Man guys I am going to cry...

The whole fuckin world needs to go to hell. I am tired as shit right now, some fucker broke into my mom and dads store last night so I was up to get the phone call from the security company at 2:30, then I was up waiting for my dad to call back. I went to sleep around 4 and got up at like 10. So that licks balls.

Then this morning I was doing some checking, I dont think I will ever get to see my catback. The fucker scammed me. I told him he has until Tuesday at night to get back to me then I am going to get my money back through paypal. So that fuckin sucks.

Then I got my buddy's boost guage and boost controller today, that was pretty fuckin sweet. Turns out the reason it was running shitty is because there was a clip grounding out the 4th cylinder's plug wire so it was running on basically 3 cylinders. Got that fixed and the bitch runs great. I turned up the boost to like 15 psi and for 3 hours total she was ripping the streets apart. Right when I got the boost set, I launched it hard. Dumped it at like 5500, the RPM's went down a bit, but came back up. I hit 2nd hard then 3rd hard. Clutch was fuckin fried, we could smell it bad. So fuck, I need to get a new clutch. I still wanted to cruise and maybe fuck with one of the 20 Vipers that are in town right now. Well she progressively pulled less hard (I figured it was the clutch slipping) and the "lifter tick" got louder and louder. Once or twice it died after boosting, I didnt think much of it. I was cruising next to my friend Matt (fellow DSMer but his is broken) in Civic hatch he was looking at getting for a DD. He down shifted and started pulling, so did I. She barely got to 5000 and she was not pulling. That "lifter tick" was loud as hell. Then she died and would come right back like it did before. We stopped at a light and I yelled to Matt there wasnt anything. Well, she did start a bit and I gimped into a nearby parking lot and left her running. They get out and come over and I put her up a couple hundred RPMs. The "lifter tick" had turned into a loud ass FLAP FLAP FLAP. For everyones info, rod knock isnt a damn low pitched ping like someone said. It is a fuckin click at first, then it sounds like death. I just turned it off and parked it. We were going to tow it tonight, but we had no tow straps so we are going to do it this morning.

So heres my options: a) Build the shit out of it, b) stock rebuild, c) Mike's engine, d) park it for a year, or e) part it out. I am in the same spot as Shpyder kinda. A lot of money invested but school has got to come first and if I drop $1500 for a decent rebuild, $600 for a stock one, or $400-$600 for Mikes engine, its still that much I dont have or dont want to spend. College is going to cost a lot and its kinda on me to pay for plus I need clothes, dorm stuff, and books. As much fun as it was to cover 2 1/2 blocks and be going fuckin like 85 before I had to lock them up so I could stop, I have higher priorities right now. Options A, B, and C are out of the picture for this summer, I am going to sleep on it for a week and think. But its either going to be parked until next summer or parted out. I love this car to death and my bag of bent valves, the probably butt fucked crank and atleast one rod will stay with me forever, but right now the $1200-$1800 I could probably get for the parts sounds pretty damn good. I dont know guys.... I love this game way too much to walk away, but I gotta do what I mother fucking gotta do. I will start a fund with some of the part out money called the "Dustin needs a new Evo" fund. After college I am buying me a near new Evo, until then good bye you cold, cruel import car world.

Tis a sad moment... I shed a tear for your pain man... :(



Why the heck is everything being so crappy right now for everyone? :confused:

That is not cool man, too much time has gone into your car to be doing this shit. I would personally just do another rebuild. Sorry man.

Yeah, how many people on this board have fucked their engines these past couple weeks? Far too many I tell you what. Seems everyone that sticks around here has CW'd their shit or thrown a rod.

Well guys I need some good, sound advice. I dont know what I want to do. When it happened, I saw it as a reason to stroke it. After I came to my senses, and realized that I dont want that much power anyway, I saw it as a reason to part the bitch out. I got good deals on my parts, I could probably get almost what I've got into it. Well, now this morning I am leaning more towards rebuilding it again, not all hardcore but probably a pretty basic stock rebuild.

