Beginners Tips!

Hey guys I am new here and need some advice. I have been reading over the forms here and was wondering a few things. First just so you guys know my Cavalier is a 1998 2.4 L DOHC pretty much stock, the only thing I have changed is the intake, to a straight pipe with a K&N filter on it. I have been thinking about boosting it but I have heard bad things about the Cavi’s engine not being able to handle a lot of extra power and sending pistons threw the wall of the block. Any information on my engine that would be helpful for me to know would be great. I would also like to know the following:


What is the pacesetter head that is the best for the Cavi 2.4 DOHC?
Is it worth it to change the fly wheel, and pulley system and what type of gain should I expect and what is the best names to go for?
What will a clutch kit do and what is the differences between a stage 1,2,3,etc, what are the pros and const of each stage and what is the best names to go for?

Well as far as the header goes, Pacesetter makes a black painted header and a ceramic coated header, they might make a polished one but im not too sure and too lazy to look right now. You don't want the black one, spend the extra money and go with the ceramic one. Also, they only make a 4-1 header for the z24, no 4-2-1's. I'm in the same boat as you, 98 Z with an intake, only I have a front strut bar.

Is the front strut bar for added integrity? It would make sense if your engine starts putting out more power you are going to have to change shocks, struts so you can handle the extra power, I think that is what the different clutches do too. But I’m not to sure about this i have jsut been getting more into performance modding and my knowledge of cars is entry level at best :P so expect a lot of questions from me lol.

try here for the header..http://www.turbotechracing.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=156

The strut bar was on it when I bought it, but I bought a better one and a rear one for my 2.2 and it makes taking corners a dream, i'm tellin ya, front and rear strut bars and the car lowered, holy hell it makes turning ALOT less wobbly, it was great.

I would go here for pretty much everything. www.jtuners.com (http://www.jtuners.com) the clutches and flywheels are under drivetrain.

I would go here for pretty much everything. www.jtuners.com (http://www.jtuners.com/) the clutches and flywheels are under drivetrain.
Yea I was looking at that site but to be honest I am a nub at this, I know the basics about the cars so I was wondering if you guys could help me to decide what will be the best for my car. IE: Is it really worth it for me to get a stage 5 clutch kit, what will it do to help me race and what are the side affects if any? And I know the fly wheel in that site is lighter then the stock one but what types of gains will I get from it and what are some problems that I may encounter with it, there must be a reason why the stock one is so heavy.

The strut bar was on it when I bought it, but I bought a better one and a rear one for my 2.2 and it makes taking corners a dream, i'm tellin ya, front and rear strut bars and the car lowered, holy hell it makes turning ALOT less wobbly, it was great.
What is a good brand name to go with, or does it really matter. Oh how much did you lower your car by?

Stage 1 - A Stage 1 clutch is a great upgrade from stock for street use. Stage 1 clutches include a metal backed / organic faced disk.

Stage 2 - Stage 2 clutches are recommended for mildly upgraded vehicles with a power adder. A segmented Kevlar disk is used on the Stage 2 clutch kits.

Stage 2+ - For all modified engines making more torque than the stage 2 can support. Maintains stage 2 feel for good daily drivability and offers very good wear characteristics, but provides a higher torque capacity. High clamp pressure plate, composite multi-friction carbon-kevlar material, high torque sprung hub and disc assembly, bearing and tool kit.

Stage 3 - Stage 3 clutches come with a sprung center disk with pads. The disk pads are a carbon/ceramic combination. The ULTIMATE STREET/STRIP CLUTCH! Sharp but smooth engagement with light pedal.

Stage 3+ - Features a streetable high clamp pressure plate and full face carbon semi-metallic disc. Listed as an upgrade to the stage 3, it offers torque capacities more comparable to the stage 5 but with drivability equal to, and in some cases better than, the stage 3. The high capacity and excellent drivability characteristics of this clutch is a result of years of research and development for this SPEC exclusive disc compound.

Stage 4 - Stage 4 clutches are not recommended for street use due to their aggressive nature. A rigid disk and carrier are used in combination with your choice of Kevlar, carbon or ceramic pads.

Stage 5 - Stage 5 clutch kits contain high-clamp load pressure plate, iron disc, bearings and a tool. Extremely aggressive.

Stage 1 - A Stage 1 clutch is a great upgrade from stock for street use. Stage 1 clutches include a metal backed / organic faced disk.

