Time for the Graveyard? (97)

I have a 97 Lumina 3.1 w/ 178k on it. Before today it ran great...but now I don't know whether to repair or just let her sleep...here are my issues..

Today about 2 minutes from my house my alternator belt shredded..it pulled off of one on the pulleys but was still running..the engine then started to heat up but I got it home before it got all the way to 260..I heard once a alternator belt shreads its time to let the car go...is this true?

I also need new brakes (im guessing all around) and an alignment...

Other than that the car has given me no major issues...what should I do? Fix the car or let her die?

Can anyone give me an estimate on how much a new alternator belt..alignment and brakes will cost? If anyone can give me a range I will greatly appreciate it... (I'm an idiot when it comes to car repair..ALL I can do is change my oil lol..)

Thanks,
Mike

Whatever you've heard was wrong...one of the accesories locked up, you just have to replace whatever one that was...probably the water pump or the air conditioning compressor, that's the most common.

All the pulleys should turn fairly easily with the belt off, except the bottom center, that's the crankshaft. Spin them all and see which locked up. Might have been the belt tensioner pulley that self destructed too...at any rate, none of it's a big deal, and except for if it's an A/C compressor, very easy and cheap to repair....

About $40 for a belt + labor ($35?)

Brakes all around from a shop maybe $250

Alignment depends where you go and if it needs any parts...maybe $65-$100

About $40 for a belt + labor ($35?)

Brakes all around from a shop maybe $250

Alignment depends where you go and if it needs any parts...maybe $65-$100


you are a beast my man..lol. I forgot to add in that when the belt shredded it was hard as HECK to turn the steering wheel...i had to use 1/2 my might just to get it home..is that factored into one of the pulleys? Thanks again my man..

you are a beast my man..lol. I forgot to add in that when the belt shredded it was hard as HECK to turn the steering wheel...i had to use 1/2 my might just to get it home..is that factored into one of the pulleys? Thanks again my man..

The belt runs the power steering pump, alternator, A/C, water pump, so yeah, all hell breaks loose when it pops...

I just saw your post about your A/C...if it stopped working suddenly recently, and now your belt broke...deductive reasoning tells me your A/C compressor may have screwed the pooch...

The belt runs the power steering pump, alternator, A/C, water pump, so yeah, all hell breaks loose when it pops...

lol hell yeah, i was like man im bout to die..thank god i wasnt on the highway..i have another couple q's if you dont mind answering...

- i recently noticed that my motor is sitting on one mount (it is leaning on the left side) is this a major issue?

- how much for a avg. lumina to get a/c recharged?

- any other services you recommend?

I just saw your post about your A/C...if it stopped working suddenly recently, and now your belt broke...deductive reasoning tells me your A/C compressor may have screwed the pooch...

lol nah, i've needed it to be recharged for sometime now..

lol hell yeah, i was like man im bout to die..thank god i wasnt on the highway..i have another couple q's if you dont mind answering...

- i recently noticed that my motor is sitting on one mount (it is leaning on the left side) is this a major issue?

- how much for a avg. lumina to get a/c recharged?

- any other services you recommend?

See my previous post about your A/C above...

Are you talking about the roll restrictors on the top that go from the motor to the radiator support, or that the motor looks sunk on one side like a lower mount is gone?

How many miles did you say it had?

I've been outta touch with what A/C service costs for so long, I'm not sure what they get for a simple recharge anymore...but if it works but just not well, you might wanna just buy a kit and do it yourself...it's pretty simple if it just needs topping off.

A service hose and single can kit of 134a is only about $30 I think...I've been blessed in that respect, two cars that have never needed A/C charging...

Once you figure out what happened to your belt, you might wanna think about it...I know it's probably going to run over $100 anyway at a shop...

See my previous post about your A/C above...

Are you talking about the roll restrictors on the top that go from the motor to the radiator support, or that the motor looks sunk on one side like a lower mount is gone?

How many miles did you say it had?


