Transfer case recall !!
Killa
06-29-2006, 01:48 PM
Any one here ever brought their awd dsm, to dealer for recall ?. I just find out today my transfer case is leaking, I will take some pix tonight , when I get home. ( im so lucky that not lock on my when I drove back from chicago, and the owner drove from wyoming to chicago ).
Talon69
06-29-2006, 06:41 PM
I do not think there is no recall on your transfer case,(only automatic), mine same year and my recalls where play in latteral balljoints, and a few other front end parts.
Here is the link
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/results.cfm
Here is the link
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/results.cfm
gthompson97
06-29-2006, 07:05 PM
I would take it in, fuck why not? The least they will do is look at it for you. Here's what I pulled off of Mitchell.
98V069002: INSUFFICIENT OIL TO THE TRANSFER CASE
NHTSA RECALL BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 98V069002
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION
Model(s): 1990-98 Eagle Talon
1992-94 Plymouth Laser
Campaign No: 98V069002
Number of Affected Vehicles: 42214
Beginning Date of Manufacture: 1989 May
Ending Date of Manufacture: 1998 Feb
Passenger vehicles.
DESCRIPTION OF DEFECT
Lockup of the transfer case can occur due to insufficient lubrication.
CONSEQUENCE OF DEFECT
This condition can cause a loss of vehicle control, increasing the risk of a crash.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dealers will inspect the vehicles for adequacy of the transfer case oil volume, transfer case oil leakage, and operational degradation of the transfer case mechanism. If oil volume is insufficient, the appropriate amount of oil will be added. If there is transfer case oil leakage, affected components will be replaced. If the transfer case shows operational degradation, the transfer case will be replaced.
OWNER NOTIFICATION
Owner notification began July 6, 1998. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Chrysler at 1-800-992-1997. Also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-dash-2-dot (1-888-327-4236).
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration operates Monday through Friday from 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM, Eastern Time. For more information call (800) 424-9393 or (202) 366-0123. For the hearing impaired, call (800) 424-9153.
98V069002: INSUFFICIENT OIL TO THE TRANSFER CASE
NHTSA RECALL BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 98V069002
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION
Model(s): 1990-98 Eagle Talon
1992-94 Plymouth Laser
Campaign No: 98V069002
Number of Affected Vehicles: 42214
Beginning Date of Manufacture: 1989 May
Ending Date of Manufacture: 1998 Feb
Passenger vehicles.
DESCRIPTION OF DEFECT
Lockup of the transfer case can occur due to insufficient lubrication.
CONSEQUENCE OF DEFECT
This condition can cause a loss of vehicle control, increasing the risk of a crash.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dealers will inspect the vehicles for adequacy of the transfer case oil volume, transfer case oil leakage, and operational degradation of the transfer case mechanism. If oil volume is insufficient, the appropriate amount of oil will be added. If there is transfer case oil leakage, affected components will be replaced. If the transfer case shows operational degradation, the transfer case will be replaced.
OWNER NOTIFICATION
Owner notification began July 6, 1998. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Chrysler at 1-800-992-1997. Also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-dash-2-dot (1-888-327-4236).
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration operates Monday through Friday from 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM, Eastern Time. For more information call (800) 424-9393 or (202) 366-0123. For the hearing impaired, call (800) 424-9153.
Talon69
06-29-2006, 07:36 PM
I would take it in, fuck why not? The least they will do is look at it for you. Here's what I pulled off of Mitchell.
98V069002: INSUFFICIENT OIL TO THE TRANSFER CASE
NHTSA RECALL BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 98V069002
Automoatic only,
Make : EAGLE Model : TALON Year : 1995
Manufacturer : CHRYSLER CORPORATION
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 98V069002 Recall Date : APR 03, 1998
Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 42214
And here is your suspension suff.
Make : EAGLE Model : TALON Year : 1995
Manufacturer : DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 00V421002 Recall Date : DEC 15, 2000
Component: SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 393796
Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. IF THE RUBBER BOOTS ON THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINTS OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION WERE DAMAGED DURING ASSEMBLY, DIRT AND WATER CAN INTRUDE. ALSO, MMC HAS ADDED THE POTENTIAL OF LEAKING MOISTURE, WHICH CAN CAUSE THE BALL STUD TO CORRODE.
Consequence:
THIS CONDITION COULD CAUSE THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINT TO SEPARATE, INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH. THIS CAMPAIGN SUPERCEDES MMC'S PREVIOUS SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN, SEE 99V-066.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINT FOR WEAR. BALL JOINTS THAT EXHIBIT WEAR BEYOND THE ESTABLISHED TOLERANCE WILL BE REPLACED WITH NEWLY DESIGNED LATERAL ARM BALL JOINTS. BALL JOINTS THAT ARE WITHIN THE ESTABLISHED TOLERANCE WILL BE CLEANED AND A SPECIAL SEALANT WILL BE APPLIED TO PREVENT INTRUSION OF MOISTURE.
