Please chose your words carefully in order to spare my sucking on the exhause pipe in disqust. I've looked at the one gentlemens (dont have the name handy) on how he swapped out the console and did learn a few things there. One last point and I will shut up. Am I the only one who has a hell of a time explaining to the wife about how this fantastic new console will change our lives forever. She just dosent seem so exited about how hot it is outside or which direction she might be headed. :screwy:
Thanks,
Nightwatch
PS. If anyone wants a picture of the connector near the radiator let me know.
Which reminds me of one more thing. What are these large disconnected connectors that I have discovered under the passenger seat. Are they for the side airbags or what.
Thanks,
Nightwatch
PS. If anyone wants a picture of the connector near the radiator let me know.
Which reminds me of one more thing. What are these large disconnected connectors that I have discovered under the passenger seat. Are they for the side airbags or what.
Jack Bobaganoosh
07-30-2006, 11:03 AM
I have been looking at that same mod, and from what I understand, it is pretty much a plug and play operation. In todays cars, it is cheaper to just wire all the vehicles the same, rather than put in wires in some, and leave them out in others. This is why you have the 2 pin connector in front of the radiator for the ambient sensor, and the wires under the seats are for side airbags, seat heaters, and the motors for power seats.
As for Onstar, I dunno about that.....but I wouldn't think that it would be affected.
As for the wife.....mine is the same way. They just don't understand that simple things make us happy.
As for Onstar, I dunno about that.....but I wouldn't think that it would be affected.
As for the wife.....mine is the same way. They just don't understand that simple things make us happy.
GregA
07-30-2006, 04:43 PM
Maybe you were reading about my "upgrade" here (http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/replace-overhead-console.html), when I got a new console and later put in the temperature sensor (http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/install-outside-temperature-sensor.html).
As for 2001 & 2003 consoles being compatible - I put a 2003 console in my 2001 van, so you should be fine there.
All the wiring should be there. Its just a matter of finding it above the headliner. It could be on either side (or so I have heard).
As for the OnStar system - there needs to be a "box" somewhere behind the dashboard for that to work. All the overhead console really has for OnStar is a few switches and the microphone.
For you wife: one other thing that I noticed when I put the console in with the DIC - I can now push a button and see my mileage in either Miles or Kilometers! Quite impressive! :smokin:
As for 2001 & 2003 consoles being compatible - I put a 2003 console in my 2001 van, so you should be fine there.
All the wiring should be there. Its just a matter of finding it above the headliner. It could be on either side (or so I have heard).
As for the OnStar system - there needs to be a "box" somewhere behind the dashboard for that to work. All the overhead console really has for OnStar is a few switches and the microphone.
For you wife: one other thing that I noticed when I put the console in with the DIC - I can now push a button and see my mileage in either Miles or Kilometers! Quite impressive! :smokin:
Nightwatch1
07-30-2006, 05:09 PM
THanks for the advice. Let me try and get a little clarification on a few things. On the new console, where the reseller cut the wires rather than disconnect them from the connectors, I can assume I have the appropriate connectors for the "plug and play"? Also, you worry me a bit when you say the connectors under the seats "could" be for the side airbags. My van is equipped with them and I would hate for them to not be plugged in. Most likely (hopefully) its for power seats or something else I currently do not have. Any easy way to check this out?
Thanks again, you guys rock!
Mike (Nightwatch)
One more thing (you'll notice this about me) At what point (or should I be already) start worrying about the gasket problems on this fine peice of engineering. Van has just over 34000 on it now.
Thanks again, you guys rock!
Mike (Nightwatch)
One more thing (you'll notice this about me) At what point (or should I be already) start worrying about the gasket problems on this fine peice of engineering. Van has just over 34000 on it now.
Nightwatch1
07-30-2006, 08:01 PM
Well, projects done. Everything works as advertised however i still need to get the ambient sensor and calibrate the compass a little bit. (It seems to favor southeast) Maybe because I am in Florida. :grinyes: Wiring was all located above the passenger headliner this time. all connectors intact. Only thing I couldnt find was the onstar connector that I wasn't going to use anyway. Console dosent seem to fit quite as tight as the old one. The "backing plate" i guess i will call it does not really attach anywhere to the van, it seems that wedging the headliner between the console and console backing plate is all that holds the thing up there. not really noticible though. Was a little nerve racking cutting up the headliner. Kept going about a 1/2 to a 1/4 inch at a time and it took me forever. As a fairly novice tinkerer I would recommend this project to just about anyone. It was pretty straightforward and its always nice that the wires are color coordinated.