It has sub 178k..the motor is sunk in on one side someone told me it was the motor mount not being there..on the a/c..its been malfuntioning even when my belt was working but ill wait to see it the new belt helps any..

should i pick these up for my brakes? im sure i need new rotors i hear the grinding...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Lumina-Front-Rear-Cross-Drill-SLOT-BRAKE-ROTORS_W0QQitemZ320006299063QQihZ011QQcategoryZ335 64QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

It has sub 178k..the motor is sunk in on one side someone told me it was the motor mount not being there..on the a/c..its been malfuntioning even when my belt was working but ill wait to see it the new belt helps any..

This is the driver's side of the engine that's lower? Because if it's the passenger's side, it could be related to the belt problem, if there's some contact happening...anyway yes it sounds like you've got a broken lower mount...You'll have to PM Richtazz or wait 'till he sees this to find out what that will cost...I don't remember ever doing one on a Lumina or anything like it...don't know if it's difficult or not...if I guess that it's not, it will be, you know?

About the A/C...just not cooling well, or randomly not working/working fine, or what?

Oh yeah,, at that kinda mileage I'd definately look into the cost of a timing chainset and tensioner replacement...it's about due, most likely...the good news is that it could probably share labor with the motor mount, if it's the passenger's side lower mount that's bad...

Oh yeah,, at that kinda mileage I'd definately look into the cost of a timing chainset and tensioner replacement...it's about due, most likely...the good news is that it could probably share labor with the motor mount, if it's the passenger's side lower mount that's bad...


True, I'm gonna reply to your last 2 posts..

-The A/C has been blowing fine, but it blows hot air, never cold.

-I feel you on the motor mount thing, I'll PM that guy but..Can you give me a quick estimate on how much combined all these services you said cost...(sorry to be such a bother man..)

How much for all this?

-A/C
-Timing Chain/Tensioner Replacement
-Alternator Belt
-All around brakes (minus the rotors/brakepads that I'll buy myself)
-Steering Alignment

I dont need an exact amount or anything, but somewhere in the ballpark you know? I paid 1100 for the Lumina and put about 25k on it so far..

True, I'm gonna reply to your last 2 posts..

-The A/C has been blowing fine, but it blows hot air, never cold.

-I feel you on the motor mount thing, I'll PM that guy but..Can you give me a quick estimate on how much combined all these services you said cost...(sorry to be such a bother man..)

How much for all this?

-A/C
-Timing Chain/Tensioner Replacement
-Alternator Belt
-All around brakes (minus the rotors/brakepads that I'll buy myself)
-Steering Alignment

I dont need an exact amount or anything, but somewhere in the ballpark you know? I paid 1100 for the Lumina and put about 25k on it so far..

Just as a very shot in the dark estimate, I'd say you could be into it for around another $750- $1000 if you did all of it at once...that's about as close as I could guess without knowing a few specifics...but if that makes it easier to make a go/no go decision....I'm thinking that could include the mount also, but that would definately put you in the high end or more...

Wish you lived around here...I could use the money and you could save a nice chunk also...

Wish you lived around here...I could use the money and you could save a nice chunk also...

lol you and me both man..this sucks i love my lumina, maybe buy another but ill take it to the mech and see what kind of estimate he'll give me..ill hit you back to see if thats about right..one err make that 2 last question(s)..

besides the alternator belt, what else should be on my "high priority" list?

(another issue maybe?) when i start my car I hear this rattling noise..if my foot is on the brake when i start the engine, it doesnt rattle until i take my foot off the brake..i was told its just my brake gears and its nothing to worry about, my brakes have always worked great (just needed replacement from time 2 time this'll be my second time) any major issue there? the sound is hard to describe..like bones rattleing i guess lmao

lol you and me both man..this sucks i love my lumina, maybe buy another but ill take it to the mech and see what kind of estimate he'll give me..ill hit you back to see if thats about right..one err make that 2 last question(s)..

besides the alternator belt, what else should be on my "high priority" list?