Notes:
OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN MAY 21, 2001. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403. ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
All you have to do is call the dealer for recalls on your car, give them the vin# and they will tell you what recall has been done and what still needs to be done. Thats what i did the 1st day i got my car ;)
98V069002: INSUFFICIENT OIL TO THE TRANSFER CASE
NHTSA RECALL BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 98V069002
Automoatic only,
Make : EAGLE Model : TALON Year : 1995
Manufacturer : CHRYSLER CORPORATION
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 98V069002 Recall Date : APR 03, 1998
Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 42214
And here is your suspension suff.
Make : EAGLE Model : TALON Year : 1995
Manufacturer : DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 00V421002 Recall Date : DEC 15, 2000
Component: SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 393796
Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. IF THE RUBBER BOOTS ON THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINTS OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION WERE DAMAGED DURING ASSEMBLY, DIRT AND WATER CAN INTRUDE. ALSO, MMC HAS ADDED THE POTENTIAL OF LEAKING MOISTURE, WHICH CAN CAUSE THE BALL STUD TO CORRODE.
Consequence:
THIS CONDITION COULD CAUSE THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINT TO SEPARATE, INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH. THIS CAMPAIGN SUPERCEDES MMC'S PREVIOUS SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN, SEE 99V-066.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINT FOR WEAR. BALL JOINTS THAT EXHIBIT WEAR BEYOND THE ESTABLISHED TOLERANCE WILL BE REPLACED WITH NEWLY DESIGNED LATERAL ARM BALL JOINTS. BALL JOINTS THAT ARE WITHIN THE ESTABLISHED TOLERANCE WILL BE CLEANED AND A SPECIAL SEALANT WILL BE APPLIED TO PREVENT INTRUSION OF MOISTURE.
Notes:
OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN MAY 21, 2001. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403. ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
All you have to do is call the dealer for recalls on your car, give them the vin# and they will tell you what recall has been done and what still needs to be done. Thats what i did the 1st day i got my car ;)
kjewer1
06-29-2006, 09:00 PM
There was a tcase recall on almost all DSMs up through the mid 2g range. My 95 was covered. Getting the dealership to fix it is almost impossible though. Mine actually locked up, when I had the exwife in the car. Luckily for us I was still in first or second gear, not on the highway in front of an 18 wheeler. ;)
The dealer will most likely replace the seal, because it's cheap and easy to do. But by the time the seal leaks, the level has been low for some time, and the yoke/tail housing are damaged. This will provide some play in the joint, and the new seal will crap out again soon. This time when you take it in they will say "go fuck yourself, the recall has already been done," even if you go to a different dealer. You can call Mitsu corporate customer service, but they will say the same thing, the recall has already been done. So in reality you are better off not taking it until it locks up! But this is very dangerous, and not at all recomended.
There is another part to the recall that the dealer never wants to do. It includes a new yoke that has to be installed on the driveshaft. It's a little more work, and they don't like to do it. The only good thing to come from this being added to the warranty is that in an effort to control thier reported financial loss due to the recall, the part is priced at about 32 bucks ;) Includes a new U-joint too IIRC.
To do the job right though you need to also inspect the tcase housing, specifically the sleeve the yoke rides in. If the yoke and the sleeve are damaged, and you replace only one, the other part will destroy the new part. Ask me how I know ;) When I checked on this (4-5 years ago) you could not get the sleeve seperately, so I bought the whole tail housing for about 100 bucks. Even came with a new seal installed :D
The bottom line is there is a 99% chance the dealer will be completely worthless on this, even though it's a SAFETY recall and could cost you and your passengers and others your lives. You can try to threaten them with contacting the NTSB, who is responsible for enforcing safety recalls, but it's unlikely to help much. I would be prepared to spend the cash and get it done yourself, and don't be cheap, replace all damaged parts so you don't have to do it twice. I put over 100k miles on that tcase after I replaced these parts, at high power levels, with no more trouble. And it had over 100k when I installed it in the car. Probably 225k miles or so on that unit.
The dealer will most likely replace the seal, because it's cheap and easy to do. But by the time the seal leaks, the level has been low for some time, and the yoke/tail housing are damaged. This will provide some play in the joint, and the new seal will crap out again soon. This time when you take it in they will say "go fuck yourself, the recall has already been done," even if you go to a different dealer. You can call Mitsu corporate customer service, but they will say the same thing, the recall has already been done. So in reality you are better off not taking it until it locks up! But this is very dangerous, and not at all recomended.
