16G turbo install

Hey guys I am going to be installing a big 16g here next week because I blew the oil seals on my T-25. I am already ordering the install kit for it from Road Race which includes the J-pipe and the other intercooler pipe, oil supply line and a few other goodies, I am also getting a Walbro 255 fuel pump, boost controller and boost gauge so that I can make sure its running right. From all of your expert opionions is there anything else that I need. My mod list is in my sig. And also what is a safe boost for me to run it at until I get my injectors and S-AFC in about a month or 2. Thanks in advance.

The install kit should pretty much cover it all, there's a write-up on vfaq.com on the install that should help. I wouldn't run more than 16-18psi otherwise you'll hit fuel cut (you might still hit it at 18psi).

If your getting the Walbro 255 pump you should also get a AFPR. You should also get a logger see how your car is running. Its hard to say how much boost to run without a logger, since every car is different. When I first got my b16g I was fine with 15psi on vr4 fuel pump. Anyways, good luck with your install.

The install kit should pretty much cover it all, there's a write-up on vfaq.com on the install that should help. I wouldn't run more than 16-18psi otherwise you'll hit fuel cut (you might still hit it at 18psi).

18psi will heat soak the stock intercooler pretty quick.. I would know! :grinyes: Time for a FMIC!:smokin:

DSMlink FTW. Way better than SAFC/pocketlogger, but I would suggest getting a logger in the mean time. Thats what I am doing, logger from Mike (EDMUND65) and DSMlink down the road.

I plan on getting the Zeitronix wideband 02 in the next couple months too. I was thinking of just doing like 16psi to be safe. What AFPR do you guys recommend?

Aeromotive Regulator seems pretty good, and many DSM'ers seems to like it. You can get the whole kit here:http://www.importevolution.com/product_info.php?products_id=1620

The other night i was running 26 psi with stock fuel... And no, i had no means of doing that. Talk about some serious creep.

i like my chargeair systems FPR. it bolts onto the end of the rail in place of the stock one and looks almost like stock except bigger and beefier.

fullthrottle and charge air systems both used to make them but they are kind of hard to find now.

Hey guys just an update on my 16g install...and another question....I just got the turbo today and when I opened it up I noticed that there is no wastegate actuator.....I think this is probably going to be a problem....can I use the one off of the stock turbo or is there somewhere that I can get a new one? not sure what to do...any help would be appreciated....

Wow, thats very strange.. Did you buy the 16g brand new? or did you buy it used from someone? If you bought it from a store I would contact them and let them know your missing a actuator.

To answer your question no, you can not use the stock actuator off the T25. Try checking out ebay for a 14b, or 16g actuator. You should be able to pick one up pretty cheap.

No I got it used from someone....I will try and call him tomarrow and ask him if he still has it....I am pretty upset that it isnt on there though.....I just looked on ebay though and there are a couple but the used ones look pretty beat up....and the one that is new is like $85

I have a hookup in the mitsubishi parts department here in town so I will call him tomarrow and ask him how much one would be from there....or does anyone know if the actuator from a 16g off of an evo would work because I could probably find one of those cheap as well...I know that they are backwards but not sure if it would still work or not....

If your gonna spend that kind of money on another wastegate then why not just weld the internal one shut and put an external one on instead. I would work much better and you'll have just as much money in it.

External WG setups start at nearly 300 bucks, and that's just for a Tial welded to the number one runner of the stock manifold. Money very well spent, but a lot more than this actuator is going to cost :) The EVO actuator will not work. As mentioned above your best bet is an actuator off a 14b or 16g, should not be more than 20 bucks, and even that's pushing it. Be sure to search for a post I wrote about how to set the preload properly when you install it. Even when people get turbos that come with the actuator, even brand new, check the preload. 90% of the time it's wrong. ;)

i actually have one, im not 100% sure, but i blew the first turbo i ever put on my spyder and still kept the wasgate, its like brand new, about 300 miles, then i blew the turbo, off the 16g, ill post later to see if i still got it, or find it. if i do have it, ill sell it to you for cheap.

Yeah that would be sweet if you still have one sitting around....I have been looking everywhere today...dsm trader...dsm tuners....ebay....there is one on ebay for like 15 bucks but it looks all jacked up...not sure if I would trust it....and I am pretty broke after having to spend all this money on turbo install kit and everything else so external wastegate is kind of out of the picture....

Be sure to search for a post I wrote about how to set the preload properly when you install it. Even when people get turbos that come with the actuator, even brand new, check the preload. 90% of the time it's wrong. ;)

Yes, thats for sure. Always check your preload. My b16g was spooling really late and slow, so I checked the actuators preload and it was off by alot. So I used a couple of washers to fix the problem!:p

How do you check preload?

I found the thread on pre-load

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=396122

Cool. Thanks!

Ok so I found a wastegate actuator today...got it from some guy here in town that had a blown 14b.....is there any way for me to test it before I put it on the turbo?

I don't usually test them, aside from pulling on the actuator rod to ensure that the spring is still good. It should take a good effort to pull it out. If you wanted to, you could put some air pressure on it and see what pressure it takes to start it moving, and make sure it's not leaking through/past the diaphram (air would come out the hole the rod comes out of if the diamphram is damaged).

How should I put the air pressure into it...air compressor maybe?

Yes.

You could try blowing into it. But yes, I think an air compressor would make it easier. Just set the regulator to 20 psi before connecting it.

Well I am just about finished installing the turbo...I was going to port out the turbo and exhaust manifold but decided against it for now because the manifold has a small crack on the inside...so it looks like its time for an upgrade on that =).....does everyone here pretty much agree that the evo III manifold would probably be the best? I will post again after I get a test drive as well but the dang down pipe has a huge hole in it where it mounts right under the manifold....so I have to get it welded tomarrow before I can put it back on....dont really feel like running pretty much open exhaust...

So the install is completed after a long night....The car feels very strong...it doesnt feel that much faster but thats probably because I have the boost set at 14psi....The check engine light came on though and there is a strange noise that I havent heard before in lower speeds....not sure what it is but I am going to get it scanned tomarrow to see what the CEL is for...

boost leak test boost leak test boost leak test. I sleep next to my boost leak tester.

(no not really, but it's important enough that we all should)

I am still learning a lot as I go here....would my boost still be reading what it should if there was a boost leak? I thought that if there was a leak I would be able to notice it on the gauge....

nope, your turbo compensates for the air loss by overspinning the turbo. The turbo works harder to make the same boost, it's hotter air, and you lose a ton of metered air making you run rich which throws a whole new set of problems at the car.

You won't notice it on the gauge unless it's a gaping hole. Boost leaks can make even the fastest DSM's barely move. That's why testing for them is so important.

Oh ok....thanks...that makes sense....I know there is a write up on how to make a tester....I did a search for it...does anyone happen to have it saved anywhere?

www.vfaq.com

misc/boost leak tester

I hope I am not retarded...because I looked there today because I thought it was on there...and I just double checked...but I am not seeing it....

what the hell? You're right it's not linked anymore. Heres the link.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Awesome thanks.....I really did feel retarded that I couldnt find it....I guess I should have looked under the intake section under the intercooler pipe section....

It's still linked in Vfaq, its just moved. Intake>Intake leak testor :thumbsup:

It's still linked in Vfaq, its just moved. Intake>Intake leak testor :thumbsup:

see when they do shit like that it just confuses me. I've almost memorized the damn vfaq. :lol:

Thats what I am sayin....Dang designers always changing shit....but anyways I should be able to make that thing this weekend and test it out....After driving the car a little more and actually having the chance to get on it...the car does feel a lot faster....I think I was just really out of it from not sleeping that night....