ATC is Blowing Hot Air

Hello People,

2000 LS MGM's ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) is blowing hot air. It is switching from FLOOR to FLR-DEF and to all other directions, but it is NOT switching from HOT to COLD.

So even if its showing 60 degrees its blowing HOT.

Two mechanics told me that this is PROBABLY caused by the duct door that does not open for COLD air.

One mechanic told me that he is PRETTY SURE this is faulty ATC itself.

What is your opinion?

Thank you in advance,
2OOOLS

Unfortunately, after re-connecting another ATC, problem exists.

Mechanic told me that this is possible brakedown of some kinda door that switches between hot or cold air.:screwy:

If you know what I am talking about your help would be highly appreciated.

In the mean time, I am slowly starting to remove my dash piece-by-piece...

TIA
2OOOLS

i think they said about broken blend door or faulty blend door motor.

so my question is what should I remove for changing blend door?

I would check ALL the vacuum hoses before doing major surgery you are suggesting. Had a similar problem on an '87 LS and it was a hose! Since you sound as if you are going in there anyway it wouldn't hurt to test them all!! MB

I would check ALL the vacuum hoses before doing major surgery you are suggesting. Had a similar problem on an '87 LS and it was a hose! Since you sound as if you are going in there anyway it wouldn't hurt to test them all!! MB

thanks miamibob,

all hoses checked. system is working. however its not switching between hot and cold :frown:

any ideas where this blend door could be?

I would suggest a good book like HELMS or something similiar that can give you close up diagrams. If you have never done this before I would not suggest the repair. Too many things to remove and too many chances to REALLY screw something up....unless you are an automotive jock.....MB

P.S. Try the library if you do not wish to buy a book. Could also try the repair sections of AUTOZONE.COM or something close!

I would suggest a good book like HELMS or something similiar that can give you close up diagrams. If you have never done this before I would not suggest the repair. Too many things to remove and too many chances to REALLY screw something up....unless you are an automotive jock.....MB

P.S. Try the library if you do not wish to buy a book. Could also try the repair sections of AUTOZONE.COM or something close!

thanks miamibob,

I am not a automotive jock. But its too late anyway. I/P is already removed...

The thing is that I looked in the Haynes book for my car yesterday (before removing Instrument Panel) at the local Autozone and to be honest was not impressed. Its $17 but it did not cover, for example, removing I/P. So I decided to skip it. Anyway i want be able to get it for few days until my I/P will be on place.

Instead I ordered CD called "2000 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS CD WORKSHOP REPAIR MANUAL" which covers a lot of stuff. For example, using its 50 step guide I removed I/P successfully, where every step comes with the picture and description to it and what to do. However, it took me anyway about 8 hours to do that.

So when I finally removed I/P I found out myself before question of what to do next? To be honest I was expecting to see some physical damage. I would just replace the part and put damn I/P back. But some things are unclear for me now.

This is what I got to see:
http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/001.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/002.jpg

My rough guess that this thingy is A/C Blend Door Actuator:
http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/003.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/004.jpg

That door (Actuator's) is hardly moving. Is it suppose to be like that?
http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/005.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/006.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/007.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/008.jpg

Is there any way to test if its (A/C Blend Door Actuator) good or bad one?
Or should I remove it along with the door and inspect for damage?

Thank you in advance,
2OOOLS

I believe those doors ONLY move (or should only BE moved) by the Actuators involved - by vacuum power or electrical (depending upon the year). By the way, those photos are EXCELLENT!! They are very detailed - maybe you could build a Site or write a short book when your work is completed. Let us all know how you make out!! MB

Ok, job is done!

Everythng is working just as it suppose to!

Here is the TIP:

If you are complaining that you have no temperature control (with or without a "clicking" sound behind the glove box area) and suspecting temperature blend door actuator you would need to do a:

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module SELF-TEST

- The EATC module SELF-TEST will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.

- The EATC module SELF-TEST will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4º-32ºC (40-90ºF) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.

- The SELF-TEST can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.

- To enter the SELF-TEST, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.

For example, in case when I had faulty A/C Blend Door Actuator I had 024 and 025 codes displayed.

- To exit the SELF-TEST and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.

- Always exit the SELF-TEST before powering the system down (system turned OFF).