There is another part to the recall that the dealer never wants to do. It includes a new yoke that has to be installed on the driveshaft. It's a little more work, and they don't like to do it. The only good thing to come from this being added to the warranty is that in an effort to control thier reported financial loss due to the recall, the part is priced at about 32 bucks ;) Includes a new U-joint too IIRC.
To do the job right though you need to also inspect the tcase housing, specifically the sleeve the yoke rides in. If the yoke and the sleeve are damaged, and you replace only one, the other part will destroy the new part. Ask me how I know ;) When I checked on this (4-5 years ago) you could not get the sleeve seperately, so I bought the whole tail housing for about 100 bucks. Even came with a new seal installed :D
The bottom line is there is a 99% chance the dealer will be completely worthless on this, even though it's a SAFETY recall and could cost you and your passengers and others your lives. You can try to threaten them with contacting the NTSB, who is responsible for enforcing safety recalls, but it's unlikely to help much. I would be prepared to spend the cash and get it done yourself, and don't be cheap, replace all damaged parts so you don't have to do it twice. I put over 100k miles on that tcase after I replaced these parts, at high power levels, with no more trouble. And it had over 100k when I installed it in the car. Probably 225k miles or so on that unit.
Killa
06-29-2006, 10:59 PM
Kevin you make me so dam worried now, I dont know what to do now.
Killa
06-29-2006, 11:34 PM
I just get under the car again, shit red fluid every where ( before the fluid was black so I cant really note where the leak from ) I just change the fluid to red line heavy duty gear oil, now I can tell where it leak, it leek at the end of the" U joint " If I say it right, I will brought to the dealer when I fix my idle.
vanilla gorilla
07-01-2006, 06:14 PM
Well. Glad mines not AWD. J/K
david-b
07-01-2006, 06:29 PM
You can get the work done elsewhere and then send the bill to Mitshu corporate, I did that when I got new control arms installed. I didn't know about the recall, and had my mechanic do it. I told the dealer about it and gave me the address and phone number to corporate. I got most of my money back. IIRC it was like $300, and i got back about $275. Can't complain there.
Killa
07-02-2006, 10:51 AM
I came to chrysler dealer, the other day. They check my car and told me , the transfer case recall, was done back in 1998, and they wont do it again, I told them this is safety recall, so Its can be done many time as it need to be done. I show them the paper that I print out from vfaq ( that say its safety recall and need to be done when ever it leak )and they call chrysler corp, and after a while, they told me bring back on monday, and they will check where the leak come from, then they will call chrysler again, and told them where the leak, and if chrysler say they gonna fix it or not, if they fix it, chrysler gonna repair for free, if not I have to pay for it. I told they Im gonna bring it back next week. Hope they fix it.
Thor06
07-02-2006, 07:11 PM
I would just go buy a new t case.
l_eclipse_l
07-02-2006, 08:40 PM
I would just go buy a new t case.
Why? Theres a possibility he can get it done for free.
Why? Theres a possibility he can get it done for free.
Killa
07-02-2006, 08:49 PM
I just hope they fix the leak for me, I cant spend a major money on this car right now :banghead: .
Thor06
07-02-2006, 09:03 PM
Yeah, but if its not going to get done for free (judging by Kevin's post sounds like it'll be a half assed job if they do it for free, plus Killer said they did it back in 98) I would just buy one off a guy with extra parts or a junk yard. Rebuilding might be the better option, but I bet that shit costs lots of money and if the dealership is anything like any other dealership experience I have ever heard of, I would far rather risk it on another used t case.
The most recent and noteworthy example of this is my moms Rendezvous. She was headed to Oklahoma for her friend's son's wedding and her tranny went like 2.5 hours from home, luckily enough right next to a Chevy dealer. They found metal shavings in her tranny fluid and told her they might need a new one (ha, might need a new one :rolleyes:). So after a few hours of poking around they determined it had to come out of the car and get rebuilt/replaced. She missed the wedding, but went to her next stop in Chicago for a college friends reunion and they said it would be ready in a week when she got back. Got back and they hadn't even gotten it out of the car all the way. The lady at the dealership did get GM to pay for half though, so that was cool but it wont be done til the end of this week now if they stay on track.
The most recent and noteworthy example of this is my moms Rendezvous. She was headed to Oklahoma for her friend's son's wedding and her tranny went like 2.5 hours from home, luckily enough right next to a Chevy dealer. They found metal shavings in her tranny fluid and told her they might need a new one (ha, might need a new one :rolleyes:). So after a few hours of poking around they determined it had to come out of the car and get rebuilt/replaced. She missed the wedding, but went to her next stop in Chicago for a college friends reunion and they said it would be ready in a week when she got back. Got back and they hadn't even gotten it out of the car all the way. The lady at the dealership did get GM to pay for half though, so that was cool but it wont be done til the end of this week now if they stay on track.
