Blow'n dash fuse

97' Blazer, 128k miles. I was drive'n along on the freeway when all of a sudden the speedometer pinned at 100 miles per hr and the tach went off along with all of the gauges. And the dome lights stay on constantly now also. Here are some other symptoms: I am blowing the fuse for the gauges, 10 amp. I cannot get the dome light to go off unless I pull the fuse. When I turn the head lights on, the courtesy {key in the ignition} sound goes off, regardless if the door is closed or not. Any ideas on where to start on finding this problem would be much appreciated!! Can I do some sort of process of elimination? Thanks for the help.

97' Blazer, 128k miles. I was drive'n along on the freeway when all of a sudden the speedometer pinned at 100 miles per hr and the tach went off along with all of the gauges. And the dome lights stay on constantly now also. Here are some other symptoms: I am blowing the fuse for the gauges, 10 amp. I cannot get the dome light to go off unless I pull the fuse. When I turn the head lights on, the courtesy {key in the ignition} sound goes off, regardless if the door is closed or not. Any ideas on where to start on finding this problem would be much appreciated!! Can I do some sort of process of elimination? Thanks for the help.

Gauge fuse no 4.
Start unpluging or looking for something not working right or shorted out .
Dome light may be a clue but not sure. Check the interier light module for short.
The AC, DLR, and with 4 wheel T case and front axel and switches and air bags and insturment panel and rear defoger ,fuel level sensor ,remote door lock all are on that circuit.
Take your pick .
Have you added a new raido CD/tape player or any other add on?

MT

I had similar promblems on my 97. I found that i needed to replace the driver side door pin and then put some tape on the door, so the pin will strike the door. The pin wasnt touching the door so i had to get creative. Thats for the dome. As far as the speedo of u may wanna let of the gas, blazer arnent ment for that. LOL Mine has done that once or twice to, But m blazer will stall on mee when it does. Leading to the ignition switch. So that could be a problem.

MT-2500, is the speedometer electrical or cable fed? Will it automatically return to zero on it's own or do I need to turn it upside down? Thanks. Will take a look at those other possibilities too. Thanks much.

You know MT-2500..........I was just think'n. I did just get done replacing the front axles two days ago. Anything there that I maybe did wrong and cause a short? I have not added a new radio or add on either. The axles are the only recent thing I have done. I am still going to persue the other possibilities yet as well. Stay tuned.............and thanks for the help.

You know MT-2500..........I was just think'n. I did just get done replacing the front axles two days ago. Anything there that I maybe did wrong and cause a short? I have not added a new radio or add on either. The axles are the only recent thing I have done. I am still going to persue the other possibilities yet as well. Stay tuned.............and thanks for the help.
Front axel may be a good place to start then.
Speedometer is electric. Unhook battery and or whack it see it returns.
Check all or unplug all wiring and actuater motor and swirches on front axel.
Good luck MT

Ok check this out. I pulled the fuse letter "A" on the fuse block which is a 20amp PWR ACCY. The dome light now works properly. Is that fuse, or is it a breaker, bad? Or another idea? Thanks.

Ok here is the latest. The short seems to be in the indicator switch for the four wheel drive and the remote function actuation module. What does that indicator switch do anyways. 4 wheel drive seems to engauge and disengauge and the light lights up when in 2 wheel drive and when in 4 wheel drive.

Ok here is the latest. The short seems to be in the indicator switch for the four wheel drive and the remote function actuation module. What does that indicator switch do anyways. 4 wheel drive seems to engauge and disengauge and the light lights up when in 2 wheel drive and when in 4 wheel drive.

