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A/C condensor


nickledimed
07-18-2006, 07:34 PM
Does anyone have the procedure for replacing the A/C condensor? My system has no pressure and the condensor was leaking until there was nothing left to leak. Im going to have the system vacated and recharged once I get the condensor in.....my manual is not very clear, I may have to wing it, if no one can help me on this.....thanks

old_master
07-18-2006, 08:01 PM
Remove: upper and lower fan shrouds, cooling fan, radiator hoses, oil cooler lines, transmission cooler lines, radiator, and the shield covering the oil filter. You may have to remove the grille; I can't remember for sure, there may be a bracket behind it. If I forgot anything, like you said, wing it. You're asking for trouble if you don't replace the accumulator and fixed orifice tube before you evacuate the system. If the system has been exposed to the atmosphere longer than an hour or so, humidity in the air will have saturated the desiccant bag in the accumulator. Once the desiccant bag is saturated, the accumulator doesn’t even make a good boat anchor, it’s too light. The fixed orifice tube replacement is $2 worth of cheap insurance, and don’t forget the correct amount of the proper oil.

nickledimed
07-18-2006, 11:05 PM
Thanks for the great advice, I will use it, its too hot to do this more than once. As for the oil, wont the place I take it to, put the right amount of oil in it?....Thanks again.

old_master
07-18-2006, 11:37 PM
If they are evacuating and charging the system for you, explain to them what you have done so they know how much to add. The condenser MAY come with oil in it. Ask the place where you buy it if it does in fact have oil in it or not. (It may say on the instructions that come with it.)

nickledimed
07-18-2006, 11:54 PM
ok, great. i shouldnt have to drain the radiator should I? Just unbolt it so i can get to the condensor. Right?

old_master
07-19-2006, 05:42 PM
Yes, you'll have to drain and remove the radiator. The reason for removing the radiator and fan shrouds are to give you room to access the connections and remove the condenser. The only reason for removing the fan is to give you more room and avoid damaging the radiator while you remove it. You could put a piece of cardboard or wood paneling in front of the fan to avoid sharp edges, but I find it easier and safer just to remove it.

nickledimed
07-20-2006, 06:07 PM
sigh ok..I just hope I dont get that air bubble in my coolant.

old_master
07-20-2006, 06:38 PM
It's just like anything else: If you don't know how to do something, it can be difficult. If you do know how, it's a piece of cake. If you need the procedure, let me know when the time comes.

LS19962DRBLAZER4X4
07-21-2006, 08:01 PM
Some Blazers have problems with A/C while others have none. I have had
almost everything replaced at least once..and still the air condtioner will
not blast out cold air like when I purchased it when it was brand new.
During very hot muggy days over 99 degree's I'm lucky to get 75-77 but
when its 80 and under its cold as ice.. I have taken it to so many service
stations and dealerships when the warranty was in service they just tell me
its charging and tell me to not worry about it. (they usual say buy a Toyota
or buy something new).. I have a 1996 S-10 2 Dr LS 4x4 with 72000 miles on it... I even had the air vents looked over and even had the heater core checked... Still the A/C on days over 89 humid will not get any colder than 75-77.. any suggestions on this board?...:banghead:

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