Slot drilled rotors on street cars ?
nikita7
07-26-2006, 06:45 AM
Is there any benefit in installing the slot drilled rotors on the street car ? As far as I can tell drilled rotors can better disperse heat in extreme driving conditions(aka during real road races). So why are people installing them on regular street cars ?
slideways...
07-26-2006, 01:57 PM
rice.
all they do on the street is wear out pads faster than normal. the only use would be for daily drivers that race on weekends or something.
all they do on the street is wear out pads faster than normal. the only use would be for daily drivers that race on weekends or something.
immortal_omni
08-25-2006, 01:49 PM
they do not wear out the pads faster, whoever told you this was misleading you or just plain lying to you
the reason they are used is because they allow the gases that build up from repeated stops an escape, otherwise they gases would coat the rotors and the pads wont work as well. almost like grooves in a tire to prevent hydroplaning. now if you believe that grroves in the tire wear out the tire quicker try not slicks in the rain or snow, PLEASE, i dare you, then come and tell me, i'm sure the difference would be LIFE altering
the reason the pads seem to wear out faster is because the pads have a better bite to the rotor. that extra bite is because, its gripping straight rotors and not a combo rotor/gases
oh by the way, dlon't try slicks in the rain and especially not in the snow, trust me on this one
the reason they are used is because they allow the gases that build up from repeated stops an escape, otherwise they gases would coat the rotors and the pads wont work as well. almost like grooves in a tire to prevent hydroplaning. now if you believe that grroves in the tire wear out the tire quicker try not slicks in the rain or snow, PLEASE, i dare you, then come and tell me, i'm sure the difference would be LIFE altering
the reason the pads seem to wear out faster is because the pads have a better bite to the rotor. that extra bite is because, its gripping straight rotors and not a combo rotor/gases
oh by the way, dlon't try slicks in the rain and especially not in the snow, trust me on this one
BLU CIVIC
08-25-2006, 01:54 PM
they also cut down on brake dust...
*Beware when buying drilled and slotted rotors*
have a greater chance of buying warped or structurally compromised rotors b/c most are done aftermarket and then resold...and BREMBO never made drilled AND slotted rotors...so cautious if and when you buy
*Beware when buying drilled and slotted rotors*
have a greater chance of buying warped or structurally compromised rotors b/c most are done aftermarket and then resold...and BREMBO never made drilled AND slotted rotors...so cautious if and when you buy
Polygon
08-27-2006, 01:47 AM
they do not wear out the pads faster, whoever told you this was misleading you or just plain lying to you
the reason they are used is because they allow the gases that build up from repeated stops an escape, otherwise they gases would coat the rotors and the pads wont work as well. almost like grooves in a tire to prevent hydroplaning. now if you believe that grroves in the tire wear out the tire quicker try not slicks in the rain or snow, PLEASE, i dare you, then come and tell me, i'm sure the difference would be LIFE altering
the reason the pads seem to wear out faster is because the pads have a better bite to the rotor. that extra bite is because, its gripping straight rotors and not a combo rotor/gases
You're the one who is confused. Outgassing was a problem with older pads. There might pads made today that still exhibit this, but I assure you they are shitty pads you don't want to use anyway. Now days, crossdrilling is a marketing ploy. There is a reason you don't see crossdrilled rotors on race cars. Also, if you're going to waste your money and buy into that marketing ploy then be careful. Some cheaper options are rotors that have simply been drilled. The good ones are rotors that have been cast that way. If you want to improve braking performance you're better off just getting bigger rotors. By crossdrilling you remove material from the rotor, reducing its ability to stop effectively. This is because there is less contact patch between the pad and the rotor. Also, there is less material to absorb that heat. This will make your caliper, lines, and fluid take up the slack. This results in ballooning lines and boiling brake fluid which all cause brake fade.