Stage 2 - Stage 2 clutches are recommended for mildly upgraded vehicles with a power adder. A segmented Kevlar disk is used on the Stage 2 clutch kits.

Stage 2+ - For all modified engines making more torque than the stage 2 can support. Maintains stage 2 feel for good daily drivability and offers very good wear characteristics, but provides a higher torque capacity. High clamp pressure plate, composite multi-friction carbon-kevlar material, high torque sprung hub and disc assembly, bearing and tool kit.

Stage 3 - Stage 3 clutches come with a sprung center disk with pads. The disk pads are a carbon/ceramic combination. The ULTIMATE STREET/STRIP CLUTCH! Sharp but smooth engagement with light pedal.

Stage 3+ - Features a streetable high clamp pressure plate and full face carbon semi-metallic disc. Listed as an upgrade to the stage 3, it offers torque capacities more comparable to the stage 5 but with drivability equal to, and in some cases better than, the stage 3. The high capacity and excellent drivability characteristics of this clutch is a result of years of research and development for this SPEC exclusive disc compound.

Stage 4 - Stage 4 clutches are not recommended for street use due to their aggressive nature. A rigid disk and carrier are used in combination with your choice of Kevlar, carbon or ceramic pads.

Stage 5 - Stage 5 clutch kits contain high-clamp load pressure plate, iron disc, bearings and a tool. Extremely aggressive.

So would going with a stage 3 or a 4 b overkill, even if i was planing on putting a turbo or super on in the future?

What is a good brand name to go with, or does it really matter. Oh how much did you lower your car by?
Me and Cody both lowered our cars with the same set up, Eibach Prokit 1.6" drop with KYB AGX adjustable struts/shocks. Apparently it's the best drop set up for jbodies.

If you're gonna get a strut bar, ya gotta go with both front & rear to get the most results, I got mine from here @ Turbo Tech Racing, because they have a front & rear combo, if you get the combo you save about $20. As for brand name, I would definitely go with Vibrant, stront braces, relatively cheap price compared to others, good quality, they look alot cooler then other brands and very bright colors that stand out, Here's the ones on my 2.2...
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/PropsRI/840923_69.jpghttp://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/PropsRI/840923_70.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/PropsRI/840923_71.jpghttp://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/PropsRI/840923_72.jpg

And I know the fly wheel in that site is lighter then the stock one but what types of gains will I get from it and what are some problems that I may encounter with it, there must be a reason why the stock one is so heavy.

ok as far as the flywheel goes the stock one is so heavy and large that it takes alot of power to rotate it. thus losing horsepower to the wheels. with an aluminum flywheel, its so much lighter and smaller that all that extra horsepower is sent to the wheels instead of rotating it. and if your going to replace the flywheel i recommend that you also swap the clutch as well.

So would going with a stage 3 or a 4 b overkill, even if i was planing on putting a turbo or super on in the future?no i dont think that stage 3 would be over kill. especially if your going to boost it in the future.

If I lower my car do I have to also change the rims or tires, currently I have stock ones. Can I lower the car and change the tires later? And would going with a stage 4 clutch kit be over kill because the price difference between a stage 3 and 4 is not much I may just pay a bit extra for it.

If I lower my car do I have to also change the rims or tires, currently I have stock ones. Can I lower the car and change the tires later? And would going with a stage 4 clutch kit be over kill because the price difference between a stage 3 and 4 is not much I may just pay a bit extra for it.no you dont have to change your wheels and tires if you lower the car. but adding new wheels and tires wont hurt. you could always add them later. and i would probably stick with a stage 3.

no you dont have to change your wheels and tires if you lower the car. but adding new wheels and tires wont hurt. you could always add them later. and i would probably stick with a stage 3.

Yea but I just spent 800 on new rubber for the car lol so that’s the last thing I want to change at this point. :p

Yea but I just spent 800 on new rubber for the car lol so that’s the last thing I want to change at this point. :pwhat $800 in rubber for your stock rims? man am i glad i have connections when it comes to tires lol

what $800 in rubber for your stock rims? man am i glad i have connections when it comes to tires lol
yea thats only 800 CAD so its not as much as you probably think.

yea thats only 800 CAD so its not as much as you probably think.

i spent 223 on my 16" rim tires..... 35 of those us dollars were shipping. how much does that translate to in canada?

i spent 223 on my 16" rim tires..... 35 of those us dollars were shipping. how much does that translate to in canada?thats about $250 bucks and $800 canadian is about $711 american

thats about $250 bucks and $800 canadian is about $711 american
ok then for that money he better be getting Z-rated runflats that fly and walk on water

ok then for that money he better be getting Z-rated runflats that fly and walk on waterhaha lol well hopefully they were good tires.