If I were to rebuild, I would most likely get ARP main/rod studs, Clevite 77 main/rod bearings, 1g rods/2g pistons combo, staying a 2.0, and obviously getting bored over and whatevers broken/unusable replaced. Since I am redoing everything, I think I might as well just do everything I was going to while I'm doing it, drop a SBR 50 trim in there, gutted with no more ac/cruise control, ACT 2600, bigger injectors, fuel pump, and some DSMlink. I was giving it a good, hard thinking this morning. When we were towing my car (behind a Civic hatch with a SOHC vtec, loud ass exhaust, and its seriously low enough to where a pop bottle wont fit under the bumper must have looked funny as hell) I realized I dont think I couldnt bring myself to get rid of it. Shes my baby, I've been waiting forever and a half to get it, now I cant just quit. Too much time, money, and love invested.

Also, since shes going to be parked for a good amount of time, I should do some other things that I want to do but never thought I could. Such as a RWD conversion. What do you guys think? Theres two ways I would go about it: 90* turn and some fuckin RWD tranny (6 spd?) or the more practical way of welding the center diff and just putting the plug like things in where the front driveaxles go into the tranny. The 90* turn is the way to go IMO, but that takes a fucking crap ton of money for the new tranny, probably a custom driveshaft, and I would have to buy/fabricate motor/tranny mounts and shit. Yeah, no freakin way. The other way is how Matt has his done and its the same as how Rhys Millen did that Evo for F&FTD, just taking the front wheel part out of the RWD. The way I see it is this: AWD = breakin shit. The tires dont spin (well, dont spin much :D) and so the stress is taken up elsewhere. I think an RWD would be easier on shit, still have pretty decent launches (compared to FWD anyway) and you'd also get the normal fun stuff of a RWD car like staging at the track.

What do you guys think? Should I push onward or just say fuck it and part it out? I figured if I got lucky, I could sell it, its parts, and its spares/extras for between $1200-$1800. I have got two complete top ends (manifolds included), the block and shit inside (if its still good), 2 full sets of brake systems, the turbo, EPROM, good complete drivetrain, the shell, and all the accessory shit such as the ac compressor and the alternator, I figure that could fetch $1500 pretty quick and that $1500 would be really nice going into college. But like I said, it would be hard to do, not technically but emotionally. If say your best friend had a really bad heart problem and needed a transplant, would you just say, "Oh well, look at his other body parts, they work great and I bet we could get a pretty good price for them. Lets just part him out." I didnt think so. It comes down to more money, dead dreams, and severe emotional pain having to rip it apart or less money, dreams wide awake, and time to rebuild. I need opinions on everything in this post, mainly wheter or not to part out, my parts list should I decide to rebuild, and the RWD conversion. Give me any and all of your two cents.

i feel your pain man, right now i'm kinda pissed too last week my car was running ok, now it runs like shit, my uncle and keep telling me to fix it and sell it, but i really dont want to.Everytime i look at it, i think how much money and hours of work i put on it,it's about 650 just in the suspension set up(tokicos with eibach). right now i felt like kickin my car because i cant find the damn problem. but i'm pretty sure i wont sell it.

In your case, if i was you i'd just part it out, and use the money that you get for your school, and later in life when you are making the big money, you can buy a brand evo like you want.

I never had the chance to go to school, i didnt even finish high school because i had to pay for my own rent food and stuff like that, and plus i was little afraid because english is not 1st language,so i started high school when i was 18,yes i said 18:( i tried to do good at school but it was hard, working 8 hours a day M-f and 12 hours sat and sun. right now i have an ok job (12.00/hr) but i think is nothing compared to someone who has a carrier, so my advise is focus in your education first, or you'll regret it, right now noone will accept me for the alternative learning center, they say i'm too old, so now i cant even get a ged.:(. but it's up to you man.

you know why? DSM...

In Sphyders case we are talking about $12,000 -$20,000 he can get for his car. But for you, we are talking a measely $1500. No disrespect intended...but you can raise $1500 someway, somehow. From what I have read, you waited forever to get your car and worked you ass bloody to fix her up. I say just park it and focus on school.

