I think my ISC ( IAC ) busted,

I follow
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

take out the battery, and remove ISC, check it with ohmmeter, I connect red cable to 1 and black cable to 2 ( or black to 1 red to 2, is that even matter ? ), any way I did all six of them, and all come up with over 42 ohms, I guess I have to order new one now, any one know where I can get this cheap, I check( call ) auto zone, advant autopart, oreily ( 1 hours away :evillol: ), and every part store, and all of them is over my bugget ( $170 ) auto zone is cheap one I found $169.

How did you know your ISC went bad, check engine light or did you notice your RPMs playing? I have a bad ISC too and i got a check engine light because of it. I saw one for sale on DSmtuners but the guy never replied. Look around, dealer is way expensive, maybe used on ebay for $50 but you get no warranty that it might actually work. I am going to a junk yard for one but some one might have one here for sale.

I dont have any check engine light, my car idle fine at warm up, after driving around ( drive hard ) the idle stay at 2.5k, and some time stay at 3k, if I put cluth in and in gear, the idle drop, when I come to stop and put in neutral, the rmp stay at 3k. So I read faq at vfaq how to check if is bad, I did take it out and check with ohmeter, and all the # is over 42, so I know it bad.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191137

Quote : "- Bad ISC motor- Costs about $220 brand new. I have read that this is the culprit when the car starts to surge after it has been running for a while."

would it work if it comes from a hunday elantra? the 4g63 engine, i can get my hands on one right now for 100 bucks, it smokes a lot, but starts, i thought about parting it out, if the sensor will work for killer i can go and buy the car, and i'll sell it to you for like 50 shipped , i can always sell the tb and IM, exhaust manifold and some other stuff.

Sound good, but I cant tell that will work on my engine, I have to go autozone tomorrow and check if they have same part # or not. But when Im at advant auto part, they pull up 2 idle air control for my turbo car. one look like 420a and the other one look exactly like the one I have right now. what year is that car ?

Idle Air Control Valve? I dont know what shit is called, but I thought this might help. Its $151 without shipping, but you can you that 5% discount code I got. its in the OT section.

I got a couple that I could get rid of. I checked them all and they all are fine. If you want one, make offer.

I didn't even think you can buy these new. The dealer used to make you buy a whole TB to get one. Getting one used is a good option, but they aren't too common, since if someone sells the ISC the TB is then worthless, and 91-94 TBs can go for 75-100 bucks all day. www.crebotech.com used to rebuild ISC and sell them for a reasonable price, but that was a long time ago...

I didn't even think you can buy these new. The dealer used to make you buy a whole TB to get one. Getting one used is a good option, but they aren't too common, since if someone sells the ISC the TB is then worthless, and 91-94 TBs can go for 75-100 bucks all day. www.crebotech.com used to rebuild ISC and sell them for a reasonable price, but that was a long time ago...

Yes thank !!

:disappoin :disappoin :disappoin :disappoin

CREBOtech ([email protected]) has issued you a full or partial refund
for your payment.

Please do not reply to this email. Email sent to this address cannot be
answered.

Message From Seller:
Ken,
I am unable to come up with the parts required to rebuild an ISC for
you in a timely manor. At this time I am refunding your order in full.
Marcus

any one have any ideal where I can get one cheap,

auto zone : $189
oreily : $153.99
advant auto part : $199

Rockauto has the for $137 a bit cheaper http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1103195,parttype,6072

ty every one, I just saw this on ebay last night, so I go ahead buy it right away, and pay thru paypal, so it can be ship to me today. Hope this work

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=110004795191&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

ty every one, I just saw this on ebay last night, so I go ahead buy it right away, and pay thru paypal, so it can be ship to me today. Hope this work

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=110004795191&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Looks like you got a good deal man. :sunglasse

Just wondering at what temp did you test your ISC motor? if you tested it in the car on even a warm engine, it will read a much higher resistance. if the motor is hot, 42 ohms is about right. the 28-34 ohm spec is designed to be tested at about room temp. Resistance increases as temperature increases

Their no way I can test with that on my car ( it work for most people, but not me ), I take that out and take to my room, and test it. By the way its cool before I test it.

Some times the ISC motor only goes to shit when hot, so it's best to test hot anyway.

