Alternator HELP !

My 98 Trans Sport Extended (looks the same as a Montana) with NO rear air is having problems which I think is coming from the alternator.

I just put a new battery in it last week, I haven't driven it since then. Today I try to go and she's DEAD !? Dash/ Instrument cluster lights come on for the first try of the key then they don't even come on any further attempts to start her.

If I boost her she starts, took her for a 30km run to my buddies house shut her off and she's dead again !?

No warning lights.

I'm thinking alternator, so I call Canadian Tire they tell me for van with rear air $200CDN and with no rear air $300CDN !!!??? How can this be. This is for NEW, they said they didn't sell a rebuilt for this vehicle.

The damn thing (alternator) looks no different than the one that was in my old 79 delta 88 with 350 rocket motor. All had to do was buy a $15 rebuild kit and do it myself.

From what I gathered from the CTC clerk I talk to on the phone there is a 140 AMP for vans with rear air and a 105 AMP for without air. So far as I can tell mine only has front a/c.

So I was hoping someone could help me figuring out what alternator I need and the cheapest way to acquire one. :) Can these alternators be rebuilt ?

I plan on checking e-bay and local used-parts places tomorrow to get a idea of price (they usually charge half of retail), I want to get new or rebuilt but I might end up having no choice to buy used.


Any help is appreciated.

Cheer's

I realize being in Canada you are limited by where you can go for repairs. Look your vehicle up on rock-auto.com and search the part number. They are wrong on the price for the 105 amp alternator it is cheaper than the 140. These alternators can be rebuilt just like all the others. You may have to have a shop do it for you though but it will be cheaper than a new one. If I were you I would look at other issues with this vehicle than the alternator. I suspect that the alternator is not the problem. It sounds like you may have a corrosion problem in the wiring or the battery you put in the vehicle, even though it is new, is bad. A new battery should be able to maintain a charge for longer than 24 hours. Check for an open circuit or bad ground as well. The starter is a great place to find issues. If the alternator is not working then once you get it started it wouldn't run unless the battery was providing voltage. You can check the alternator by strarting the car and then checking voltage at the battery, if you get greater than 14 volts then the alternator is working fine. By the way recharge the battery using a charger, an alternator will not charge a battery only maintain it!

IF the battery discharges, then there is a path. DIsconnect battery and measure current with an ammeter between connector and battery with everything dead...current should be zero...well maybe 20-40 milliamps to keep the computer memory alive.
If you have a significant current (0.5A IS significant....) then remove fuses one after another to see what component takes it. To rule the alternator in or out, disconnect the heavy gauge wire from alternator to see if it makes a difference...All those tests with engine and key OFF.
Alternators RARELY discharge the battery: the diodes fail OPEN when they fail. As GTPDAD says, near 14V when engine runs means a normal charge....and it WILL charge the battery...but turn headlights ON and the blower and see if voltage goes really down: it WILL go down a little, but failed diodes will leave the alternator with reduced power amd too small a current for all accessories and this would discharge a battery it you drive the car with several accessories on...but not when car is sitting dead in the driveway.

Hey guys, thanks for the reply's.

I haven't had much time to look at it, I plan on doing that this weekend.

I did dissconnect the battery cables the other day, I put the trickle charger on it tonight and plan on trying some of your recommendations tomorrow.

Cheer's
Wayne

sounds more like a bad engine or battery ground to me. the quickest way to check for bad engine grounding is to check for voltage in the coolant. with the engine cold remove the radiator cap. start the engine, jump it if you have to and remove the cables, then with a volt meter put the positive probe into the coolant and the ground probe to a good chassis ground. the voltage should be no more than .03 volts. it's a quick check that can solve a lot of little and big electrical problems and more.

Ok after playing around with it all day, checking current draw with everything off , trickle charging the battery, removed & installed it several times I finally took it back to CTC and they checked and said it was fine showing about 13.8v charge (which is what I saw with my meter!).

I took it home and installed it again only to have it do the same thing it's been doing all day...weeK! Turn the key to start and dash/instrument lights come on... get one click from the starter and then everything goes dead !? Wait a few moments and repeat the process.

Well I'm in under the hood one more time looking at the wires, examining everything I'm starting to get frustrated and not caring as much at how much I'm manhandling the wire harness... I notice something !

Both battery terminals are moving slightly when I grasp the cable and wiggle them... In other words THERE LOOSE !

Both required 4 to 5 good quarter turns with wrench, crush down the rubber boot abit.

Everything seems to be working like a charm. 14.5v when running 13.8 when off and about 25mA of current draw with everything off, key out doors closed.

Man... I'm just glad it's over. I had people telling me it's the starter, others saying no it's the alt. and worst yet ME contemplating removing these pieces !!? A loose bolt works good for me :)

Cheer's
Wayne

why just becuase he is in Canada he is limited to where he can go for repairs?