Now just trying to think of something clever to do with that on star button. :evillol:
Thanks for the help guys.
Nightwatch
Now just trying to think of something clever to do with that on star button. :evillol:
Thanks for the help guys.
Nightwatch
Nightwatch1
07-30-2006, 08:17 PM
GregA,
Your site is the one I used when researching the project. Now that Im done and have read your site again I have a couple of concerns. My original console was much smaller than the new one and have no recollection of removing any screws at the back of the unit. (did hear a few snapping noises though and was hoping they were just retaining clips. This might explain why my new console seems looser than the old one. Its not that it flops around, its just like when you push a button for lets say the rear windows, there is a bit of give to the console. On reassembly I looked for some mounting screw holes and only found one in the rear that connected to the console backing plate. Didn't see anything to connect to the roof. Did I screw up and if so should I worry about it? My new console has the homelink. does this use the same connector as onstar that I never found. I would like to use the homelink for the garage door if possible. If they are the same connector, do you recall finding this harness in a different location? I reached as far as I could over both headliners and didn't locate anything.
Thanks again,
Nightwatch
Your site is the one I used when researching the project. Now that Im done and have read your site again I have a couple of concerns. My original console was much smaller than the new one and have no recollection of removing any screws at the back of the unit. (did hear a few snapping noises though and was hoping they were just retaining clips. This might explain why my new console seems looser than the old one. Its not that it flops around, its just like when you push a button for lets say the rear windows, there is a bit of give to the console. On reassembly I looked for some mounting screw holes and only found one in the rear that connected to the console backing plate. Didn't see anything to connect to the roof. Did I screw up and if so should I worry about it? My new console has the homelink. does this use the same connector as onstar that I never found. I would like to use the homelink for the garage door if possible. If they are the same connector, do you recall finding this harness in a different location? I reached as far as I could over both headliners and didn't locate anything.
Thanks again,
Nightwatch
Jack Bobaganoosh
07-30-2006, 08:42 PM
One more thing (you'll notice this about me) At what point (or should I be already) start worrying about the gasket problems on this fine peice of engineering. Van has just over 34000 on it now.
Read my post about Evans coolant in the Class Action Post.....order it, change out your old stuff, and put on a 7# cap, and you will be good to go.
Read my post about Evans coolant in the Class Action Post.....order it, change out your old stuff, and put on a 7# cap, and you will be good to go.
1Bradymichael
07-30-2006, 11:34 PM
Read my post about Evans coolant in the Class Action Post.....order it, change out your old stuff, and put on a 7# cap, and you will be good to go.
Nothing against Evans products, as I have a friend that swears by it.
However, if you have a gasket that is destined to fail it will in time no matter what you use for a cooling medium. You might buy some time, but there is no cure in a can for a poorly designed OEM gasket. People can rant and rave all they want about Dexcool and lawsuits, but the fact remains it is one of the better coolants out there. Just got a bad rap from the gasket issues.
Another problem is that engines are designed to run the best at a certain temp,and by lowering that too dramatically you can actually hurt the economy. A problem that I have heard from a few mechanics is that with the lower temps and pressures you gain, a lot of vehicles with rear heat suffer noticably, especially in the northern states by us. The coolant is cooled off too much by the time it reaches the rear coils.
I would be temped to use it if I lived farther south though where the heater is not needed as often.
Nothing against Evans products, as I have a friend that swears by it.
However, if you have a gasket that is destined to fail it will in time no matter what you use for a cooling medium. You might buy some time, but there is no cure in a can for a poorly designed OEM gasket. People can rant and rave all they want about Dexcool and lawsuits, but the fact remains it is one of the better coolants out there. Just got a bad rap from the gasket issues.
Another problem is that engines are designed to run the best at a certain temp,and by lowering that too dramatically you can actually hurt the economy. A problem that I have heard from a few mechanics is that with the lower temps and pressures you gain, a lot of vehicles with rear heat suffer noticably, especially in the northern states by us. The coolant is cooled off too much by the time it reaches the rear coils.
I would be temped to use it if I lived farther south though where the heater is not needed as often.
Jack Bobaganoosh
07-31-2006, 06:59 PM
Nothing against Evans products, as I have a friend that swears by it.
However, if you have a gasket that is destined to fail it will in time no matter what you use for a cooling medium. You might buy some time, but there is no cure in a can for a poorly designed OEM gasket. People can rant and rave all they want about Dexcool and lawsuits, but the fact remains it is one of the better coolants out there. Just got a bad rap from the gasket issues.
