95 Jimmy SLE died while driving and now won't start

ok, like the title says...

My girls 95 GMC Jimmy SLE died while coming home from the holiday weekend. She pulled over and we tried to start the car but it wouldn't start, all it would do is crank.

Yesterday I first tried a scan tool to see if there was a code but no luck, the scan tool reported "PASS".

Then I check the fuses to make sure none were blown. No fuses were blown. Is there another fuse box location on this car other than the one on the drive side of the dash?

Then I checked to see if there is a spark. I pulled one of the plug wires and held it to a header bolt while my girl cranked it, got a spark. So I know it's not a coil or anything.

Next I decided to listen for the fuel pump to prime when you turn the key to the ON position. (Couldn't tell the other day on the side of the road with all the cars going past) I couldn't hear anything. All I heard was a click after I turned the key, then silence, then another click, then silent again. The first click happened when the humming from the fuel pump would normally start and the second click happened when the humming from the fuel pump would stop. So I assume the clicks are from the relay? So I assume the relay is working fine.

I'm guessing I need to replace the fuel pump. But before I go and do something like that, costs a decent amount and takes a good amount of time and hassle to drop the tank, I want to see what you guys think. Is there some test I should run to try and verify what the cause is? Do you think it's the fuel pump? Do you think it's something else?

You input would be great appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Sounds like the fuel pump to me. This happened to me about 6 weeks ago - just driving down the road and it died. You could put a fuel pressure guage on the test port (located just behind the intake - a shrader valve) to see if you are getting any pressure at all - if not, there you go - bad pump. The click is probably the fuel pump relay turning on. This is located in the glove box behind a panel at the back of the box. I don't envy you changing the pump - I've had to do it THREE times on my '95 SLE. One thing - buy a AC Delco pump, not a cheapie from Autozone, etc. Another thing, the sending unit. Really take your time getting the lines loose. I have had to replace TWO of these POS & they are about 3 X the price of the pump! The lines get fused pretty badly. Spray the fittings down with penetrating oil (a LOT) and work them as slowly as you can to get them loose. The ones I had to replace got twisted. The last one I put in I primered the hell out of it and used anti-seize on the threads. While your at it be sure to put a new fuel filter on.

Jon

yeah, it seems like the pump to me too.

I've been doing some reading on this and it seems like others have experienced very similar things when their fuel pump has gone out.

I figured the clicking was the relay.

Is PB Blaster good to use on the hard to loosen fittings on the sending unit? I'd really hate to have to buy that as well.

Are Bosch fuel pumps good?

Thanks for the tips and the responce. I really appreciate it.

I guess P-B blaster should do the job....just be prepared to be patient. That sending unit cost me over $400 the first time, and $220 the second time (I got a discount from a buddy who works for the city). I have seen them on the internet for less than $200 - but holy cow! That thing is WAY overpriced! I'm not sure about the Bosch pump. All I know is the 2 aftermarket pumps that went bad on me were not Delco & from what I have seen here in the past, it is the best one & after going through all of this, I'd want to have one that will last! :) The first pump that failed on me (original) had shorted out & actually MELTED the power wires INSIDE the tank together! WHOA! The last pump I replaced is a AC Delco. Time will tell.... BTW, last time BOTH friggin tank straps broke on me too! :( I'd juice that hardware good with the P-B blaster too....

Get yourself a 12 pack and tear into it. It ain't gonna be fun, but you'll save a lot of money :)

Jon

ok, like the title says...

My girls 95 GMC Jimmy SLE died while coming home from the holiday weekend. She pulled over and we tried to start the car but it wouldn't start, all it would do is crank.

Yesterday I first tried a scan tool to see if there was a code but no luck, the scan tool reported "PASS".

Then I check the fuses to make sure none were blown. No fuses were blown. Is there another fuse box location on this car other than the one on the drive side of the dash?

Then I checked to see if there is a spark. I pulled one of the plug wires and held it to a header bolt while my girl cranked it, got a spark. So I know it's not a coil or anything.