When I replaced the faulty Actuator with new one I just did the SELF-TEST one more time. This time I had NO codes but all function symbols displayed at once indicating that I dont have any problem.

I also looked at the Actuator with flash light through glove box and that white tip was slowly moving as I changed temperature.

Good luck to you all,
2OOOLS

PS. Btw, if some of you (NY or NJ) have similar problem like I had and dont know how to hanlde it I will be more than glad to come to your place and help you out :2cents:

Love them computers. Does anyone know if there is an EATC Module self test for a 1998 Grand Marquis?

http://home.cogeco.ca/~reekie/98gm.jpg

Love them computers. Does anyone know if there is an EATC Module self test for a 1998 Grand Marquis?

What tester did the above screen output come from? MB

OTC Genisys

What tester did the above screen output come from? MB

OTC Genisys Good news. While warming up the motor prior to conducting the Self-Check, I was switching back and forth between settings and I could hear the gate opening and closing each time I switched settings, indicating that physically the gate and the related motor were operating. So I ran the Self-Check and it apparently reset the computer part of the system and it went back to normal operation. Hope it lasts. Love them computers. Old Sarge.

Hi there, really glad I found this site and thread. I have the same problem with the AC. Was fine yesterday morning on the way to work and when i went to lunch, boom, blowing way hotter than the outside air. of course, here in phoenix, its gonna get rough here very soon. i ran the self test and it came back with code 025 only. I haven't been able to find out what that particular code is. I took it to big o last night and the guy said he thought it was the entire ATC panel that cost 650 to replace since he had to do it on his thunderbird once. He said that I would have to order that part just to test and plug it in and see if it fixed and its not worth the chance because you can't return. He suggested I take it to the dreaded dealer instead, at least it didn't cost me anything. Anyway, if anyone can advise on that code 25 it would be appreciated. Interestingly, now it seems to be stuck in Defrost, ie, blowing up the front windshield and no matter what i press vent/max a/c buttons, I can't get it to blow air out of the vents. Weird. I am going to run self test again for the hell of it and see if that fixes it or if I get any new code. Thanks for any/all replies. Steve in Gilbert,AZ

Hey guys, an update, not quite sure what is going on here. Last I posted a few minutes ago, it was stuck blowing hot air through defr only.I ran the self test a couple more times for fun and only got 888 and all lights on. Kept doing it and hitting defrost to exit out of test. Anyway, i fired the car up and went around the block and it is blowing cool as a cucumber now. What gives? A very happy day but man, I sure wish I knew what this was about. Anyone have any idea?? Thanks, I think this site saved me alot of money.

another interesting tidbit. once my signals quit working and i went to a message board for tips. someone wrote to jiggle the hazards botton on steering column, that worked too! amazing.

DTC 25 = A/C electronic blend door actuator failure. They sell on ebay for about $20


Hi there, really glad I found this site and thread. I have the same problem with the AC. Was fine yesterday morning on the way to work and when i went to lunch, boom, blowing way hotter than the outside air. of course, here in phoenix, its gonna get rough here very soon. i ran the self test and it came back with code 025 only. I haven't been able to find out what that particular code is. I took it to big o last night and the guy said he thought it was the entire ATC panel that cost 650 to replace since he had to do it on his thunderbird once. He said that I would have to order that part just to test and plug it in and see if it fixed and its not worth the chance because you can't return. He suggested I take it to the dreaded dealer instead, at least it didn't cost me anything. Anyway, if anyone can advise on that code 25 it would be appreciated. Interestingly, now it seems to be stuck in Defrost, ie, blowing up the front windshield and no matter what i press vent/max a/c buttons, I can't get it to blow air out of the vents. Weird. I am going to run self test again for the hell of it and see if that fixes it or if I get any new code. Thanks for any/all replies. Steve in Gilbert,AZ

DTC 25 = A/C electronic blend door actuator failure. They sell on ebay for about $20

thanks for the reply. the test procedure fixed it, or did it? still confused. also, if i do end up having to buy one of those blend door actuators, are they tough to put in? Is that the one with your pics of taking whole dash out etc? man, don't think i could swing that. :)

well, so far so good. I am thinking that the blend actuator door, i think it is called, was kind of reset when i kept doing the self tests. now, like it used to, i can hear a door in the dash kind of click around when i either turn the car off or on, which is how it has been. my feeling is that for whatever reason, the door was stuck into the hear position and doing the self tests reset it because the code originally given back on the self test was 25, which is for that blend door. am curious if replacing that blend door is the procedure that requires taking out the whole dash, man, that looks tough. thx

Hi, I have a 1995 Grand Marquis LS and I have this same problem.