Another problem is that engines are designed to run the best at a certain temp,and by lowering that too dramatically you can actually hurt the economy. A problem that I have heard from a few mechanics is that with the lower temps and pressures you gain, a lot of vehicles with rear heat suffer noticably, especially in the northern states by us. The coolant is cooled off too much by the time it reaches the rear coils.
I would be temped to use it if I lived farther south though where the heater is not needed as often.
My reasoning is that using Evans allows you to use the 7# cap, which lowers stress on all cooling system components and things that they are in contact with.
As far as lowering temperature, that is more of a function of the synthetic oil reducing friction. The van ran at normal temps when I first bought it, but lowered when I put in Mobil 1. Evans actually gives you better economy by promoting more complete combustion due to eliminating hot spots in the combustion chamber.
I don't know about how it works up north, but I see your point there. The coldest I have seen it here in OK is around 0, and it did take a little longer to get warm, but still got warm enough to keep us comfortable. The trick is to turn off the defroster at first, because this turns on the a/c, and therefore, the cooling fan.
However, if you have a gasket that is destined to fail it will in time no matter what you use for a cooling medium. You might buy some time, but there is no cure in a can for a poorly designed OEM gasket. People can rant and rave all they want about Dexcool and lawsuits, but the fact remains it is one of the better coolants out there. Just got a bad rap from the gasket issues.
Another problem is that engines are designed to run the best at a certain temp,and by lowering that too dramatically you can actually hurt the economy. A problem that I have heard from a few mechanics is that with the lower temps and pressures you gain, a lot of vehicles with rear heat suffer noticably, especially in the northern states by us. The coolant is cooled off too much by the time it reaches the rear coils.
I would be temped to use it if I lived farther south though where the heater is not needed as often.
My reasoning is that using Evans allows you to use the 7# cap, which lowers stress on all cooling system components and things that they are in contact with.
As far as lowering temperature, that is more of a function of the synthetic oil reducing friction. The van ran at normal temps when I first bought it, but lowered when I put in Mobil 1. Evans actually gives you better economy by promoting more complete combustion due to eliminating hot spots in the combustion chamber.
I don't know about how it works up north, but I see your point there. The coldest I have seen it here in OK is around 0, and it did take a little longer to get warm, but still got warm enough to keep us comfortable. The trick is to turn off the defroster at first, because this turns on the a/c, and therefore, the cooling fan.
1Bradymichael
07-31-2006, 10:07 PM
My reasoning is that using Evans allows you to use the 7# cap, which lowers stress on all cooling system components and things that they are in contact with.
As far as lowering temperature, that is more of a function of the synthetic oil reducing friction. The van ran at normal temps when I first bought it, but lowered when I put in Mobil 1. Evans actually gives you better economy by promoting more complete combustion due to eliminating hot spots in the combustion chamber.
I don't know about how it works up north, but I see your point there. The coldest I have seen it here in OK is around 0, and it did take a little longer to get warm, but still got warm enough to keep us comfortable. The trick is to turn off the defroster at first, because this turns on the a/c, and therefore, the cooling fan.
I made the switch to synthetic as well, and agree it does lower the temp abit.
I noticed the change after the first oil change with synthetic, and have not used anything else since. As for gas milage, it did not make a huge difference that I can tell, maybe .5 mpg.
It can get to -20 F or lower at times in the winter in IA, so I am thinking that is why not too many folks use it around here. If I lived in OK I would be inclinded to use it though.
As far as lowering temperature, that is more of a function of the synthetic oil reducing friction. The van ran at normal temps when I first bought it, but lowered when I put in Mobil 1. Evans actually gives you better economy by promoting more complete combustion due to eliminating hot spots in the combustion chamber.
I don't know about how it works up north, but I see your point there. The coldest I have seen it here in OK is around 0, and it did take a little longer to get warm, but still got warm enough to keep us comfortable. The trick is to turn off the defroster at first, because this turns on the a/c, and therefore, the cooling fan.
I made the switch to synthetic as well, and agree it does lower the temp abit.
I noticed the change after the first oil change with synthetic, and have not used anything else since. As for gas milage, it did not make a huge difference that I can tell, maybe .5 mpg.
It can get to -20 F or lower at times in the winter in IA, so I am thinking that is why not too many folks use it around here. If I lived in OK I would be inclinded to use it though.
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