92 climate control

On my climate control display when I first start my car the display blinks for about a minute and then stops. I also noticed that the thing goes to ecomomy every time I push the auto button and no cold air anymore. :disappoin

I'm ready for any wonderful news anyone has to offer me on why this is happening! :iceslolan

It sounds like you are low on "Freon"! The "flashing light", indicates a code is being set. Was your compressor making a noise, before it stopped working? If not, you might get by with adding some R12 or Freeze-12! I had the same problem last fall when my compressor started making a noise, so I continued to drive it through the winter without running the compressor. During spring break this year, I replaced the compressor, drier and orifice tube, did a complete system flush, evactuation and recharged with R-134a. I have been enjoying the nice, "40" deg air again this summer!

Do a search and you will find some post with details on how to reset the ACC and how to change the system over to R134. If you have any problem finding the info, let me know! One thing you might try before throwing in the towel, is to go through the ACC “reset” procedure & see if it will reset. Sometimes, in very hot conditions, the high or low-pressure switches will go out or range and set the flashing code. :smokin:

Yeap, code 66 - low on freon. Definition for code 66 = 1992 Buick Park Avenue for sale by owner.

Let's think, evac, new compressor, orfix, dryer, charge system. :crying:

Is there any other options? Can I shoot a can of whip cream in there to get it going? :grinyes:

Before you condemn the car, try to have the system “topped off” with R-12 or a shot of “Freeze 12”. Sometimes that will work, if the system has a very slow leak. If you do need to replace the compressor and associated parts, the cost is not too bad, if you do some homework up front, prior to purchasing parts. Go to several shops for a labor estimate for the complete job and then do the math. Listed below are some typical parts & labor cost that I found.

New compressor = $275.00 to $425.00.
Rebuilt compressor= $175.00 to $225.00
Accumulator/Drier= $29.00 to $39.00
Orifice tube =$2.00

Labor to install parts, flush system, evacuate & recharge with R-134a = $150.00 to $300.00
Alternatively, you could install the parts yourself and flush the evaporator, condenser and all lines, then have system evacuated & recharged at the shop = $80.00 to $100.00.

When I replaced the parts on my system, I changed everything in less than three hours, with several 15 min breaks during that time. In addition, since I am EPA 609 Certified, I was able to flush, evacuate & recharge the system using a friends shop equipment. Total investment for me was less than $325.00, including the oil and R-134a. It does not take too many 90 deg+ days, to get a return on investment on that one!:grinyes:

Is this Freeze 12 something I can buy and do? Is it the same as R-12?

Actually, nothing is exactly “the same” as R-12; however, the EPA has designated some alternative replacements as "acceptable" under the SNAP program. Choosing & Using Alternative Refrigerants for MVACs | Ozone Depletion Alternatives/SNAP | US EPA (http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/snap/refrigerants/lists/chiller.html)
Your local Pep Boys should sell Freeze 12, however you still need an EPA 609 MVAC license to purchase it.. For example, using a motor vehicle A/C refrigerant accepted under SNAP as a CFC-12 substitute requires, among other things, the use of a new label and new fittings unique to the alternative, and the CFC-12 must first be removed from the system. Note that there is no do-it-yourself (DIY) exemption from SNAP requirements. Both service technicians and DIYers who use alternatives found unacceptable under SNAP or ignore use conditions, have violated the Clean Air Act. Do not allow anyone to use the EPA “banned” replacement refrigerants listed in the above link, especially those with propane or butane blends!
:newburn:

Ok, thanks

HotZ? I switched out my alt. and battery in the 92 PA. I started it to see if all was ok and my AC is working now. I understand the climate control reset but why would it run the compressor if the system is low? The pressure switch is set at a specific limit right? I let it sit about a half hour and all was good, maybe not as cold but the one line was sweating, and the comp. cycling. My compressor cycled at 6 seconds on and 2 seconds off. Is this normal after disconnecting the batt/alt.?

It is strange how the ACC will sometimes not reset until the battery is disconnected, however, it is quite common and I have even suggested removing the battery ground terminal in previous threads as a remedy to system recovery. It has to do with the “keep alive memory” functions of the RAP and PCM. The system will appear to reset on the control panel, but not to the point of compressor cycle recovery.

