An ABS problem with my 1997 Intrepit ES

Background: The problem seemed to appear after I removed the original factory battery because I thought it had gone bad. After removing the battery from the vehicle I discovered the negative battery terminal was the culprit as it had totally disintegrated from corrosion and needed replacement (the reason the battery was not charging). At first I planned to replace the entire neg. cable that consisted of two ground wires (a large dia. and a smaller dia.) running from the terminal to the engine and chassis. I then removed the left-front wheel to better determine the wire's routing. When I did, I discovered a routing through a hard-to-get-to wire harness sleeve and some rather difficult snaking to achieve a "factory" installation. This was more than I wanted to take on. In addition, I found I could simply buy a good quality over-the-counter terminal from a Parts Store as the ground cable itself was in good condition. That make the job a great deal easier.
When I went to reinstall the left-front wheel it took me (a senior) 3 or 4 attempts to lift the wheel onto the lug-bolts (it seems the wheels get heavier as one gets older). However, I finally got the wheel on the hub, installed the lug-nuts and lowered and removed the jack. Next, after charging the original battery off the vehicle, I reinstalled it and both neg. and pos. battery terminals (the battery sits on a battery platform immediately against and just ahead of the closed ABS Controller box).
My Problem: Once everthing was reinstalled and secured I easily started the engine and drove down the driveway to the highway. When I went to brake before reaching the highway and stopping, the vibrating-sort-of-trumpiting noise associated with the activation of the ABS system sounded.
After numerous test starts and stops I determined the ABS noise occured when the vehicle was going both forward and in reverse. The sound occured in forward motion only between 15 and 10 MPH when braking (moving fast or slow) and only between 10 and 5 MPH in reverse. In all test-braking attempts the weather was warm to hot and the pavement dry. The ABS activated noise had never sounded in the past unless while braking on icy-slippery surfaces.
I'm wondering if I didn't damage or pull something loose when trying to reinstall the LF-wheel or perhaps in the Controller box area when reinstalling the battery.
Frustration: Haynes Manual for this vehicle suggests: A. I checked the brake caliper to see if it is in good condition. I did a visual check and it seems to be fine. B. I checked the electrical connection at the Controller box to see if I had seperated or pulled loose any wire leads. I did and everthing looked fine but I didn't look inside the box as I couldn't figure how to get inside. I checked what I could see but could not find any apparent problems.
I am now baffled and do not know what to do next. I know I could take the vehicle to a dealer who has a DRB ll scanner but I have very limited income and need to correct the problem myself if I can.
Hopefully someone reading this will have had a similar experience and suggest a solution to my problem. P.S. The ABS light on the vehicle's cabin message center does not come on during these test-runs. It only comes on very briefly when turning on the ignition. This is normal for this vehicle as I recall.

The only thing I can think of, besides that the module you mention was somehow damaged while removing/reinstalling the battery, is maybe your speed sensor is loose/damaged. If you haven't checked that when you were looking for probelms, it should be behind the rotor sitting somewhere above the tone wheel/'geared' portion of the hub/axle.

Also check the tone wheel for missing teeth, contact with the speed sensor, alignment with the sensor. More likely is the sensor is out of allignment with the tone wheel if it is not touching it but hopefully it is only out of alignment.

You might try disconnecting that speed sensor to see if the problem continues with it unplugged vs being plugged if when you check the connection and tone wheel everything seems fine.

Also do you get any codes form turning the key?

Windowpane: The problem I posted regarding my 1997 Intrepid is the first posting I've ever made on the computer. Your response was so prompt I guess I forgot my manners. Thank you.
Since posting that problem my attention has also been diverted to another unrelated problem in my life and I really haven't digested or explored all your helpful suggestions. I may get time to follow through on your remarks tommarow but if not surely over this coming weekend (I need the use of this vehicle). I intend to look much closer at the "module" behind the battery, check the speed sensor for damage or looseness, examine the "tone wheel" for damage or out-of-alignment, and , if need be, try to disconnect the speed sensor to see what that tells me. I will also check for any codes I can bring up on the OBD through turning the ignition key . I used this resource a couple of years ago to find I had a bad emissions (oxygen) sensor on the exhaust system. I will need to refamiliarize myself on how to do that procedure however. I think the Haynes Manual for this vehicle explained how to do this the time before and I'll reread that section ASA I can get back to dealing with this vehicle's ABS problem. I believe Haynes also listed some 35 codes but I don't recall if any related to ABS diagnosis.
As soon as I have acturally pursued each of your suggestions I will post my findings or results for your review. Although I am a far better "parts changer" than analysist, I can usually follow good directions :)
Thanks again for your assistance and response.