Killa
07-02-2006, 09:23 PM
good luck to your mom man :wink: .
Killa
07-06-2006, 03:49 PM
Im back, I got appoiment today this morning, so i wake early and brought the car in at 8:00 am, I ask them, what did they replace when back in 1998, they cant pull up any thing from the pc, they told me that if they put the car in the jack and check, and if not the transfer case recall, they gonna charge me $80, that bull shit but Im 100% sure it was the seal and yoke leak( thanks vfaq again), so I told them go ahead and check, after 5 and a half hours waiting :banghead: , they finally pull my car in and check ( they dont let me in the shop when they was checking ). after 30 min, they told me that,they just call chrysler corp, they say it can be replace again, so the dealer gonna replace all the seal, ring, U joint, and every thing else, not the new transfer case through, any way, I was happy and they told me all the part will be here in a week, call them on thrusday, and if they say all the part here, then I can bring my car on friday. Pheww..., I have so much relive now.Hopefully my IAC will be here soon. peace out.
l_eclipse_l
07-06-2006, 05:50 PM
Sweet fucking deal.
BTW, you have the right to watch them work on your car. If they say you can't, they are full of shit and need to get punched in the balls. Atleast they are covering most of the shit though.
BTW, you have the right to watch them work on your car. If they say you can't, they are full of shit and need to get punched in the balls. Atleast they are covering most of the shit though.
Blackcrow64
07-06-2006, 06:08 PM
While we already have a transfer case thread here I would like to throw in a question of my own for my transfer case... (Sorry killer, I'm not trying to steal your thread. :wink:)
Right before my motor crankwalked, I developed a horrible leak where my transfer case and tranny meet. I am wondering if this was a transfer case problem or a tranny problem? I thought maybe something was going bad causing a leak there? Any ideas guys? It was a steady flow of fluid... Just about the same as if I were taking a piss.
Right before my motor crankwalked, I developed a horrible leak where my transfer case and tranny meet. I am wondering if this was a transfer case problem or a tranny problem? I thought maybe something was going bad causing a leak there? Any ideas guys? It was a steady flow of fluid... Just about the same as if I were taking a piss.
Killa
07-06-2006, 06:18 PM
While we already have a transfer case thread here I would like to throw in a question of my own for my transfer case... (Sorry killer, I'm not trying to steal your thread. :wink:)
Right before my motor crankwalked, I developed a horrible leak where my transfer case and tranny meet. I am wondering if this was a transfer case problem or a tranny problem? I thought maybe something was going bad causing a leak there? Any ideas guys? It was a steady flow of fluid... Just about the same as if I were taking a piss.
Did you check out http://www.tmo.com/today/faqs/xferleak.htm ?. If it leak gear oil, brought it to the dealer, and they should fix it for you. Good luck
Right before my motor crankwalked, I developed a horrible leak where my transfer case and tranny meet. I am wondering if this was a transfer case problem or a tranny problem? I thought maybe something was going bad causing a leak there? Any ideas guys? It was a steady flow of fluid... Just about the same as if I were taking a piss.
Did you check out http://www.tmo.com/today/faqs/xferleak.htm ?. If it leak gear oil, brought it to the dealer, and they should fix it for you. Good luck
gthompson97
07-06-2006, 08:48 PM
( thanks vfag again)
:lol:
:lol:
Blackcrow64
07-06-2006, 09:19 PM
Did you check out http://www.tmo.com/today/faqs/xferleak.htm ?. If it leak gear oil, brought it to the dealer, and they should fix it for you. Good luck
Not the same leak I was talking about, but mine does have that leak too... I'll definetly be fixing that during my rebuild.
Not the same leak I was talking about, but mine does have that leak too... I'll definetly be fixing that during my rebuild.
Killa
07-06-2006, 09:52 PM
:lol:
my bad , my bad gthompson97 Im gonna murderrr you :wink: .
my bad , my bad gthompson97 Im gonna murderrr you :wink: .
kjewer1
07-08-2006, 12:47 PM
A leak between the tcase and tranny could be several things. Most common is probably a driver side axle seal leak, which is above the tcase, so it looks like it's coming from between the two. Could be the input seal on the tcase. Or it could be the output shaft seal on the tranny. The output shaft seal can be changed with the tranny in the car, but I don't think I will ever try that again. I'd rather just pull the tranny :) At any rate, none of these leaks will be covered by anything but your wallet. The recalls are only for the tcase output related leaks.