(another issue maybe?) when i start my car I hear this rattling noise..if my foot is on the brake when i start the engine, it doesnt rattle until i take my foot off the brake..i was told its just my brake gears and its nothing to worry about, my brakes have always worked great (just needed replacement from time 2 time this'll be my second time) any major issue there? the sound is hard to describe..like bones rattleing i guess lmao

My ABS actuator makes the same rattle/crunchy noise that it makes during ABS actuaction when I start the car...kinda hear it as if it was in the steering column because it comes from just the other side of the firewall from the driver...is that what you hear? Try to lock up your brakes on some wet pavement and see if the sound is the same as when the ABS kick on....I'm told the ABS self-tests and cycles the acuators when you start the motor, to move the fluid in the ABS valving system, which would otherwise sit and get stagnant and might might cause the ABS system to not work when needed...since the fluid in the ABS actuation system is held seperate from the service braking portion of the hydraulic circuit until it actually activates. It seems to be more noticeable in some cars than others.

Besides the belt and whatever (if anything) else happened related to it, I think that mount problem should really be corrected, that sounds like it's probably putting the driveline in a weird angle and is probably allowing the engine more movement than normal, which is hard on everything from hoses and lines to CV axles...plus it'll ride smoother and accelerate better, broken mounts like that will generally cause shuddering and vibration on the highway, plus the motor is expending torque that should have gone to the wheels when it's rolling around under there, so you loose some of the snap when you step on the gas, and probably some fuel mileage in a small way...

I mentioned the timing components because I was thinking, if they already have the motor jacked up while doing the mount, and the belt and whatever else they might have to fix is outta the way, it's that much easier to deal with the timing case at the same time, so it might be an opportunity to blend some labor and get a break vs. having to remove the serp belt and accesories and possibly lift the motor for access when replacing it sometime in the future...It's not a given that the parts are ready to go, but I'm sure they are quite worn by now, and it seems to me that every 3.1 I remember coming in with a slipped chain and/or wrecked tensioner assembly was between 175,000-200,000 miles, so you are right there...the more precise camshaft control from the new parts will bring back some lost vitality to that motor also...I'm always surprised when I do a chainset to a motor I've been driving forever how much more responsive they seem after the work's done...

It's hard for me to say exactly if you are just throwing money down a hole with this car...without knowing it's "soul", and depending how attached you are to it...My '97 has been such a good car I feel like it's a friend or something, since new I've replaced the water pump and serp belt (and that was just because we were taking a trip, and it seemed like cheap insurance, that pump is easy to do and with 70,000 miles at the time, it was getting near time...), 1 battery, a set of spark plugs, 1 set of front brakes (I've got 125,000 miles, rear brakes are still in great shape) and a Throttle Position Sensor, and that's IT....amazing for 125K and nearly ten tears....so I can justify fixing ANYTHING that might go bad on it, considering how much it has NOT cost me all these years, you know?

Now obviously there has to be a point where everything starts to go in rapid succession, used to be a good car would hit that point at around 90-100K, then after you got through the 100,000 miles "jitters", they'd become reliable once again and go for several years without a makor failure...that seems to have been pushed back now with better quality of components and such, now it seems around 150K is where they start having their episodes and needing a lot of work...But you just never know when they get that high...at 200,000 you might go to drive off one day and the tranny just disintegrate and need a rebuild, it happens sometimes...I had a Buick LeSabre in the shop getting emissions tested once that was a great car, a good customer that took meticulous care of this car, and at 187,000 it still looked and ran like new...while running it up in preparation for a re-test it decided to break a rod bearing cap and self destructed on the spot...just one of the cruel jokes that age and metal fatigue can play on you...:frown:

this sucks i love my lumina...

Don't take this as an insult, but perhaps you don't "love" your Lumina quite as much as you imply. Driving it down the freeway with the temperature gauge pegged is a fast track to the scrap heap. With aluminum heads bolted to an iron block, there are already enough challenges keeping the deck area sealed. Overheating it is just asking for head warpage and subsequent leaks.