And you are out of your mind.... forget about owning a $25000 EVO. If you still have the cavalier, use that.

PS: Next time dont abuse the car .....so much. I know its hard. Hell, with me boosting now, its really hard not too.

Good luck.

yea you did mention and got very excited about geting the car, i woudlnt give it up just yet, you can make the money easy to do the rebuild, hell last saturday i made 1500$ in one day.... those jobs are out there you just have to find them....

:lol: Thanks absolute, I am thinking thats what I am going to do. I do have the Cavy still and I will until it dies. I am not going to buy the Evo now, it is going to come sometime probably within a year of graduating from college.

$1500 doing what?! Legal or illegal? I know there are some medical testing facilities that pay out fuckin hardcore I could do. Dont worry nothing endangering, I'm just a little bit crazy ;). I could sell myself on the streets at night...

I could sell myself on the streets at night...


OMG, that is where the money lies...I mean, I wouldnt know though.... :lol:

As for the Cavy, same here. Those little bastards just wont die. Mine is about to hit 85K and I have abused it to hell and back for the last 20K miles that I have had it. I literally floor it to every stoplight. Pull the handbrake whenever I have the chance. Try to powerbrake via handbrake. I just love to hydroplane. Always trying to master the art of reversing and then whipping it around to drive straight.....And I have had to maintain absolutely nothing; brakes are going to need to be changed soon and thats it, and ofcourse a new set of rear tires (funny how that works out, especially when your car is FWD, :lol:)

It looks like you are coming to your senses though, just park that bad boy and fix it up later on down the road.

Hey, edmund...what did you do to make that kind of $$$, seriously, I want to know, lol.

So heres my new plan. Pull the engine, take it apart and assess the damage. Sell off/store any reuseable parts. Get Mike's engine and put a new head gasket on just for good measure for sure, possible rebuild? What do you guys think? In his car, it had good crompression, right timing, spark, and fuel and for whatever reason, it wont start. I think its something other than the engine internals though so it shouldnt matter. I will rip out some of the interior, AC (doesnt work anyway), heater core, cruise control and all that shit I wont ever really need on a summer weekend car. Then I will take the tranny, weld the center differential, put cut off CV shafts in to seal up the tranny and make it RWD. Also, as long as its out, I will get a ACT 2600 and lightweight flywheel on there. Then once its all done, I put it back together, and go do donuts and practice drifting :D. What do you guys think? I will get the free shit done before school such as removal of the AC, interior, heater core, etc, engine out, get the new engine (mike will let me pay over time and hes willing to work with me on the price), and do the welded diff and CV shaft mod if its a DIY project. Then over school I should have enough to get the clutch and get the other shit. I will maybe work on it over christmas, easter, or whatever holidays I am up, then when school gets out like May 3rd I will come home, finish it up and start having fun again. Would you guys agree with me on this? You are all right, I cant get rid of it. In the grand scheme of things that $1500 aint shit and my car is too hard to get rid of. Opinions on the new plan and my method of RWD conversion are welcomed/appreciated!

Well, I'm going to try and say this as tactfully as possible, but it seems like user error has been at fault here. Both with the valve issue and the rod knock. Maybe you should backtrack and figure out what you're doing wrong, that way you don't make the same mistake again and go through all this. I would figure out what is going wrong 100% before I start working on another motor, or even rebuilding the same one.