Next I decided to listen for the fuel pump to prime when you turn the key to the ON position. (Couldn't tell the other day on the side of the road with all the cars going past) I couldn't hear anything. All I heard was a click after I turned the key, then silence, then another click, then silent again. The first click happened when the humming from the fuel pump would normally start and the second click happened when the humming from the fuel pump would stop. So I assume the clicks are from the relay? So I assume the relay is working fine.

I'm guessing I need to replace the fuel pump. But before I go and do something like that, costs a decent amount and takes a good amount of time and hassle to drop the tank, I want to see what you guys think. Is there some test I should run to try and verify what the cause is? Do you think it's the fuel pump? Do you think it's something else?

You input would be great appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


That red single wire should be the fuel pump prime wire.
Jumper it with a fused 12 volt jumper wire and see if fuel pump runs.
Also the fuel pump should run the 2 second prime with key on.
See if the prime wire has 12 volts with key on 2 second prime.
But it it has no spark you will have to fix that first.
Check for good hot blue spark TO ALL PLUGS.

Is it a vcm or pcm computer? What engine? What engine code? 8 no in vin.
A VCM will have the computer under the water tank on right front fender.
MT

Well, I did some reading around and everyone seems to recommend either AC Delco or Bosch. So I'll call around and see what I can find.

I figure if I can start tomorrow, that all I'll probably do is get the everything sprayed with PB Blaster and let it sit all night and start at it early Saturday and hope to have it done by Saturday night. So I'll do my best to be patient, but if this takes longer than Sunday night, I'll probably be getting pretty frustrated.

ok, cool, glad I found the prime wire.

Sorry if my questions are going to be newbie questions but I just want to make sure before I do anything.

Where should I jump the prime wire to? Also, what do you mean by a "fused 12volt jumper wire"?

Yeah, I don't hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key, thats partly why I feel the fuel pump is the problem, but I want to make sure first.

To check if the prime wire has 12 volts, do I need anything connected to it or do I just touch one end of my meter to the wire and the other end to a ground?

I did check for a spark and got a nice blue spark but I didn't do it on ALL spark plugs. I will do that though.

I'm pretty sure the car has a VCM because it uses the OBD-II system. I never looked for the location though.

The engine is a 4.3L VORTEC.

I don't know what the engine code is but I don't have a 8 anywhere in my VIN.

Again, I'm sorry if any of my question seem like common knowledge but I'm trying and I'm learning. Thanks for the responces, they are really needed and appreciated.

Thanks

You can check the prime wire with a meter. You got it, touch the positive to the wire and the neg. to ground - you may have to work at it a bit to get a solid ground, just clean a spot off of the frame with a wire brush till you get shiny metal - that outta do it. Should have +12 V when the key is turned on. Tell ya what, spray the pb blaster on and after a lil time try to loosen the lines...if they don't loosen (much) spray it again and keep at it. I did this with rear brake lines that were all original & it took awhile, but damned if I didn't get BOTH of them loose! :) I'm not a very patient person, but this time I buckled down and took a l o n g time and it paid off. Jimmys EAT pumps - 'specially the 93 -95 models (not sure why, but that is what I have seen) - also tell her to keep about 1/4 tank of gas in the tank at a minimum - I have heard that once the tank gets low, with all the sloshing around of fuel, it can stress a pump out & bingo - shot pump.

You came to the right place to find this stuff out! These guys have been a blessing to ME. I ain't no mechanic, but have learned the hard way (like you I guess - :) ) I know more now than I really wanted to, but I have saved a lot of $$$ by finding this place! BTW, check out the FAQ section too. Just in case something with her truck might show up. VERY informative!

Good luck!
Jon

Cool, thanks. I'll give that a try tomorrow when I get off work. If it all checks out then I'll be starting to do fuel pump tomorrow as well. I'll probably spray as much as possible and then let it sit over night.