It's blowing heat even when the digital display shows 60º

I went to a shop and had an AC check and everything was fine. They told me that it was probably the blend door or blend door motor.

I have someone who can fix the blend door and the blend door motor, but before I go buy the parts I was a little concerned about something. I've been told that it could be a vacuum line that's leaking or broke, but I don't know if it's vacuum or electric. Does anyone happen to know if I have vacuum lines, or is it electric?

Also, I tried the self test thing, but those self test memory chips weren't made until 01/31/95 so my car doesn't have one.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

~S

excuse my sarcasm but i wouldn't say if you have it on 60 and its blowing hotter than hell that everything is fine.... man, mechanics frustrate me. i took mine to big o and the mechanic came out and said it has to be the atc panel which will run you $650 but i can't order because if thats not it, then you are stuck with the $650. his advice take to dealer. i bet they would have raped me for $800 for absolultely no reason as well. thats why these things terrify me. you can't imagine my elation when i did the self test and it somehow magically fixed it... crazy. at least feel good in that you know someone. tell me this, the parts for the fix you describe are about 20 bucks per another post. how much is labor? is it that 8 hour 50 step process described above? if so, ouch but i hear you on vacuum hoses or something. my boss suggested this too but i have no idea..

excuse my sarcasm but i wouldn't say if you have it on 60 and its blowing hotter than hell that everything is fine.... man, mechanics frustrate me. i took mine to big o and the mechanic came out and said it has to be the atc panel which will run you $650 but i can't order because if thats not it, then you are stuck with the $650. his advice take to dealer. i bet they would have raped me for $800 for absolultely no reason as well. thats why these things terrify me. you can't imagine my elation when i did the self test and it somehow magically fixed it... crazy. at least feel good in that you know someone. tell me this, the parts for the fix you describe are about 20 bucks per another post. how much is labor? is it that 8 hour 50 step process described above? if so, ouch but i hear you on vacuum hoses or something. my boss suggested this too but i have no idea..


Today I got quoted $500 for labor and that was a smaller shop. I can only imagine what it would be at a dealership or larger shop.

Basically they will have to take the entire dash off (like the pictures on page 1) Take the blend door actuator off and put it back on. Then test it to make sure it works before they put everything back together. From my understanding, there's a lot involved with taking the whole dash off.

probably a stupid question since i know nothing about this stuff except viewing those pics.... someone said you can look with a flashlight through the glove compartment and see that door actuator thing working (or not), is there anyway you can simply fix the door to be only open? sure ya wouldn't have any heat but who cares... aplogies if this is a totally stupid comment, but to save $600... in phoenix i couldn't care less about having heat but would nearly die without ac any day now....

thankfully i magically fixed my ac... crazy stuff... another funny thing, since doing those tests kind of reset my actuator door, i can hear the door shifting open or shut when i turn the car off and/or on... when it was blowing hot i heard no such noise.... i can tell thats what it is.. kinda interesting

probably a stupid question since i know nothing about this stuff except viewing those pics.... someone said you can look with a flashlight through the glove compartment and see that door actuator thing working (or not), is there anyway you can simply fix the door to be only open? sure ya wouldn't have any heat but who cares... aplogies if this is a totally stupid comment, but to save $600... in phoenix i couldn't care less about having heat but would nearly die without ac any day now....



I had a friend attempt to go through the glove box, but he didn't really know what he was looking for.

I would like to know if there is a way to manually fix it also! I could give a sh!t about having heat. I live in Texas...I NEED MY AIR!

