noob with questions

So yeah. M-kay - I bought a truck. 1992 4WD 'deluxe' pick up.
I'm a noob. Never had a toyota truck, nor a 4WD truck.

I want to swap out all the fluids - but I'm getting confused about what I'm supposed to use. What is ADD and how can I tell if I have it? How can I identify which transmission I have? What kind of oil do I use on the 'propeller' shafts?

High miles - 230k. It was rebuilt at 170. Would it be a bad or a good idea to use synthetic or synthetic blend oil?

Any help would be appreciated. I got online to order fluids and I'm just lost.

I'm assuming that the "ADD" you mentioned was stamped onto the dipstick when you checked it. That just means that if the fluid leven drops down to that line, to "add" more of that fluid to raise the level upto the upper line. As far as identifying the transmission, if it's an auto, use auto trans fluid (ATF). It should be able to use any dexron III or better fluid. If it's a manual, use manual trans fluid (gear oil). The propeller shafts just need grease in the u-joints. It's a good idea to switch to full synthetic fluids, but thats up to you. Standard fluids will work fine. If this doesn't clear things up, buy a repair manual for your truck. It will be your best friend for those little repairs, tune-ups, and adjustments that you don't want to pay to have done.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=504488

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=processModel&Parameters=012

The above two links should get you started. Recommend getting a Haynes or similar repair manual.

You want to inspect brakes, suspension, driveline, etc. This step may save you from some unexpected surprises.
When was the last tune-up? Check the air filter and belts. In other words start at the front bumper and work your way to the back bumper making sure everything works and is in good order.

I'm assuming that the "ADD" you mentioned was stamped onto the dipstick when you checked it...

:rofl: That's too funny.

ADD is Automatic Differential Disconnect, a vacuum operated four wheel drive system that Toyota came out with in '89. It replaces the auto or manual hubs.

Your next investment should be a FSM (Factory Service Manual), which will tell you exactly what lubricants to use and where to put them.
In addition to motor oil and tranny fluid, you should also change the gear oil in the diffs and t-case, and flush the radiator. By replacing ALL the fluids you have a known good starting point.

There is a FSM for a 1993 posted online: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/index.html

It is basically the same for yours. LOTS of good stuff there! I also HIGHLY recommend the 2nd generation forums in ... & ... for great info.

No advertisements for other autoforums websites are allowed to be posted. If you have specific links to solve a problem, those may be posted.

I'm assuming that the "ADD" you mentioned was stamped onto the dipstick when you checked it. That just means that if the fluid leven drops down to that line, to "add" more of that fluid to raise the level upto the upper line.


Wow.

@#$%& you too.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=504488

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=processModel&Parameters=012

The above two links should get you started. Recommend getting a Haynes or similar repair manual.

You want to inspect brakes, suspension, driveline, etc. This step may save you from some unexpected surprises.
When was the last tune-up? Check the air filter and belts. In other words start at the front bumper and work your way to the back bumper making sure everything works and is in good order.

Yeah, no... I'm a noob to this toyota, not frikkin automotive. I suppose Is hould have clarified that... I no to 'tune up' a newly purchased 'old' car or truck, belts, sparks, etc.... NO @#%& SHIRLOCK!

Why are you being so nasty? The repair manuals tell you what fluids are needed, when you should perform scheduled maintenance and provide a guide for doing an inspection. You're the one that is confused, not me. If you know it all, why did you bother asking? Take your anti-social behavior somewhere else.

ok, ok, sorry! but you know what I don't appreciate the rude responses. I didn't phrase myself right.... but my question was HOW DO I KNOW WHAT I HAVE ON MY TRUCK!

I don't like chilton, or haynes, they've never been very helpful - ONLY for like oil, jack points, and little things.... so I usually refer to the internet. And what I got was "with ADD, without" and I was like, "huh?" Because all the guides suggested different viscosities, 'depending'

I had realized that Redline's 75w-90 will do fine in the diffs and case, and MT-90 for the tranny. I just wanted to be sure, because I wasn't sure how sensitive the differences between drivetrains were. I'm unfamilar with these toyota trucks, and I didn't want to just 'assume' and find out later I'd made a mistake.