Hey are bfgoodrich g-force sport tires worth the money?

umm im really not sure. you might want to ask CRJ (classicrocjunkie) about this one. seems to know alot when it comes to good tires.

you have to factor in that its just a cavalier. you spent more on tires than i spent on my car. more than twice as much actually

you have to factor in that its just a cavalier. you spent more on tires than i spent on my car. more than twice as much actuallygrant it he spent ALOT in my opinon on tires, but at least they should last a long time hopefully lol

you have to factor in that its just a cavalier.
:werd: You'd never be able to push those to their potential in a Cavalier. Get something cheaper.

:werd: You'd never be able to push those to their potential in a Cavalier. Get something cheaper.

=D He might want to keep them for his next car, altho it doesnt make sense to put them on the stock wheels, but hey, least they are good tires.

[quote=MrR0b0t0 altho it doesnt make sense to put them on the stock wheels, but hey, least they are good tires.[/quote]now thats what im saying :)

4-2-1 headers u can get for z24s go to aempower.com and go to dcsports i think they are coming out soon soon :D

dont know why that last post is in this forum but ya i got RTX 17" rims and daytona hr 245/35/17... for 400$ wit hthe rims and rubber but yes they are sort of hot :D the stuff was all brand new :)

:werd: You'd never be able to push those to their potential in a Cavalier. Get something cheaper.

are you serious? you could push 'em to potential on a school bus!! always talkin smack about cavaliers. you need to come to ontario where I guy i know named Scott had a 2.4 sunfire running 505 whp at 22psi boost. You don't need DSM or anything of the likes to enjoy a car that can be made to handle well. Shame you're not nearby I could show you how a cavalier can handle on a set of Hercules tires which are cheap shit.

they make your car handle better and g-forces are worth the money and they wont last longer because they are softer. Good tires are one of the best upgrades with regards to handling!


Also there is no point installing a lightened flywheel if you've done little else, it's drive like crap and you'll hate yourself. a flywheel uses it's inertia to keep the engine running under load so that when you engage the clutch it doesn't just stop and if you reduce the weight you have to increase the revs you need to pull away and you will stall it pulling away more than you ever have. Also a higher spec cluth will make it harder to drive as they have increased spring rates on the pressure plate and are usually snappy and increase the chance of stalling even further. You wont gain that much power form a flywheel on a near stock motor anyhow. 2.4s handle boost fine, I know a guy that was running 15psi on stock internals and used to beat on it and it didn't die. But now he's haveing a fully boost worthy crate 2.4 put in which should be able to take him easily past 20psi. Most problems on 2.4 have been due to tuning, but with some ford brown top injectors an innovate wideband O2 and the HP tuners pcm tuner you can get past that. HP tuners only just release the program for j-bodys so everyone was using things like the Apexi FMC II. If you still want to avoid boost, do a "secret cam" swap, H.O. intake manifold and TB, Pulleys wont do shit on a 2.4, header, hi-flow cat, and cat back. You could have the head shaved/planed/milled whatever you want to call it to increase the compression ration and you can get some neutralized balance shafts from www.jbodyperformance.com which will help, rmoving or disabling them mean you have to switch oiling systems and that's a p.i.t.a. If you wanted to get further into it, build the bottm end with lightened & nitrided crank, I-beam lightened rods and hi comp pistons with the aofrmentioned mods and you'll be running sweet numbers

haha lol well hopefully they were good tires. Yea they were good tires unfortunately I do not have connections when it comes to tires lol. But if you were wondering they were BF Goodrich G-force Tires.


are you serious? you could push 'em to potential on a school bus!! always talkin smack about cavaliers. you need to come to ontario where I guy i know named Scott had a 2.4 sunfire running 505 whp at 22psi boost. You don't need DSM or anything of the likes to enjoy a car that can be made to handle well. Shame you're not nearby I could show you how a cavalier can handle on a set of Hercules tires which are cheap shit.

Are you talking the ecotec engin or the other one?

Yea they were good tires unfortunately I do not have connections when it comes to tires lol. But if you were wondering they were BF Goodrich G-force Tires.



Are you talking the ecotec engin or the other one?


