DOING UP 95 ACCORD - Power??

I am doing up my stock accord audio system.
My deck will be 4x60 watt.

I have 2 stock tweets, 2 front 6.5 speakers, and 2 6x9 rear speakers.

If i get the 2 front and 2 rear speakers with like 100RMS from audiobaun, a)do i need an amp? and if i want to add subs too, b)how many channel-amp should i get.
c)do i need a power-cap?
e)what kind of amp-kit do i buy?
f) do i need to watch out for speaker size?

g) will the speakers vibrate?

A. No, but if you want them to be louder, then yes. If you want subs then you need an amp.

B. For the speakers, a 4-channel will make things easy. Get a separate amp for the subs.

C. For speakers and a small sub, it's not necessary but it's never a bad thing to have one.

D. It's ok, I don't like the letter D either.

E. 8 guage power wires should do but if you go with large subs, 4 guage.

F. What?

G. Not if they are bolted into the holders. If you want better sound, line the holders with dynamat or any other equivalent.

Sounds good. sounds good.

I think I am going to go the following settup:
TWEETERS: AUDIOBAUN
FR SPEAKERS: AUDIOBAUN 180 WATS MAX, 90 RMS
BACK SPEAKERS: AUDIOBAUN 200 WATS MAX, 105 RMS

AMP: 4 CHANNEL AUDIOBAUN AMP
WIRING: 8 GAUGE

SUBS: AUDIOBAUN 1000 WATTS, 400 WATTS RMS

Will a 4-channel amp have what it takes to power all of this. its max power is like 1350 wats, i don't know its rms capacity?

A 4 channel amp will be enough for all the speakers but the subs will need a seperate amp. What speakers/subs in particular are you looking at? I'll see if I can find amps that suit your needs.

thanks for helping me.

TWEETERS:
audiobaun [AT57 28MM ]: Power Handling: 200 RMS Pair

FR SPEAKERS:
Dub Audio DUB265 aUDIOBAUHN:160W RMS Power Handling
320W Peak Power

REAR SPEAKERS:
AUDIOBAHN DUB269: Power Handling: 200W RMS, Peak Power: 400W

AMP: Audiobahn A6004V
1200 watts, Intake Series 4-Channel Amplifier
Power Handling RMS:
4 Ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan.
2 Ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
4 Ohms Bridged: 300 watts x 2 chan.
Peak Power: 1200 Watts approx.

a) If i need 2 amps, 1 for the sub, 1 for the speakers, can two 2-channels do?

b)i know audiobaun makes dub, but is that as good as MTX< or should i go with another brand setup all together??

c) 4-gauge?

e) power cap?

f) i'm hoping a compustar 2way900 wit batter backup plus 6000 feet signal can prevent losers from taking by desert.

thanks,

A. First off, do you understand what ohms mean and the differences between parallel and series circuits? You need to know this to know how to match amps and speakers becuase you could use a 2 channel amp for 4 speakers, depending on its load rating and the impedance of the speakers.

B. All depends on your price range.

C. Yes

D. Sure! Go with a 1 farad if you go with larger subs.

E. Sounds good. Also, bolt your amps and subs down, don't leave them easy to snatch.

I really know nothing about ohms or how they relate and so forth.

I am leaning toward the 4-channel for the speakers and a 2-channel for the sub so i can go mono on the subs.

The 2 channel i had in mind is: [Audiobahn 2 Ch Amplifier A2601T ]
4 Ohm Stereo 150 Watts X 2
2 Ohm Stereo 210 Watts X 2
4 Ohm Mono 420 Watts X 1
Peak Power: 840 Watts .

Knowing the speakers i'm going to get. would that setup work?

my subs are 2 12 audiobauns. 800 max, 400 RMS.

Read this and see if you can figure out the best matches for speakers and amps and how you would like to wire them.

Series and parallel ciruits. (http://www.members.shaw.ca/len92/series_parallelCircuits.gif)

I'm going to do my best to break this down simply...

Ohms are a measure of electrical resistance. If you think of current flowing through a wire as water flowing through a pipe, an "ohm" would be like a dam. The higher the ohm "load" (or impedance, or resistance, they all mean the same thing) is, the less current will flow. So how does it apply to a sub or a speaker? Well, here's how.

Depending on how you wire your speakers (how you configrue the positives and negatives), you can change the impedance or ohm load to control how much power the amplifier puts through the speaker.