However, slotting is effective and will increase the initial bite when you stab on the brakes and as a result will chew up pads faster.
the reason they are used is because they allow the gases that build up from repeated stops an escape, otherwise they gases would coat the rotors and the pads wont work as well. almost like grooves in a tire to prevent hydroplaning. now if you believe that grroves in the tire wear out the tire quicker try not slicks in the rain or snow, PLEASE, i dare you, then come and tell me, i'm sure the difference would be LIFE altering
the reason the pads seem to wear out faster is because the pads have a better bite to the rotor. that extra bite is because, its gripping straight rotors and not a combo rotor/gases
You're the one who is confused. Outgassing was a problem with older pads. There might pads made today that still exhibit this, but I assure you they are shitty pads you don't want to use anyway. Now days, crossdrilling is a marketing ploy. There is a reason you don't see crossdrilled rotors on race cars. Also, if you're going to waste your money and buy into that marketing ploy then be careful. Some cheaper options are rotors that have simply been drilled. The good ones are rotors that have been cast that way. If you want to improve braking performance you're better off just getting bigger rotors. By crossdrilling you remove material from the rotor, reducing its ability to stop effectively. This is because there is less contact patch between the pad and the rotor. Also, there is less material to absorb that heat. This will make your caliper, lines, and fluid take up the slack. This results in ballooning lines and boiling brake fluid which all cause brake fade.
However, slotting is effective and will increase the initial bite when you stab on the brakes and as a result will chew up pads faster.
immortal_omni
08-27-2006, 07:56 AM
it could be that i am confused but i use slotted/vented rotors in my cars
i know from experience that that problem has happened to me in both my 92 camaro and my 95 del sol. it was worse in my camaro, so i switched to slotted. also the pads makes a huge difference
i know from experience that that problem has happened to me in both my 92 camaro and my 95 del sol. it was worse in my camaro, so i switched to slotted. also the pads makes a huge difference
Polygon
08-27-2006, 03:17 PM
Are you sure it was outgassing? It could have been brake fade.
immortal_omni
08-27-2006, 09:49 PM
yeah, quite sure it wasn't brake fade, cuz with brake fade my pedal would go to the floor, it was not the case here
i got pressure, it just wasn't stopping, maybe it was something else and i'm misdiagnosing the problem but since switching, i've haven't had that problem
i got pressure, it just wasn't stopping, maybe it was something else and i'm misdiagnosing the problem but since switching, i've haven't had that problem
Knap
08-28-2006, 02:30 PM
Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can help to clean the face of the brake pads, helping to reduce the ‘glazing’ often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction.
Polygon
08-28-2006, 04:06 PM
Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can help to clean the face of the brake pads, helping to reduce the ‘glazing’ often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction.
Good point, I forgot about that.
Good point, I forgot about that.
slideways...
09-14-2006, 02:01 PM
they do not wear out the pads faster, whoever told you this was misleading you or just plain lying to you
the reason they are used is because they allow the gases that build up from repeated stops an escape, otherwise they gases would coat the rotors and the pads wont work as well. almost like grooves in a tire to prevent hydroplaning. now if you believe that grroves in the tire wear out the tire quicker try not slicks in the rain or snow, PLEASE, i dare you, then come and tell me, i'm sure the difference would be LIFE altering
the reason the pads seem to wear out faster is because the pads have a better bite to the rotor. that extra bite is because, its gripping straight rotors and not a combo rotor/gases
oh by the way, dlon't try slicks in the rain and especially not in the snow, trust me on this one
completely different situations. slicks wear fast because of their compound. a slick with the same exact compound as an M+S tire would be too slippery even on dry pavement, but if driven the same, would last longer. plus my other point was proven also.
the reason they are used is because they allow the gases that build up from repeated stops an escape, otherwise they gases would coat the rotors and the pads wont work as well. almost like grooves in a tire to prevent hydroplaning. now if you believe that grroves in the tire wear out the tire quicker try not slicks in the rain or snow, PLEASE, i dare you, then come and tell me, i'm sure the difference would be LIFE altering
the reason the pads seem to wear out faster is because the pads have a better bite to the rotor. that extra bite is because, its gripping straight rotors and not a combo rotor/gases
oh by the way, dlon't try slicks in the rain and especially not in the snow, trust me on this one
completely different situations. slicks wear fast because of their compound. a slick with the same exact compound as an M+S tire would be too slippery even on dry pavement, but if driven the same, would last longer. plus my other point was proven also.
SaabJohan
11-20-2006, 07:01 PM
If you want to improve braking performance you're better off just getting bigger rotors.
In most cases the stock brakes are very good, or at least the can be with some modifications.
The biggest downside with the stock brakes on most cars is the lack of cooling. Add brake cooling intakes on the car, provide these with "hoses" that feed the air to the center of the disc. Then replace the stock brake fluid with a fluid with a high wet and dry boiling point. Replace the pads with suitable "performance" or racing pads (higher coefficient of friction at higher temperatures). Then most heat problems should be gone. The rotors can be painted on the side with temperature indicating paint, that makes it simpler to pick out the correct typ of pad and size on the cooling air intakes.