Not ecotec. 2.4 LD9 twin cam

Yea they were good tires unfortunately I do not have connections when it comes to tires lol. But if you were wondering they were BF Goodrich G-force Tires.



Are you talking the ecotec engin or the other one?


Not ecotec. 2.4 LD9 twin cam

are you serious? you could push 'em to potential on a school bus!! always talkin smack about cavaliers. you need to come to ontario where I guy i know named Scott had a 2.4 sunfire running 505 whp at 22psi boost. You don't need DSM or anything of the likes to enjoy a car that can be made to handle well. Shame you're not nearby I could show you how a cavalier can handle on a set of Hercules tires which are cheap shit.
Uh huh :rolleyes:. Theres no way a 120 wheel hp car thats speed limited at what, 107 is going to fully push a good set of tires, especially on his stock suspension. Goofy body roll and weight transfer will make him lose control far before he'll lose it due to not enough traction from some more reasonably priced tires. I know a Cavalier can handle, handling mods are the only ones done to my Cavalier (yes, my Cavalier). I can talk crap about a car if I want, this is a open forum and unfortunately for people whose feelings get hurt easily, they may get another view of the situation. I once was too a completely ignorant noob, I wish someone would have given me a good kick earlier and made me realize that unless I seriously layed out for this car, it wasnt going to be what I wanted it to be. If people read my posts and realize they dont have the time or the money (think about all of the damn engine swaps J body guys seem to be so eager to do) to go through with it and change their plans, then I just saved them some time and money before they realized part way through the project they couldnt do it. If they read it, think "Fuck that guy." and go do it, they more power to them. I am just here to give those a reality shock that need one.

And having 505 hp at 22 psi doesnt mean jack shit about how it handles :loser:.

EDIT: I just did some looking. I am 98% sure I have 215/45/17's on my rims. They are Tyoy Proxes 4's and were $75 a piece shipped from some place I cant remember, but they were having a big going out of business sale. Well, I just looked on Tire Rack at their ratings and shit. The ones he was asking about were $95 for the aforementioned size, which was pretty good, much less than I thought it would be. Well, those BFGoodriches were ranked at 4 of 47 in the "Ultra Hight Performance Summer Tire" section or whatever the hell they are in. So I looked for the highest ones. A set of General tires. They were rated higher overall and the costed $74 for the said size. I am not against modding Cavaliers, but there are cheaper ways and in this case, a overall higher rated tire for about 80% of the price.

I once was too a completely ignorant noob, .

HA HA you're funny.

Also if what you are saying was correct then any j-bodys or even say neons that were ever raced in showroom stock classes (where you can use any tire as long as it has one groove 8mm deep) wouldn't bother and would keep the stock good year eagle RS-A's but they don't they use Toyo or Hankook. Weird that! on SHOWROOM stock. The tire ratings on a those websites are by people that bought them. That doesn't make them accurate as the people that bought Generals bought them for different reasons than those who bought BFGs. Tires are the biggest part of a cars handling. you can put 13" rotors on a car, you can dump $10,00 in suspension but you need good tires or it's all a waste of money. And if he spends $20 more per tire than General Exclaim P.O.Ss then that was his choice. Would you prefer he spent that $80 difference on some underglow?

HA HA you're funny.

Also if what you are saying was correct then any j-bodys or even say neons that were ever raced in showroom stock classes (where you can use any tire as long as it has one groove 8mm deep) wouldn't bother and would keep the stock good year eagle RS-A's but they don't they use Toyo or Hankook. Weird that! on SHOWROOM stock. The tire ratings on a those websites are by people that bought them. That doesn't make them accurate as the people that bought Generals bought them for different reasons than those who bought BFGs. Tires are the biggest part of a cars handling. you can put 13" rotors on a car, you can dump $10,00 in suspension but you need good tires or it's all a waste of money. And if he spends $20 more per tire than General Exclaim P.O.Ss then that was his choice. Would you prefer he spent that $80 difference on some underglow?


hey its his money, he can eat drink fart and vomit it for all i care.


just that if the money were in my hands i'd spend it on something that lasts longer than tires do.

