Question about A/C

Just a quick question about my 99 Venture.

While driving with the A/C on after about 30-45 minutes the blower stops blowing and the air is not cold. Then about 5 minutes later it will come back on.

Is this a symptom of the A/C system needing recharged or am I looking at electircal or is this normal?
MARK

I'm quite sure what is happening is the evaporator in the dash is freezing up after half hour or so. In really hot humid weather there is a lot of condensation coming off the evaporator because the air it is drawing in is hot and the evaportor is ice cold and that makes it freeze, stopping the air flow. Then a while later it has time to thaw out and work good again. If you have a recirculate setting use it as this will recool the air in the van instead of taking it from outside. If you don't have a recirculate button or setting keep the blower on high, it blows more cold air off the evaporator and there will be less chance for ice to form. Its also possible that the drain tube may be blocked, not letting the condensation to drip onto the ground and instead builds up in the heater housing and freezes. If it is very hot and humid with your a/c on in the driveway, and you don't notice any water dripping down, the tube could be plugged. Push a piece of wire in the tube would clear it out and help it drain.

Thanks for replying.
I do have a recirculate button but I know we haven't been using it. I'll turn it on. The drain tube is working fine because we leave a big puddle everywhere we stop.

Something else that is happening is we get a puddle of water on the inside of the drivers side floor when the A/C is on.

I would think that with using your recirculate the puddle will not form, I think the leaking on the floor may have come from when it was freezing then melts. I would give it some time. We have an 2004 caravan and what a difference it makes with the recirculate button on, much colder. I just wish that I didn't have push the button for the recirculate everytime I start it up because it turns off when you shut the van off....

as long as the puddle is not anti freeze, but water.

We just got back from vacation. I used the recirc button on the entire trip (around 900 miles one way). The air stopped coming out of the vents only 2 times but it lasted for about 30 minutes each time.

I'm still getting the puddle on the driver side and it is water not coolant.

Check the charge. I know that home A/C units will freeze up the evaporator if they are running low, but I haven't seen it on a car before....

I have one of those "self-refill" kits that has a reusable gauge on it. According to that, I'm good.

Found this on http://www.drivewire.com/pontiacparts/acevaporator.html

"The temperature of the ac evaporator can range from 34 degrees to 2 degrees Fahrenheit. If the evaporator goes below 32 degrees, the moisture thats supposed to drain off will freeze on the coils. To keep this from happening and to keep the ac system functioning at an optimum level, there is a thermostatic switch to connect and disconnect it to the compressor as necessary."

I am not sure where this switch is located, but it should give you a start.

Check the charge. I know that home A/C units will freeze up the evaporator if they are running low, but I haven't seen it on a car before....

Gosh Jack...

How much freon in the line has absolutely zero to do with water in the floor pans.

I have one of those "self-refill" kits that has a reusable gauge on it. According to that, I'm good.

Them one hose stop and go gauges do not tell you squat.:grinyes: :lol:
I sure hope you have not put any of that stop leak or oil crap in your system.
How did you come by the gauge from one of them?
Give us your low and high side pressure readings at idle ad at 2000 RPM with compresser running.

If you are getting water on drivers side in floorboard the drain is stopped up.

And say no to them Wal Mart DEATH KITS

You cannot properly and safely recharge an air condition system with them.

The one side stop and go gauge does not tell you what your system is doing or is over charged or undercharged.
A overcharged or malfunction air condition system can reach over 500 lbs of pressure.
Enough to blow up that can or system and freeze you at first and the burn you or blind you and if any propane /butane in there blow and light you up.

The stop leak crap and who knows what kind of oil in the kits there will stop your system for sure.
Just like pouring super glue in it.
And some kits even contain freon with a butane mixer.
Good for a big blast.

If you are going to do it do it right and safe.
Here is what you need to start with.
http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=66773

In the older days you could just throw in a can and go.
But over the years just adding freon is getting harder to do.
Newer systems have to have the correct amount of freon down to the ounces.
Most will need pumped down and vacuumed down and the right and amount of oil and a set amount freon charge installed to get the air to cool right and the system to last.
If an air condition is low there is usually a leak that needs fixed and also a lose of lubricating oil from system.
Also air and moisture enters a low system
If you are going to try to do it get the proper type air condition gauge set with the low and high side gauges.
Hook up the gauges and get a reading with compressor running at idle and at 2000 rpm on the high and low side.
Post back pressure reading and we can help you.
MT

If you are getting water on drivers side in floorboard the drain is stopped up.

MT

I think this is not necessarily true. See

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4282354#post4282354

...specifically, the last post(#5).

I think this is not necessarily true. See

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4282354#post4282354

...specifically, the last post(#5).


Not all systems have a cabin filters.
And even one that does it is not going keep the drain from draining.
How ever if the filter is stopped up on the ones that does have a filter it may kinder cooling and cause more moisture build up.
But if the drain is clean it is going to drain out.
I noticed you did not follow up on that post with the fix.
MT

But if the drain is clean it is going to drain out.


If the filters are blocked, completely blocked, then where is the air gonna' come from? The drain hole.

Yeah, I think if the filters are clogged, and air won't pull through the filters, then the blower is going to get its air from the drain hole. And if air is comin' in, water ain't gonna' go out.

That's what I've got goin' on right now.

I haven't driven since puttin' the filters back in a little while ago.

If the filters are blocked, completely blocked, then where is the air gonna' come from? The drain hole.

Yeah, I think if the filters are clogged, and air won't pull through the filters, then the blower is going to get its air from the drain hole. And if air is comin' in, water ain't gonna' go out.

That's what I've got goin' on right now.

