some 6bolt crankwalk
boyertownMidnight
07-01-2006, 08:13 PM
i was having some troubles with my engine for the last couple weeks so i decided to see what was going on after i found metal shaveing's in my oil pan. my car is a 92 gst with a 90 tsi 6-bolt engine w/ 110k on the motor, well i dropped the oil pan and found a crank bearing all twisted up sitting in the bottom of my oil pan, so i took out the whole crank and every bearing was done for, so my question is now whats the best crank and also the best bearings to get? i heard good things about sealed power.
boyertownMidnight
07-01-2006, 08:14 PM
also can i use a non-turbo 6bolt crank i heard there pretty easy to get? is there anyway to make the pin for the flywheel?
Blackcrow64
07-01-2006, 08:47 PM
Just get another stock crank, as they are the best, and get some Clevite 77 bearings.
Talon69
07-01-2006, 09:02 PM
Just to let you know this is not a crankwalk issue IMO, if all your bearings are done for. Sounds to me your oil pump shit the bed and was not getting any oil to the bearings.
Blackcrow64
07-01-2006, 09:22 PM
Or his oil squirters could be plugged up and need replaced...
Talon69
07-01-2006, 09:26 PM
Or his oil squirters could be plugged up and need replaced...
True, but i cannot see every squirter getting plugged at the same time. But still possible i guess.
True, but i cannot see every squirter getting plugged at the same time. But still possible i guess.
kjewer1
07-01-2006, 09:54 PM
Having all the squirters plug up would be a good thing! That would raise oil pressure ;) Getting them stuck open would be one theory for CW, but I have no personal experience with it. Odds are one bearing failed for some reason, and the rest all followed suit.
Edit> Turbo is probably done for too.
Edit> Turbo is probably done for too.
boyertownMidnight
07-02-2006, 04:01 AM
i took the block to the machine shop, the turbo (14b) has no shaft play and everything in the turbo system is fine, when i pulled the engine out of the car the guy said the engine had never been rebuilt, but now since im looking at everything and notice'ing something's it looks like it has been rebuilt, Im not 100% sure but it looks to me like whoever rebuilt the engine must of put the bearing's in wrong or didnt use assm lube.
now that the whole motor is apart heres what needs to be replaced
1. crank has deep cuts in the groves
2. found one crank bearing twisted in the oil pan
3. the connecting rods have deep cuts in there slots as well
4. pistions have vavle marks on all four corners of all the pistons,
heres whats really weird when i took off my timing cover my belt was in great shape but my balance shaft belt was snapped and it looks like it took a little chunk out of my T-belt, but if my balance shaft belt would have' hit my t-belt wouldnt i have felt my pistons hit the vavles ...it makes no since,
the balance shaft and t-belt both have only 32k on them since the last time i replaced them,
well hopfully putting a 4g63 back together is easyer then taking it apart, im going to look at this as a good thing, and since everything is apart maybe now ill put in 2g pistions and some good depenable parts, any idea's?
now that the whole motor is apart heres what needs to be replaced
1. crank has deep cuts in the groves
2. found one crank bearing twisted in the oil pan
3. the connecting rods have deep cuts in there slots as well
4. pistions have vavle marks on all four corners of all the pistons,
heres whats really weird when i took off my timing cover my belt was in great shape but my balance shaft belt was snapped and it looks like it took a little chunk out of my T-belt, but if my balance shaft belt would have' hit my t-belt wouldnt i have felt my pistons hit the vavles ...it makes no since,
the balance shaft and t-belt both have only 32k on them since the last time i replaced them,
well hopfully putting a 4g63 back together is easyer then taking it apart, im going to look at this as a good thing, and since everything is apart maybe now ill put in 2g pistions and some good depenable parts, any idea's?
boyertownMidnight
07-02-2006, 04:03 AM
also how do i check the oil pump and squrters ?
Thor06
07-02-2006, 07:15 AM
Sounds like you need a new timing belt, BS eliminator, new bearings, crank, and rods. Might as well throw some 2g pistons on those bad boys while your at it. I dont know, but I wouldnt use those rods or crank.
EDIT: I've got a buddy with a shit ton of parts, I know for a fact hes got atleast 2 sets of factory rods and I'm pretty sure some pistons and cranks as well. Seems to me hes got like 3 spare engines, all disassembled and picked over. If you want, I can give him a call.
EDIT: I've got a buddy with a shit ton of parts, I know for a fact hes got atleast 2 sets of factory rods and I'm pretty sure some pistons and cranks as well. Seems to me hes got like 3 spare engines, all disassembled and picked over. If you want, I can give him a call.
ITSME4G63
07-02-2006, 07:53 AM
4. pistions have vavle marks on all four corners of all the pistons,
did you ever look at stock pistons before? they come with grooves on all 4 corners. unless you have grooves other than the 4 that are already apresent, those are not valves hitting the piston.
2g pistons with 1g rods is a nice combo. hell you can get eagle rods for like 300$ brand new on ebay, Its alot of money but a great deal though, but the ross pistons would cost you another 400$. Evo8 pistons on 1g rods are good too, they have 8:8 compression. I run them in my car. The first time we ran the engine with the evo8 pistons it burnt oil, why? because the oil ring (the bottom 3 piece one) had not sealed. When I pulled the pistons out, the 2 rings had tension and would catch the piston if you wanted to sit it inside the bore but the oil ring would not catch, it had no tension at all. The machininst in the machine shop told me that the evo8 oil ring is way too thin and that mightve contributed to it failing, so he cut the pistons to accomodate the larger 1g oil ring. Popped it back in, and the car only smoked for half a block and never since.
But if you were going to get new evo8 pistons and doing what I did, youre better off with ross/wiseco.
did you ever look at stock pistons before? they come with grooves on all 4 corners. unless you have grooves other than the 4 that are already apresent, those are not valves hitting the piston.
2g pistons with 1g rods is a nice combo. hell you can get eagle rods for like 300$ brand new on ebay, Its alot of money but a great deal though, but the ross pistons would cost you another 400$. Evo8 pistons on 1g rods are good too, they have 8:8 compression. I run them in my car. The first time we ran the engine with the evo8 pistons it burnt oil, why? because the oil ring (the bottom 3 piece one) had not sealed. When I pulled the pistons out, the 2 rings had tension and would catch the piston if you wanted to sit it inside the bore but the oil ring would not catch, it had no tension at all. The machininst in the machine shop told me that the evo8 oil ring is way too thin and that mightve contributed to it failing, so he cut the pistons to accomodate the larger 1g oil ring. Popped it back in, and the car only smoked for half a block and never since.
But if you were going to get new evo8 pistons and doing what I did, youre better off with ross/wiseco.
Blackcrow64
07-02-2006, 12:21 PM
well, if you need some new rods and pistons. I have a set of used 1g rods/2g pistons which make a pretty nice combo for a moderately powerful setup if your interested...
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