Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
ArticCatBill
07-04-2006, 02:47 PM
2001 Dodge Grand Caravan sway bar replacement
Hi, our 2001 Grand caravan was suffering from the clunk clunk front end noise. It was pretty easy to diagnose as the sway bar. Simply rocking it back and forth with your hand on a sway bar link and you could feel the thump in the bar.
I replaced the links first, and it helped, but it did remain.
While looking at this forum I did not find details on replacing the bushings, so I thought I would write it up while fresh in my mind.
Tools needed, 15mm socket and ratchet, 15mm wrench, a 15mm deep well socket is convenient for the passengers side, not much help in the drivers side. I would suggest putting the van up on a good set of ramps, and hitting the bolts with a little penetrating oil. The Haynes manual talks about dropping the suspension cradle, which would be necessary to remove the sway bar, but you can replace the bushings without dropping the cradle. I purchased bushings with slits in them, I believe they also make them without slits but you would need to remove the links and push them in from the end.
On each side of the sway bar underneath the van is a bracket with one bolt, the upper end of the bracket locks into a slot. I started on the passenger side since it was the easier of the 2 and I could see what was going on. Simply remove the bolt and bracket, it is easier to slide the bushing down the bar and remove it then. Snap the new bushing back on the bar, I found it easier to insert a socket into the slit in the bushing then pop it on the sway bar since the socket helped hold it open. If you need a little lubrication do not use any petroleum based lubricant since it will soften the bushings. I used some Crisco since it is vegetable based. I believe them make lubricant specifically for this, but didn’t have any handy.
Slide the bushing back up into place and put the bracket and bolt in place, and tighten them down.
The drivers’ side is a little more challenging just because of the ABS pump in place, it isn’t that bad just a bit of a PIA. I could get the ratchet with a regular socket on the head of the bolt, and a wrench on the nut and get about 2 clicks at a time. They are long winded bolts so it took a while but it is just annoying more than anything.
Once I got it all back together, no clunk. Thank goodness it was driving me crazy. I few posts our here said they did it in 30 minutes, it took me that long to get the one bolt off and on LOL, but it isn’t that bad, probably took me about an hour and a half. Fourteen dollars for bushings and 1½ hours was worth it. As I said I also did the links first. Ours is a 2001 grand caravan AWD but I suspect most of the newer models are similar. Good luck.
Hi, our 2001 Grand caravan was suffering from the clunk clunk front end noise. It was pretty easy to diagnose as the sway bar. Simply rocking it back and forth with your hand on a sway bar link and you could feel the thump in the bar.
I replaced the links first, and it helped, but it did remain.
While looking at this forum I did not find details on replacing the bushings, so I thought I would write it up while fresh in my mind.
Tools needed, 15mm socket and ratchet, 15mm wrench, a 15mm deep well socket is convenient for the passengers side, not much help in the drivers side. I would suggest putting the van up on a good set of ramps, and hitting the bolts with a little penetrating oil. The Haynes manual talks about dropping the suspension cradle, which would be necessary to remove the sway bar, but you can replace the bushings without dropping the cradle. I purchased bushings with slits in them, I believe they also make them without slits but you would need to remove the links and push them in from the end.
On each side of the sway bar underneath the van is a bracket with one bolt, the upper end of the bracket locks into a slot. I started on the passenger side since it was the easier of the 2 and I could see what was going on. Simply remove the bolt and bracket, it is easier to slide the bushing down the bar and remove it then. Snap the new bushing back on the bar, I found it easier to insert a socket into the slit in the bushing then pop it on the sway bar since the socket helped hold it open. If you need a little lubrication do not use any petroleum based lubricant since it will soften the bushings. I used some Crisco since it is vegetable based. I believe them make lubricant specifically for this, but didn’t have any handy.
Slide the bushing back up into place and put the bracket and bolt in place, and tighten them down.
The drivers’ side is a little more challenging just because of the ABS pump in place, it isn’t that bad just a bit of a PIA. I could get the ratchet with a regular socket on the head of the bolt, and a wrench on the nut and get about 2 clicks at a time. They are long winded bolts so it took a while but it is just annoying more than anything.
Once I got it all back together, no clunk. Thank goodness it was driving me crazy. I few posts our here said they did it in 30 minutes, it took me that long to get the one bolt off and on LOL, but it isn’t that bad, probably took me about an hour and a half. Fourteen dollars for bushings and 1½ hours was worth it. As I said I also did the links first. Ours is a 2001 grand caravan AWD but I suspect most of the newer models are similar. Good luck.
FRANKENCAMRY
11-01-2006, 10:43 PM
Just replaced the sway bar bushings on a 2003 T&C and have some more tips:
The ABS pump (which is in the way on the driver's side as mentioned by ArticCatBill) is attached to the suspension cradle by to 10mm bolts. If you remove one bolt and loosen the other the pump can be pivoted to create more room to get at the bushing bracket bolt.
Even with the pump pivoted I still had to put the car on a stand and take off the wheel to get better access. Once you do this it is best to disconnect the link from the sway bar. Otherwise you really have to manhandle the bar to get it back in place once you're re-attaching the bushing bracket.
The ABS pump (which is in the way on the driver's side as mentioned by ArticCatBill) is attached to the suspension cradle by to 10mm bolts. If you remove one bolt and loosen the other the pump can be pivoted to create more room to get at the bushing bracket bolt.
Even with the pump pivoted I still had to put the car on a stand and take off the wheel to get better access. Once you do this it is best to disconnect the link from the sway bar. Otherwise you really have to manhandle the bar to get it back in place once you're re-attaching the bushing bracket.
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