You did have a fault that pointed to code 66 “low Freon”. That could be due to an “extreme condition”, such as high ambient heat & humidity that caused the system pressure to fluctuate beyond the normal operating parameters and the controller set the fault code. :screwy:

Compressor cycle time depends on many variables, such as ambient temperature, blower speed settings and temperature setting on the display. Try this; turn the temperature display setting to 60 deg and fan speed to “high”, then drive the car around during the heat of the day, while measuring the air temperature coming out of the vents. Listen for unusual compressor noise. Also, note how often the compressor is cycling off/on and report your findings here.

You may be lucky and just need a “shot” of Freon to bring the system back to operating in your hot & humid environment! Florida summers can often create “extreme conditions” with AC systems!:devil:

10-4. I'll post that tomorrow, and thanks!

I used to see the R-12 stuff listed on ebay not so long back. It worked better than the new stuff:shakehead ! My cousin in Nebraska saw the writing on the wall some years ago, and being a farmer, decided to get several cases for the farm.

My opinion is that the ban on R-12 was a crock! Volcanoes emit more harmful toxic gasses that affect ozone and other gasses and lifeforms. Ever smell a sweet smell around an old copier? Or around an old laser printer? That's ozone. Every lightning storm across the face of the earth produces tons of ozone. Our mercury light produce ozone, so do copier/fax/laser printers. Even the wine industry has ozone generating machinery for disenfection. Nothing works like the original.. R-12:2cents:

Actually, one rocket launch from “good ole” Cape Kennedy, burns off more of the Ozone layer, than all of the R-12 ever produced, if all of it was released at the same time! Yea, it is a crock and it was more than just a coincidence that the EPA banning of R-12 took place at the same time as the expiration of DuPont’s patent on R-12. :screwy:

If we place our future in the hands of Politicians, Lawyers, Wealthy Corporations, Wall Street Traders and Environmentalist, this kind of crap will continue to be shoved down our throats!:nono:

I guess, that sometime if the future, gasoline will be considered as a toxic substance, or become totally cost prohibitive. Are we going to wait until it happens, or should we stockpile alternatives and prepare for the inevitable!:uhoh:

Well enough of that subject, now we can move on to what we do have available in lieu of R-12. The link below will show some independent testing on alternative refrigerants. If you will notice, some of the alternatives perform just as well as the original “Freon” R-12! :grinyes:

Alternative Test Result Information provided by Arizona Mobile Air Inc. (http://www.ackits.com/testresults/alttest.pdf)

10-4. I'll post that tomorrow, and thanks!
:feedback:

feedback?? Ok.. looks like in your picture you're developing a bald spot. Could be from a freon burn or standing too close to a rocket launch, or sun spots.

For freon on the 92 PA, most qualified A/C and heating companies can do a charge on the car. Might cost but not the price of a new car. Or as they said in the movie "Second Hand Lion" ....just learn to do without!

:iceslolan

feedback?? Ok.. looks like in your picture you're developing a bald spot. Could be from a freon burn or standing too close to a rocket launch, or sun spots.

For freon on the 92 PA, most qualified A/C and heating companies can do a charge on the car. Might cost but not the price of a new car. Or as they said in the movie "Second Hand Lion" ....just learn to do without!
Actually, the post I was requesting feedback on was; (Cntrysthbst 10-4. I'll post that tomorrow, and thanks!):)

My receding hair line, was well earned! Back in the "good ole days", I owned a jet boat with dual air horns, powered by “R-12 Freon”. Back then, you could by a twelve pack of R-12 cans, for less than 15 bucks. When I blew the horns, at 80 MPH, the Freon would blow back in my face. I also spent a lot of time in the “sun” during that time and was totally unaware, that every time I used those big horns, I was depleting the Ozone above me! I actually did visit Cape Kennedy once, during one of the launches of the Challenger!! So I guess your assumptions may be totally correct!:smokin:

When I lived in Seattle back in the Late 1970's early 1980's I worked for Boeing. I bought a 1977 Honda Civic Hatchback and put in a dual horn under the hood, directly wired to the wire for the regular horn electrical. Sounded like a TRUCK!:grinyes: 2 girls walking home from school, seemed to quickly loose control of the books they were carrying in from of them....perhaps they were discussing Thoreau at the time of the honk.:iceslolan More than one person/vehicle sure give way to that little Civic when they encroached a little too close on mhy space. My dad HATED it when I'd pull up in his driveway in Renton and honk it while he was under the hood of some car:rolleyes:

The car was totaled in an accident that completely demolished the right side where the horns were and never got another pair. Kind of miss those horns!:frown:

.........One thing you might try before throwing in the towel, is to go through the ACC “reset” procedure & see if it will reset. Sometimes, in very hot conditions, the high or low-pressure switches will go out or range and set the flashing code. :smokin:


I would love to try this ACC reset... I have searched but cannot find the procedure for this.