It switches the module.
Private e mail me with your e Mail add And I can send you a pdf on wiring.
MT

I have a 95 Jimmy with the same identical problems as gmb... described. However the next day I replaced the fuse and everything worked ... except the speedometer was still pegged over 100 mph. I tried the "tapping" with the battery cable removed and decided to remove the instrument cluster. Not fun but not too difficult. Once I had all the plastic removed and was to the cluster, I removed the clear plastic cover to expose the face of the cluster and gently rolled the speedometer indicator back to zero. I then installed enough plastic to test drive and make sure the everything worked, which it did for about 10 minutes, at that point it blew another fuse and that is where I am at currently. Anyone with more information would sure be helpful ... and if I solve the problem I'll be sure to post what I found and how I came to find it. This is a wonderful sight with great info for all.

I have a 95 Jimmy with the same identical problems as gmb... described. However the next day I replaced the fuse and everything worked ... except the speedometer was still pegged over 100 mph. I tried the "tapping" with the battery cable removed and decided to remove the instrument cluster. Not fun but not too difficult. Once I had all the plastic removed and was to the cluster, I removed the clear plastic cover to expose the face of the cluster and gently rolled the speedometer indicator back to zero. I then installed enough plastic to test drive and make sure the everything worked, which it did for about 10 minutes, at that point it blew another fuse and that is where I am at currently. Anyone with more information would sure be helpful ... and if I solve the problem I'll be sure to post what I found and how I came to find it. This is a wonderful sight with great info for all.


Is it a 4 wheel/
Which fuse no is blowing?
Have you added anything extra? Raido stero or any add ons?
What all quits when fuse blows?
Or anything not working right?
MT

yes it is a 4WD ... it is the same fuse as the Blazer #4 and it HAD notice HAD all the same symtoms ... I traced the wires using your list above and found that when I had changed the power steering pump I had moved a small set of wires and they had grounded to the exhust manifold. Once I removed the casing and cleaned up and heat shrinked the exposed wires I had no more trouble. It appeared that the damaged wires went to the crank position sensor. Thanks for your help in your earlier post ... it got me on the right track. --- Mark

Ok here is the latest. The short seems to be in the indicator switch for the four wheel drive and the remote function actuation module. What does that indicator switch do anyways. 4 wheel drive seems to engauge and disengauge and the light lights up when in 2 wheel drive and when in 4 wheel drive.

Gmbwrenchn
I am sorry.
I got lost somewhere on the E mails.
What fuse is blowing?
Does it only blow on the ground pin 13 code check?
Is everything else working now?
MT

Ok check this out. I pulled the fuse letter "A" on the fuse block which is a 20amp PWR ACCY. The dome light now works properly. Is that fuse, or is it a breaker, bad? Or another idea? Thanks.

Your e mails are not coming threw good for some reason..
Reply back here.
Check the picture in this link and make sure it is pin 13 on the diagnostic connector that you are grounding.
If it is blowing the fuse when grounding that pin.
Unplug all motors and actuaters and switches and check all wiring and see if fuse still blows.
What fuse is it blowing and does it work or shift any.
You may have to get a scanner on it and try checking with a scanner.
Or last but not least get a short finder and trace down the short.
MT

It was fuse # 4 that is blowing. It will ONLY BLOW IF I HAVE THE REMOTE
FUNCTION ACTION MODULE AND THE INDICATOR SWITCH, ON THE FRONT, AXLE HOOKED
UP, AND TURNING THE KEY TO "ON". Now if I disconnect these items, the fuse
will not blow and the remote door locks will not work.Everything else seems
to be fine.{Yes I have disconnected the door locks seperatly and the problem
still exists.} Can that module go bad ? Like I had said in one of our
earlier talks, I had recently replaced the front axles, I was driving along
the freeway, everything was working fine for 2 days, then all of a sudden,
the dash gages stopped working and the dome light stayed on and fuse #4
blew.