Crunchy (and anyone else) dont worry about being tactful with me. I would rather hear it how it is you know? But I do appreciate you being nice about it :). Well, that rod knock is a gay story and its my fault its not running now. The car was advertised with lifter tick. Well, it over heated, we parked it, and trailered it home. We were pulling it into the shop and my dad listened to it, and said, "Is that a rod knocking?" I was like, "No, its just got some lifter tick." He said ok. I didnt think it was a rod knocking, I have heard it described as a low pitched ping. Definately not a ping, it was a click. Well, as I got into takeing it apart, I found that the turbo was only held on by 3 bolts and the nuts/studs on the exhaust manifold were all finger loosenable except one. Lifter tick, a loose manifold, and a missing turbo bolt can all cause a ticking noise. So I kinda half dismissed this rod knock idea for the time being. When I got it started the first time, I listened at idle and revved it up, still had the "lifter tick" but it wasnt as bad so I figured it was ok. Thats where I made my critical mistake. The first time I had the head out, I should have just pulled the whole bottom end and rebuilt it, but I didnt think that the rod was knocking. So I know why it was knocking. I know why I bent the first set of valves, I didnt have that washer on between the crank sprocket and that big 22mm nut so the sprocket walked out and the timing belt fell up in there. I dont know for sure, but I think the second two valves I bent was because I put the cams in before I put the head on so they bent on the way in, and the third timing I thought I bent valves, it was just that OEM MLS headgasket not wanting to seal after being torqued and retorqued. Arrogance and inexperience. I dont think I am going to do any rebuilding at the moment, just his good motor for my blown one. Does that make sense to anyone else?

right on, you'll never make those mistakes again.

I can't remember this far back but did I ever tell you how to tell the difference between lifter tick and rod knock? I try to post it everytime I even see either mentioned, but I can't remember that far back right now. Basically you just unplug one spark plug wire at a time. If the sound goes away, that cylinder has rod knock.

Yeah, I do remember that and we started on it in the Super 8 when she really starte to knock. The funny thing is, she doesnt make that much different of a noise at idle, you can sorta tell, but I wouldnt have thought twice about it had I not been looking for it. Well, we were going to just crack the TB open and listen. Well when we did, she was knocking hard enough so that it almost hurt out ears. We figured it needs to come out reguardless of which one is knocking. Not like I give a damn whether the rod goes out the block or not, either way I have to rebuild, but I figure the block might be a good core for someone sometime so I didnt want to push it doing the knock test. So what would you do about Mikes engine? Like I said, it holds oil, has decent compression, the timing is set right, and it wasnt knocking or anything before, not even lifter tick IIRC. I sorta want to rip it apart and rebuild it with some new bearings, ARP rod/main bolts and 2g pistons. Well that is going to cost like $400 in parts, the I shouldnt assemble it, the bottom end assembly is one thing I dont really want to fuck up so I would have plenty of machinist bills. Then on top of all that, I have to break it in, all for something thats not even broken. What do you think?

Any guidance on the welded center diff/cutoff CV axle method of RWD? I know its going to suck around corners, I had to push my dads race car with a welded diff. Then agian, she'll see road like 3 times a week max and it wont be for very much driving when it is.

Well, as fun as cars are, they aren't priority number 1 for most of us. If you have extra money then go ahead and rebuild it. It doesn't need to be built to make power. It's all going to be a budget issue.

Regarding the RWD stuff I have no clue. Why do you want it? When it comes most auto racing that we would ever do, AWD is going to be better. AutoX, drag, even road racing, AWD is better for the power levels you'll put out. If you're doing it because you like the thrill of oversteer, then you can eventally tune your suspension setup so it oversteers/snap=oversteers when you need it to.

I kinda wanted to do it for a few reasons. For one, it would be unique. I dont know of hardly any street RWD dsms and it would be fun just to say that you have one. Also, the reason my buddy Matt did it and I see where hes coming from is it would break less shit. Like he said, on the AWD launch, the tires dont really spin so the stress has to be taken else where. The tires would break loose sometimes rather than the drive train eating up all the stress. I know RWD doesnt get as good of launches but it should get pretty good ones, atleast better than FWD. And I will actually be able to stage at the track. Also, not like it really makes big difference, but I would think those axles are heavy, it would sorta be some weight reduction. Also, I cannot lie, RWD would be some fun you know? Like I put in my sig, not really seriously, but I would like to learn how to drift. A RWD DSM would be a pretty unheard of way to do it.