Today I removed the LF wheel and carefully inspected the ABS electrical connections to that wheel. I also rotated the axle shaft to inspect the Tone wheel. Everything seemed in order. I don't know how to check the Tone wheel for alignment but all the teeth looked good and none were missing. I did not disconnect any wiring that might lead to the speed sensor as I wasn't sure as to what the speed sensor is. While re-installing the wheel it occured to me that whatever difficulty I had the first time lifting the wheel back on the lug nuts most likely would not have resulted in damage to any of the ABS system on that wheel as all that stuff is tucked away safely from any mounting activitiy.

Next, I carefully inspected the wiring leading to the ABS controller box behind the battery but found nothing that looked suspicious.

Finally using the ignition key I tried for any codes that might surface through the OBD. I got two codes; 12 and 55. Haynes Repair Manual describes 12 as, "Problem with the battery connection. Direct battery input to controller disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles". Code 55 as"Completion of fault code display on "Check Engine" lamp. This is an end of message code".

Don't know what the No.; 12 means as vehicle starts immediately as it should and all connections appear sound.

I took the vehicle for a test run after checking out the things I listed above and the same ABS noise occured I first described and at the same speeds. It is more of a moan than a trumpit or vibration and it can be felt through the brake pedal.

Tommarow I will look at the fuses to make sure all are in good shape. Then I don't know what to do.

I'm no expert but from the information I could find alignment of the speed sensor just means it is 'aimed' at the tone wheel's teeth so it can read magnetic fields from the tooth then gap etc. If that area was protected from any possible tampering when you were working then there probably isn't any issue there unless the sensor was very loose but I doubt just lifting the car up and removing the wheel would be enough to mess it up, driving/bumps etc would have much more of an effect.

The 12 code is just stating/alerting you the battery was disconnected 'recently' or in some cases if the connections are bad that code might show up, you already addressed the cables so its just probably just from that last disconnect.

Speed sensors do go bad and it might just be that this one went at an inconveniant time, but taking it to a shop/dealer might be the best bet if you don't find anything.

Best of luck

John: I may have found the cause of my Intrepid's ABS brake problem. I decided to take another look at the left front wheel ABS brake mechanism. Someone told me that the space between the tone wheel and the electrical sensing unit had to be the same for all four wheels. If it wasn't 3 wheels would be operating the same and if the fourth was not registering, the ABS system would likely engage. When I got the wheel off I reached my hand down along the sensing cable, that ran downward and to the rear of the hub assembly, to feel for the space that was mentioned as being important. I could feel a small space at the end of the cable when I got to the sensing unit and with my other fingers I could also feel the little ring on the hub housing that has little teeth-like machining all around its outer circumference (I hope I'm describing the tone wheel) that the sensing unit is suppose to be focusing on. Then I felt the little ring wobble. I didn't think it was suppose to wobble so I got a light and got down to where I could see the tone ring more clearly and found I could skate the tone ring back and forth on the hub housing surface. I didn't think I should be able to do that so I began to rotate the ring around the hub and, low and behold, I came upon a break or fracture that allowed the ring to expand. I could tell the break was not an engineered thing as it was jagged. I believe I could have spread the ring and possibly removed it from the outer surface of the hub if I tried. I didn't do that as I began to wonder, at that point, what had to be done to replace that tone ring. Then I decided to head for my computer, hoping you might be checking on my progress, and explain my findings for your reaction. I hope what I've found is relevant to my problem. It certainly seems to me to be the culprit. If it is, I can't find a word in my "trusty" Haynes Repair manual that refers to such a problem. I need to know what to do to replace the ring. I pretty sure, however, I will need to disassemble the brake and rotor assembly and, perhaps even the hub itself from the transaxle in order to slip the replalcement ring up on the hub housing outer surface. I will also need to find out how to get it exactly positioned on the hub housing so the sensor can read it. Do you have any suggestions or comments. I could possibly make the repair but would more likely tackle the job if I had a repair manual the covered the project. At shop rates being what they are at the dealers, I know that I'm looking at a fortune if I go that route. Please advise. For the moment I'm sure its safe to drive the vehicle and I don't think I would further aggrivate the repair. It's just annoying to hear and feel the ABS system kick in, through the brake pedal, when stopping. What are your thoughts? Gerry

Unfortunatly my Factory manual says the drive shaft has to be replaced if it is the tone wheel that is loose, this is what it says:


If a front tone wheel is found to need replacement, the drive shaft must be replaced. No attempt should be made to replace just the tone wheel. Refer to TRANSMISSION AND DRIVETRAIN for removal and installation.