I found a AC Delco fuel pump for $10 more than the Bosch but I would have to wait until Tuesday for it to come in. Unfortunately I can't wait that long and would ideally like to have this completed this weekend. Plus by that time they are calling for rain 5 days straight and the car is outside, not in a garage. So we'll try the Bosch pump this time. It has a lifetime warranty so if it fails atleast we can get another one, just wouldn't want to do the job again thats all. But if it fails, we'll cross that road when the time comes. Just hoping that doesn't happen for a LONG time.

I'm usually pretty patient but sometimes things can really get under your skin.

She is usually pretty good about keeping a 1/4 tank or more in the car. But I'll let her know just incase.

Do you know where I should jumper the prime wire to? And what is meant by a "fused 12volt jumper wire"?

yeah, this place seems pretty good. When I first got into Hondas I didn't know anything about Hondas or cars in general. I found a website for Honda and started reading. I joined and have been there for almost 4 years now. I've learned a lot in that time period. So when she got this car and needed me to do some work I started searching for good web forums like the one I'm on for Hondas. Found a couple but didn't like them much and then I found this one. Looked around and felt it was pretty good. Since then I haven't been disappointed with it. The search feature works pretty good to. Have found some good info through it.

I have checked out the FAQ section. It has some good info in it. Nothing for her right now but I'll keep checking it to see if anything new has been added.

I'll update when I can with what I've found.

Thanks!!

Ya gotta do what ya gotta do - I SURE understand that! I think Bosch is a good mfgr, time will tell. I just HATE doing this job! Lifetime warranty = good :)

A fused 12V line is referring to putting a fuse in the +12 line. Go to radio shack and buy an inline fuse holder (cheep) and put a fuse that is the same size as the pump fuse....(10A I "think" - just check the ur fuse block to see what the proper size is). It is a simple test jig of sorts. Good she keeps gas in it - I tend to be a tight arse and let it go below 1/4 a lot.... :)

I have done all of mine in a gravel driveway outside....be prepared to be p-o'd! If the lines come off fairly easily, you are ahead of the curve. Learn from MY mistakes - work those lines s l o w l y and hit the crap out of them with penetrating oil a LOT & you'll save a lot of $$$ Those lines, being where they are get real nasty. Anti-seize is YOUR friend...along with spraying things with a couple of coats of primer when you re-install.

Good luck, brotha. It is a crappy job - BUT worth it in the long run!

Jon

I also have a '95 Jimmy and the same thing happened to me. Driving down the highway and it just shut off. I'm in the process of replacing the fuel pump now.

I’m also going with a Bosch pump. I got it from AutoZone. Don’t forget to replace the little sock type filter that attaches to the bottom of the pump. You have to buy it separate with the Bosch pump. They call it a Filter Kit - Part # 68006 and it sells for $10.99

I first purchased an Airtex pump at the local parts store, but after reading the posts on here and talking to a couple mechanics I took it back and ordered a Bosch online as none of the parts stores around here sell them. It cost me a re-stocking fee of 7 bucks to return it, but what the hey. The Airtex did come with a sock filter though.

On the '95 there is a fuel pump test wire under the hood on the driver’s side next to the fender, under the hood hinge. It’s a red wire that has a gray plastic cover on the end of it and it just hangs there next to the electrical junction box. Put a live 12 volt jumper wire to it and the fuel pump will run if it's not toast.

As has been said, the fuel lines that connect to the sending unit on the gas tank freeze up with rust. The flair nut gets rusted to the fuel line and when you try to turn the flair nut the fuel line will twist. I couldn’t get mine free even after letting it soak overnight, so I just went ahead and twisted it. Then I found out a new sending unit is 350 from the dealer and 125 from AutoZone. In my case the line that twisted off was the smaller line towards the passenger side of the tank, which is the return line, so I’m going to put it back tgether with a piece of rubber gas hose.

