Micro Mesh problems

I started using 3200 and at first the paint was okay but then I strated to see a difference in color in the paint. Then I switched to 4000 and can see that I was sanding way too close to the primer. So then I was like "Yeah I'm gonna have to repaint this". So I just went to another area of the "ruined" part and started to polish the light orange peel out too see if that will work. I polished for about 3 or 4 times to get the peel out and now I can see some of the primer.:banghead:

I misted coated the body about 2 times and did 1 semi wet coat, then 2 wet coats. So WTF is going on with my paint job.:crying: The paint is freaken smooth though.

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/5932/dsc025120to.jpg
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/9316/dsc025131pd.jpg
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/595/dsc025164da.jpg

Let me get this right. You were polishing and it started showing primer in some areas? You overall did 5 coats of paint, right? I dont understand when people say wet and semi wet paint jobs. Did you let the paint dry long enough? I had similar problems myself not to long ago. I painted the model and other small loose parts, and then i let sit and dry for about a week to a week and a half. Then i'd polish and notice some paint would come off, enough paint so that it would ruin the paint job. I was told I need to let the paint settle for about 4 weeks, at least. I tried it, a few months ago, on two models im going to start on in a few days from now, and the paint stayed on. Maybe you need to let the paint settle longer before you start to polish it. I'm also certain you arent scrubbing, but just lightly rubbing.

not enough paint

You say paint was smooth, perhaps you could have started with a higher number, not with 3200.

Anyway I agree that you should allow paint to cure totally before starting polishing, it makes a big difference. If you want to work faster you could use some clear coat with an smaller curing time, or lacquers.

Next time polish the clear coat, not the color coat i.e. put a clear coat over the color coat.
hth,
Bill

Anyway I agree that you should allow paint to cure totally before starting polishing, it makes a big difference. If you want to work faster you could use some clear coat with an smaller curing time, or lacquers.
Well I did let the paint cure for about a week. So I guess I will have to start on another kit and let the paint cure for about 4 weeks.:disappoin

Next time polish the clear coat, not the color coat i.e. put a clear coat over the color coat.
hth,
Bill

Does it matter if the color coat has some peel when I spray TS-13? Also, I guess I have to build up about 3-4 mist layers, 2 semi wet, then 2 wet layers.


Thanks for the help guys.:)

I do about 7 coats of paint or whatever i can get out of one can. I painted two cars while i was doing one. Today I finished that one model and am going to start on the two that i had painted. I painted them a little more than 2 months ago and polished them about 3 weeks ago. The paint stayed on the model. So it worked for me to let the paint dry longer than the one week i was doing in the past.

yes, you need to let the paint completly dry out. The tamiya spraycans are sandable after a few days, but for polisching you should wait longer. Put the model in the hottest places in you're house. Every 10° the temperature goes up, the drying time is halved. Don't exagerate with the temperature, it's still plastic ;-)

Also, when I start polishing, i usualy start with 6000 grit. When it's not going fast enough I go to 4000. And a clearcoat works wonders... you polisch and a soon as you see some colour comming of... stop and spray some more clear.. expecialy if you have an airbrush this works great.

1) Make sure all you coats are sanded smooth. If the undercoat is orange peeled then it is likely the topcoat will be too, and when the "ridges" sand back you'll see spots of primer.
2) Remember sanding and polishing are removing paint so allow for that and put that a bit extra on if you feel you are going too far.
3) Clearcoat and sand, checking the surface of the sandpaper regularly. That way if you see any colour you know its time to stop, well before you reach primer.
4) Be extra careful on high points and edges. Looking at the pics it seems the high point in the center of the door recieved more attention than the surrounding areas and burnt through quicker.

Sanding and polishing a solid colour is quite straighforward once you've tried the same thing on a car covered with decals! :eek:

I assume you used Tamiya TS7 lacquer spray paint on your Enzo. This paint goes on rather thin, just like any lacquer. I have done the same sequence of events on my Mini: Two wet coats of TS7 red lacquer, then let cure for a week, then polished out with some 4000 grit mesh: I had to go VERY easy on the mesh to not go through to the primer! So the problem here is only the paint film thickness, you need to add more paint (or better, add a few coats of TS13 clear before polishing, it goes on much thicker than the paint and gives more margin for polishing, plus it gives you a warning when you see some color on the polishing cloth...).

I see that you used the polishing stix on the door, I have used them but they need to be extra careful as they rub the paint at one point, not a surface like with a mesh cloth. Compare them to a file vs a sandpaper, the file will rub in one point only because it is stiff and removes a lot of material at that point... Prefer the standard micromesh cloths for the general polishing, use the polishing stix for the details and crannies only.

Good luck! (well, luck has nothing to do with a good paint job in fact...)