Also if what you are saying was correct then any j-bodys or even say neons that were ever raced in showroom stock classes (where you can use any tire as long as it has one groove 8mm deep) wouldn't bother and would keep the stock good year eagle RS-A's but they don't they use Toyo or Hankook. Weird that! on SHOWROOM stock. The tire ratings on a those websites are by people that bought them. That doesn't make them accurate as the people that bought Generals bought them for different reasons than those who bought BFGs. Tires are the biggest part of a cars handling. you can put 13" rotors on a car, you can dump $10,00 in suspension but you need good tires or it's all a waste of money. And if he spends $20 more per tire than General Exclaim P.O.Ss then that was his choice. Would you prefer he spent that $80 difference on some underglow?
:lol: Holy, did I hurt someones feelings? My bad, next time I'll just follow the herd and agree with the wise and all knowledgeful noshun. :rolleyes:

So I've got a different opinion that you. He asked if they were worth the money, I dont think so, thats my opinion. And if he wants underglow, than saving that $80 on some tires that would do the the same job probably just as well is a pretty good idea dont you think?

who said you upset me? You said you were putting your opinion accross and so was I. But when you come here and tell someone that they wasted their money on there tires. You don't have to listen to me. Shit i could give to fucks if you didn't but people come on here and read this but what you were saying just isn't true. If you look I base what I know on fact. regardless of which car anyone drives if you use an R-compound tires versus some Cheap knock-off you are going to get a car that handles better in every way and is more enjoyable to drive. It is the cheapest way to enhance a cars ahndling in the end as after all you need tires so why not buy good one. The whole reason I replied to you was because you shot csomeone down for buying decent tires. That's like me asking why you would but Filet Mignon over rump steak as your taste buds aren't developed enough to fully appreciate the flavour of the filet. He never asked if they were worth the money someone else asked about them as they were expensive. He abvioulsy made his deciscion for a reason. I could say to you why would anyone go buy Ferrari when they aren't a good enough driver to fully explore it's handling capabilities as is so often the case but they still do when they could save their money and go buy a Chrysler 300.

Haha daaaammmmm yall go forever. Anyway, I gotta support him on his decision to buy them, mostly cuz i got em too. I forgot how much they cost but from experience on the stock ones, they are better in everyway. Less road noise, better handeling, no more peel-outs (=*[), and jus tbetter traction all around. And personally, im just one of those people who buys quality stuff. I mean, I want people to look at them, and know what it is. I could get the highest rated (by probabley only one company) General Tires, but wut the hell are those??? Never heard of em so how do I know they arnt just some persons opinion on trying to sell them. Haha oh well, I never knew this could be started by tires. =P

No where did I tell anyone they wasted their money on tires, I didnt even know they bought any tires. See what I was replying to?
Hey are bfgoodrich g-force sport tires worth the money?
I agreed with Young Chuck D with this:
:werd: You'd never be able to push those to their potential in a Cavalier. Get something cheaper.
I dont think that was shooting anyone down do you? Nope, some simple advice that they asked for. In my experience, what I am saying is true and for someone thats not racing, some cheaper tires will still get him from A to B, handle just as well for spirit street driving, and not melt away so fast. I dont know why you are fighting this so hard anyway, those arent even the good shit of BFGoodrich tires. If he was a hard core auto x'er I would immediately recommend some g force t/a KDW 2's but since it seems like hes just looking for some good rubber (which those Generals are) to wrap around his rims, I recommended something cheaper.

so does any1 know where a good place to get tires are for a GOOD price?? or does every1 just have hook-ups besides me :( hah

No where did I tell anyone they wasted their money on tires, I didnt even know they bought any tires. See what I was replying to?

I agreed with Young Chuck D with this:

I dont think that was shooting anyone down do you? Nope, some simple advice that they asked for. In my experience, what I am saying is true and for someone thats not racing, some cheaper tires will still get him from A to B, handle just as well for spirit street driving, and not melt away so fast. I dont know why you are fighting this so hard anyway, those arent even the good shit of BFGoodrich tires. If he was a hard core auto x'er I would immediately recommend some g force t/a KDW 2's but since it seems like hes just looking for some good rubber (which those Generals are) to wrap around his rims, I recommended something cheaper.

you were fighting your side hard also. I can't be bothered with this anymore. He bougth some tires whtether or not her made the right choice is for him to decide

but what you just said above is not what the quote of yourself is saying!

so does any1 know where a good place to get tires are for a GOOD price?? or does every1 just have hook-ups besides me :( hahwell i have the hook-up i.e. tire shop in the city that gives me great deals on tires cuz we do work for them. lol but you could try www.tirerack.com (http://www.tirerack.com) they sell both wheels and tires.