Blackcrow64
07-08-2006, 05:53 PM
A leak between the tcase and tranny could be several things. Most common is probably a driver side axle seal leak, which is above the tcase, so it looks like it's coming from between the two. Could be the input seal on the tcase. Or it could be the output shaft seal on the tranny. The output shaft seal can be changed with the tranny in the car, but I don't think I will ever try that again. I'd rather just pull the tranny :) At any rate, none of these leaks will be covered by anything but your wallet. The recalls are only for the tcase output related leaks.
Right, I figured it might have been a tranny seal or something. I wasn't even gonna try for a recall thing cause I know how dealerships are. Even though my output shaft is leaking due to that seal going bad too... The fluid has always been taken care of in it though. Do you think I will be ok to just replace that output shaft seal myself while everything is out of my car? I just don't wanna have my transfer case lockup on me after I get everything back together...
Right, I figured it might have been a tranny seal or something. I wasn't even gonna try for a recall thing cause I know how dealerships are. Even though my output shaft is leaking due to that seal going bad too... The fluid has always been taken care of in it though. Do you think I will be ok to just replace that output shaft seal myself while everything is out of my car? I just don't wanna have my transfer case lockup on me after I get everything back together...
Killa
07-08-2006, 11:01 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4642326298&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT
that is where I get my car from, any way, it say I have new TB, clutch ( I found alot oil under my foot, I think that why he replace the new clutch) and drive axels.
that is where I get my car from, any way, it say I have new TB, clutch ( I found alot oil under my foot, I think that why he replace the new clutch) and drive axels.
kjewer1
07-09-2006, 02:08 PM
Right, I figured it might have been a tranny seal or something. I wasn't even gonna try for a recall thing cause I know how dealerships are. Even though my output shaft is leaking due to that seal going bad too... The fluid has always been taken care of in it though. Do you think I will be ok to just replace that output shaft seal myself while everything is out of my car? I just don't wanna have my transfer case lockup on me after I get everything back together...
Are we talking about the same output shaft seal? The tcase output shaft seal is at the rearmost end of the tcase. The tranny output shaft seal, whcih I was refering to above, is between the tranny and tcase, below the clutch. Having that leak will roast the tranny, but the tcase will be fine ;) Sounds like there is some confusion of all these seals here. Here is a list.
Tranny input shaft seal: On the tranny input shaft which slides into the clutch. A leak here will get oil on the clutch and ruin it, and it can no be changed without completely tearing down the tranny to the bare bellhousing case.
Tranny output shaft seal: On the shaft that goes "out" to the tcase. A leak here will drop oil down between the tranny and tcase. It's the lowest seal on the tranny, so it's the worst one to have leaking (can cause very low fluid level). It can be changed with the motor/tranny installed by just removing the tcase, but it's a shitty job.
Passenger side axle seal: Most common to go bad, usually damaged when pulling the passenger side axle for tranny or clutch related work. A leak here is obvious, it's the only seal on this side of the tranny. Having this seal leak can lower fluid level enough to ruin the higher input shaft seal.
Drivers side axle seal: Similar function to pass side seal, but this is a different part, has a metal sleeve. Rarely fails, but will drop fluid down in between tcase and tranny. Tcase has to be removed to see if it is leaking. Since it's connected to the same front diff as the passenger side axle, having this seal leak can lower fluid level enough to ruin the higher input shaft seal.
Tcase input shaft seal: Probably the only seal never to leak on my personally. Not sure if it is installed from the inside or outside, but should be easy enough to change either way.
Tcase output shaft seal: The common tcase leak, covered by the recall. Cheap and easy to change, which is why the dealer pussies out and does this every time and marks the recall as "done," but the damage the leaking seal caused to the yoke and sleeve is the real problem. New seals will not last if the yoke/sleeve are bad. Replace all three to be done with the job for good.
That was fun.
Are we talking about the same output shaft seal? The tcase output shaft seal is at the rearmost end of the tcase. The tranny output shaft seal, whcih I was refering to above, is between the tranny and tcase, below the clutch. Having that leak will roast the tranny, but the tcase will be fine ;) Sounds like there is some confusion of all these seals here. Here is a list.
Tranny input shaft seal: On the tranny input shaft which slides into the clutch. A leak here will get oil on the clutch and ruin it, and it can no be changed without completely tearing down the tranny to the bare bellhousing case.
Tranny output shaft seal: On the shaft that goes "out" to the tcase. A leak here will drop oil down between the tranny and tcase. It's the lowest seal on the tranny, so it's the worst one to have leaking (can cause very low fluid level). It can be changed with the motor/tranny installed by just removing the tcase, but it's a shitty job.
