Link'n it up!

ok, was reading on DSMLink.com about how dsmlink isnt for "noobs" well, i'm a "noob" to tuning, and was wondering if someone could give me a basic tune to get fair performance with FMIC, K&N FIPK, FMIC, 255HP, AFPR, NGK BPR7ES spark plug, and full 3" unrestricted exhaust, stock T2-Small, Stock Injectors, stock cams. anything from anyone, especially Keven or Sphyder? thanks guys

man that's just not something you can do. Without being there to see what the car can take, it's just not possible. However, if I had to do something, I would leave timing alone (only pull it if it is indeed knocking) and remove 5% of fuel across the board on the WOT table. Just because the stock ECU is just so damn rich. Read the manual, re-read it, it's really pretty simple. Anyone can do it. Post some WOT logs and we can guide you a bit better.

Crunchy said the same thing I was going to. If you are afraid to start tuning, leave the sliders alone. You can safely take out 10-11% fuel to get to 11:1, if everything is working correctly. The 5% value is a good piece of advice though because we don't know that your injectors flow accurately, the fuel pressure is spot on, etc. Just keep on reading the DSMlink forums and start slowly. Small changes, and log constantly. I used to log whenever the car was running. That lets you start to see what the ECU is really doing, and can be very informative in the begining.

IF you can swing it, log boost and AFR. Logging boost is simple and cheap. About 50 bucks for the GM 3.3 Bar sensor, and easy to wire in. The forums have all the info you need. With this feedback you can verify your airflow and remove one more variable. This also alows you to trust DSMlinks AFR calc a little more. Then when it's in the budget, get a WBO2 and log it, to verify the AFR in DSMlink. By having this boost and AFR feedback, you can really make DSMlink a powerful tuning/diagnostic tool. This is where the real power of DSMlink is ;) You'll be able to get a real good tune with much less talking. We can simply say run 11:1 AFR on pump, 12:1 onm race gas, and add timing till it knocks or stops picking up power. Etc. Much simpler than having to go back and forth, wondering if airflow is right, etc.

The point is, more info means safer tuning, especially for beginers. :) In the meantime, take crunchy's advice, it's the same I would give, to get started.

alright, well then, i guess that means it is somthing i would be able to get into. i'll probably go ahead and order my dsmlink tomorrow, also, i have one more question, would you suggest that i get the "inverted cas" ? or not? also, when i hook up my eprom, dont i have to switch plugs 1 with 2 and 3 with 4 or something like that? once i get it up and running, i'll post some of the logs, and see what you guys think. I'M SO EXCITED!!! I've wanted DSMlink since i was born! lol. i just dont want to F-up my pride and joy. ;)

Having a 99 car running a 95 ECU you would want invert cas selected and you will have to swap the plug wires. 95-96 cars had the cam angle sensor out of phase from all the other years, and this will be carried over when you use a 95 EPROM ECU. The rest of the configurable defaults should just be user preference.

ok, great, and what do you think a good launch rpm would be on a GST? i was thinking something like 4500?

I wouldn't worry too much about the launch rpm, that's something you're probably going to have to change every time you run the car anyway... For defaults the important things are those that you need to get you home if your battery dies and you don't have your laptop, like injector size.

you won't use the stutterbox unless you're running slicks. Leaving the line with boost is great, but we spin the tires without boost...