Although I'm stil a little confused about this "oiling the propeller shafts" - there's a little 'notice' thing about it on the visor that shows the oil nipples on the U-joints and the change frequency - but it gives no info on what kind of oil to use, or how and why.... ??

I'm sorry to snap, but with the comment about "did you see ADD on the oil stick?" - I'd sock you in the face if that were said in person - it's childish and rude.

Anyway... my question now would be.... engine oil.
I initially threw in GTX 10w-30. I figured regular organic couldn't harm. Although after talking with the previous owner I heard that he used redline oil for a while, then got lazy and just took it into toyota for 'regular' changes (though he didn't specify whether he requested organic or synthetic).
I also remember hearing how it's a bad idea to go from synth back to organic. Should I be hasteful to dump he GTX and fill er up with synth?

but the other thing that sort of contradicts the first question is... I also heard that synthetic might not be good for high mileage engines, mine having 230k... I'm more accustomed to Rotary engines. Changing the oil in my RX-7's the oil would always still be a dark golden brown. But you also can't run synthetic with rotaries, so I'm used to religiously being bias toward organic oil. But on my Honda and VW, the oil would be a pitch black running Mobil 1 blend, despite the 'low mileage.' So I'm a little stumped on that one. If I run redline and the oil is really dark, is this necissarily a bad sign? I know that obviously if the oil level drops running sythetic I should take it as a sign that I've got worn cylander walls and I'm burning..... but I dunno... haha.... any advice please? (and please, no smart more ass remarks, I've had enough - I'm trying to be serious, asking a serious question intending to hopefully get a helpful answer. The very REASON I came to this forum to ask was because the manuals didn't really answer my questions. Maybe I'm blind or stupid, but it's not 'your' place to be the judge of that. If you don't want to try and help me, don't reply to me, click the X and move on to the next thread)



Oh and another question... I used 90 weight in the diffs.... but would it be helpful or just stupid to use 140 weight?

Please specify what was rude about my response. The two links I directed you to, specify what fluids to use and where. The first link is to a factory service manual and the second link, although not as detailed provided basic maintenance information. The advice I gave you about inspecting the vehicle was not way out of line, it is what should be done so you know what you have and what to expect. You aquired a previously owned vehicle without a detailed history. No one is going to know exactly how the previous owner treated this vehicle with the exception of the previous owner. Type of lubricants you should use are to be determined by climate and driving conditions. You know how you are going to use this vehicle, so look at the charts and determine what is best for you.
Just because you have a hard time expressing yourself doesn't make it okay to take it out on me or anyone else. You asked what kind of lubricants to use, I provided links to charts to help you decide what is going to be best for you in your climate with your driving conditions.
I looked on the second link I provided to you and it said in detail what oil to use in the propeller shafts. If you are too lazy, ignorant, or illiterate to look at the link for yourself, then no one is going to be able to help you.

In other words, I found your behavior inexcusable and your defense for such behavior incomprehensible. Your apology is not accepted.

Dude, calm the hell down. I did refer to your links, and they confirmed other references. You're not the one I was implying to be childish!

Yeah, no... I'm a noob to this toyota, not frikkin automotive. I suppose Is hould have clarified that... I no to 'tune up' a newly purchased 'old' car or truck, belts, sparks, etc.... NO @#%& SHIRLOCK!

"Dude, calm the hell down. I did refer to your links, and they confirmed other references. You're not the one I was implying to be childish!"

Above are the two posts directed at me.

What did I misunderstand?

dude... whatever... no one's answering my question anymore, I'm not gonna pollute this forum with a back and forth whining contest. If this really bothers you so much go share it with your therapist.

If an administrator sees this thread - I request that you please close this thread - it's going no where.

I'd like to say something about this situation. Sky, I come here for information just like you. I have received much good info and these guys have gotten me out of trouble several times. I consider it a favor when someone takes time to help me out.

Now, if I can help from my experience, I feel I owe it to this community to offer my advise. That is why I clicked your thread. However, when you get all pissy when people here offer their time to help you out then you are the dick. You want to sock me in the mouth? I hope your truck burns. Why should anyone help you?

Boy, this thread defines the way not to act on the AF forums.

sykminded - no more