Passenger side axle seal: Most common to go bad, usually damaged when pulling the passenger side axle for tranny or clutch related work. A leak here is obvious, it's the only seal on this side of the tranny. Having this seal leak can lower fluid level enough to ruin the higher input shaft seal.
Drivers side axle seal: Similar function to pass side seal, but this is a different part, has a metal sleeve. Rarely fails, but will drop fluid down in between tcase and tranny. Tcase has to be removed to see if it is leaking. Since it's connected to the same front diff as the passenger side axle, having this seal leak can lower fluid level enough to ruin the higher input shaft seal.
Tcase input shaft seal: Probably the only seal never to leak on my personally. Not sure if it is installed from the inside or outside, but should be easy enough to change either way.
Tcase output shaft seal: The common tcase leak, covered by the recall. Cheap and easy to change, which is why the dealer pussies out and does this every time and marks the recall as "done," but the damage the leaking seal caused to the yoke and sleeve is the real problem. New seals will not last if the yoke/sleeve are bad. Replace all three to be done with the job for good.
That was fun.
Blackcrow64
07-09-2006, 04:44 PM
Thanks for all that Kevin. :)
I am talking about both output shafts. The one on the tranny is where I think the leak was coming from and the one on the end of the tcase is leaking as well. I am going to replace both and hope that solves that problem... How hard is it really to change the yoke and sleeve if they are bad?
I am talking about both output shafts. The one on the tranny is where I think the leak was coming from and the one on the end of the tcase is leaking as well. I am going to replace both and hope that solves that problem... How hard is it really to change the yoke and sleeve if they are bad?
kjewer1
07-09-2006, 10:42 PM
I couldn't find a part number for the sleeve itself (though I heard it exists and can be changed seperately), and I was in a rush, so I ordered the whole tailshaft housing with new sleeve included. That was about 100 bucks IIRC. It just bolts on to the cast iron main body of the Tcase. The Yoke is a 35 dollar kit that is part of the recall (which is why it's so cheap, used to be more like 80 bucks I hear. Makes the stock holders think they didn't lose as much money for thier fuck up as they really did) and I had my brother change that way back when, so I can't comment on how hard that is to do. Many people do this themselves, but alternatively you could easily drop the driveshaft and have a driveshaft shop do the work for cheap money. The new tailshaft housing also came with a new seal. This is really the best way to fix this problem, if you have sleeve/yoke damage. In my case the damage was pretty easy to see. The parts should obviously be perfectly smooth and free of defects. If yours are fine the bad seal didn't ruin them yet. If the yoke is the cause of the bad seal however, the new seal won't last.
This is why I recomend replacing/updating all three parts at the same time. Do it once, do it right. It is a pretty serious safety issue after all.
This is why I recomend replacing/updating all three parts at the same time. Do it once, do it right. It is a pretty serious safety issue after all.
Blackcrow64
07-09-2006, 11:30 PM
Sweet. I will be replacing all of the seals then and anything else that is damaged. I don't wanna risk a lockup goin 55mph down the road. lol
Fallenfantasies
07-15-2006, 01:49 AM
I got the 23 spline tcase sitting in my garage i come up off it for maybe like 30 or 40 dollars, or a nice trade. I swapped a a 1g trans into my 95 whenever it went out at like 185,000. Let me know bra, its in perfect condition and i just had to buy on off ebay for like 115. So my deal aint breakin balls.
Blackcrow64
07-15-2006, 11:10 AM
I got the 23 spline tcase sitting in my garage i come up off it for maybe like 30 or 40 dollars, or a nice trade. I swapped a a 1g trans into my 95 whenever it went out at like 185,000. Let me know bra, its in perfect condition and i just had to buy on off ebay for like 115. So my deal aint breakin balls.
Are you talkin to me or Killer?
Are you talkin to me or Killer?
Killa
07-15-2006, 10:18 PM
Are you talkin to me or Killer?
I think he is talking to you, cause my dealer already cover for me every thing, BTW all the part already here ( at dealer ) he told me bring back on friday, but I told him, I need the car for weekent, and will bring back on monday, any one here have any ideal, how long it take to replace, u-joint, and all the seal ? Thanks.
I think he is talking to you, cause my dealer already cover for me every thing, BTW all the part already here ( at dealer ) he told me bring back on friday, but I told him, I need the car for weekent, and will bring back on monday, any one here have any ideal, how long it take to replace, u-joint, and all the seal ? Thanks.
l_eclipse_l
07-15-2006, 10:34 PM
any one here have any ideal, how long it take to replace, u-joint, and all the seal ?
That would have been a good question to ask the dealer...
That would have been a good question to ask the dealer...