If you have a skid plate under your gas tank it will have to come off, which is a pain. If you have over a couple of gallons of gas in the tank you need to drain it, as even an empty tank is enough of a pain to remove. In my case I had just filled up the tank before it quit. (I guess this happens a lot when low on fuel, then you fill up and the cold gas hits the hot pump and toast) There is no drain plug on the gas tank, and the tank will weight over 100 pounds when full, not fun when lying on your back under your vehicle. No problem, just stick a small rubber gas hose down the filler neck and pump the gas out, right? Wrong. Where the filler tube connects to the fuel tank, there is a little plastic ball inside the filler neck, which is only a couple millimeters smaller than the inside of the filler neck. It lets gas go into the tank, but not a small hose. The purpose of the little ball is to prevent gas from running out of the tank if the vehicle turns upside down, as the gas will press the ball against a seat and seal off the filler neck. Next I thought I would disconnect the filler tubes and remove them from the vehicle. Wrong again. The filler tubes have a bracket made onto them that is bolted to the frame where they cross over the rear axle, and there is not enough room between the body and the bolt to get a wrench on the bolt. Thus, the only option left is to lower the gas tank enough for the filler tubes to disengage the tank and then put a hose in the tank where the filler tube was and drain it.

The next problem; on mine there is a plastic shield attached to the front of the tank that won’t come off until the tank is pulled to the rear of the vehicle. No problem I thought, but I forgot about the little plastic bubble vent thing on the driver’s side front corner of the tank with a small hose connected to it. When I pulled the tank back it caused the nipple to break off of the plastic bubble vent thing. This can be repaired with epoxy glue or you can purchase a new one from the dealer for 20 bucks.

When I finally got the tank out I found the flange and locking ring on top of the sending unit had a thick coating of some kind of epoxy sealer on it. I had to take a hammer and screw driver to chip all this crap away and then still had a hard time getting the lock ring to turn. It turns clockwise by the way, after you knock down the 3 tabs. I hope to get my tank back in tomorrow. Below are some pic’s, hope they’re helpful. I know they would have been for me.

http://www.delcochran.com/fuel_pump.jpg

DelC

In some reading on here and that, I did find people recommending both Bosch and AC Delco but advised against any other. Hopefully the Bosch will be fine. Time will tell though.

I figured a fused 12v line was that but I wanted to make sure. I'll make a quick stop and pick up some wire, fuse holder and fuse. So I just connect this wire like I would to check for the 12v at the prime wire right? Just connect one side to the negative post or ground and the other to the prime wire?

I deffinately do my best to go as slow as possible on those sending unit lines. I would really hate for her to have to buy that as well.


There isn't a skid plate under the tank but there is that plastic cover in front of the tank. Thanks for the tip on the plastic niple that breaks easily. I'll keep that in mind so hopefully I don't break it.

I'm not sure how much gas is in there. We were about 1/2 way home and she had filled up before we left. Considering her car will go there and back on one tank with little driving inbetween, there is probably 12 gallons or so in there. I was hopeing there was a drain bolt on the gas tank though. Oh well, I'll have to drop the tank a bit to disconnect the filler tube and drain it from there. Thanks for the tip as well.

In one of the pictures, it says the Bosch fuel pump gasket supplied with the pump doesn't fit? Does this gasket need to be replaced? Or should is it fine to leave it alone? Should I use some Permatex gasket sealant?

Thanks for the pictures and all the responces. They are very helpful. Hopefully this job goes ok. I'll update with what I find and if I'm having any problems with anything.

Thanks!!

Well, I did some reading around and everyone seems to recommend either AC Delco or Bosch. So I'll call around and see what I can find.

I figure if I can start tomorrow, that all I'll probably do is get the everything sprayed with PB Blaster and let it sit all night and start at it early Saturday and hope to have it done by Saturday night. So I'll do my best to be patient, but if this takes longer than Sunday night, I'll probably be getting pretty frustrated.

ok, cool, glad I found the prime wire.

Sorry if my questions are going to be newbie questions but I just want to make sure before I do anything.

Where should I jump the prime wire to? Also, what do you mean by a "fused 12volt jumper wire"?

