Clutch upgrade
Allboutperspective
07-03-2006, 04:55 AM
Just had it tuned up, took it to the local drag strip turned the boost up and will not hold under WOT in the max torque RPM (4200) ranges in 3rd on up.
Looked in the http://www.stealth316.com/0-frames.htm clutch section (I love this web site) and found some descent suggestions for upgrades but wanted your expertise on some of the clutches out there for our cars.
I want something that can hold a launch slippping at max torque 4200rpms in 1st WOT for the drag strip. the 60ft is where I hurt the most since I dont want to burn this stock clutch out in one day.
But I'm also concerned about the rest of the drive train with the stronger clutch in 1st. I looked around to upgrade the trany but didnt find much... Came to find out the stock one lives in 700HP cars. T-casing scares me... I hear alot of bad stuff about these. Is there anything that can be done to upgrade this or is even considered to be a weak link?
When I replace the clutch since I'll have the drive shaft down and out would also like to replace the driveshaft carrier bearings if possible since they are showing signs of going bad. Are these worth while replacing?
Thanks for the help :smile:
Looked in the http://www.stealth316.com/0-frames.htm clutch section (I love this web site) and found some descent suggestions for upgrades but wanted your expertise on some of the clutches out there for our cars.
I want something that can hold a launch slippping at max torque 4200rpms in 1st WOT for the drag strip. the 60ft is where I hurt the most since I dont want to burn this stock clutch out in one day.
But I'm also concerned about the rest of the drive train with the stronger clutch in 1st. I looked around to upgrade the trany but didnt find much... Came to find out the stock one lives in 700HP cars. T-casing scares me... I hear alot of bad stuff about these. Is there anything that can be done to upgrade this or is even considered to be a weak link?
When I replace the clutch since I'll have the drive shaft down and out would also like to replace the driveshaft carrier bearings if possible since they are showing signs of going bad. Are these worth while replacing?
Thanks for the help :smile:
Igovert500
07-04-2006, 05:56 AM
A) check out www.3sxperformance.com, www.horsepowerfreaks.com, www.gtpro.com, www.ipsmotorsport.com and most importantly www.dynamicracing.com, and any other shops listed in the FAQ or on www.stealth316.com for clutch options.
I havn't upgraded mine yet, but plan to soon enough. There are a ton of great threads on www.3si.org/forum sign up there, it's free (just don't use a hotmail or yahoo email address to sign up), and do a search, you can find tons of great threads comparing most of the aftermarket clutch options.
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=330025&highlight=southbend
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=321770&highlight=southbend
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=313688&highlight=southbend
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=305678&highlight=southbend
There are more and better threads, I just found these in 10 seconds.
Southbend, RPS and ACT are pretty popular options, just be realistic with your hp and torque needs when choosing one. Don't go overboard with unnecessary gripping power or you will sacrifice daily driveability.
Honestly I forget if you can just replace the carrier bearings/u-joints. I think you have to replace the whole driveshaft, which causes many to just go the route of a lightweight aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft for around a grand, once their stock carrier bearings start to go.
The t-case is a weak point, more so for 91-93s, there are brackets that have been designed, and are being tested. Just keep it in mind. Check to see if it has had the recall done on it, check the fluid if you are seeing any signs of fluid leaking or having any funny business such as the wheels locking up. Judging by your other thread, you may want to take a look at it. Check stealth316, under the garage section, there is an AWD drivetrain oil change link. Basically short of changing the fluid and making sure it isn't leaking, is fixed/replaced if it does, are your only real options at this point in time. So basically don't dump the clutch a bunch from 5k+ rpms, and you should be ok for now.
I havn't upgraded mine yet, but plan to soon enough. There are a ton of great threads on www.3si.org/forum sign up there, it's free (just don't use a hotmail or yahoo email address to sign up), and do a search, you can find tons of great threads comparing most of the aftermarket clutch options.
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=330025&highlight=southbend
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=321770&highlight=southbend
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=313688&highlight=southbend
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=305678&highlight=southbend
There are more and better threads, I just found these in 10 seconds.
Southbend, RPS and ACT are pretty popular options, just be realistic with your hp and torque needs when choosing one. Don't go overboard with unnecessary gripping power or you will sacrifice daily driveability.
Honestly I forget if you can just replace the carrier bearings/u-joints. I think you have to replace the whole driveshaft, which causes many to just go the route of a lightweight aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft for around a grand, once their stock carrier bearings start to go.
The t-case is a weak point, more so for 91-93s, there are brackets that have been designed, and are being tested. Just keep it in mind. Check to see if it has had the recall done on it, check the fluid if you are seeing any signs of fluid leaking or having any funny business such as the wheels locking up. Judging by your other thread, you may want to take a look at it. Check stealth316, under the garage section, there is an AWD drivetrain oil change link. Basically short of changing the fluid and making sure it isn't leaking, is fixed/replaced if it does, are your only real options at this point in time. So basically don't dump the clutch a bunch from 5k+ rpms, and you should be ok for now.
Allboutperspective
07-04-2006, 10:24 AM
Thank you very much! :thumbsup:
Twizted_3KGT
07-04-2006, 03:47 PM
And definitely don't buy an Ebay clutch...i'm paying for that mistake right now. Lasted 2,100 miles and one trip to the track, and they don't want to warranty it.
Allboutperspective
07-04-2006, 06:48 PM
And definitely don't buy an Ebay clutch...i'm paying for that mistake right now. Lasted 2,100 miles and one trip to the track, and they don't want to warranty it.
Yeah I saw your http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=336180 post.
Lookin like the RPS MAXX is the way to go even though it looks like these aren't good to feather on. Have you seen any of these problems with the throwout bearings most of guys claim to have with after marketed clutches?
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=329757
Yeah I saw your http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=336180 post.
Lookin like the RPS MAXX is the way to go even though it looks like these aren't good to feather on. Have you seen any of these problems with the throwout bearings most of guys claim to have with after marketed clutches?
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=329757
Ralliart 3000gt
07-04-2006, 10:27 PM
I've just reconditioned my Twin plate, and aluminium flywheel. That thing isn't too bad for the road, Its realy responsive with the Aluminium flywheel. It also doesn't make that funny clapping/ratling noise that many twin/triple plates have given the fact that the center plate is bolted down. I'll get back to you on this soon.
Twizted_3KGT
07-08-2006, 01:47 AM
Have you seen any of these problems with the throwout bearings most of guys claim to have with after marketed clutches?
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=329757
It's not actually the throwout bearings, its the input shaft bearing in the transmission....it's believed that it gets damaged when removing the tranny if you let the tranny hang on it....it's still a debate so it's up in the air if thats actually true or not...but it's not just aftermarket clutches, people with stock clutches have the same problems.
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=329757
It's not actually the throwout bearings, its the input shaft bearing in the transmission....it's believed that it gets damaged when removing the tranny if you let the tranny hang on it....it's still a debate so it's up in the air if thats actually true or not...but it's not just aftermarket clutches, people with stock clutches have the same problems.
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