Do you happen to know which picture actually shows this door that is not working?? I might be able to get somebody to get in there if I know what it looks like.

yeah man, prop that sucker open! (or closed, whichever) i lived in texas for 20 years so yeah, ya need it as bad as here when that humidity kicks up.... the guy that took those pics could tell you exactly how, if it were possible anyway to make it permanently open (or shut) hes your best bet i bet. someone on a different board said if you look with a flashlight and change the temp, you can see it opening or closing, wait, yours is stuck... not so easy. i bet you get an answer here though, there are helpful people on here. curious what happens..

We tried to go through the glove box and under the cup holder, but there's something metal blocking my view. The part is $66 so I'm going to pick that up tomorrow. I have 3 people who say they can do it and won't charge me much, so I just have to decide who is best for the job.

Hopefully it goes smoothly.

How long SHOULD it take to get the dash off??

I'm getting it done on the 15th, but they aren't sure how long it will take.

got it done today, took less than 2 hours, blows great!

Hi, all

Just want to let you all know from my experience about this AC blend actuator “thingy”.:grinyes:
First, be aware that there is no easy way to replace this, it is as hard as any work on a car can get. That is why shops are going to quote a charge of a thousand dollars or more for the labor on this. Yes it really does take over 8 hours of labor, NOT 2 as some I have heard claim.:nono:

The picture says it all, the whole dash has to come off (I actually got by with only pulling it back far enough to gain access to the part, but I wouldn’t recommend it.) To top it off, the 2 screws in the rear of the part are crammed so tight that the only tool you can use is a box end wrench. There is total resistance on the screws so don’t fool yourself into thinking that all you have to do is brake them loose and off they go. Such is not the case it is a royal pain. Brace yourself for some cursing worn hands, wracked knuckles and more.:banghead: (maybe I would rather pay someone else to do this…..hmmm……let them have the pain)

All this part does is to move the door vent one way or the other, or anything in between and it is done by a motor driven mechanism that senses where the door activator arm is at any point in the range of motion. Since PLASTIC gears:banghead: are used, you can count on this thing breaking down sometime later as well, so DON”T replace those rear screws!! You won’t really need them and you will make it much easier on yourself later.

I actually broke mine off after removing the front two screws, then removed the 2 rear ones, and even after having the part gone, it STILL was not an easy thing! Oh, and that strange clicking noise? That was those stupid plastic gears giving way and grind themselves out, so if you hear such a noise, be sure to know that soon you need a new one of these “thingys”

hell yeah it would be a bitch to replace that thingy. 2 hours seems fairly aggressive

yeah man, prop that sucker open! (or closed, whichever) i lived in texas for 20 years so yeah, ya need it as bad as here when that humidity kicks up.... the guy that took those pics could tell you exactly how, if it were possible anyway to make it permanently open (or shut) hes your best bet i bet. someone on a different board said if you look with a flashlight and change the temp, you can see it opening or closing, wait, yours is stuck... not so easy. i bet you get an answer here though, there are helpful people on here. curious what happens..

The part in question is the one pictured that is right on top of the plenum. It is rectangular in shape and has a white plug on the top. Once you get this thing off (and that is the trick here) you will find that on the bottom of this device is a little plastic arm that guides a metal lever. This metal lever is what moves the vent door back and forth. I suppose if all you wanted was cool air you could pull this ATC activator off and just glue the lever whatever way you wish. Of course, you still need to get at this part in order to do even that as you will not be able to move the vent door until this part is free from the door lever on the top.

Hope this helps

I'm a little confused about people saying it takes 8 hours, because my car wasn't even at the shop for 3 hours before I got a call saying it was ready.

I'm a little confused about people saying it takes 8 hours, because my car wasn't even at the shop for 3 hours before I got a call saying it was ready.

That being the case, I serously doubt that they had to replace the ATC actuator module that sits on top of the plenum. Just what work did they do that only took them 3 hours? I know from experience by doing the job myself that there is no possible way that the ATC actuator could be done that fast! Have the shop give you your old part back, they should have done that by law anyway, I will bet you it is NOT the part that I replaced.

Just how long do you suppose it would take to remove and replace the whole entire dash from this car? Ask yourself that question then you have your answer.

That being the case, I serously doubt that they had to replace the ATC actuator module that sits on top of the plenum. Just what work did they do that only took them 3 hours? I know from experience by doing the job myself that there is no possible way that the ATC actuator could be done that fast! Have the shop give you your old part back, they should have done that by law anyway, I will bet you it is NOT the part that I replaced.