Yeah, I don't hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key, thats partly why I feel the fuel pump is the problem, but I want to make sure first.

To check if the prime wire has 12 volts, do I need anything connected to it or do I just touch one end of my meter to the wire and the other end to a ground?

I did check for a spark and got a nice blue spark but I didn't do it on ALL spark plugs. I will do that though.

I'm pretty sure the car has a VCM because it uses the OBD-II system. I never looked for the location though.

The engine is a 4.3L VORTEC.

I don't know what the engine code is but I don't have a 8 anywhere in my VIN.

Again, I'm sorry if any of my question seem like common knowledge but I'm trying and I'm learning. Thanks for the responces, they are really needed and appreciated.

Thanks


I need the 8 th no over in the vin no. Z or W?
Or just give me the first 10 numbers/letters

Tell me which one and I will pdf you a wiring on it.
You can check for voltage with a good volt/ohm meter or a regular old 12 volt test light.
Just make sure the fuel pump is getting 12 cvolts to ir and a good ground before you call it bad.
MT

MT, great pictures! This is why this place rocks! My Jimmy is a "W" vin code, you can find that on the VIN tag. I forgot about the vent tubes! Luckily mine slid right off...unlike most, I dropped my tank full - with the help of a floor jack and a piece of piece of plywood. You may also want to inspect the pulsator, the rectangular deal just above the pump. Last time I noticed the rubber seals on it were starting to rot. I got a replacement at Autozone for about $20. I have heard some don't have it, they have a piece of tubing in place of the pulsator.

oh, I'm sorry. I misunderstood what you were saying, I appolagize for that.

The 8th digit in the VIN is a W.

I appreciate you sending me that wiring PDF.

I have both a good multimeter and a 12v test light.

I plan to test at the prime wire and then again at the fuel pump connection to make sure I have power and ground before I do anything with the fuel pump. If both check good, then I'll go ahead and replace the pump.

I should be able to update on the progress later this afternoon/evening after I get over there and do the tests. I'll let you know what I find out.

Thanks!!

well, I plan to use a floor jack to remove the tank but I don't want to make it any more difficult than need be so if I can find a pump or something to get the fuel out of the tank, then I'll do that to save the hassle of the heavy tank.

I'll be sure to check that pulsator as well. What exactly should I be looking for on it anyway? Is it a good idea to replace it while I'm in there just to be safe or is it not a common thing to fail? AutoZone has a AC Delco pulsator in-stock for 20.99 If I don't have the pulsator and just the rubber tubing like you said, do I need to do anything?

Thanks!!

oh, I'm sorry. I misunderstood what you were saying, I appolagize for that.

The 8th digit in the VIN is a W.

I appreciate you sending me that wiring PDF.

I have both a good multimeter and a 12v test light.

I plan to test at the prime wire and then again at the fuel pump connection to make sure I have power and ground before I do anything with the fuel pump. If both check good, then I'll go ahead and replace the pump.

I should be able to update on the progress later this afternoon/evening after I get over there and do the tests. I'll let you know what I find out.

Thanks!!


You are welcome.
It is in the mail. If you do not get it or cannot open or read it let me know.
Good Luck. MT

Great, Thanks!

I got it and printed it out. Looks good.

Quick question to make sure I'm reading this right.
The fuel pump is on a 20A fuse right? I just want to make sure before I go to Radio Shack to get the fuse holder and fuse to make that jumper wire.

Ah, another question, not about that PDF though.
I tried the other day to get to the relays in the glove box but couldn't get the cover off. I had pulled up on the two tabs on the bottom then tried pulling out on the cover but it wouldn't budge. Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks!!

Great, Thanks!

I got it and printed it out. Looks good.

Quick question to make sure I'm reading this right.
The fuel pump is on a 20A fuse right? I just want to make sure before I go to Radio Shack to get the fuse holder and fuse to make that jumper wire.