Let's take for example a 4 ohm sub (this means it only has one voice coil, and the voice coil is literally a coil of wire that has a specific resistance, impedance, ohm load). If you connect this 4 ohm sub to an amp that puts out "200 watts RMS at 4 ohms" (which I'm sure you've heard before) this means that when the amp "sees" a 4 ohm load, it will put out 200 watts. Therefore if you have a 4 ohm sub that can handle 200 watts RMS (continuous power, as opposed to MAX power which is the power it can handle for a very short period of time, 10ms), you would want an amp that puts out 200 watts RMS at 4 ohms, or something close to it.

Now, let's say you wanted to run two 4 ohm subs off the same amp. You have two options. You can wire the subs to run at 8 ohms by wiring them in "series", or you can wire them to run at 2 ohms by wiring them in "parallel". Obviously you wouldn't want to run them at 8 ohms, because that doubles the resistance and less current will flow through each voice coil, meaning less power will go to each sub. In effect, you would be putting half as much power through twice as many subs. Your net gain here? ZIP, ZERO, NADA, NOTHING.

You would most likely want to run the subs at 2 ohms. Let's say your amp puts out 400 watts RMS at 2 ohms. When you now hook up the two subs to the amp at a 2 ohm load, the pair of subs will see 400 watts, or 200 watts per sub. This in effect will have doubled your power and it should be quite a bit louder.

So how the heck do you wire in "series" or "parallel"? Well, it's simple. In parallel all the positives are connected together and all the negatives are connected together. In series, each voice coil's positive is connected to the next voice coil's negative, and then the negative on the first voice coil and the positive on the last one are connected to the amp.

In series, impedances are added. In series, Rt = R1 + R2 + R3... where Rt is the final load (the load your amp will see) and R1, R2 and R3 are the impedances of voice coils 1, 2 and 3 respectively. Example: if you have two 4 ohm subs and you connect them in series, then Rt = 4 + 4 = 8 ohms.

In parallel it's a little different. Keeping the same variables, in parallel, 1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3...so if you have two 4 ohm subs connected in parallel then 1/Rt = 1/4+1/4 = 1/2, so Rt = 2 ohms (remember that in parallel it's not Rt you're solving for, first it's 1/Rt, then you have to solve for Rt by cross-multiplying).

You can make endless combinations of series and parallel connections to get just the ohm load you're looking for, and the R1, R2 and R3 variables can go on for as many voice coils as you have. A typical example of a series-parallel connection would be someone who has two dual voice coil subs (dual 2 ohm voice coils, meaning each sub has two 2 ohm voice coils). This person would most likely connect the voice coils on each sub in series, effectively creating two single 4 ohm "voice coils" (which are actually subs), then connect the two subs in parallel, dropping the final load back down to 2 ohms.

As for bridging, it's very, very simple. If you have a two channel amp, you can connect the two channels on the amp together to make them one channel with more power. That's all bridging is, just combining two channels into one. A typical spec you would see is:

65x4 @ 4 ohms (65 watts, 4 separate ways, at 4 ohms)
125x4 @ 2 ohms (125 watts, 4 separate ways, at 2 ohms)
200x2 @ 4 ohms bridged (200 watts, 2 separate ways, at 4 ohms)

What happened in the last part of that spec is that the two pairs of channels were combined to create two channels that put out more power at the same load. This is bridging.

In short, here's everything this post covers:

Ohms are electrical resistance, the higher your ohm load, the less power your amp will put out. The final load can be changed depending on wiring.

Series connections: impedances are added. Rt = R1 + R2 + R3...

Parallel connections: 1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3...

Bridging is combining two channels into one to create a single channel with more power.

Okay okay.

SO that means with a 4-channel amp.

I can use it as a 3-channel by bridging 2 into 1 - for the sub, and using the other 2 for the FR + Rear speaker.

In essence, 1 4-channel amp should suffice.

In essence, 1 4-channel amp should suffice.

not really, because your subs will require more power from your amp. and unless you buy a HUGE amp i don't think it will be able to supply you with enough power.

You could probably do that with one sub if you got a bigger amp, but if you want two then they should have their own. You just need to know their impedance so you can figure how to wire them to your amp. Same goes for the speakers. You could get a smaller, less expensive, 2 channel amp if you wire each pair of speakers down to 2 ohms.

In your opinion, if you were to get 2 amps from the list below to power 2 200 watt tweets, 2 6.5's. 2 6x9's, 1 400rms subs w/ 2 12", which ones would you choose:

Two Amp Choice:
1) Audiobahn A6004V
1200 watts, Intake Series 4-Channel Amplifier
Power Handling RMS:
4 Ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan.
2 Ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
4 Ohms Bridged: 300 watts x 2 chan.
Peak Power: 1200 Watts approx.

2)Audiobahn 2 Ch Amplifier A2601T
4 Ohm Stereo 150 Watts X 2
2 Ohm Stereo 210 Watts X 2
4 Ohm Mono 420 Watts X 1
Peak Power: 840 Watts

FYI:
TWEETERS:
audiobaun [AT57 28MM ]: Power Handling: 200 RMS Pair

FR SPEAKERS:
Dub Audio DUB265 aUDIOBAUHN:160W RMS Power Handling
320W Peak Power

REAR SPEAKERS:
AUDIOBAHN DUB269: Power Handling: 200W RMS, Peak Power: 400W

is there a reason you are sticking solely to Audiobahn?

I got a link with a suppier. If not, i'd have gone for MTX.

are audiobahn's not top 3?

ps - the speakers are all 4OHM

so someone you know is gonna give you a discount or somethin like that?

a lot of people on here, and other forums, will look down on Audiobahn and suggest that for the money you would spend on Audiobahn you can do much better. in the end though it is totally up to you. I was just curious why everything of yours was Audiobahn, and now i know.

My very first system featured 2 12" Audiobahn's in a fiberglass enclosure.

4 months ago, it was theiffed from my car.

I kind of feel obligated to get an the same make again. Its kind of like - u took it yaa. but watch me get it back and come back with a bang.

I know thats dumb, but the only thing i could think about when i found out it was stolen was to get the setup again, same stuff, but better. asap.

i finally got the cash together.

Question:

If a speaker is rated at 90 RMS, but the applifier output for that particular channel is liek 150 RMS, or 200, will that damage the speaker?

As per my plans, my Rear speakers can handle 200 RMS at 4 OHM, but my FR Speakers can only handle 90RMS. My seperate tweeters can handle 200RMS.

I was hoping to bridge the 4 channel into 2, have 1 for the REAR and split the other for my FR speaker and the tweeters, so its like 200 rms to the rear and 100 split to the FR speaker and the tweeters?
fyi
Is that possible?
1) Audiobahn A6004V
1200 watts, Intake Series 4-Channel Amplifier
Power Handling RMS:
4 Ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan.
2 Ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
4 Ohms Bridged: 300 watts x 2 chan.
Peak Power: 1200 Watts approx.

Considering at 4ohms the amp pushes 75rms and the speakers are 90. And you said all your speakers are 4 ohm then no they shouldnt hurt the speakers, as long as the gains and frequency ranges are set correctly and you dont clip the amp. If i were you i would look into a set of components instead of a seperate tweet and speaker, these iclude a crossover to filter out high and low frequencies from the speaker and tweeter. What kind of pricing are you talking here like whats retail and what discount are you getting, just to get an idea of what price range your at so you can get some different recomendations for stuff like the speakers and amp, cause most of there stuff unless its off ebay or from the flea market is way overpriced.

Also for the question about the cap, caps are useless in almost every setup, and there more for show than anything cause as soon as the system its the cap is drained and it must recharge to get the power back up, with most of todays music the song has so much bass close together that the cap never has a chance to recharge. As for the ones with the digital gauge that doesnt tell you anything the gauge just tells you how much power your battery has not the cap, so as this goes you are watching the power in the wire drain and come back. Instead of a cap go to the car audio forum and do a search for "the big three" . In most cases this will net the same as a 5 farad cap on 1k watts, also gives better power to the other electrical accesories. Believe me its alot cheaper than paying 50-150 for a cheap cap, or go to autozone get some 2 or 1/0 gauge cable and some ring terminals and do the big three. This thread should explain the cap and the big three http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=30367&page=2.

Why not save the headache and get a good component set and a decent two channel amp.

Ex: MY setup is CDT Audio 6.5 components with a Hifonics amp each side recieves 100w rms. Sounds great and doesnt break the bank either. This will give you much much better sound for the money than any Audiobahn.

CDT CL components: $250
Hifonics Zeus: $200