Blackcrow64
07-16-2006, 02:22 AM
Hmm, well I don't need a freakin new t-case, I am just gonna replace seals on mine. Even if it did go out, I have an extra 23 spline one laying in the garage. You can never have too many spare parts when you own a DSM. :grinno:
Killa
08-03-2006, 05:28 PM
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=600944
Just back from dealer, find out that they not only replace for me the seal but they replace, the new transfer case :naughty: , I drain the old oil out, and it just came out about 3 table spoon of oil :banghead: , dum bastard, lucky i still have some red line heavy duty shockproof left. :wink:
Just back from dealer, find out that they not only replace for me the seal but they replace, the new transfer case :naughty: , I drain the old oil out, and it just came out about 3 table spoon of oil :banghead: , dum bastard, lucky i still have some red line heavy duty shockproof left. :wink:
Killa
08-23-2006, 06:44 PM
:frown: Well after 648 mile on my new T-case, it FUCKING LEAK AGAIN. It leak very tiny fluid on the U-Joint seal. It not leak that bad, like it take 1 month to leak out a table spoon of fluid. If I put my hand on the U-joint seal, I saw a very tiny fluid, Im not worried about it, but in long term I do. I gotta bring back to dealer. Last time they replace for me whole T-Case, but not the U-Joint. I guess this time they gonna replace the U-joint. I call the dealer and they told me bring by tomorrow and they gonna check. I HATE LEAK !!!
Blackcrow64
08-23-2006, 07:24 PM
Damn those transfer cases... I still gotta get my seals and shit before I put mine all back together. Oh well, I got lots of time still. lol
kjewer1
08-23-2006, 07:53 PM
I'm pretty sure I mentioned above somewhere that the yoke recall has to be done at the same time, or it will damage the new tcase or sleeve. Hopefully all it damaged is the seal, since there is no way they'll give you another tcase.
Killa
08-23-2006, 08:00 PM
I'm pretty sure I mentioned above somewhere that the yoke recall has to be done at the same time, or it will damage the new tcase or sleeve. Hopefully all it damaged is the seal, since there is no way they'll give you another tcase.
Is the U-joint can cause it to leak, cause that the only one they dint replace.
Is the U-joint can cause it to leak, cause that the only one they dint replace.
kjewer1
08-23-2006, 08:56 PM
The "u-joint" you refer to is called the yoke, and is part of a yoke recall kit that can be bought cheap. The labor is a pain in the ass though, might as well have the dealer do it. And ask them to check the sleeve too, because if the yoke is bad so is your new tcase ;) I'm feeling a little too lazy to type much, but check out my other posts from this thread:
There was a tcase recall on almost all DSMs up through the mid 2g range. My 95 was covered. Getting the dealership to fix it is almost impossible though. Mine actually locked up, when I had the exwife in the car. Luckily for us I was still in first or second gear, not on the highway in front of an 18 wheeler.
The dealer will most likely replace the seal, because it's cheap and easy to do. But by the time the seal leaks, the level has been low for some time, and the yoke/tail housing are damaged. This will provide some play in the joint, and the new seal will crap out again soon. This time when you take it in they will say "go fuck yourself, the recall has already been done," even if you go to a different dealer. You can call Mitsu corporate customer service, but they will say the same thing, the recall has already been done. So in reality you are better off not taking it until it locks up! But this is very dangerous, and not at all recomended.
There is another part to the recall that the dealer never wants to do. It includes a new yoke that has to be installed on the driveshaft. It's a little more work, and they don't like to do it. The only good thing to come from this being added to the warranty is that in an effort to control thier reported financial loss due to the recall, the part is priced at about 32 bucks Includes a new U-joint too IIRC.
To do the job right though you need to also inspect the tcase housing, specifically the sleeve the yoke rides in. If the yoke and the sleeve are damaged, and you replace only one, the other part will destroy the new part. Ask me how I know When I checked on this (4-5 years ago) you could not get the sleeve seperately, so I bought the whole tail housing for about 100 bucks. Even came with a new seal installed
The bottom line is there is a 99% chance the dealer will be completely worthless on this, even though it's a SAFETY recall and could cost you and your passengers and others your lives. You can try to threaten them with contacting the NTSB, who is responsible for enforcing safety recalls, but it's unlikely to help much. I would be prepared to spend the cash and get it done yourself, and don't be cheap, replace all damaged parts so you don't have to do it twice. I put over 100k miles on that tcase after I replaced these parts, at high power levels, with no more trouble. And it had over 100k when I installed it in the car. Probably 225k miles or so on that unit.
