ok new problems.

ok i let it idle for a while today. and by itself at idle it is great but when i first start it up it seems like its dying then the ecu corrects the problem. thats what i was thinkign anyway. but the other problem is when i tap the peddle like a mini rev. really quik step on it. it seems like the motor just stops then goes. its kinda like the newer cars with the electronic throttle. any help would be great. thanks everyone for the help.

Check your timing..after you adjusted your cam gears it would throw the timing off.

ok i let it idle for a while today. and by itself at idle it is great but when i first start it up it seems like its dying then the ecu corrects the problem. thats what i was thinkign anyway. but the other problem is when i tap the peddle like a mini rev. really quik step on it. it seems like the motor just stops then goes. its kinda like the newer cars with the electronic throttle. any help would be great. thanks everyone for the help.

like you said in the other thread...you didn't turn the crank 3 teeth to tighten the belt. You're belt is loose and it's causing your timing to be a little off when you first rev it because it is loose then it tightens a bit w/ the revs. I'd stop driving it till i fixed the belt...you're bound to slip the belt soon and be way off timing again. No check engine lights?

oh yeah plenty of check engine lights. i got a electric load code, a cylinder #1 code, tps code. i dident stick around there might be more. it moves but not right. its wierd i try to go fast in third and it doesent go anywhere but does sound like it putting out power. so i put it back into 2nd and it goes fast a little i havent really got to go fast yet. i need an exhaust. this header isnt working for me. im gonna get a stock one. any one want to do a trade? the belt is tight. i dident tell you but i striped the tensener bolt with my best socket. it sucked but i couldent get if off so i slipped it off while it was still tightened but got it all back on it seems very tight, i cant move it side to side unless i take a flat head to the side of it i bet. the running is at about 2 on a scale of one to ten we have bas starts, lag in the throttle response. high idle(maybe its just the strait header)., but i got plenty of codes i will list them all is a sec. i gonna go check em all. thanks for the help

here they are in a row if that matters.
code 7= throttle angel
code 9=no.1 cylinder position
code20=electric load
code 3=manifold absolute pressure
my questions is how to fix these each one of them. and if you could please help thanks. and make it simpole like code 1=(how to fix)

here they are in a row if that matters.
code 7= throttle angel
code 9=no.1 cylinder position
code20=electric load
code 3=manifold absolute pressure
my questions is how to fix these each one of them. and if you could please help thanks. and make it simpole like code 1=(how to fix)

code 7 - that's the TPS on the back of the throttle body. Make sure it is plugged in and that you haven't swapped it with the map sensor, because they both use a 3 wire plug. You can use a multimeter to check that the voltage is correct. Check the honda manual to do this. Alot of times, it gets broken on the install of the engine too so make sure it's intact.

code 9 - has to do with timing. This sensor is physically located inside the distributor. It rarely goes bad. Sounds to me like your timing may still be off, even if it's just a tooth. double check it. ALWAYS double check all of your work. It's the first key to success. Also, did you reset your ecu? it may just be an old code from when it wasn't starting before. Was your car previously a DX or STD? Your car may be wired wrong for the distributor if it was. This code is about 90% of your car's running problems. Try to get this one squared away first.

code 20 - ELD. This is 90% of the time from a ground not hooked up, or hooked up in the wrong place. If i were you, I would seriously reroute your grounds back to the stock CRX locations and make sure all the surfaces and grounds are sanded down to bare metal. Other than that, it may possibly be your alternator. Make sure the fusible link (fat white wire going to alternator) is intact, not broken, and is tight on the alternator, as well as screwed into the fuse panel in the engine bay.

code 3 - Map sensor. This is the sensor on your firewall with all the vacuum hoses coming out of it. Make sure you have all of your vacuum hoses routed correctly. I posted a diagram in the last two weeks here. If you can't find it let me know s and i'll send it your way. This thing is like a scale, in the fact that it measures the pressure of something...the air coming into your intake manifold. A bad vacuum source could just be causing it to output the wrong voltages to the ecu.

