starter problem?

Seems like the money pit (1997 bravada) is thirsty again.
Last week, it was $120 for an alternator. So today, I go to speedway to get gas.
Turn the car off, pump, pay, get in the car. Try to start it, nothing. I do hear a click, but thats it. Car doesnt turn over.
I replaced the starter about six months ago, made a mistake and bought one from a junkyard.
Does it sound like its my starter again?

Good chance it's your solenoid contacts. See if you can buy them separately (they are cheap) and replace them without doing the whole starter thing.

Could it be my ignition switch? When I turn the key, I hear a clicking sound, and sometimes an electrical sounding hum type sound, but the hum isnt there all the time.

My lights all work fine, and my normal dummy lights on the gauge panel come on when the key is turned forward, just like normal.

Thought I would add this- today, I put in the 20amp fuse for in the fuse panel for 4x4.
It was never there, so I thought I would go ahead and put it in.
This was about 5 hours before the problem. I know it probably doesnt have anything to do with it, but thought I would mention it anyway.

If the click you're hearing is the starter relay, then you may have the solenoid contact problem. If you are hearing a click in the steering column, then I have no clue. Ignition switch is as good a point to start as any.

Make sure all your cable connections are clean and tight.

Thought I would add this- today, I put in the 20amp fuse for in the fuse panel for 4x4.
It was never there, so I thought I would go ahead and put it in.
This was about 5 hours before the problem. I know it probably doesnt have anything to do with it, but thought I would mention it anyway.



Did it start up when you jumped it? if it did, then you need to run an electrical test on the battery and alternator. That 20amp fuse you put in for the 4x4 may be the cause of the problem if your battery was low.

Remove the fuse till you find out what the problem was...

Did it start up when you jumped it? if it did, then you need to run an electrical test on the battery and alternator. That 20amp fuse you put in for the 4x4 may be the cause of the problem if your battery was low.

Remove the fuse till you find out what the problem was...


Nope, didnt start with a jump.
Just put a new alt on last week.

How can I tell if it is definitely the starter or not?

One thing you can do is tap the starter motor with a small hammer while someone turns the key to start it at the same time.

Went to autozone, payed $140 for a new starter. My buddy and I were going to put it on. He started messing with the battery terminal, and turns out my terminal is stripped out.
So I returned the starter and bought a battery. Truck starts kind of hard now, but it starts.
The thing is, I messed with the battery terminal for at least an hour over the past day, because I knew the terminal was stripped. Its been working fine for the past 5 or 6 months, ever since I last had this problem, and put a new starter on.

Im just worried that the starter had a bad spot, and Im going to have the same problems. Anyway to know FOR SURE that it was just the battery?

I am not sure what you mean by "truck starts kind of hard now but it starts"
Can you add a little more to this statement.


Mark

I am not sure what you mean by "truck starts kind of hard now but it starts"
Can you add a little more to this statement.


Mark


Just makes a "hard start" noise......sort of like its turning over a few times before starting, I guess would be the best way to describe it.

Blazers commonly start first time and I would check for a fully charged new battery and good alternator - store will do a free load test. Any battery drain like underhood or interior dome light on all night would cause a slightly lower start voltage. Then if both good move on to testing fuel pressure and if higher mileage time for that tuneup.

Blazers commonly start first time and I would check for a fully charged new battery and good alternator - store will do a free load test. Any battery drain like underhood or interior dome light on all night would cause a slightly lower start voltage. Then if both good move on to testing fuel pressure and if higher mileage time for that tuneup.


Brand new battery, two week old alternator.
No lights are left on.
Tune up was done about 2 months ago.

I guess at this point, Im wondering if theres anyway to KNOW FOR SURE that the starter is on its way out? Autozone can test them, but if its a "bad spot" will their machine say that?
I use my truck for delivery for employment, Id hate to get stuck somewhere shitty....

Autozone will test your starter to see if it spins or not, thats it. Your truck seems to be your livelyhood, You did say that the old starter was from a junk yard. When in doubt, change it out. At least then you will know for sure...

Install a test light or voltmeter temorarily to the starter terminal and verify voltage when key is turned to start. It will point either downstream or upstream if you know what I mean. It has to be acting up of course and can be exagerrated by removing coil power or some other way to disable engine from starting so that it cranks a long time.

You can also install a jumper switch on the starter posts to bypass all the other circuitry, key, swithes ect. This will also point to starter or "other" Again it must be acting up to diagnose.

Could it be my ignition switch? When I turn the key, I hear a clicking sound, and sometimes an electrical sounding hum type sound, but the hum isnt there all the time.

My lights all work fine, and my normal dummy lights on the gauge panel come on when the key is turned forward, just like normal.

Ignition switch for sure.

Best test for starter function is current draw when cranking the engine. I don't know the specs for your starter, but my personal rule of thumb is anything over 300 amps is bad. I have seen 450-amp draws from bad starters. Bad solenoid contacts are hard to diagnose for sure, but you don't have to replace the starter to replace those, just the contacts can be removed and replaced.

The cranking current sounds like the best thing to measure. What method or piece of equipment do you use to measure that current?


Mark

An induction ammeter. It surrounds the battery cable (like a loose pinch clamp) to the starter and plugs into a multimeter. You read current as millivolts.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/i1010.gif

http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/fluke/currentclamps/accessoryclampmeters.htm

There is a stand-alone type also where you read amps directly, but most people have a multimeter - the add-on clamp type is cheaper.

http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/fluke/currentclamps/currentclampmeters.htm

A Fluke is way too expensive. Radio Shack probably has a working system for 1/10th the price of a Fluke.

Ignition switch for sure.


I searched around for ignition switch, I dont have the stalling out problem, or the lack of lights.
Can the ignition switch be tested?
I cant afford to dump money into this thing without knowing for sure what it is.