If a rear tone wheel is found to need replacement, the rear hub and bearing must be replaced. No attempt should be made to replace just the tone wheel.

If wheel speed sensor to tone wheel contact is evident, determine the cause and correct it before replacing the wheel speed sensor or tone wheel.

Check the gap between the speed sensor head and the tone wheel to ensure it is within specifications. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS.

Excessive wheel speed sensor runout can cause erratic wheel speed sensor signals. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS for the maximum allowed tone wheel runout. If tone wheel runout is excessive, determine if it is caused by a defect in the driveshaft assembly or hub and bearing. Replace as necessary

Tone wheels are pressed onto their mounting surfaces and should not rotate independently from the mounting surface. Replacement of the front driveshaft or rear hub and bearing is necessary.

It's possible you MIGHT find a local mechanic, non dealer affiliated, who might be willing to try and repair it but I don't know enough about this kind of job or the reason a tone wheel would break/fail other than a possible problem with the driveshaft ie accident/impact.

John: Thanks for the information. Since my last email I've been gathering information regarding the repair myself. What you sent yesterday substantiates what I learned so far. All replacement Axle Shafts I found are remanufactured ones. The local Dodge dealer lists theirs at $113.88 and with my discount is $77.00+ with a core charge of $50.00. Auto Zone is $59.99 with core charge of 45.00, Advance Auto is 79.88 with core charge of $35.00 and my favorate privately owned auto parts store came in at $65.70 and they will waive the core charge because they know I will bring in the defective one. I also found that Advance Auto has a free booklet specifically geared to explaining how to remove and replace axle shafts on the different makes of vehicles. I plan to fetch one of these yet this morning. I also found that my Haynes Repair Manual also explains the process (although I don't know how well yet). None of these suppliers have the part in stock but all claim they can get one overnight. At this point I'm building up my bravado toward making the repair myself (a shot of "Red Eye" may also help :). I have a nephew nearby who had to reposition a similar shaft on his vehicle a week ago and came through with flying colors. I tried to reach him this morning to get his input on the project but he's taking a class at Valparaiso University today and won't be home until late this afternoon. I can wait as I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport that I can get around in. If I'm lucky I may get my nephew to come over, once I assembly the things I need, and "hold my hand" during the repair. I carefully rechecked the sensor and it appears in good shape so will have to be extra careful with it when making the repair. I wish I knew where to find the diminsion on the space between the sensor and the tone wheel in case I needed to make an adjustment after the repair. It may also be in the Haynes manual somewhere as I haven't yet looked. I can't image how the tone ring split. I really don't see how I could have damaged it in any way with it tucked away as it is. Merely putting the wheel back on the lug bolts, no matter how clumsily and no matter how many times shouldn't effect the tone ring in any way. It may have just been a fluke happening when it did. Wish I knew but now need to concentrate on getting it replaced.

I would like to speak directly with you by phone to express my appreciation with your kind responses but don't know how to do that through this media.
I'm guessing you won't see this entry until you get home from your workplace later this afternoon. My location is Liberty Township in Porter County, Indiana. This is about 5 mile north of Valparaiso. Hopefully the weather will be as pleasent when I decide to tackle the repair as it has been the last few days. :) I will continue briefing you on my project as decisions and planning fall into place. Thanks again for your valuable assistance John.

Glad to hear this won't be such a bad job, cost wise, and with the help of your nephew. I dug up the specs on the sensor and wheel alignment:

Allowable Resistance
(Front or Rear Sensor) 900 - 1300 ohms
Front Sensor 0.017 - 0.087 in
Rear Sensor 0.016 - 0.062 in

I imagine the resistance is what you'd get if you put a multimeter across the sensor but as long as the sensor is good you shouldn't have to worry about that. Since it was the tone wheel that cracked the sensor is probably ok.

The gaps widths are probably all you need to adjust if at all, if there still is a problem you could try placing a multimeter across the sensor and seeing if it reads in the right range while in position over a tone wheel 'tooth' or gap don't know if the tone wheel could spin while jacked up but if so turning it to get both a gap reading and 'tooth' reading should confirm that it is in the right position. You could also check the gap before removing the shaft or just check the opposite side to verify.

You are very welcome I'm glad I could help.