Ah, another question, not about that PDF though.
I tried the other day to get to the relays in the glove box but couldn't get the cover off. I had pulled up on the two tabs on the bottom then tried pulling out on the cover but it wouldn't budge. Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks!!

The fuel pump should not pull over 10 amps.
But a 20 amp fuse or circuit breaker is good. The fuse is just for saftey in case of a short someplace.
I always us a circuit breaker to save on fuses but either one will work.
On the cover give it another try or there may be a hidden tab.
They do not make it easy.
Also check both sides of your fuel pump fuse for 12 volts.
Good luck MT

ah, a circuit breaker, thats a good idea. I'll see if Radio Shack has anything for a good price.

hmm... no they don't do they, make it easy that is. ok, I'll just try it again.

Thanks

Also check both sides of your fuel pump fuse for 12 volts.

ok, just so I'm clear on this one... I just take the ends of each probe and put them into each side of the fuse to check for the volts right?

ok, just so I'm clear on this one... I just take the ends of each probe and put them into each side of the fuse to check for the volts right?

Not unless you are checking ohms.
With a volt meter you ground the neg probe. And use the positive prove to check for voltage.
On a fuse check both sides with the positive probe for voltage.
And if all else fails read the instructions that came wit the volt/ohm meter.
MT

One quick note here, a brass drift punch should be used to avoid any sparks!!

Not unless you are checking ohms.
With a volt meter you ground the neg probe. And use the positive prove to check for voltage.
On a fuse check both sides with the positive probe for voltage.
And if all else fails read the instructions that came wit the volt/ohm meter.
MT

ah, ok.

Thanks

One quick note here, a brass drift punch should be used to avoid any sparks!!

Good point, I'll have to find one.

Thanks

. . . I'll be sure to check that pulsator as well. What exactly should I be looking for on it anyway? Is it a good idea to replace it while I'm in there just to be safe or is it not a common thing to fail? AutoZone has a AC Delco pulsator in-stock for 20.99 If I don't have the pulsator and just the rubber tubing like you said, do I need to do anything?
The Bosch fuel pump doesn't use a pulsator, as it's not needed. Read the instructions that can with your Bosch pump.

Bosch style turbine pumps provide a steady stream of fuel as opposed to older georotor or roller-cell type fuel pumps that provide fuel in high speed pulses. Output from a turbine is smooth, consistent and high volume + pressure. The little black high pressure fuel line that came in the Bosch kit replaces the bulbous, brass and plastic press-fit pulsator unit.

ok, I'm trying to check for power at the pump as we speak. I checked the black wire and it looks good but no power on the gray wire like you guys are saying. There are three wires going to the pump... Black, Pink(ish) and Gray. I can't get any volts to read on the gray wire but I get a volt reading on the Pink wire. Is the Pink wire the one I'm supposed to be checking? What is the pink wire for? Please let me know asap because I'd like to get this part figured out tonight before we lose light.

Thanks

On the '95 there is a fuel pump test wire under the hood on the driver’s side next to the fender, under the hood hinge. It’s a red wire that has a gray plastic cover on the end of it and it just hangs there next to the electrical junction box. Put a live 12 volt jumper wire to it and the fuel pump will run if it's not toast.

Have you tried the above??

yeah but nothing happened. Maybe I didn't have it in there all the way or have a good connection but nothing happened thats why I went to the connection at the fuel pump under the car to make sure it was getting power. But thats where I got confused because everyone is saying the gray wire is power but the gray wire isn't showing power. The pink wire is however getting volts and noone said anything about a pinkish colored wire being there. Just like in the pictures you posted earlier, that purple/pink (or whatever color it is) color wire.

Thanks

Stand by a couple minutes and let me get my trouble shooting repair manual out.

ok

Thanks

Here is what my book says. Disconnect chassis harness fuel pump connector. Probe cavity terminal "B" of harness for ignition voltage with a test light to ground apply fused 12v to fuel pump test terminal.
---------------------------------------
Test light on - connect test light ground to Circuit 450 (blk/wht wire) - test light still on replace fuel pump - test light off repair open circuit in Circut 450 (blk/wht wire).
--------------------------------------
Test light off - repair open circuit in Circuit 120 (gray wire).