Another test you can do is to remove the ISC from the TB but leave it plugged in and set it up where you can see it. Cycle the key on and off watching it's movement. If it doesn't move, it's completely dead. If it's twitchy and wierd it can be one or two bad coils. You can also disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, then the first time you turn the key on you should hear the ISC stuttering against the hard stop while it relearns the home position. The ECU will do this to the ISC everytime it's reset. There is no closed loop feedback on ISC motor position (like motor/encoder ssystems) so the ECU has to assume the position of the ISC, and the home position is set by forcing "past" the hardstop so the ECU can assume it knows where it is. This of course only works when the ISC is functional, if it's not working the ECU blindly runs through the same procedure, even though the ISC isn't moving. This is a great indicator of a completely failed motor.

Some times the ISC motor only goes to shit when hot, so it's best to test hot anyway.

Another test you can do is to remove the ISC from the TB but leave it plugged in and set it up where you can see it. Cycle the key on and off watching it's movement. If it doesn't move, it's completely dead. If it's twitchy and wierd it can be one or two bad coils. You can also disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, then the first time you turn the key on you should hear the ISC stuttering against the hard stop while it relearns the home position. The ECU will do this to the ISC everytime it's reset. There is no closed loop feedback on ISC motor position (like motor/encoder ssystems) so the ECU has to assume the position of the ISC, and the home position is set by forcing "past" the hardstop so the ECU can assume it knows where it is. This of course only works when the ISC is functional, if it's not working the ECU blindly runs through the same procedure, even though the ISC isn't moving. This is a great indicator of a completely failed motor.

Thank again Kevin, yes my ISC go shit when hot only, if I pop the hood after long drive, let it cool down around 15min, it drop down like normal around 1k.

I did most people told me to do, unplug the ISC and adjust the biss, it doest not work for me, it still idle high ( my ISC will be here on friday, it bull shit $20 for 7 day shipping, wat a rip off ). any way, I try uncrew the biss , but it wont come off ? some people told me to replace the O ring, how do I get the biss crew out ? thanks

unscrew it so its completely unthreaded then use a magnet

Unplugging the ISC to adjust the BISS wouldn't work. Well, it could work by accident, but there's no good reason to to it this way :) Unplugging the ISC will keep the ECU from using it to control idle speed, but if it's not centered the BISS setting will still not be correct. Also, any time you unplug the ISC while the car is running you need to reset the ECU to force it to re-home the ISC motor. There is no closed loop feedback of ISC motor position, so the ISC becomes out of sync with the ECU if you unplug it while the ECU is trying to use it.

I unplug it, only when the car is off, today I was boost alot like 8-10 psi for every gear ( dont ask ), then I came to the stop it was Idle at 4k, I like wtf that too high, so I pull over kfc, turn off the car pop the hood, then I go inside buy some chicken :grinyes: , yes Im hungry, I went out I saw alot coolant under the car, I was freak out, I though I blow my coolant pipe, I check the coolant pipe, it still tight, so I saw coolant come out from the hose at the box ( coolant reserver ? the plastic box that you put coolant it ), the coolant was over flow. Phew...., I have few question

1: You know you support leave the car Idle few min after driving right, well I cant idle my car cause it alway idle at 3k, so I have to turn off the car right away, is that bad, if I let it idle even the car is idle at 3k, you think oil will come off the turbo ?.

2: My biss crew it mess up, i think it too hot and it cook the crew, cause the crew it really soft now. Where can I order the brand new screw with O ring, if I come to the dealer, what should I say to them ?.

thanks

My IAC come today, and I put it on, well it did the same thing before, I check the Ohm, and all of them read around 32ohm then I take it off the car, take to my room , test again, all of them read around 30.5ohm, what other thing that can cause my Idle too high like that , it not bound up and down, it just go up at 3k and stop their, unless I put on gear and go again, but if I push the clutch in and take off gear, it back to where it at before 3k ( some time 4 k If I boost the shit out off the car ). Im about to go crazy now :banghead: .

some guy at dsm tuner send me a email,

http://www.dsmisc.com/dsmweb-dw/index.html

after I read thru it, here what I found

9. The new ISC you shipped me reads 40 Ohms across the coils, not 28-33 ohms. This isn't what the VFAQ, or the OEM manual or other test procedures say.
Yes, because most of the on-line info on DSM ISCs is old and has never been updated! Mitsubishi started putting these new ISC's in cars around 2000. Dealers started selling them as OEM replacements for DSMs after they cleared out their stock of the older units. The new OEM replacement ISC for the 4G63 uses a higher ohm load. This is an improvement over the old ISCs, which were suppose to be within spec if they were between 28-33 ohms. Those cause the ECU to push more current. The new-style ISC's are much more precise and will read 40 ohms +- .2 ohm. across each coil. The higher ohm rating is actually a good thing, and results in pushing your ECU drivers less than even a brand new, old ISC. Remember, we sell the SAME ISC you would get from the dealer.