Just how long do you suppose it would take to remove and replace the whole entire dash from this car? Ask yourself that question then you have your answer.it took me about 6-8 hours to remove it and about the same to put it back :2cents: and, yes, I do remember taking those pics while doing this job

That being the case, I serously doubt that they had to replace the ATC actuator module that sits on top of the plenum. Just what work did they do that only took them 3 hours? I know from experience by doing the job myself that there is no possible way that the ATC actuator could be done that fast! Have the shop give you your old part back, they should have done that by law anyway, I will bet you it is NOT the part that I replaced.

Just how long do you suppose it would take to remove and replace the whole entire dash from this car? Ask yourself that question then you have your answer.

I have my old part. They left it in a box in my backseat. As far as how long do I think it would take; I have no idea. I'm a woman, we aren't required to know these types of things. :silly: But seriously, all I know is that you have to take out a lot of stuff. I was surprised when he called me so fast. Maybe there was more than one person working on it? I don't know.

After you do a few of them, you learn shortcuts and modify tools to do the job. We replace the actuator in about an hour to an hour and a half.

After you do a few of them, you learn shortcuts and modify tools to do the job. We replace the actuator in about an hour to an hour and a half.

Then maybe shops should charge accordingly. Why should I pay for 8 hours work when you "heros" only spent and addmitted hour and a half? I don't really care what kind of tool you use, it still is a pain in the ass and someone somewhere is spreading half-truths if not flat-out lieing about what is reality.

News about this sort of thing only gets me more steamed about this situation with this part. This whole thing stinks from the start begining with the lousy dis-regard for whomever would have to work on this: by design is was not built to be easy. Second thing, and most important is the use of PLASTIC GEARS that make this part go out PREMATURELY!!:banghead:

All I can say is that I did the job myself, preventing myself by being taken in my shiesters and rip-off artists and saved myself A WHOLE BUNDLE OF MONEY!!

Even with special tools, one would have to be a MIDGET to do this sort of thing in an hour --- that is no lie.

Sorry to vent my frustrations out here, but Ford really screwed up here. My issuses are with Ford not you or anyone else. Maybe my next car will be an import, like a Prius:naughty:

I have my old part. They left it in a box in my backseat. As far as how long do I think it would take; I have no idea. I'm a woman, we aren't required to know these types of things. :silly: But seriously, all I know is that you have to take out a lot of stuff. I was surprised when he called me so fast. Maybe there was more than one person working on it? I don't know.

Sorry about that, but just what was that old part? Did it look like the picture? More important is that you didn't get charged for 8 hours, like I almost did. If this shop really did you right, then they are the ones to go back to cuz they problably will still charge you honestly and not rip you off.

Then maybe shops should charge accordingly. Why should I pay for 8 hours work when you "heros" only spent and addmitted hour and a half? I don't really care what kind of tool you use, it still is a pain in the ass and someone somewhere is spreading half-truths if not flat-out lieing about what is reality.

News about this sort of thing only gets me more steamed about this situation with this part. This whole thing stinks from the start begining with the lousy dis-regard for whomever would have to work on this: by design is was not built to be easy. Second thing, and most important is the use of PLASTIC GEARS that make this part go out PREMATURELY!!:banghead:

All I can say is that I did the job myself, preventing myself by being taken in my shiesters and rip-off artists and saved myself A WHOLE BUNDLE OF MONEY!!

Even with special tools, one would have to be a MIDGET to do this sort of thing in an hour --- that is no lie.

Sorry to vent my frustrations out here, but Ford really screwed up here. My issuses are with Ford not you or anyone else. Maybe my next car will be an import, like a Prius:naughty:totally agree here :iagree:
Its a 50 steps job just to remove it... to do it in about an hour to an hour and a half you have to be not only a midget, but a magic midget.There are some spots when you dont have an easy access and spending few minutes just on one screw (rear screws of AC Actuator) or connector (wiper motor). In most cases shops have no idea what is going on. They ask you to leave a car until they figure out whats wrong...

