2000 Grand Prix GT stalling at stop

My Grand prix (3800 engine) is occasionally stalling at stop signs. Is this a fuel sending/ injection problem??? I watch the rpm gauge, and when I hit the brakes the gauge drops below 1000 rpms and sometimes it corrects itself and but sometimes it just drops to zero and the car turns off. I have no codes on the car whatsoever (checked it out with a handheld code reader I bought from Advance Auto). Has anyone else had this problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!!!

You have one of three possible problems.

If stalling is only at low rpms or around idle possible defective idle air controller or just dirty. Try cleaning the IAC with carb or throttle body cleaner. Also, clean the seat where it mounts to the throttle body.

Second, it coud be an ignition related problem. So far maybe symptoms of a flaky crank position sensor (CKPS).

Third possibiity is a fuel delivery problem (not fuel injector). Check the fuel pressure at the Schader valve located at front fuel injector rail to see if in specs. Also, replacing the fuel filter won't hurt.

Well I cleaned the idle air controller- and man it was dirty (lots of black carbon deposits on it). The car no longer stalls at stops. It just turns off while it's sitting and idling. I think it's the fuel filter. I will change that out to see if that fixes the problem. Where is the crank position sensor (CKPS) located on my engine- is it easy to replace?? I read some other threads and people said a possible symptom for my problem is the vacuum lines on the intake manifold may be loose. I'm not sure how many there are and where they are all located to make sure they are on tight or not????

Well I cleaned the idle air controller- and man it was dirty (lots of black carbon deposits on it). The car no longer stalls at stops. It just turns off while it's sitting and idling. I think it's the fuel filter. I will change that out to see if that fixes the problem. Where is the crank position sensor (CKPS) located on my engine- is it easy to replace?? I read some other threads and people said a possible symptom for my problem is the vacuum lines on the intake mainfold may be loose. I'm not sure how many there are and where they are all located to make sure they are on tight or not????

Try the fuel filter first. Here is a procedure for location and changeout for the crank position sensor:

http://mykidz.net/GTP/CrankPosSensor.shtml

The main vacuum lines are located on the Throttle Body (TB) and Upper Intake Manifold (UIM). From the TB one goes to the fuel pressure regulator and the other to the purge valve. There is an accessory vacuum line that goes to the HVAC system. Vacuum related to the PCV valve is internal to the UIM so that will not be visible.

Man, I was having the same problems with my 2000 GT, I checked it out and it turned out to be the Mass Air Flow Sensor... I got it replaced for about 367 part and labor and it runs like a charm now.

I agree with Grim. I was having the same issue with my 2001 GTP and I changed the MAF and it worked great. It is pretty easy to do it yourself.

Yep. You guys are correct. It was the Mass Air Flow Sensor that was causing it to stall at idle and also when I would accelerate (because slowly but surely it was getting worse- before it would only stall at stops). I also replaced the fuel filter for good measure since it's original and I have 88000 miles. Now my car is back to normal. Thanks to everyone for their help.

Where exactly is the Mass Air Flow Sensor located? Mines bad and needs replacing and it was at a mechanics and they said its under the engine cover by the manifold and that looks like the throttle body to me. Is the MAF in all the black casing for the air intake?

It is the black module right on top of the throttle body. Two Torx safety screws hold it on. Here is one removed.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/maf.jpg

BTW - What year, model and engine Grand Prix? Make sure you get the right one for your year and engine.

Theres something else to it besides that sensor though. I think there is a part in the actual casing of the intake that is quite a bit bigger. I dont see how just that black sensor is $220.

Its a 2000 Grand Prix GT 3.8L

Theres something else to it besides that sensor though. I think there is a part in the actual casing of the intake that is quite a bit bigger. I dont see how just that black sensor is $220.

Its a 2000 Grand Prix GT 3.8L

No there is not. The MAF sensor new from GM is expensive. $221.13 is the GM List price.

You could get a remanufactured one from one of those national auto parts stores for 1/2 the price but those have a high failure rate especilly is it is an A1 Cardone part.

Checkout ZZPerformance.com. They have the GM MAFs for around $119 plus shipping.

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=378&PHPSESSID=7451bb86234133b5e7ee46203e7acd96

Are those good quality ones at ZZperformance?

Are those good quality ones at ZZperformance?

It is the GM OEM MAF sensor brand new not reman. I have never had a problem with any part I got from ZZP.

It is the GM OEM MAF sensor brand new not reman. I have never had a problem with any part I got from ZZP.


Thanx a bunch man I really appreciate the help

Don't buy the MAF not made by GM. The cheap one lasted me 2 years and now I have to replace it again. I will be buying the GM part this time for sure.