In most cases the stock brakes can provide enough torque to lock up the wheels, so better "bite" is usually not needed.
Don't use rotors that are bigger than you need, it's just uneccesary weight.
In most cases the stock brakes are very good, or at least the can be with some modifications.
The biggest downside with the stock brakes on most cars is the lack of cooling. Add brake cooling intakes on the car, provide these with "hoses" that feed the air to the center of the disc. Then replace the stock brake fluid with a fluid with a high wet and dry boiling point. Replace the pads with suitable "performance" or racing pads (higher coefficient of friction at higher temperatures). Then most heat problems should be gone. The rotors can be painted on the side with temperature indicating paint, that makes it simpler to pick out the correct typ of pad and size on the cooling air intakes.
In most cases the stock brakes can provide enough torque to lock up the wheels, so better "bite" is usually not needed.
Don't use rotors that are bigger than you need, it's just uneccesary weight.
BLU CIVIC
11-21-2006, 06:39 AM
Don't use rotors that are bigger than you need, it's just uneccesary weight.
not if they're ceramic :)
not if they're ceramic :)
SaabJohan
11-24-2006, 04:15 PM
not if they're ceramic :)
Even though ceramic discs are lighter than iron discs using brakes which are larger than neccessary will still be like carrying around a lot of dead weight.
The advantage with ceramic brakes are their low weight (the also last longer), if you fit bigger discs than needed you will decrease their advantage.
Take a look at F1 for example (which use not ceramic but carbon/carbon composite discs and pads), they always go with a lighter disc if the track allows it. They also use air intakes for the brakes which are as small as possible.
Even though ceramic discs are lighter than iron discs using brakes which are larger than neccessary will still be like carrying around a lot of dead weight.
The advantage with ceramic brakes are their low weight (the also last longer), if you fit bigger discs than needed you will decrease their advantage.
Take a look at F1 for example (which use not ceramic but carbon/carbon composite discs and pads), they always go with a lighter disc if the track allows it. They also use air intakes for the brakes which are as small as possible.
Polygon
11-25-2006, 04:39 PM
Even though ceramic discs are lighter than iron discs using brakes which are larger than neccessary will still be like carrying around a lot of dead weight.
And unsprung weight at that. Good point!
And unsprung weight at that. Good point!
LVApex
01-12-2007, 12:07 PM
yeah, quite sure it wasn't brake fade, cuz with brake fade my pedal would go to the floor, it was not the case here
i got pressure, it just wasn't stopping, maybe it was something else and i'm misdiagnosing the problem but since switching, i've haven't had that problem
There are several types of brake fade.
1. Green fade, where the pad actually gasses out (this really only happens with new pads when you dont properly bed them)
2. Fluid fade (typically this is when the pedal drops to the floor.)
and
3. Pad fade, when you actually exceed the temp rateing of the pad.
from what it sounds like, you ran in to either #1 or #3. where as the other time you ran in to #2....
As far as Drilled And or slotted.... more or less pointless on street cars, as nither actually will help the car stop any faster (remember, your brakes dont actually stop the car they just stop the wheels). and as far as Track cars... AVOID DRILLED ROTORS ON TRACK!!! slotted can be usefull in de-galzing pads over hard use, but Blanks are your best bet in fighing off brake fade, as they have the maximum amount of Mass (for any given rotor size) to absorb and bleed off heat.
i got pressure, it just wasn't stopping, maybe it was something else and i'm misdiagnosing the problem but since switching, i've haven't had that problem
There are several types of brake fade.
1. Green fade, where the pad actually gasses out (this really only happens with new pads when you dont properly bed them)
2. Fluid fade (typically this is when the pedal drops to the floor.)
and
3. Pad fade, when you actually exceed the temp rateing of the pad.
from what it sounds like, you ran in to either #1 or #3. where as the other time you ran in to #2....
As far as Drilled And or slotted.... more or less pointless on street cars, as nither actually will help the car stop any faster (remember, your brakes dont actually stop the car they just stop the wheels). and as far as Track cars... AVOID DRILLED ROTORS ON TRACK!!! slotted can be usefull in de-galzing pads over hard use, but Blanks are your best bet in fighing off brake fade, as they have the maximum amount of Mass (for any given rotor size) to absorb and bleed off heat.
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