I haven't driven since puttin' the filters back in a little while ago.


There is no way a blower can put a suction on the drain outlets or vents.
The drain is on the air out let side of evaporator and evaporator outlet air vents.
Put you finger over the drain vent and see what you feel.
If you do not feel air coming out your drain is stopped up.
Mt

Them one hose stop and go gauges do not tell you squat.:grinyes: :lol:
I sure hope you have not put any of that stop leak or oil crap in your system.
How did you come by the gauge from one of them?
Give us your low and high side pressure readings at idle ad at 2000 RPM with compresser running.

If you are getting water on drivers side in floorboard the drain is stopped up.

And say no to them Wal Mart DEATH KITS

You cannot properly and safely recharge an air condition system with them.

The one side stop and go gauge does not tell you what your system is doing or is over charged or undercharged.
A overcharged or malfunction air condition system can reach over 500 lbs of pressure.
Enough to blow up that can or system and freeze you at first and the burn you or blind you and if any propane /butane in there blow and light you up.

The stop leak crap and who knows what kind of oil in the kits there will stop your system for sure.
Just like pouring super glue in it.
And some kits even contain freon with a butane mixer.
Good for a big blast.

If you are going to do it do it right and safe.
Here is what you need to start with.
http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=66773

In the older days you could just throw in a can and go.
But over the years just adding freon is getting harder to do.
Newer systems have to have the correct amount of freon down to the ounces.
Most will need pumped down and vacuumed down and the right and amount of oil and a set amount freon charge installed to get the air to cool right and the system to last.
If an air condition is low there is usually a leak that needs fixed and also a lose of lubricating oil from system.
Also air and moisture enters a low system
If you are going to try to do it get the proper type air condition gauge set with the low and high side gauges.
Hook up the gauges and get a reading with compressor running at idle and at 2000 rpm on the high and low side.
Post back pressure reading and we can help you.
MT

You're saying a lot that's negative, and all is not necessarily correct.

I've done a re-charge on 4 late-model vehicles, with only the off-the-shelf stop 'n' go gauges, and have not had one detonate yet. That included a conversion of my 87 vette from R-12 to R-134A. I had absolutely no problem with it afterward...

Them one hose stop and go gauges do not tell you squat.:grinyes: :lol:
I sure hope you have not put any of that stop leak or oil crap in your system.
How did you come by the gauge from one of them?
MT

I didn't add anything to this vehicle. I had the gauge left over from a kit I used on a different car, which worked just fine, and blows very cold AC.

I'll check the filter and other stuff when I get a chance. The van just started stalling at idle today so I have to get that problem figured out first. Thanks for the input.
MARK

You're saying a lot that's negative, and all is not necessarily correct.

I've done a re-charge on 4 late-model vehicles, with only the off-the-shelf stop 'n' go gauges, and have not had one detonate yet. That included a conversion of my 87 vette from R-12 to R-134A. I had absolutely no problem with it afterward...


Well what part do you see that is not correct?

If you want to do some homework on AC here is a very good link.
http://www.autoacforum.com/
Ask them about the death kits and cabin filters not letting a drain drain.
MT

I didn't add anything to this vehicle. I had the gauge left over from a kit I used on a different car, which worked just fine, and blows very cold AC.

I'll check the filter and other stuff when I get a chance. The van just started stalling at idle today so I have to get that problem figured out first. Thanks for the input.
MARK


10-4 idle problem.
First things first.
If you are going to recharge or check the ac charge you need on of these to safe and do it right.
http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=66773
The stop leak crap that is in the kits is the worst parts of them.
http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=15719

Also here is link to a good ac repair forum.
http://www.autoacforum.com/

Let us know how it goes.
MT

You're saying a lot that's negative, and all is not necessarily correct.

I've done a re-charge on 4 late-model vehicles, with only the off-the-shelf stop 'n' go gauges, and have not had one detonate yet. That included a conversion of my 87 vette from R-12 to R-134A. I had absolutely no problem with it afterward...

Read the replys and answers to it to to get the hole affect of what a death kit can do.
MT

http://www.batauto.com/cgi-bin/Forum/db_TalkToMeV2.cgi?forum_name=domestics&message_number=37789&pid=

Gosh Jack...

How much freon in the line has absolutely zero to do with water in the floor pans.

If the evaporator freezes up (and impedes airflow) and then subsequently melts, then water could end up in the cabin. Like I said, I have seen it on home units, and they will flood the surrounding area when they melt.

Alright, I found out the wire that goes to my knock sensor was burnt. New wiring harness and labor = $255.

Now, does my van have an in cabin filter? It's a '99.
MARK

Now, does my van have an in cabin filter? It's a '99.
MARK

Open your glove compartment. You'll see an access door (for a 2000 Venture). I'm guessin' a '99 has the access in the same place - if equipped.

Also air and moisture enters a low system


This I think might not be correct...

Although possible, it seems to me that even on the low side of a running system, the pressure is still higher than atmospheric [surrounding] pressure, which makes entry of atmospheric gases and moisture unlikely.

Now, if the compressor has little freon on the low side to fill the high side, then I guess it might draw into the low side line (from a leak) some atmospheric gases, including moisture. But I bet the system would turn off before then...

This I think might not be correct...

Although possible, it seems to me that even on the low side of a running system, the pressure is still higher than atmospheric [surrounding] pressure, which makes entry of atmospheric gases and moisture unlikely.

Now, if the compressor has little freon on the low side to fill the high side, then I guess it might draw into the low side line (from a leak) some atmospheric gases, including moisture. But I bet the system would turn off before then...


You need to make another trip to ACKITS.com:grinyes: :lol: :rofl:
Remember the last time.
MT