Just replaced MAFS on '98 GP GT 3.8L w/ 77K miles. Limped into local dealer 'cause I wasn't sure what was wrong ... engine hesitating & dying in traffic ... scary! $500+ later, I was back on the road. New GM part $360 & $150 for 1.5 hrs. labor. (Ironically, the GM part is made in Japan.) A sucker born every minute & I'm living proof. :rolleyes:

Wow, the part is expensive (even retail it's around $200), but they socked you for the labor. I could change that out in our parking lot in about 1 minute. That includes opening the hood and taking the engine cover off. I would go back and complain about the labor charge, as that is REDICULOUS.

Here is a link to our tips and maintenance subforum with a picture of where the MAF is located.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=746374

As you can see, it's 2 screws and a wiring harness plug to change it out once you get the engine cover off (which consists of unscrewing the oil fill cap adaptor and removing it).

Wow, the part is expensive (even retail it's around $200), but they socked you for the labor. I could change that out in our parking lot in about 1 minute. That includes opening the hood and taking the engine cover off. I would go back and complain about the labor charge, as that is REDICULOUS.

Here is a link to our tips and maintenance subforum with a picture of where the MAF is located.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=746374

As you can see, it's 2 screws and a wiring harness plug to change it out once you get the engine cover off (which consists of unscrewing the oil fill cap adaptor and removing it).
Thanks, Rich, for your info and link. I do feel stupid and it does hurt! There should be laws against taking advantage of the mentally impaired. I did ask for the old part and when I got home I quickly spotted the identical unit under the engine cover. I saw where I could have easily replaced it myself. I take heart in thinking I paid for their expertise and tools to diagnose the problem quickly and resetting computer functions for proper operation. It's not exactly a common problem that the average Joe would know about. But, I learned a lesson I won't soon forget. Thanks again for the heads-up.

NP Mr. Bill. I don't think you should feel stupid. This just goes to show that you can't trust a stealership (or many mechanics for that matter) to treat you fairly. Next time, drop in to AF first, and we'll be glad to point you in the right direction. that way you go in a little better informed so they can't do this to you again.

Oh, and forgive me, I forgot to welcome you to AF! Welcome!

I have a 2000 Grand Prix that stalled at a stop sign once and then was difficult to start. Today when driving 65 mph there was a noticable change in the engine, then the tac went to 0 and stayed there the traction control off light came on. The car continued to drive normally. I wonder if the car stalled and then restarted again because it was going 65? Does this sound like the Mass Air Flow Module? Thanks for your help.

Sorry, it is a 3800 super charged engine and when the car was parked and restarted, everything was back to normal.

I have a 2000 Grand Prix that stalled at a stop sign once and then was difficult to start. Today when driving 65 mph there was a noticable change in the engine, then the tac went to 0 and stayed there the traction control off light came on. The car continued to drive normally. I wonder if the car stalled and then restarted again because it was going 65? Does this sound like the Mass Air Flow Module? Thanks for your help.
I think those are the symptoms of a Crank Position Sensor going. If it does it again, I would consider changing it out.

Thank you for your help. From the net I gather it could be a Crank Position Sensor, my milage is 106K. Both times the car did this it was during a light rain; however with 6 months between stalls, it will be hard to pin down. From net infomation it looks like it might also be the Oxygen sensors, neither they or the CPS is something I want to attempt to replace myself. I did find other posts where it was either the Ignition Module or Mass Air Flow Sensor/module. Those I could replace myself. One poster said he disconnected the MAF and his car ran better without it, and it fixed his problem. Would this damage the engine if I tried this. Another had the exact same symptoms and the Ignition Module was his problem. Thanks for your help, I'm a student and don't have a lot of car repair money in the cookie-jar.

Derick, your issue sounds more like a crank position sensor to me as well. It's not technically difficult to replace, but the harmonic balancer has to be removed to access it. It requires both a special tool to remove, and a torque wrench to re-install the retaining bolt.

As far as your question regarding the MAF sensor. Many AF members have unplugged their MAF sensors to test with no damage caused. Just be sure to unplug it with the car off, not while running. If the car runs better with the MAF unplugged, chances are that it's the issue. When this design MAF starts to fail, it may not trip a CEL, but can still cause the hesitation/hard start symptoms described.

