broken trans cooler line
sei_
06-26-2006, 02:58 AM
hey people
my radiator died on me so I had to buy a new one. The problem is when removing the lower trans cooler line (the one that goes to the auxilliary oil cooler ) i sort of twisted it (unknowingly) to the point that it snapped. Me wanting to solve all problems as fast as possible had incorrectly ordered the wrong line, the one that comes from the transmission and into the radiator. Great. After some research I found out this particular line, the one I broke, isnt sold anywhere.
My question is... do you think its possible to at least use the line I recieved by mail, cut off the end that connects to the radiator, cut off the twisted metal from the old line and somehow attach the two with some sort of hose??? This would be temporary just to get me to my work while I completely bypass the old cooler with a new one... Or am I just :screwy:
my radiator died on me so I had to buy a new one. The problem is when removing the lower trans cooler line (the one that goes to the auxilliary oil cooler ) i sort of twisted it (unknowingly) to the point that it snapped. Me wanting to solve all problems as fast as possible had incorrectly ordered the wrong line, the one that comes from the transmission and into the radiator. Great. After some research I found out this particular line, the one I broke, isnt sold anywhere.
My question is... do you think its possible to at least use the line I recieved by mail, cut off the end that connects to the radiator, cut off the twisted metal from the old line and somehow attach the two with some sort of hose??? This would be temporary just to get me to my work while I completely bypass the old cooler with a new one... Or am I just :screwy:
Dave_s
06-26-2006, 08:26 AM
If you buy the cooler line at the dealership, they sell them in pairs. I don't know where you purchased it, but they should sell it the same way.
Huney1
06-26-2006, 11:50 AM
Go to the prats store and get some rubber hose that has the same inside diameter as the tubings outside diameter and also get four small hose clamps. Cut a piece of hose about two inches more than what you need to fill in where you cut the twisted leaking tubing out. Now take a rough file and file the tubing and make it rough on the outside so the hose won't slip off easily and flare the tubing ends just a tad and that will make it more dificult for the hose to slip off.
Clean the tubing good and take the hose and slip it over the tubing one inch on each end. Don't use any lubricant that will make the hose slip on easier. Take two small clamps on each end about 1/4" apart and screw them down nice and snug. Don't over tighten them and snug enough is when you see the rubber start poking thru the slots in the clamps just a little bit. Let it sit about fifteen minutes so the hose can 'seat' on the tubing, then crank 'er up and watch for leaks. If it leaks tighten the clamp just enough to stop the leak, do not overtighten it. That should hold a long time because the pressure in the lines isn't that much.
I say 'not much pressure' because when you install a transmission cooler you cut the tubing and put a rubber hose on the tubing that goes to the cooler. Virtually the same thing I told you to do, so do it that way and you probably won't have to replace the tubing, leave the hose on and let 'er dig. :iceslolan
Tell the guy at the parts store what you want to do and he should be able to fix you up with what you need and take a piece of the tubing with you so they can get the exact size ID hose you need. ID = Inside diameter. OD = Outside diameter.
If you insist on metal tubing, I think most tranny shops can fabricate the right tubing with the right turns, twists and fittings, so call a few tranny shops and also ask at the auto parts stores.
Clean the tubing good and take the hose and slip it over the tubing one inch on each end. Don't use any lubricant that will make the hose slip on easier. Take two small clamps on each end about 1/4" apart and screw them down nice and snug. Don't over tighten them and snug enough is when you see the rubber start poking thru the slots in the clamps just a little bit. Let it sit about fifteen minutes so the hose can 'seat' on the tubing, then crank 'er up and watch for leaks. If it leaks tighten the clamp just enough to stop the leak, do not overtighten it. That should hold a long time because the pressure in the lines isn't that much.
I say 'not much pressure' because when you install a transmission cooler you cut the tubing and put a rubber hose on the tubing that goes to the cooler. Virtually the same thing I told you to do, so do it that way and you probably won't have to replace the tubing, leave the hose on and let 'er dig. :iceslolan
Tell the guy at the parts store what you want to do and he should be able to fix you up with what you need and take a piece of the tubing with you so they can get the exact size ID hose you need. ID = Inside diameter. OD = Outside diameter.
If you insist on metal tubing, I think most tranny shops can fabricate the right tubing with the right turns, twists and fittings, so call a few tranny shops and also ask at the auto parts stores.
sei_
06-26-2006, 12:02 PM
ok! thanks for the tips!
Huney1
06-26-2006, 12:20 PM
"ok! thanks for the tips!" No problem se_ 'cause that's what we're here for. :wink:
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