I PM'd Kevin about the RWD and he brought something very interesting to my attention. The rear end parts arent exactly made to be taking all the power. I dont think my 3 bolt will hold together very long on RWD especially after the 50 trim. I guess I will have to wait on the drift thing, which is ok. DSM's are kinda heavy for it, plus they dont have the best suspension systems and the turning radius is bigger than my dads 3/4 ton Dodge. A straight line car it is.

Also, I think Mikes engine will go in as is. You're right crunchy I dont have the extra $500-$600 for the rebuild it doesnt really need. I am going to start saving for the a sprung 6 puck ACT 2600, Matts lightweight flywheel, a battery relocation kit, and a FMIC that will go in before she his the streets. Man, I have a new fire for this car again. Sure it broke, but it'll be even more of an AWD terror. She was scary enough on the big 16g at 14 psi and cams (even Mike was amazed at how much faster it was than his, he was telling me to race everyone we saw on the road :D), wait until the clutch grabs hard, I have an exhaust, about 150-200lbs less weight, and some decent intercooling. Then comes the 255 and FPR (yes, changed my mind, I will want a bit more power than maxing that evoIII out) injectors, and DSMlink, all hopefully before the end of the year next year. Then the 50 trim, maybe a 50 shot, and thats about that.

hmm... So your not going to get your crap resurfaced, cryo'd, hot tanked, ported out and shit? (didn't read if you are or not) I say take your shit out of your car, and do the shit right with all new parts, you said you wont get all your shit done till what? end of next year? That is a whole lot of fucking time, do all the shit right, you have another daily driver, and you wont be driving too much in college, so why not do everything nice and slow, and right?

No, it will hopefully be back on the streets a week after I get back from college. I would just rebuild it, but that takes money. Money that I dont have a lot of and like I said before, why fix it if it isnt broken? His most recent comression test was like 135, 138,138 and 140 so the engine is in decent shape and had no ticks or knocks. Besides, the car will only be driven during the summer and not every day at that. I drive about 7k per year tops, probably like 2.5k-3k during the summer. For numbers, say I drive 3k next summer. I would do roughly half on the Cavy, half on the Talon. Now say I have that car for the next 5 years. Thats a little ~7500 miles in the next 5 years. I cannot justify spending like $600-$800 on new parts, machining, and reassembly and risking someone fucking something up for a car that in all likelyhood will not see more than 10k-12k miles. See where I am coming from? That $600 will go towards DSMlink.

I haven't been reading everything in here because I'm kinda in a hurry, but why don't you rebuild just the block Thor? Pull the motor and see what you're looking at for scars on the crankshaft and rod. If need be, I have an extra 6-bolt crank and a set of 6-bolt rods from a 6-bolt that came factory with the 16g. I can't remember quite what's different about them, but IIRC, it's something with the compression, I'll look when I get home tonight. The crankshaft would need to be turned, but then all you would need for parts is a new set of oversized bearings. The pistons have brand new rings on them and everything is in excellent shape. I bought them to put some 2g pistons on the rods, but I can sell them just the way they are if you want them. Just throwing out some more options for ya, at least to get your car running until you can get the goodies that you want. Or you could ship me the motor and I'll re-build it for you, then you'll KNOW it will run! :)

i package physical therapy equiptment... i get paid 150$ to box one up, i box 10 a day= $1,500 lol

i package physical therapy equiptment... i get paid 150$ to box one up, i box 10 a day= $1,500 lol
Let me come help you for a few days, I told you I need more money! lol

I even know how to get there too. 1500 would be a great start towards finishing the Talon like right now. lol

yea and 1500 for me wouold be great in payin off the 8,000 loan

you make 360k a year??