I just bought a gtp a lil over a month ago. The car has 167000kms on it. I just put new after market head lights in. The person who did the head lights did a half ass job. Today im having that all looked at. The reason I am on here is because my car stalled on me at a red light. The rpms have bin real jumpy yesterday. The day I got my head lights put in is the day things started happening to my car. The day they got put in I went to start my car, and it started, but as I was in park the car started to shake. I didnt think much of it then. But yesterday it happened again and my rpms are all over the place when im driving VERY SCARY with the kids in the car. I parked my car and im having my gfs dad look at it today. I was told its either your fuel injection problem Or a bad ground wire. Remember this all started the day I had my head lights put in. I am really nervous because I really hope its not a big problem, I just bin stressing over this alot today. So im on here trying to get some answers or advice to what the problem could be, and how much money am I lookin at spending to fix the problem. Anyone could help me out that would be greatly appreciated.

. I’ve experienced kind of the same problem with my 00 Pontiac GP SE. My car would stall whenever I fuel up or come to a stop, especially on a hot summer day. I was advised by one of the moderator to try disconnecting the MAF sensor. By having the MAF sensor disconnected I didn’t experienced any rough sluggish or stall after fueled up and or stops. Additionally, you might want to check your gas cap. The gas cap prevents vapors from exiting. My original gas cap rubber seal was brittle so I changed it and the problem is solved.

2000 Grand Prix GT 3.8 non-supercharged engine was randomly stalling when at operating temperature, at any speed, at any rpm, or idling. Ran well when it ran, but RPMs would randomly drop to zero and the engine would stall. Worsening occaisional no-start condition with no spark. All power in the vehicle remained on. Sometimes would start right back up and other times would not start for 3-30 mins.
No check engine light and so no codes to pull. No traction light issues which sometimes occur when the crankshaft position sensor is failing. I didn't want to change the crankshaft position sensor because, quite frankly, it sucks. Changed the ignition control module. No change. Changed plugs and wires with no change. Finally decided to change the CPS. After much research and finding conflicting information I compiled a procedure with just the truthful parts I found and it worked beautifully and the car runs perfectly now. The CPS on these cars fail. If you have decided to change yours out it is a $35 part and is DIY with the proper information, which follows, some ingenuity, and some mechanical apptitude:
Jack and secure car. Remove passenger side tire and the plastic wheel well. The clips will probably break, so buy new ones at a hardware store later. Number and remove spark plug wires from the ignition control module so the car won't start. Remove the center bolt (15/16th inch head) from the harmonic balancer. Easiest way to do this without a doubt is to postion a flat wrench on the bolt, rest the boxed end of the wrench on the car frame in front of the harmonic balancer, and tap the starter. Remember to disable the car from starting. Bolt will break loose. To pull off the harmonic balancer use a standard harmonic balancer puller, but you will need special grade 8 bolts and washers. 1/4-28 bolts, 3" long, one inch of thread is o.k. Place a short 3/8" extension in the crank bolt hole to protect the threads. Carefully, by hand, thread the specialty bolts through the puller and into the 3 holes on the balancer that seemingly have no threads. The threads are farther in and not visible. Make sure the bolts are straight, and inserted to an even depth into the harmonic balancer. Use washers or the bolt heads will gouge and pull through the puller. I turned my specialty bolts 15 quarter turns into the harmonic balancer. Turn the puller's main bolt that it is pushing on the 3/8"extension you placed in the crank bolt's hole. Balancer came right out/off. Remove crankshaft position sensor shield. Mine was plastic. Spread the teeth that connect the shield to its bolts with a small standard screwdriver and pull/pry just a bit. No reason to remove the shield from the bolt farthest towards the rear of the car. You'll be using thread glue on the main bolt when you put in in so you can use some of that on the shield where it connects if you mess up the plastic teeth on the shield a bit. Remove the old sensor's two bolts, and save the part to torture in fire later. Bolt in new sensor, replace shield. Line up the harmonic balancer with its cotter key deal and start pulling the balancer back on with a torque wrench. To keep the engine from turning open the smalll access hole to the flywheel on the bottom of the car (two bolts). Place vicegrips on the flywheel or wedge something in the teeth. Tighten your glued main bolt to 112 lbs plus 76 degrees. You now have a car you can count on and need not worry about it dying while driving down the road. I love mine now. Just wish someone would have made these all inclusive and accurate directions for me.

A couple more things. Since you're in there, replace the front crankshaft seal. Also, clean out the key slot in the balancer and put a fresh bead of silicone adhesive in it. This will prevent oil from sneaking out at this point.

My 2001 Grand Prix Special Edition was stalling, sometimes in traffic, often at stoplights when idling. Was not tripping any codes. Check your fuel pressure, and if its less than 53 psi, suspect your fuel pressure regulator. My FPR had a leaky diaphragm, and replacing that solved my stalling issue.
Ron Jennings, Mesa, AZ.

Good info, but this thread is dead for over 5 years.