It was fuse # 4 that is blowing. It will ONLY BLOW IF I HAVE THE REMOTE
FUNCTION ACTION MODULE AND THE INDICATOR SWITCH, ON THE FRONT, AXLE HOOKED
UP, AND TURNING THE KEY TO "ON". Now if I disconnect these items, the fuse
will not blow and the remote door locks will not work.Everything else seems
to be fine.{Yes I have disconnected the door locks seperatly and the problem
still exists.} Can that module go bad ? Like I had said in one of our
earlier talks, I had recently replaced the front axles, I was driving along
the freeway, everything was working fine for 2 days, then all of a sudden,
the dash gages stopped working and the dome light stayed on and fuse #4
blew.

Can you disconnect the remote function or door lock action module?
Also remember the 97 is famous for the ign switch problem.
I will do some more looking on it but I am running out of ideas fast.
MT

Can That REMOTE ACTUATION MODULE BE BAD? ANY WAY TO TEST IT FOR NORMAL OPERATION?

like I've said, when I DISCONNECT THE MODULE, everything works fine except the auto door locks do NOT work. CAN THAT MODULE GO BAD????

like I've said, when I DISCONNECT THE MODULE, everything works fine except the auto door locks do NOT work. CAN THAT MODULE GO BAD????

Bingo on that

If everything works but door locks with it unpluged and it is not blowing fuses the problem is in it or its circuit.
Remember a lot of stuff hooked up to it to.
The only real good way to test it with a full function body scanner or like Honda's pcm test substitute a known good one.

MT

ok, where can I get a Honda pcm test substitute or full function body scanner ?

ok, where can I get a Honda pcm test substitute or full function body scanner ?

A good dealer or repair shop unless you want to spend a arm and leg.
3 to 5K for the good ones and another 1k year for updates.
I do not quite a Honda pcm would fit but subsitute a know good is there idea on testing. :grinyes: :rofl: :lol:
Might be a good idea if you had a good supply of good ones.

If a module is shorting out. first unplug everything it feeds power to.

Also tool places have short finders that will led you to what ever is shorted.
Snap on and mac/ mato should have them.
MT

ok, where can I get a Honda pcm test substitute or full function body scanner ?

I e mailed you 3 more wiring PDF on it.
It looks like the remote function actuator module feeds power to body computer on orange wire.
How many wires did you find on the plug in for remote function actuator module?

Looks like we really need to look at the vacuum actuator and the shift shaft cable. 1) How is that cable activated? I know by vacuum but what controls it's funtion? I put the Blazer up on all 4 wheels off the ground, and put it in drive. I activated 4 wheel drive hi and low. Both engage. What is the purpose of this vacuum operater shift cable which goes into the carrier assembly? It does NOT seem to be working. If the 4 wheel drive is working, what does this thing suppose to do?

Guys, it is a 1997....

REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH!

I don't buy it.........it's something else. This thing just happens to "flip out" right after I did the front axles. Taking it in tomorrow, I've had enough of banging my head against the wall trying to figure this one out. Will report back on results.

I don't buy it.........it's something else. This thing just happens to "flip out" right after I did the front axles. Taking it in tomorrow, I've had enough of banging my head against the wall trying to figure this one out. Will report back on results.

Then you keep right on going chasing that white rabbit.

It is a 1997, it has a faulty ignition switch that will short out and blow fuses and cause numerous problems.

Then you keep right on going chasing that white rabbit.

It is a 1997, it has a faulty ignition switch that will short out and blow fuses and cause numerous problems.

I gotta agree with you on this one BLT. These ignition switches can take you places that you never dreamed of. Anything connected to the ignition switch can start winking out when the switch goes bad, and no two are the same.

It was the indicator switch............ignition switch is fine. Oh well. The rabbit is back in the cage.

It was the indicator switch............ignition switch is fine. Oh well. The rabbit is back in the cage.

Any chance you might elaborate on the fix? :grinyes:

Who found it and how?

I guess it was as simple as the indicator switch was bad. Local garage replaced the switch. Said it was bad. $17 switch, $50 labor. Figures....... it was that simple after I ripped half the car apart to look for the short. Oh well.....as many things I've have fixed myself I'm still ahead in saving myself labor cost on things. I'll eat the $67 bucks.