And my next car is already a BMW :smokin:

Sorry about that, but just what was that old part? Did it look like the picture? More important is that you didn't get charged for 8 hours, like I almost did. If this shop really did you right, then they are the ones to go back to cuz they problably will still charge you honestly and not rip you off.


it's a black box that is just screwed on with 3-4 screws and it has a hole to put a white plug. i had to go buy the part from a ford dealer and i asked for a blend door actuator.

it's a black box that is just screwed on with 3-4 screws and it has a hole to put a white plug. i had to go buy the part from a ford dealer and i asked for a blend door actuator.
Paid $67.98 for it here.

yea, it was around that. i'd have to go find my receipt to remember exactly. the part cost wasn't much compared to the labor.

yea, it was around that. i'd have to go find my receipt to remember exactly. the part cost wasn't much compared to the labor.

I got mine from the dealer, cost me roughly a hundred. Sounds like you probably did get the same part as I had to replace, and due to new information provided my way2old, maybe your shop was able to do the job in less time. I only hope that you were only charged for time the job was done in, not what "the book" says it should take. In any event, sounds like you are a lot luckier than me.

I still say that if only Ford designed the plenum differently by enabling access to the part on the bottom instead of the top of the plenum, then it would have saved on a lot of the confusion and frustrations.

By the way, if you ever need to have the heater core replaced, look forward to the same sort of issues in that the whole dash needs to be removed.

You can replace heater core by loosening all the bolts across the bottom of dash and the little ones in the defroster vents and use a rope to hold the dash up and out of the way and roll the plenum out from under the dash without complete removal. Years doing these thiongs give you shortcuts. Good luck.

I paid about 200 in labor to replace the blend door actuator and about 70 or so for the part.

You can replace heater core by loosening all the bolts across the bottom of dash and the little ones in the defroster vents and use a rope to hold the dash up and out of the way and roll the plenum out from under the dash without complete removal. Years doing these thiongs give you shortcuts. Good luck.

A lot of this sounds simple in words on a page, but in practice it is not. Nonethless I am having trouble understanding just how one would "roll the plenum out" without even that being a big job just by itself. (sure, just roll that sucker right on out. yeah, right)

Last year my brother and I worked on this car for 2 full days to replace the heater core, only to have to bust my but yet again this year to replace the ATC actuator. What you are suggesting is nice, but for me is well after the fact.

If I have to do this again next year, I will get rid of this car.

Peace out.

I suppose the difference might be the difference in experience in doing the repair. I have been in this business for over 40 years and have found ways of doing things that shortcut the book. You are right about typing this on the forum. It sounds easy, sounds simple, and might give false impressions as to the difficulity of the repair. I do not know what the other posters do for a living, but they can probably do their jobs in a lot less time than I can. If I need to read the manual to complete a task, it takes a lot more time. We have about 1400 vehicles in our fleet and I have some experience on these. Glad you did the job yourself, but please don't down grade all the technicians out there. I am here to try to help where I can. I do not have an independant shop, I have a large Government fleet I manage. So our way of doing things may be different because I can take the time I need to learn easier and faster ways than the dealers or independant shops. Thanks for reading.

I suppose the difference might be the difference in experience in doing the repair. I have been in this business for over 40 years and have found ways of doing things that shortcut the book. You are right about typing this on the forum. It sounds easy, sounds simple, and might give false impressions as to the difficulity of the repair. I do not know what the other posters do for a living, but they can probably do their jobs in a lot less time than I can. If I need to read the manual to complete a task, it takes a lot more time. We have about 1400 vehicles in our fleet and I have some experience on these. Glad you did the job yourself, but please don't down grade all the technicians out there. I am here to try to help where I can. I do not have an independant shop, I have a large Government fleet I manage. So our way of doing things may be different because I can take the time I need to learn easier and faster ways than the dealers or independant shops. Thanks for reading.

Sorry, I didn't wish to nessisarily downgrade other techs in the field, but there are shops out there that aren't as honest and knowlegeable as you for I have encountered them. I only wish that I had found this forum way earlier, I may have found and eaisier way to do what I did. The pictures provided really helped me get a better grasp as to what to do and I am most grateful for that.

I know what you mean about if someone else un-experienced was doing my job, they probably couldn't get very far without expert help. I am an electronics technician who builds microwave amplifiers, so the work I do is very complicated-looking unless you have been doing it a while, then is seems real easy.

Anyway, thanks for the information and all that you do.