ok i went out to my carjust now and reset the ecu. no codes i doubt they are gone but i will check tomorrow. my other quesiton is do you need to rerout a wire for the rpm's whe doing a mpfi swap or anything. or just to put a b series in your car. because me and my friends tachs arent working after out swaps. is wierd if it aint a common problem. let me know thanks

and is the tps on the engine harness side or the interior harnerss side. i could have them swapped. i will reground my grounds tomorrow.

ok i went out to my carjust now and reset the ecu. no codes i doubt they are gone but i will check tomorrow. my other quesiton is do you need to rerout a wire for the rpm's whe doing a mpfi swap or anything. or just to put a b series in your car. because me and my friends tachs arent working after out swaps. is wierd if it aint a common problem. let me know thanks

no. no rerouting is necessary. I'm pretty sure its the blue wire on the two wire plug. But, it may be related to the code 9 problem. I'm not sure what the tach reads off of, off the top of my head.

yeah you are right its the blue one we just out my friends in. cuz his dont work. he has some codes as well. a actuall shop did his wiring tho. but what about the tps sensor is it on wich side?

yeah you are right its the blue one we just out my friends in. cuz his dont work. he has some codes as well. a actuall shop did his wiring tho. but what about the tps sensor is it on wich side?

read above. DIRECTLY on the rear of the throttle body.

no. no i know that thanks but i need to know do the wires for the tps come from the engine harness or the chassis harness? as i recall each of the same looking plugs comes from one or the other.

no. no i know that thanks but i need to know do the wires for the tps come from the engine harness or the chassis harness? as i recall each of the same looking plugs comes from one or the other.

TPS comes from the engine harness. The map sensor comes from the chassis harness and originally runs along the firewall unless you rerouted it.

npoe no rerouting that. but it is on correctly then. i messed with it while the car was running and there was a little differance in the idle when turned from one dise to the other but no much. isnt it in three peices 1 the plug peice 2 the spring and 3 the other little plastic peice that connects to the tb?

npoe no rerouting that. but it is on correctly then. i messed with it while the car was running and there was a little differance in the idle when turned from one dise to the other but no much. isnt it in three peices 1 the plug peice 2 the spring and 3 the other little plastic peice that connects to the tb?

well, yes. But, you're not supposed to mess with it. It has to be perfect, and moving it .0001 inches away from where it's supposed to be will throw off your tps.

damn my bad. i should really check these things. should i just have a shop check it out and tune it or just get the voltage down to the correct numbers than forget the code

damn my bad. i should really check these things. should i just have a shop check it out and tune it or just get the voltage down to the correct numbers than forget the code

if you can get a multimeter and adjust it to the right spot...then you will be good and you can reset the code and it will be gone.
But, i don't know of any shop that are going to be able to test it....they usually don't go into electrical like that. If your car is a 1st gen B16a, then you can just get a used b18a throttle body because it's the same size. If not, you can upgrade any other bseries throttle body because they are bigger.
Try not to touch the TPS unless you know how to tune it.

well the shop i go to did the testing on my friends. they have lots for swaps that show up with bad ones. i will just get it down with my dads multimeter and then reset it. then move on to the next one. i think i will worrrie about the electrical load next. grounds right?

well the shop i go to did the testing on my friends. they have lots for swaps that show up with bad ones. i will just get it down with my dads multimeter and then reset it. then move on to the next one. i think i will worrrie about the electrical load next. grounds right?


Be careful about running your engine without suitable grounds. You could actually burn out all your engine sensors this way. Since the engine tries to search for grounds it goes to the sensors and causes them to burn out. This is what a tech at a honda dealer told me after i broke my valve cover ground. He told me to not even crank the engine without a tranny, VC, or thermo ground. This could be one of the major reasons your engine is running like ass...happened to me too.

ok i will do the ground thing now, thanks