Terminal "B" will be the Gray wire.

I have no idea what he pink wire is.

well, there are three wires at the fuel pump connector. The gray and black wire are on the end and the pink or purple (whatever) wire is in the middle.

Where is Curcuit 450 located?

I reconnected the jumper wire to the prime connector and nothing happened. I checked the prime wire for volts and it tested good. So I would assume everything is good there.

I just don't know what this pink or purple or whatever wire is that is the only wire getting power at the fuel pump.

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to be sure I'm replacing the right part.

Thanks

Circuit 450 (blk/wht wire) is just a ground wire. It will never have current.

I imagine the Pink wire goes from the sending unit to the fuel gauge, as no other wires come out of the sending unit and the fuel gauge has to get it's info from the sending unit somehow.

Under normal conditions with the key off there should not be any current/volts on the red fuel pump jumper wire. If there is, this usually indicates the oil sending unit is bad. (I don't know about when the key is on)

Put your live 12v jumper wire back onto the red test wire and leave it there when checking for current on the Grey wire. You can check for current with a test light or volt meter, but in any case make sure you get a good ground when testing with your meter or test light. (Since you say the pink wire has current, you can use this same source for a ground when testing the Grey wire and you will know you have a good ground)

If you have NO current on the Grey wire, then the relay or PCM is probably bad.
If you have current on the Grey wire then use the black wire for a ground from your meter or test light. If you have a light/volts between the blk and Grey wire the fuel pump is bad.

If you only have current on the Grey wire when using a ground other than the black wire, then the black wire (Circuit 450) is not making a good ground.
---------------------------------
By the way, the cover on the relay box in the glove compartment unhooks from the bottom. Don't know if you ever got that cover off or not. There is a tab on each side that you press up on and the bottom of the cover will come loose. You have to have everything out of the glove compartment to get the cover off. There are two relays in there, both are the same kind/type, the one on the left is for the transmission and the one on the right is for the fuel pump. You can swap them to see if it makes any difference on the test wires.

Good Luck,

DelC

ok, I think I get what your saying. I'm leaving to go back over there in just a few minutes so I will try those tests when I get there.

When I was testing for current, I used both the black wire and a ground to the frame and they were always the same. So the black wire should be fine.

You talked about if the red prime wire has power with the key off that it usually indicates a bad oil sending unit, would a bad oil sending unit cause these same problems I'm having?

Thanks

ok, I jumpered the prime connector under the hood and then checked for power between the gray and black wires at the pump and it does have power.

I then removed the jumper and turned the key to the ON position and checked for power again to the fuel pump, but this time there was no power to the gray wire.

So I'm confident in the fact that the pump is bad since we jumpered the prime wire and got power to the pump but it didn't prime. But I'm wondering why when we remove the jumper and turn the key to the on position that we don't have power to the gray wire. Is there a switch or something I should be checking for this problem. Almost seems like I have two problems, one being the fuel pump and another not letting power to the pump with the key turned.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

. . . I'm wondering why when we remove the jumper and turn the key to the on position that we don't have power to the gray wire. Is there a switch or something I should be checking for this problem. Almost seems like I have two problems, one being the fuel pump and another not letting power to the pump with the key turned.

You talked about if the red prime wire has power with the key off that it usually indicates a bad oil sending unit, would a bad oil sending unit cause these same problems I'm having? Any thoughts? Thanks
Have you checked the relay as indicated in the diagram I posted above?? What are the results on that? Check the fuse in the main fuse panel, its fuse #10 in my panel but the book says it's #9. Both of those will cause no power on the grey wire when the key is turned on, but remember when you turn the key on, the power is only there for 2 seconds. And, then the key has to be off for 10 seconds before it will reset and give another 2 seconds.

Do you still hear a click when you turn the key on??