Further, operating at eleveted temperatures for more than a couple minutes has probably started to cook the polymers out of your oil and create sludge. As soon as you get the belt situation repaired, you need to change the oil ASAP. If you are using a PAO synthetic, you might get by with continuing to use the oil, but a plain mineral oil or semi-synthetic is ruined at higher temperatures and will be all but useless as a lubricant. If you ignore this, your engine mount and any potential timing chain problems will be solved when you bolt the new engine in place.

Driving around (for an undertermined time) on noisy brakes is only going to increase the cost of repairs. A set of pads is about $40 for really good ones, $25 for OEM type replacements. New rotors (after chewing up the old ones from worn pads) will add another $160.

A new accessory belt is about $22. A ratchet to install the new belt is about $10. There is even a diagram label under the hood showing the belt routing. If you get really lost, a repair manual can be had for about $20 (Haynes) and that's usually just good enough to guide you through these smaller repair projects. A 15mm socket (which fits your new ratchet) is about $7, and that will replace the $25 tensioner if it needs a new one. The hand cleaner you might need afterward is about $4. Need any more estiamtes?

Again, this isn't meant as an insult, but taking care of the small issues as they arise ususally helps prevent larger ones. Ignoring the "little" problems generally only gets deeper into your wallet. Consider yourself fortunate if you don't have coolant seepage/head leakage problems in the near future.

Don't take this as an insult, but perhepas you don't "love" your Lumina quite as much as you imply. Driving it down the freeway with the temperature gauge pegged is a fast track to the scrap heap. With aluminum heads bolted to an iron block, there are already enough challenges keeping the deck area sealed. Overheating it is just asking for head warpage and subsequent leaks.

Further, operating at eleveted temperatures for more than a couple minutes has probably started to cook the polymers out of your oil and create sludge. As soon as you get the belt situation repaired, you need to change the oil ASAP. If you are using a PAO synthetic, you might get by with continuing to use the oil, but a plain mineral oil or semi-synthetic is ruined at higher temperatures and will be all but useless as a lubricant. If you ignore this, your engine mount and any potential timing chain problems will be solved when you bolt the new engine in place.

Driving around (for an undertermined time) on noisy brakes is only going to increase the cost of repairs. A set of pads is about $40 for really good ones, $25 for OEM type replacements. New rotors (after chewing up the old ones from worn pads) will add anouther $160.

A new accessory belt is about $22. A ratchet to install the new belt is about $10. There is even a diagram label under the hood showing the belt routing. A 15mm socket (which fits your new ratchet) is about $7, and that will replace the $25 tensioner if it needs a new one. The hand cleaner you might need afterward is about $4. Need any more estiamtes?

Pretty sure they were looking for general shop price estimates...we're not all master mechanics here...:lol:

PS I don't use a tool on the tensioner, just push them by hand usually....

...we're not all master mechanics here...:lol:

...Including me (or, especially me).

I just can't see paying someone for a job so simple unless physical limitations or time coinstraints are an issue. There's some value in being somewhat independent.

:banghead: i have a 98 ltz with 43,000 original miles..ive had my brakes done twice because luminas have the worst rotors available..they rust to where the shoes grind the rotors..then ive had my a/c fixed from a leak. now my blower motor just expired on 8/09/06.. no other problems though, its a great running car and no flacking of paint..just new tires from dry rotting cracks.. my advice put 400-500 into it and injoy for some more years to come.. p.s. have u seen the price of used and new cars now, not to mention gas!!!lol

If your compressor locked up, the A/C repair will be expensive. If you can live without A/C, a company called Dorman makes a bypass pulley that bolts where the compressor was. The way the belt is routed on a 3.1, you cannot simply eliminate the compressor and run a shorter belt. This would cause the water pump to run backwards and overheat the engine. Labor for a 4 wheel brake job should be less than $150, and an alignment (your car requires a 4-wheel alignment) should be $60-$100 depending on where you live. Labor for installing a belt tensioner and belt should be less than $60. Why are you asking about a timing chain/tensioner, do you have some rattling at idle?