I haven't been reading everything in here because I'm kinda in a hurry, but why don't you rebuild just the block Thor? Pull the motor and see what you're looking at for scars on the crankshaft and rod. If need be, I have an extra 6-bolt crank and a set of 6-bolt rods from a 6-bolt that came factory with the 16g. I can't remember quite what's different about them, but IIRC, it's something with the compression, I'll look when I get home tonight. The crankshaft would need to be turned, but then all you would need for parts is a new set of oversized bearings. The pistons have brand new rings on them and everything is in excellent shape. I bought them to put some 2g pistons on the rods, but I can sell them just the way they are if you want them. Just throwing out some more options for ya, at least to get your car running until you can get the goodies that you want. Or you could ship me the motor and I'll re-build it for you, then you'll KNOW it will run! :)
Yeah, I dont blame you for not reading it all. Theres a couple page and a halfers in there ;). Thats kinda been the plan all along, to rip open the current engine and assess the damage. I think a piston was hitting the head, but I do have a spare head (that doesnt have the shit planed out of it by the way). Do you think the crank and shit would be ok? I figured it would be junk and remanned ones are $350. Mike was going to sell me that engine for like $400 so it would be way cheaper than rebuilding. But then again, it isnt running and we cannot figure out why. In the back of my mind, I was thinking about just rebuilding mine if its not too much trouble, that way I know its going to be good for a while. At the same time, I just want to get it done cheap. But what if I got Mikes engine in and it doesnt work? Man, this is fucking rediculous. I have no idea what to do. I guess I'll get ready to do it either way. What is the size on the pistons? Standard or OS and if so, by how much? For whatever reason, the middle two pistons in there are stamped with a 0.50mm next to the other numbers, I figured the engine was rebuilt and only those two got bored out. A fresh rebuild would be nice, then I know it'll last a long time if I do decide to drive it more or keep it way into the future. Maybe I will start on seeing how much a rebuild would cost. I suppose I can assemble myself, I trust myself enough. Shit, I trust myself more than I trust a legion of experienced machinists. I know a guy thats got like 7 spare 1g rods. Hmmm. How necessary are ARP rod/main studs if I am only shooting for like 375 whp? They would be nice, but they are an extra expenditure. Input would be immensly appreciated!

I strongly suggest, Thor, that you gauge how important "peace of mind" is to you at this stage in your life. I know how important it is to me, and now that I am getting rid of the DSM, I can't beleive how much stress has been lifted off my shoulders. And you know how tough school can get. Last semester, I spent practically every week going back and forth from the shop to school to my house. It was almost as if I had a family member in ICU for 4 months!!

School is no joke. I'm majoring in biochem, and it is balls out hard. I don't have the brains for it, but I make up for that with time and effort. The two things that the DSM sucks away from me. And of course, the money too, lol.

My advice to you as a college student with a modest income, is to sell, part out, or PNO your DSM. Bascially, anything that does not involve spending any more money on it.

My advice to you as a retarded DSMer would be: go for that rebuild and put that shit back on the streets!

It's all about priorities, man. Do whatever you feel most comfortable with, in terms of money and stress. And remember, you can always get back into the DSM world...like me; I'm just taking a short brake, but will be back with a bang in 2 years ;)

Fuck that. I'm a junior bio major (same classes), I work my ass off, straight 4.0 last year, and I am not about to sell my car. Why was it in the shop so much? Thor is capable of doing the work himself, that saves SO much time and money. Treat your car right, keep up with it, and it should be just fine. During the school year I run stock boost, don't boost it, and it's fine.

Keep your DSM, fix it right, and enjoy it.

Fuck that


"Fuck that"? That was my personal opinion, and if you didn't like it, tough fucking shit son. That's why it's called an opinion. Look it up.

Good to know that you are majoring in Biology. When you youre done with O-Chem, Biochem and Engineering Calculus while working 50 + hours a week, I'd like to see if you still have enough balls to remain as cocky.

:nono:

As for my spyder being in the shop so much, it was because it broke down on me a lot, with the motor crankwalking before I installed a new one. Get your head out of you ass and understand, that sometimes, "Treat your car right, keep up with it, and it should be just fine." doesnt work. And nobody's going to tell me that I didnt treat my car right.

Fuck that? That was my personal opinion, and if you didn't like it, tough fucking shit son. That's why it's called an opinion.

Good that you are majoring in Biology. When you youre done with O-Chem, Biochem and Engineering calc, I'd like to see if you still have enough balls to remain as cocky.

:nono:

Quit yer bitching, I said fuck that as in fuck the idea, it was a stupid one. Other people actually work on their cars.