http://www.dsmisc.com/dsmweb-dw/pictures.html

My old one ( black style ) is actually the new mitsubishi ISC, that why it read over 40omh, the one I just order from ebay ( brown looking thing read at around 30-31ohm ), what else can cause this problem now ?

If it's not the ISC, you are still left with the other potential causes, like bad FIAV, vac leak, etc. I may have talked more about these things earlier in this thread. One day I will do a complete writeup of the DSM idle control system on my site.

If it's not the ISC, you are still left with the other potential causes, like bad FIAV, vac leak, etc. I may have talked more about these things earlier in this thread. One day I will do a complete writeup of the DSM idle control system on my site.

Bad FIAV cause coolant leak right ? I check my ISC it dry no leak, just some old gunk oil, Vac leak, can be found using boost leak test right ? I cant build one so I saw this site selling one with gauge, I just dont know which one to buy.
http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html

Boost Leak Tester (Gauged)
3" Diameter
With Tire Valve Adapter
$20 + $4.05 shipping

Boost Leak Tester (Gauged)
3" Diameter)
With Male Compressor Coupler
$20 + $4.05 shipping

Thanks Kevin.

Not necessarily. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen a bad FIAV leak coolant. It just fails to close all the way when warm, causing a fast idle. Much like having the BISS or ISC all the way open. Best way to check is to try a known good TB, with your current ISC (so you aren't changing two parts at once). If you want to be getto, and try this at your own risk, tape off the holes in the bottom of the TB for the FIAV and see how it idles. Just be sure the tape can't get sucked into the motor, don't rev it or drive it or anything like that. That's not something I'd normally recomend to other people, but I would be willing to carefully try it on my own car :)

Either leak tester will work, the difference is just in how you want to hook up to it. The tire valve is the most common type and you are guaranteed to be able to get air into it. The compressor fitting however is the best option, since you won't have the restrictive tire valve making it harder to find big leaks. The only catch is you have to be very careful about lowering the pressure on the compressor regulator so you don't put 120 psi to it when you connect ;) start at 10 psi or so, most compressor regs can hld 10 psi readily.

That 2 hole on the TB right obove the ISC right ?

Yup. If you've ever read the TB cleaning VFAQ, those are the holes they say not to get any solvents in, because it will damage the FIAV. I wish I had a TB handy to look at ot be sure though, it's been so long since I did this shit. I don't recall where the passages for the ISC are located. You probably want the front holes, since the FIAV ismounted toward the front of the TB, and the ISC is toward the back.

Finding a spare known good TB would be a much better option, but hey, in a pinch... :)

Yup. If you've ever read the TB cleaning VFAQ, those are the holes they say not to get any solvents in, because it will damage the FIAV. I wish I had a TB handy to look at ot be sure though, it's been so long since I did this shit. I don't recall where the passages for the ISC are located. You probably want the front holes, since the FIAV ismounted toward the front of the TB, and the ISC is toward the back.

Finding a spare known good TB would be a much better option, but hey, in a pinch... :)

Yes I did read TB cleaning at Vfaq, first I dint know what it doest, but I block it with eclectric tape ( black tape ) then I spray some carb cleaner, and the take is melting :frown: , so I use another tape ( the silver tape that people alway using on the box to ship out ), now I know those 2 hole is for the FIAV. What tape are you recomment for using to block off the hole ?, what happent if the idle drop like normal, what im gonna do from there ?

lol...I never blocked any of the holes in my TB when I cleaned it with that spray-in shit. Hasn't affected anything yet.

lol...I never blocked any of the holes in my TB when I cleaned it with that spray-in shit. Hasn't affected anything yet.

I dont think N/T car have Fiav, I could be wrong, but I alway clean my TB on my 97 rs, I dont think I saw a hole their ( i could be wrong, well it been a long time any way ).

I dont think N/T car have Fiav, I could be wrong, but I alway clean my TB on my 97 rs, I dont think I saw a hole their ( i could be wrong, well it been a long time any way ).

