B-series Turbo application

I have gone through many transformations while coming to the decision of my engine swap. Any way I look at it I am going to want to go turbo. At first I was going to buy a ZC with LSD then rebuild the bottom in with forged pistons, rods, rings, gasket and have it resurfaced, have the head and intake manifold ported and polished and have a 3 angle valve job done on the head, then go turbo. Then I found out I can do the b16a swap for $3800 instead of $5200 (what another shop origianlly quoted), so I decided to go b16a and then later on turbo it using the F-max turbo kit. Now I have been told that a b18- series motor would be the best bet for turbo because of the compression and size. A b18a (140hp 118-121 torque) 1.8liters compression? It makes good torque and with required modification to run turbo I could have it past 160hp with ease (head work and bottom end work). Others have suggested a b18c or b20. What would you suggest?

i say b18b for turbo, low compression and pretty cheap compared to the b18c. although you have to boost more to get the same horsepower, the b18b would be my choice. has more torque too.

Definatly go for the B18b. After you build the bottom end and change the cams it will be just as good as the B18c, but much cheaper. I've also heard that you can convert these to vtech by putting on a B16a head.

Sleave a B20 and pop a B16 or B18C5 head on it, you've got a bullet proof engine. Plenty of room for boost, and if i'm not mistaken, that could make your car a little bit fast.....maybe

I agree a b18b would probably get u thr results you are looking for

Originally posted by QuickSilverEF9
It makes good torque and with required modification to run turbo I could have it past 160hp with ease (head work and bottom end work).

If by the "required modification" you mean a built bottom and lowered compression for higher boost, you'll probably not experience much of a hp gain just from that, as lowering of compression lowers horsepower considerably....

I would say b16a. High compression is not a bad thing if you tune your sh1t. How bout a Vortech SC w/aftercooler on a b16a. 277hp 175ft/lbs on 8-9lbs of boost.

I agree Boner

The B18B is by far the best engine to turbo for a street application. it is a better block and cost less to sleeve than the B20, the cost of it and the stroke make it a nice street engine. the lack of oil squiters makes it fall behind for a racing app, these can be added. another shortcomming is the lack of a stud girdle, there are companies that offer billett ones, i highly recomend one if you are going to go over the 300 hp mark or spin it past 8000.

If he is going to but new rods and pistons etc....it doesnt matter that the B18B engine has lower compression; He is basically going to be able to chose his compression ratio with all the work he is doing. For ease go with the B18A or a stroked B16 (better) and lower your compression to about 8.5:1. I am personally going to stroke my B16A3 to a 2.0L, sleeve it, all new head bolts, comp ratio at 8.5:1, Turbo manifold (equal length), T3/T4 turbo (16 lbs), 3 inch exaust and downpipe, Tial wastegate, Custom mandrel bent tubing, etc.....That is of course when i get out of NTI and get a real job.

I voted for the B18c1..basically on 7-8psi it will put down the same numbers as an ls at 11psi....the engine flows better and all in all is a better engine.

Bang for the buck definitly is the B18a/b.....for around $600 you can get a complete swap and it can give you 275whp if tuned properly. Not to mention if you want more boost you havent spent $1500 extra so you have more cash for pistons, rods, and the vtec head. Ls/Vtec is nice for boost. rev higher, better flow=300whp

If he is going to but new rods and pistons etc....it doesnt matter that the B18B engine has lower compression; He is basically going to be able to chose his compression ratio with all the work he is doing. For ease go with the B18A or a stroked B16 (better) and lower your compression to about 8.5:1. I am personally going to stroke my B16A3 to a 2.0L, sleeve it, all new head bolts, comp ratio at 8.5:1, Turbo manifold (equal length), T3/T4 turbo (16 lbs), 3 inch exaust and downpipe, Tial wastegate, Custom mandrel bent tubing, etc.....That is of course when i get out of NTI and get a real job.

we have found that for a street app the ideal compression is 9.5. this allows you to have good power out of boost and it spools the turbo quicker. if it is a straight race car than you can go with a lower comp and crank the boost alittle more. in 10 years of doing this that is the best comp that we have found for a streeted turbo car.

the b18a from 92+ is basically the same motor as the 94+ b18b, the only diiference is an increase of 2hp. might as well get the b18b since it probably has less miles and yes this motor has the ideal compression for f/i.

just outa curiosity, if ur gunna run a 9.5/1 comp ratio, what is the "good power out of boost" going to b...and is it safe for daily street use?

we have found that for a street app the ideal compression is 9.5. this allows you to have good power out of boost...

just outa curiosity, if ur gunna run a 9.5:1 comp ratio, what is the "good power out of boost" going to b (and @ what psi)...and is it safe for daily street use (i just say this cause "street app" might not be meant as daily driver)?

i've heard 12 psi is safe on stock internals on the b18

I have an 99 Acura Integra with an LS/Vtec Turbo and the result is awesome, believe me...If I were you, I would definitly go with b18b motor...

B18B will rip the other motors apart with a nitrous set up..

B18C is the best motor to turbo. Has a better flowing head than B18B, block girdle, and oil squirters. If you're going to do block work you might as well start with the best base engine you can get which is the B18C. Drop your compression to a safe number for your goals and build up the block and head for strength and boost away.

Yea but civic, whats the point in paying more for the b18c which costs more for the polish and higher compression pistons, just to lower that compression again? Maybe it is a more solid building block but it's kind of like taking a beautifully built engine, screwing it up, then building it up again. Maybe in a perfect world where we all had that much money, but there are always budgets. The 18b is almost as good, you just aren't paying for the higher compression.

Okay people, check the thread dates before posting. This is a dead thread. Before TEAM KLR's post on 11-29-03, the last post was almost a year before on 12-09-02. Read the thread dates, and try not to post in dead threads.

If he is going to but new rods and pistons etc....it doesnt matter that the B18B engine has lower compression; He is basically going to be able to chose his compression ratio with all the work he is doing. For ease go with the B18A or a stroked B16 (better) and lower your compression to about 8.5:1. I am personally going to stroke my B16A3 to a 2.0L, sleeve it, all new head bolts, comp ratio at 8.5:1, Turbo manifold (equal length), T3/T4 turbo (16 lbs), 3 inch exaust and downpipe, Tial wastegate, Custom mandrel bent tubing, etc.....That is of course when i get out of NTI and get a real job.

Unless your not getting a new B16 (assuming your getting a B16A/A1/A2 and not a B) your gonna wear your engine out really quickly at 16PSI

Unless your not getting a new B16 (assuming your getting a B16A/A1/A2 and not a B) your gonna wear your engine out really quickly at 16PSI

Okay dude, read what he wrote...he said he was building up his short block, re-sleeving it, and boosting it to 16psi. If he really builts up the short block correctly and sleeves itproperly , he'll be fine. Read what he wrote...which brings me to my next point.....

Jeez....CAN NO ONE READ??????? THIS THREAD IS DEAD...IT'S LAST POST WAS ON 12-09-02 UNTIL TEAM KLR POSTED A RESPONSE ON 11-29-03 ALMOST A YEAR AFTER THE THREAD DIED.....TRY NOT TO POST IN DEAD FORUMS....THE POINT IS MOOT. Now that the agruement over Privatebigandrew's motor that was being started is done, lets just close this dead thread.

Sorry about the caps, but it's irritating when people bring up dead threads and argue over a moot point. This knocks new threads that haven't had a chance yet down to the next page, and isn't fair....so let's all try not to post in dead threads