Regarding school, kind of funny actually, A in both calculus's, top in class of 150 in O chem I, and 5th in 150 in Ochem II. I'm taking biochem this fall ;) Not trying to be prideful, but if you're going to call me out on it...

How much did you pay for that motor again?

I'm done being argumentative, it's not worth it, it's just hard to understand how you can complain about money, then spend thousands on a way overpriced engine, pay someone else to install it, then leave out the supporting mods so you can't even enjoy it. Then going out and buying another car while you're so low on money, and talking about modding it etc, just doesn't add up.

Regarding school, kind of funny actually, A in both calculus's, top in class of 150 in O chem I, and 5th in 150 in Ochem II. I'm taking biochem this fall ;) Not trying to be prideful, but if you're going to call me out on it...

So, what youre basically telling me is, that despite all this monumental academic success, you still don't realize that an opinion is AN OPINION? Quit yer bitchin.

How much did you pay for that motor again?

I'm done being argumentative, it's not worth it, it's just hard to understand how you can complain about money, then spend thousands on a way overpriced engine, pay someone else to install it, then leave out the supporting mods so you can't even enjoy it. Then going out and buying another car while you're so low on money, and talking about modding it etc, just doesn't add up.


What the hell does my financial situation have to do with you? I was giving Thor some personal advice. You don't like it, that's fine. An opinion is an opinion, like I said. But don't be an ass about it if it doesnt suit you, got it??

So, what youre basically telling me is, that despite all this monumental academic success, you still don't realize that an opinion is AN OPINION? Quit yer bitchin.

Did I ever say it wasn't? You had an opinion, I had an opinion about your opinion. No need to cry about it.

What the hell does my financial situation have to do with you? I was giving Thor some personal advice. You don't like it, that's fine. An opinion is an opinion, like I said. But don't be an ass about it if it doesnt suit you, got it??


You mean by saying something like this?


"Fuck that"? That was my personal opinion, and if you didn't like it, tough fucking shit son. That's why it's called an opinion. Look it up.

Good to know that you are majoring in Biology. When you youre done with O-Chem, Biochem and Engineering Calculus while working 50 + hours a week, I'd like to see if you still have enough balls to remain as cocky."

And when you post your financial situation, you will get comments about it, negative or positive, you still put the info out there.

Did I ever say it wasn't? You had an opinion, I had an opinion about your opinion. No need to cry about it.
Nice tag tit for tat. I had an opinon about your opinion about my opinion :bloated:. This could go on for a bit. Maybe we should just stick to posting opinions about the original topic, how about that?

Well I have an opinion about you having an opinion about my opinion :lol:

yeah that could go on for a while :grinyes:

Sigh. Public appology #1.

I over reacted when crunchy said "fuck that". It brought up a recent incident involving similar terminology in real life, so, I took it like a direct hit and insult, whereas I'm sure he didn't mean it that way. It took a whole page for me to realize that this was bullshit blown outta proportion. Also, the fact that I rarely use stuff like "fuck that" with other members, I expected the same treatment. So, fuck that!

Sorry about that outburst. It was good to feel 12 again nevertheless. :icon16:

it's all good, I could have reacted better as well.

way to start a thread inside a thread...

Wet noodle fight!


:grinno:

:lol: Guys, guys...

Shpyder, I am the stupid DSMer. These cars are getting harder and harder to fidn for cheap. I love these cars, I gotta do what I gotta do. A $450 rebuild isnt quite a $7000 "Stage III" SBR racing engine. ;)

I cant wait to get back to b-town and get back on this car. My buddy is getting the cleanest 20 y/o car I've ever seen. Its a 86 300zx with shiney red paint, no dents, an extra turbo engine, and a small trailer load of spare parts for $3300. And only like 100k miles. Its going to be sweet. I think we are going to stick the spare turbo 300zx engine in a 240 shell :D. I am about half drunk right now. There'll be a thread on this weekend on Sunday night.

I got alot of enjoyment out of this thread, does anybody have any grey poo-pon?