Oh I remember seeing a hole...but I didn't care to plug it.

one quick question , how many O-ring is support on the biss crew ?

just one at the top of the screw.

no the 420a's dont have fiav. i cleaned the TB on my rs tons of times and never had any problems.

no the 420a's dont have fiav. i cleaned the TB on my rs tons of times and never had any problems.

that what I though.

no the 420a's dont have fiav. i cleaned the TB on my rs tons of times and never had any problems.

I have no idea what the hole is for, but it's there. Trust me, I was just in there 2 weeks ago and looked at it. I wondered wtf it was for, then stuck the can in there and sprayed.

i dont have my rs anymore or i'd go look, but i'm guessing it's for the idle, since 420a's dont have biss.

:grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes:
:naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :evillol: :evillol: :evillol: :evillol: :smokin: :smokin: :smokin: :) :icon16: :wink: :grinno: :licka: :sunglasse :smooch: :cwm27: :p :rolleyes: :) :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

You guy feel me now ? I fix my Idle problem :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: , Yesterday I was doing fuel fitler change, and I cant get the bottom bolt off, I think I strip that shit, so today I went to car care clinic ( I dont know you guy knew this shop or not ), after 1 hours waiting, they cant get the bottom bolt off either, I dint tell them that I try before and it not work, they told me go down town ( 30min away ), when I get to down town, traffic like shit, and my car idle at 4k:banghead: :banghead: , I was really piss off, I have to stop by the gas station and pop the hood, let it cool down, then the idle drop down to 3k, so I keep on going, After the third time stop at the gas station, the fourth time I was really really piss off, I get tool box out and uncrew 2 bolt of that hold the TB cable, when I loose the second bolt, it adjust by it self, and my engine is quiet, I was like " WTF :eek: ), I went inside and check the rpm it was 1k, I was really happy " shit I fix it ", I adjust the biss ( it was all the way in before ), I back 2 full turn, and my idle at 2k, I adjust a little until it around 900-1.1k, I was happy, really happy, ( long time ago my 94 eclipse, I fix the idle just by adjust the TB cable ). I read all the Idle problem threat, and non told me to adjust the TB cable, but now it fix, I can idle my car after hard running now, :grinyes: :grinyes: thanks all you guy for the help, " Kevin I preciate " Im gonna run for couple day, let see my idle change or not, I keep this threat update.

That's all your problem was? A simple throttle cable that was too tight? God I wish my problems were that easy to fix.

That's all your problem was? A simple throttle cable that was too tight? God I wish my problems were that easy to fix.

Yes I wish I though about that when I first bought the car, it so embress that I pop the hood every where I went ?

Walmart - pop hood, go shopping, close hood, and go home
Go GF house _ pop hood, go inside, take her out, close hood, and go eat. and...:wink:
almost most every where I went, I alway pop my hood, and let it cool down. suck, I think my hood cable is loose, any one know how to tight that cable again ?.

I think we just hit the record for smileys in one post. :grinyes:

I think we just hit the record for smileys in one post. :grinyes:

I just want show every one how happy I am now, I guess I sleep better now.

I'm pretty sure I always recomend adjusting the cable before adjusting anything else. I'll guarantee you there are a couple posts where I suggest this on this forum alone :) At any rate, glad it's fixed!

Well I think my TB cable is dry up, some time it stuck at 2k, I have to push in clutch and rev high, then it go back down to normal, what kind of lubicate do you guy recomment for TB cable. BTW any body here ever need a ISC, I have one that work perfect ( bought of ebay ). I dont need it , you guy already knew why :wink: .

I've had a rusty TB return spring cause me nothing but pain and misery with idle speed for months. A little WD40 took care of it. Ultimately some white lithium grease or similar would be better (last longer). I would start with that. I've never heard of the cable itself getting sticky, and if it did I would just replace it. Not worth assing around with it, when you can't get to the middle of the cable inside the jacket.

I've had a rusty TB return spring cause me nothing but pain and misery with idle speed for months. A little WD40 took care of it. Ultimately some white lithium grease or similar would be better (last longer). I would start with that. I've never heard of the cable itself getting sticky, and if it did I would just replace it. Not worth assing around with it, when you can't get to the middle of the cable inside the jacket.

Thanks :wink: .

lol... glad that's all it was... I'm gonna check into that, b/c my car idles a bit high, but not near 3k... and I'm pulling the intake manifold anywayz...