Tie Rod Lubrication

97 GP GT 3.8 112,000. Am still troubleshooting the persistant clunk in my drivers side suspension area. While going through the troubleshooting section of my Haynes manual I noticed that some cars have a grease fitting on top of the tie rod end so it can be lubricated with a grease gun. I pulled the tire and I do have a grease fitting on top of my tie rod. Is this fitting for the purpose of lubricating the tie rod end? If it is can anything else be used besides a grease gun because I don't own one. Everything else is tight am I'm wondering if this could be my problem with the clunking noise. Thanks for any info....

Did you have the clunking sound before you replaced the struts? Also, was the upper strut mount/load bearing replaced.

You must have an aftermarket tie rod end or someone put the grease zerk fitting on because stock do not have them.

If you have the fitting on the tie rod then yes it is the lubrication point.

Yes I've had the noise before the struts. The strut mounts and load bearing were closely inspected and re-used. If it's either one of these causing the clunk, how much of a hassle and cost would it set me back to replace. I'm going to lubricate this tie rod end first and see if that gets me anywhere.
Thanks..

Yes I've had the noise before the struts. The strut mounts and load bearing were closely inspected and re-used. If it's either one of these causing the clunk, how much of a hassle and cost would it set me back to replace. I'm going to lubricate this tie rod end first and see if that gets me anywhere.
Thanks..

I recalled you recenty replaced the struts but if the clunk was there before then I would rule them out for now.

What are the conditions for the clunk? During braking, acceleration, deceleration or steering movement only?

Backing up and turning the wheel left I can hear a clunk. Also driving forward turning left and sometimes right. It doesn't do it as much when I've been driving for awhile, or I'm just so used to it I don't notice. But it's definately coming from the front drivers side wheel area. I know that there's a TSB for some wide body GM cars for inadequate lubrication of the intermediate steering shaft but not sure if that includes my year. Moreover it sounds like it's further out towards the wheel area.

Is it the wheel hub?

Thought about the wheel hub, but not throwing any abs lights and this thump is deep almost like there's a spring involved but not really sure, hard to explain the sound. Tie rod has been lubricated so it's not that. I'll eventually have to have somebody take a look. I dread it because it is most likely a guessing game and I'm not going to throw 1,000 bucks to chase a ghost and not have it fixed.

Thought about the wheel hub, but not throwing any abs lights and this thump is deep almost like there's a spring involved but not really sure, hard to explain the sound. Tie rod has been lubricated so it's not that. I'll eventually have to have somebody take a look. I dread it because it is most likely a guessing game and I'm not going to throw 1,000 bucks to chase a ghost and not have it fixed.

When you a chance safety jack it up, remove the wheel. Put lug nuts back on to hold the disc rotor in place. Grab ahold of the rotor, pull side to side and forward and backward to see how much slop in in the hub wheel bearing. Also, check the condition of the ball joint and the lower control arm bushings.

Will do, thanks Bob. I'm suspecting one of the control arm bushing because I sprayed some lubricant on the front bushing and the clunking ceased for a while. Looks like a pretty good clue.

Hub is as tight as can be, absolutely no slop/play. I had a ball joint replaced about four months ago. Still suspecting that control arm bushing but can't tell just by looking.

Hub is as tight as can be, absolutely no slop/play. I had a ball joint replaced about four months ago. Still suspecting that control arm bushing but can't tell just by looking.

Yeah Paul, I guess you can rule out the wheel bearing and ball joint. Really hard to tell on the lower control arm bushings unless you see something visually but if the stuff you sprayed on either got rid of the clunk or minimized it then that would be worth checking into. Have you checked to make sure the rack and pinion is tight and properly torqued down where it mounts to the subframe? Also, how do the front stabilizer bar (anti-sway) bushings look - center and at the control arm link?

Actually the rack and pinion was loose when the ball joint was replaced and it was tightened down. As far as the sway bar bushings it was recommened that I have those replaced when I got that quote for the struts at a local brake shop. I have not had them replaced though. I have looked at them but again, not being real familiar on what I should be looking for I didn't see anything out of the ordinary.

Ok, I'm almost 100% sure that I finally have this clunking noise narrowed down to my front stabilizer bar bushings. Is this a fairly easy DIY repair? I have the directions from my Haynes manual. Either the manual makes it look harder than it really is or I'm making it look harder or both. I'm certainly not gonna let a brake shop do it, they rape people. Anyway, what do ya'll suggest I get these bushings from? Does it really matter what type and/or where I get them? Thanks a million for your suggestions Bob and everyone else.

Ok, I'm almost 100% sure that I finally have this clunking noise narrowed down to my front stabilizer bar bushings. Is this a fairly easy DIY repair? I have the directions from my Haynes manual. Either the manual makes it look harder than it really is or I'm making it look harder or both. I'm certainly not gonna let a brake shop do it, they rape people. Anyway, what do ya'll suggest I get these bushings from? Does it really matter what type and/or where I get them? Thanks a million for your suggestions Bob and everyone else.

Paul, sway bar work is easy and DIY. I installed aftermarket polyurethane bushings in my GTP. Energy Suspension and Speedbuilt are a few companies that make them. Try PFYC. Plus the midpoint bushings will have a grease fitting where you can lube with silicone grease. The end links at each control arm are easier than the midpoint bushings. Link below is just a general guide:

http://www.grandprix.net/upgrades/frontswaybar.html

Very good link thanks again Bob. Do I need to replace the bar also or can I just get by with replacing the bushings.

Very good link thanks again Bob. Do I need to replace the bar also or can I just get by with replacing the bushings.


You are welcome. Unless there is obvious, visible damage just the bushings.

Jonjon,
I just found this thread, and thought I might jump in. I just recently changed out the sway bars on my car. I wrote about it here.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=483988

I really like the speedbuilt sway bars I got, and it was pretty easy to switch out. If you do make this change, you wont believe how wimpy the factory sway bars are, in comparison. :)

Anyway, there is a little bit of squeak noise from the poly bushings, but the extra handling performance more than makes up for it. I don’t really hear it, unless I have the radio turned off. And it did not affect the ride at all. Cheers!