Can someone let me know how to do this reset??

Thanks
Paul G

I would love to try this ACC reset... I have searched but cannot find the procedure for this.

Can someone let me know how to do this reset??

Thanks
Paul G
Paul, welcome to AF! :iceslolan
Well before asking, I did look at what kind of car you had listed in your profile and all I found was a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. If you also have a Buick, before we can answer this question, we need to know what year and if it has ACC (Auto climate control).:sunglasse

Paul, welcome to AF! :iceslolan
Well before asking, I did look at what kind of car you had listed in your profile and all I found was a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. If you also have a Buick, before we can answer this question, we need to know what year and if it has ACC (Auto climate control).:sunglasse


Sorry... its a 92 Buick Park Ave... similar to the thread starter. But the exact same symptoms... wanted to try the reset first... since I am on vaca and don;t have access to my tools, etc.

THANKS!
Paul G

When the ACC control unit starts flashing, it is storing a fault code. You may be a little low on Freon, or you could have other problems. Use the procedure below, to see if you can retrieve the codes. After resetting the codes, the compressor should cycle on. If not, try disconnecting the battery negative cable for 30 sec. That will clear any memory from the ACC & PCM.


This procedure will work on 1992 -1993 models with ATC, and may also work on 1988-1991 models.

The diagnostic mode also contains a data list mode and an override mode.

Be careful not to select modes 01 or 02, as these are different modes, and may cause problems.

If you suspect you are in the wrong mode, press OFF repeatedly until you exit to normal mode. If the temperature display flashes for 2 minutes when the ignition is turned to RUN, a trouble code is set.

1. Turn ignition to RUN. Press OFF and WARM (temperature up) buttons simultaneously. (Hold in buttons until flashing segment test begins).

2. Watch the segment test, then the trouble codes will be displayed.

3. Code Key:

00 - No codes

10 or 110 - Ambient Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.

13 or 113 - In-Vehicle Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.

15 or 115 - LH Solar Sensor circuit open or shorted.

35 or 135 - Data Line failure - HVAC Control Assembly

38 or 138 - Data Line failure - PCM

40 or 140 - Driver Air Mix Motor circuit open or shorted, or not calibrated

48 or 148 - Long Term Freon Loss

52 or 152 - Keep Alive Memory lost; sets with battery disconnected

66 or 166 - Low Freon

A number 1 prefix indicates a history trouble code

4. Press OFF twice once codes are displayed to end diagnostic mode, OR to clear trouble codes, press FAN DOWN three times (make sure 03 is displayed).

Once 03 is displayed, press FAN UP to clear trouble codes. Then repeatedly press OFF to end diagnostic mode.

Thanks HotZ28!!!!

I found that it is code 66. Low freon.

I am on vacation and have a dealer said they could charge the system for $175.00 . As long as there were no leaks.

Does that sound reasonable? $175.00 ?

Thanks again for the info.

Paul G
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Since you have R-12 in the system, it is hard to find anyone willing to evacuate, test for leaks holding a vacuum and recharge for less than $150.00. If I were you, I would call several shops that do AC work and get a second or third opinion! In addition, you might want to consider changing over to R-134a. Most shops in my area will do the complete conversion for around $150.00. It is much cheaper and easier to find R-134a than R-12.:iceslolan
Minimum requirements for converting a system to R134a. (http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=20&threadid=7927)

Since you have R-12 in the system, it is hard to find anyone willing to evacuate, test for leaks holding a vacuum and recharge for less than $150.00. If I were you, I would call several shops that do AC work and get a second or third opinion! In addition, you might want to consider changing over to R-134a. Most shops in my area will do the complete conversion for around $150.00. It is much cheaper and easier to find R-134a than R-12.:iceslolan
Minimum requirements for converting a system to R134a. (http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=20&threadid=7927)


THANKS again for the info!!

I found a place that will recharge the R-12 and fix the valve thats leaking for about $200.00.. since I'm on vacation and don't have any other transportation... thats the quickest solution.

THANKS!

It's wierd... while I was talking with the shop on the phone... my bro in law calls and says there is no AC at my house. Had someone come out and see... 28 year old unit... no parts... needs replaced... over $5 grand!!!

YEEESH!!! Whts with the AC deal!!! All when I'm on vacation!!

Paul G
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