belt tensioner

there is a 1/4 inch cunk missing out of my tensioner pully on the outside edgedoesnt seem to be damaging the belt ive got the belt and pully waiting to be able to afford to get put on you guys think itll make it or will it eventaully cut the belt?also did a plug and wire change after i did it the car shook and when i reved it up did a little sign of backfiring out the exhaust.drove it home checked all wires and plugs seemed to be ok drove about 30 miles when i got back home it idled smoother than it ever did accell is 10 times better what you guys think timing problem?

The tensioner pulley bolt is left-hand threaded, so remember that if you're going to do it yourself. If you have any mechanical skills at all and a small socket set, you can change that belt and tensioner pulley in less than an hour. There should be a belt route guide under the hood if you get it apart and forget how the belt went around. As far as the mis-fire/backfire, if you didn't reset the ECM after changing the plugs and wires, it may have been re-adjusting fuel metering after the new parts were installed causing the hiccup.

thanks for the reply.i decided to just go ahead and change it when the belt broke.lol.i thought the car might have needed to readjust 2 of the plugs were burned also wondered the guy at autozone told me that bosch plat 4's are bad for the engine is this true?

What yr and model of bonny?Yes stay away from bosch,and if supercharged stay away from platinum.Stick with copper or irridium

Bosch +4's are garbage. Stick with AC-Delco (or Autolite double platinums) on the plugs. Iridium and Platinum are essentially the same, just named differently.

its a 95 se .now its starting back to do things it was doing before.got to work it shaked twice and cut off when tryin to start it just cranked n cranked.i was alone so i didnt get the chance to check fuel or spark.its had a couple diags but it never throws a code when it does this.while its not starting when trying to use the power windows the int lights turn off n on then if ya push the rear defrost it turns the dome lights off n on.if i just wait 5 to 25 mins itll start back up and eveything will go back to normal.600 in parts got thrown into it last time.the shop said they fixed it but it happens once a month once a week or sumtimes 2 months hot cold doesnt matter.so i cant really figure out how to trouble shoot this n it always does it to us when were alone.i figured it would be electrical but most i could find was my pos bttery terminal is loose n stripped and a 16 gauge ground wire comind from ign coils thats not hooked up.ide appreciate any help yall could give

Does sound like a ground issue, did you fix these and make sure they are clean up and tight.There is a grounding bus under the carpet btween drivers seat and door and the fuel pump ground goes there and if im not mistaken door locks and stuff, take a look at this connector clean it up and add dialectric grease and put it back, it has been aproblem for others.If your carpet is wet underneath as with these cars many do it could cause this.

seems that my floor is almost rusted out.guessing the door seals leak.cleaned up connector n put grase on it.ill haft to wait n see if it fixed the problem.as far as the batt terminals i put a new battery in.thinking i might hat to replace the wires.the terminal connectors while the car is running get so hot they burn my hand even with a glove on still hott enough to hurt ya.

Was the under carpet wet or damp.

yes it was every thing was rusted and corroded.

You will have to find the source of the leak and fix it .Could be trunk , could be doors mine was sunroof drain it runs down A pillar and goes out wheel well.I seen guys take that coonnector you cleaned and take it apart and sand and clean the steel part as it was corroded.Hope it works.

i believe that its coming from driver door seals they have pulled away at the top.so even with door closed i can see outside.