Tcase output shaft seal: The common tcase leak, covered by the recall. Cheap and easy to change, which is why the dealer pussies out and does this every time and marks the recall as "done," but the damage the leaking seal caused to the yoke and sleeve is the real problem. New seals will not last if the yoke/sleeve are bad. Replace all three to be done with the job for good.
I couldn't find a part number for the sleeve itself (though I heard it exists and can be changed seperately), and I was in a rush, so I ordered the whole tailshaft housing with new sleeve included. That was about 100 bucks IIRC. It just bolts on to the cast iron main body of the Tcase. The Yoke is a 35 dollar kit that is part of the recall (which is why it's so cheap, used to be more like 80 bucks I hear. Makes the stock holders think they didn't lose as much money for thier fuck up as they really did) and I had my brother change that way back when, so I can't comment on how hard that is to do. Many people do this themselves, but alternatively you could easily drop the driveshaft and have a driveshaft shop do the work for cheap money. The new tailshaft housing also came with a new seal. This is really the best way to fix this problem, if you have sleeve/yoke damage. In my case the damage was pretty easy to see. The parts should obviously be perfectly smooth and free of defects. If yours are fine the bad seal didn't ruin them yet. If the yoke is the cause of the bad seal however, the new seal won't last.
This is why I recomend replacing/updating all three parts at the same time. Do it once, do it right. It is a pretty serious safety issue after all.
There was a tcase recall on almost all DSMs up through the mid 2g range. My 95 was covered. Getting the dealership to fix it is almost impossible though. Mine actually locked up, when I had the exwife in the car. Luckily for us I was still in first or second gear, not on the highway in front of an 18 wheeler.
The dealer will most likely replace the seal, because it's cheap and easy to do. But by the time the seal leaks, the level has been low for some time, and the yoke/tail housing are damaged. This will provide some play in the joint, and the new seal will crap out again soon. This time when you take it in they will say "go fuck yourself, the recall has already been done," even if you go to a different dealer. You can call Mitsu corporate customer service, but they will say the same thing, the recall has already been done. So in reality you are better off not taking it until it locks up! But this is very dangerous, and not at all recomended.
There is another part to the recall that the dealer never wants to do. It includes a new yoke that has to be installed on the driveshaft. It's a little more work, and they don't like to do it. The only good thing to come from this being added to the warranty is that in an effort to control thier reported financial loss due to the recall, the part is priced at about 32 bucks Includes a new U-joint too IIRC.
To do the job right though you need to also inspect the tcase housing, specifically the sleeve the yoke rides in. If the yoke and the sleeve are damaged, and you replace only one, the other part will destroy the new part. Ask me how I know When I checked on this (4-5 years ago) you could not get the sleeve seperately, so I bought the whole tail housing for about 100 bucks. Even came with a new seal installed
The bottom line is there is a 99% chance the dealer will be completely worthless on this, even though it's a SAFETY recall and could cost you and your passengers and others your lives. You can try to threaten them with contacting the NTSB, who is responsible for enforcing safety recalls, but it's unlikely to help much. I would be prepared to spend the cash and get it done yourself, and don't be cheap, replace all damaged parts so you don't have to do it twice. I put over 100k miles on that tcase after I replaced these parts, at high power levels, with no more trouble. And it had over 100k when I installed it in the car. Probably 225k miles or so on that unit.
Tcase output shaft seal: The common tcase leak, covered by the recall. Cheap and easy to change, which is why the dealer pussies out and does this every time and marks the recall as "done," but the damage the leaking seal caused to the yoke and sleeve is the real problem. New seals will not last if the yoke/sleeve are bad. Replace all three to be done with the job for good.
I couldn't find a part number for the sleeve itself (though I heard it exists and can be changed seperately), and I was in a rush, so I ordered the whole tailshaft housing with new sleeve included. That was about 100 bucks IIRC. It just bolts on to the cast iron main body of the Tcase. The Yoke is a 35 dollar kit that is part of the recall (which is why it's so cheap, used to be more like 80 bucks I hear. Makes the stock holders think they didn't lose as much money for thier fuck up as they really did) and I had my brother change that way back when, so I can't comment on how hard that is to do. Many people do this themselves, but alternatively you could easily drop the driveshaft and have a driveshaft shop do the work for cheap money. The new tailshaft housing also came with a new seal. This is really the best way to fix this problem, if you have sleeve/yoke damage. In my case the damage was pretty easy to see. The parts should obviously be perfectly smooth and free of defects. If yours are fine the bad seal didn't ruin them yet. If the yoke is the cause of the bad seal however, the new seal won't last.
This is why I recomend replacing/updating all three parts at the same time. Do it once, do it right. It is a pretty serious safety issue after all.
Killa
08-23-2006, 09:16 PM
What is sleeve ?
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