Still won't freakin start
jpfergu
06-25-2006, 02:08 PM
Alright, it's me again with the '88 Civic 1.5 that won't start. To recap, I have replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, coil, igniter, main relay, and battery. The fuel pump comes on and fuel is reaching the engine. The check engine light stays on when I turn the ignition on. The battery icon and oil light also stay on. The ecu shows no trouble codes. The engine rotates but will not start. The rotor is turning in the distributor. All the fuses and electrical connections look good.
I have a new problem now...the brand new battery is sounding weak when I turn the key. Could the alternator be draining the system??? Or does it sound like a timing belt issue? It won't start regardless of the temp outside.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
-J
I have a new problem now...the brand new battery is sounding weak when I turn the key. Could the alternator be draining the system??? Or does it sound like a timing belt issue? It won't start regardless of the temp outside.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
-J
bambam89lx
06-25-2006, 03:31 PM
Alright, it's me again with the '88 Civic 1.5 that won't start. To recap, I have replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, coil, igniter, main relay, and battery. The fuel pump comes on and fuel is reaching the engine. The check engine light stays on when I turn the ignition on. The battery icon and oil light also stay on. The ecu shows no trouble codes. The engine rotates but will not start. The rotor is turning in the distributor. All the fuses and electrical connections look good.
I have a new problem now...the brand new battery is sounding weak when I turn the key. Could the alternator be draining the system??? Or does it sound like a timing belt issue? It won't start regardless of the temp outside.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
-J
if the check engine light stays on, there is a connection problem between your ignition, fuel pump, and ecu.
I'd venture to say you have a burnt ecu.
Ok now, when turning the key to "ON", stare at the ecu and see if it blinks once. It should blink just once to show that it is operational and getting power. If it's not, try replacing the ecu.
Other things to consider are making sure all your grounds are good. There is one on the valve cover, one on the transmission that goes from the tranny to the body, then to the negative terminal. Then there is another one that most forget that is on the thermostat housing.
Last thing I can think of is the fat white wire that runs from the fuse box in the engine bay to the alternator. make sure it isn't broken or grounding out. And make sure it is TIGHT on the alternator side. Don't overtighten it though because you can break the plastic it mounts to.
I have a new problem now...the brand new battery is sounding weak when I turn the key. Could the alternator be draining the system??? Or does it sound like a timing belt issue? It won't start regardless of the temp outside.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
-J
if the check engine light stays on, there is a connection problem between your ignition, fuel pump, and ecu.
I'd venture to say you have a burnt ecu.
Ok now, when turning the key to "ON", stare at the ecu and see if it blinks once. It should blink just once to show that it is operational and getting power. If it's not, try replacing the ecu.
Other things to consider are making sure all your grounds are good. There is one on the valve cover, one on the transmission that goes from the tranny to the body, then to the negative terminal. Then there is another one that most forget that is on the thermostat housing.
Last thing I can think of is the fat white wire that runs from the fuse box in the engine bay to the alternator. make sure it isn't broken or grounding out. And make sure it is TIGHT on the alternator side. Don't overtighten it though because you can break the plastic it mounts to.
jpfergu
06-25-2006, 03:33 PM
The ecu is operational, so I'll try all the other stuff. Thanks.
-J
-J
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