If you have 12v on the Red Test Wire with key off it would cause a good fuel pump to run continuously!! How much current do have there, is it 12V or something like 3v??

The most common thing to cause the Red Test Wire to have current with the key off is a faulty oil pressure switch. (Sending unit) However, there is an outside chance that there could be some quirk in the electrical system that may cause it too, but its not likely. And yes, a faulty oil pressure switch could cause it not to start, but it can't prevent the grey wire from getting current when you put current to the red test wire.

If you can see inside the connector for the grey and black wire at the gas tank when its disconnected, what does the inside of the connector look like? If that connection is not making good contact with the wires coming from the tank then the fuel pump would not get current.

If you’re sure the fuel pump is getting current and it’s not running I would go ahead and replace the pump and then do more trouble shooting if it still won’t start after replacing it. Actually you can’t go wrong on replacing the fuel pump. If it’s not bad now it will be very shortly considering it’s a ‘95 and never been replaced.

Let me know how it’s going.


DelC

ok, sorry for no update or responce. I got home a little bit ago after working on the car since 8am to 10a. making sure it was the pump. Made a run to the store to get flare nut wrenches and a syphen pump. Got to work about 11-11:30am and finished about 6:30pm with a break for lunch somehwere in there. Not bad to me.

...but remember when you turn the key on, the power is only there for 2 seconds. And, then the key has to be off for 10 seconds before it will reset and give another 2 seconds...

yeah, we didn't know that then but figured it out about 1hr after I posted my question. It may be common knowledge to some but we didn't know that. oh well, it was figured out and all is good now.

Also, I did check the relays but there were only three places with only one blank and the relays were switched and flipped around. But were able to figure out anyway with a light.

I didn't have any trouble, luckly, with getting those fuel lines disconnected. I had more trouble getting the flare nut wrenches on the fittings from all the rust on them. But once on there they came free nicely. The straps loosened fairly good as well. Had some fun getting the filler tubes disconnected from the gas tank though. Once they were removed I could syphen the tank.

Once I had the tank off the pump only took about 10-15 minutes to replace. Replaced it with a Bosch pump which came with two new pump gaskets (one of which did fit) and a rubber hose to replace the pulsator with. Replacing the pump went just fine.

I tried to replace the fuel filter before putting the tank back up but there is such little room to get to the front fitting I decided I wouldn't mess it up and just go onto finishing installing the tank. I feel I can get the rear fitting just fine because there is more room but I could seem to get to the front. If anyone has any tips I'm all ears.

The install of the tank was a bit of a pain though. Getting the front hose connected to the vent things was a real pain. The rest just took time slowly lifting it and moving it around and into place.

One thing I did find that makes things a bit easier atleast to me was to remove the spare tire (obviously on four door models). Removing it and lifting the car as high as the jack stands would allow, allowed me to sit under the car where the spare tire goes. That made it easier for me to do all the work at the back of the tank where the pump and lines are all at. Without doing that I think it would have made things a bit more difficult. I was able to get a good look at things, work on the lines and test the wires all from a comfortable position.

The Bosch pump is so quite I didn't even hear it when I first turned the key to make prime the pump. My heart sank on that first turn. Then I really listened and I though I heard a very very slight hum. So I turned it over and fired right up. My girl was very happy. Checked for leaks and let it run for 15-20 minutes at idle while I cleaned up.

I found the strap around the muffler was rusted to pieces so I figured we would take it to get that fixed then just have them replace the fuel filter at the same time unless I can find a good way of replacing it without messing up the fittings.

I would to thank EVERYONE who helped me on this. We are very greatful for all your help. I kinda figured it was the pump but it was nice to know for sure plus all the tips on how to do it really helped as well.

THANKS AGAIN!!! :bigthumb: :bigthumb:

I have the same Jimmy and the first of two after market fuel pumps went out 2 weeks after the mechanic installed it and one week after the second has been installed it is humming very loudly.......I am thinking I should call the mechanic again....

Way too old, this thread please start a new one, thanks.