Is there any way to manually force the ATC door closed in the summer and open in the winter? I don't want to pull the dash since the mileage on the car probably won't justify the time or effort. The photos and info in this part are GREAT.

Great thread. I have a 2003 GM LS. A few days ago I turned on vent, and hot air blew. It acts funny. Sometimes it blows out of the defrost. I turn on the air, and sometimes it blows out the defrost, sometimes it works correctly. I ran the diagnostic and didn't get any codes. My dealer suggested I pay $80 for them to run a diagnostic test, and that it would probably be the control panel, $650. He said they sell so many of them thay keep it in stock. I'm not sure I really trust this dealer. I'll wait and see what happens.

I have an older Mercury with the same problem. Is there a way to manually move the door to where it will move air from the ac into the passenger compartment. The ac is fine.

JG

Can you ersend your pictures. I just wnat to prop the door closed/open so it will direct the cold air into the passenger compartment. Thought I had saved your pix from before but cannot bring up.

Many thanks

thanks miamibob,

I am not a automotive jock. But its too late anyway. I/P is already removed...

The thing is that I looked in the Haynes book for my car yesterday (before removing Instrument Panel) at the local Autozone and to be honest was not impressed. Its $17 but it did not cover, for example, removing I/P. So I decided to skip it. Anyway i want be able to get it for few days until my I/P will be on place.

Instead I ordered CD called "2000 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS CD WORKSHOP REPAIR MANUAL" which covers a lot of stuff. For example, using its 50 step guide I removed I/P successfully, where every step comes with the picture and description to it and what to do. However, it took me anyway about 8 hours to do that.

So when I finally removed I/P I found out myself before question of what to do next? To be honest I was expecting to see some physical damage. I would just replace the part and put damn I/P back. But some things are unclear for me now.

This is what I got to see:
http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/001.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/002.jpg

My rough guess that this thingy is A/C Blend Door Actuator:
http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/003.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/004.jpg

That door (Actuator's) is hardly moving. Is it suppose to be like that?
http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/005.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/006.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/007.jpg

http://www.cyberforma.com/tutorials/auto/atc/600x600/008.jpg

Is there any way to test if its (A/C Blend Door Actuator) good or bad one?
Or should I remove it along with the door and inspect for damage?

Thank you in advance,
2OOOLS

Thank you mb and 2000ls for the great questions and comments about the atc blowing only hot air and how to fix it. You guys are the best. God bless

:runaround:ran self test and got 024 025 052. i know what 025 and 024 is but not 052 any help out there, please?

Hi!

I believe a Code 052 is a Sunload Sensor Intermittent Short. That is the sensor on the right side of the Dash Board (Passenger Side). You'll see the "hole" and the sensor is just below it. Check the wiring to it or replace the sensor. Let us know if this is helpful!! MB

Hi!

I believe a Code 052 is a Sunload Sensor Intermittent Short. That is the sensor on the right side of the Dash Board (Passenger Side). You'll see the "hole" and the sensor is just below it. Check the wiring to it or replace the sensor. Let us know if this is helpful!! MB


Thank you again MB. i'll do that.:)

HEY MIAMIBOB OR 2000LS WHERE CAN I FIND "2000 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS CD WORKSHOP REPAIR MANUAL"? I AM NOT HAVING ANY FORTUNE FINDING IT. CAN YOU HELP ME OUT?:runaround:

I would try to find the FACTORY manual as opposed to an aftermarket one. The Factory ones always seem to be more detailed and helpful. There are publishing companies that sell them but they are not cheep. A great source would be EBAY. Try to get a new one or "gently" used one and you will be all set. Not sure if there are any there for sale as I have not done a search but I would bet you'll find one!! Let us know......MB

I would try to find the FACTORY manual as opposed to an aftermarket one. The Factory ones always seem to be more detailed and helpful. There are publishing companies that sell them but they are not cheep. A great source would be EBAY. Try to get a new one or "gently" used one and you will be all set. Not sure if there are any there for sale as I have not done a search but I would bet you'll find one!! Let us know......MB
Hello again friend. I found the cd manual at "repair manualworld.com" they honestly have every manual imagineable. just scroll down till you find your year, make, and model.:tongue::2cents: