92 dodge 5.9L v8 having problems

hi my dodge v8 starts up fine but it seems to be running bad. its backfiring or misfiring when i try to dry off. it idles ok but stumbles a bit now.

i checked my spark plug wires with a tester and they are running fine. i cleaned my plugs they seem fine?

what should i check next?

this thing wont drive off. sometimes i can rev it up but most of the time it backfires and shuts off

oh yeah and the backfire doesnt go out the tail pipe
i can hear it backfire inside the car at the top of the motor

maybe my cat is pluged up

i had some1 change the spark plug wires and cap and rotor last week and since then ive had this problem

i tested the wires with an inline tester and it looks perfect

one more note: the mechanic put the wires on wrong the first time when he changed the wires

maybe thats why its backfiring now. ive also read that a valve could be stuck but he did use some AUTOLITE spark plugs and i really dont think those are great. i hear the backfire around piston 8 every time. and its not going out the tail pipes

this is just a guess, but what about the plug wire routing? check out this TSB, http://www.dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18...8-48-98-v8.htm

again this is just a guess, but it could be that the plug wire for the #8 cylinder(you said you thought it was #8) could be to close to a wire that is firing wile the #8 intake valve is open, and causing the #8 cylinder to fire early.

again, this is just a guess, just trying to help ya out.

sorry, just realized that that link doesn't work correctly. however, you should still be able to find the correct TSB on that site though.

well i did it just like this

http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-8487.htm

it wont start now it misfires on start
and if i take off the air cleaner it will put the carb on fire for a second

sorry, I just realized that you have a 92, the TSB that I was talking about is for 94 and newer.

how many miles are on it, and have you checked the timing? with a lot of miles, it's posible that the timing chain has stretched, and may have slipped a tooth.

I don't know what the timing should be, but I'd imagine if you look around on the web a little, you should be able to find out.

well this is what happened

it was running perfect and my brothers friend decided to tune it up since it had a 200k miles on it.

so he took off the cap/rotor plug wires and spark plugs

he put in some borg warner supression plug wires and some AUTOLite spark plugs with a cheap cap/rotor.

now this thing wont fire up when i put the plug wires on the way it shows the firing order should be. he hooked it up in some weird firing order and it would run in idle but would backfire out the intake and if i drive to drive it backfires and dies immediately

today i put in some bosche platinum 4's
it seems to start but wont fire run smoothe

i looked at the throttle body sensor and it looked cooked because of the backfire that lite the carb on fire for a bit

what happens if the throttle bottle sensor is cooked?

ok so would any1 have any advice

i got rid of the check engine code 37 the plug on the transmission was not plugged in lol that was it

but the engine still will not run correctly

should i go back to factory plugs aka Champions?

I got bosch 4s in my truck and it seems to run ok but a lot of people actually advise against running bosch 4s in a dodge. they soemtimes make the number 8 cylinder misfire and then foul out the plugs rather quickly. A lot of people will use autolites and have great thigns to say about them but I personally don't know. In my opinion based upon what you have said I would suggest getting a different plug like a champion or an autolite but you seemed to have problems with the autolites. from what I have seen on another forum the autolite 3923 plugs gapped at 0.030-0.040 have worked and gotten rid of pinging in an engine. I'll atatche a link that might be helpful with more info about different spark plugs.
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41339&highlight=spark+plugs+autolite

Have you tried replacing the cap and rotor again? If it was a cheap one odds are it was an aluminum POS, which don't take much to ruin, I toasted one on my 1990 Dodge that I used to have. The fix was replacing the Rotor and Cap again with good grade copper ones. I run autolite single platinums in my Dodge which is also a 1992 W-250 with the 5.9L V8 TBI.

i tryed champions today
i got no difference actually the bosche 4's seemed better but didnt run good

it seems like 1 and 8 are firing and the rest are not!
it really doesnt make sense

code 37 is back on the check engine light. something about the PTU throttle unock sensor

anyhow i checked my cap and rotor they are not copper but they are new

actually the cap looks new this rotor looks nasty

well not horrible but this rotor looks used not brand new for sure
i wonder why he didnt change the rotor

ok well i tryed a copper cap this time! same shit nothing works

does anyone know what the coil is supposed to be sending
maybe its wearing out?

Do you still have the original spark plug cables? Might want to swap out the cylinders you think are having trouble for the original cables. Also, do you have a haynes manual that you're checking the firing order to?

yes i put on the origional wires today
but i ran out of battery

i put a new coil on from Kraigen auto parts
now im gettin code 45 bad coil on a brand new coil

grrrrrrrr

weird

well when this charges i'll put back the stock coil and try again