new keyless entry pad

both of my keyless entry pads bit the dust. i just got a new one and i'm curious to know if there is any way to program it myself or do I have to take it to the dealer?

Hi

I was looking for the same information about how to do the programing on the key fobs as well. I posted a question some time ago, but still waiting for a reply. There is got to be some one out there that knows the secret. The dealership is way to expencive for me.

Mike

The dealership is way to expencive for me.

Mike

exactly. i'm going to do some research see what i can find out.

Awww, you two guys are disappointing me :(

A search in this forum for "Program keyless" brings up all sorts or goodies. Here's one from >>> LOL (http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00013.html) <<<

reilly, if your referring to the keyless entry pad on the door panel, there's no programming to be done, the permanent 'code' and your personal 'codes' are stored in the Keyless Entry Module.

For the both of you, the FOBS are programmable very easily when you know your permanent 'code'.

repost for 1995 to 1998?
With that code, you can enter the car, operate the keyless entry system, open and close locks and trunk, and enter a few options into memory, depending on your installed equiptment.

You can get a remote control off eBay relatively cheap depending on current demand, I got four of them for around $12 each. Make sure you bid on the ones advertised for your year. There are two styles, a "peanut" shaped one, and a square one. The "peanut" style was factory original and some are prone to failure, and don't seem to transmit as far as the newer square style. Don't pay someone to program these, it's simple if you follow the steps below. You can't damage anything so go for it.

If you have "memory" buttons on the driver door master control center, you can also program a #1 remote and a #2 remote to preset Driver Seat, and Side Mirror positions. Example: I'm #1, my wife's #2. her remote moves the seat and mirrors to her settings. When I get in, I don't feel like beating someone's ass 'cause my #1 remote moved the seat and mirrors back to where I left them.

So, If you have those memory buttons on the drivers door, you should also shop for a #1, and a #2 remote.


Keyless Entry Keypad

To unlock the driver door, and disarm the anti-theft alarm control (if equipped), enter the permanent factory code or enter the owner's alternate code.

To unlock the passenger door(s), press the 3/4 button within five seconds of unlocking the driver door or luggage compartment.

To unlock the luggage compartment door, press the 5/6 button within five seconds of unlocking driver or passenger door(s).

To turn on the courtesy lamps and light all illuminated components, lift either front door handle or press any button on the keyless entry keypad.

To lock all doors, press the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time with all doors closed. (It is not necessary to enter the key code first.) This will turn off courtesy lamps and arm anti-theft alarm control (if equipped).

To program a transmitter:

Each transmitter to be used with a vehicle must be programmed to the vehicle. Up to four transmitters can be programmed to a single vehicle. All transmitters must be programmed in the same session.

1. Enter the five-digit permanent entry code into keyless entry keypad.

2. Within five seconds, press 1/2 switch.

3. Within five seconds, press any button on the first transmitter. The locks will cycle to confirm successful programming.

4. Within five seconds, press any button on the second transmitter.

5. Repeat Step 3 for each additional transmitter (up to four total).

6. Press 7/8 and 9/0 together to end the programming session or wait more than 7.5 seconds.

To program an alternate code:

(1) Enter the five digit permanent entry code into keyless entry keypad.

(2) Within five seconds of pressing last button of permanent code, press the 1/2 button and enter any alternate five digit code within five seconds of pressing 1/2 button.

(3) Enter a sixth digit as follows to indicate operator's memory seat setting to be recalled by alternate code:

9/0--no memory recall

1/2--memory seat position 1

3/4--memory seat position 2

5/6--memory seat position 3

(4) After successful programming, the doors will signal by locking and then unlocking.

repost for 1991 to 1994
Turn ignition to RUN or ACC. Momentarily jump pins in programming connector located behind the glove box. All doors will lock then unlock to confirm programming mode. Press any button on 1st transmitter. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. Press any button on 2nd transmitter (up to 4 transmitters total possible). Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.

repost 1998 + ?
Cycle Ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 3 seconds, ending in RUN. All doors will lock then unlock to confirm programming mode. Press any button on 1st remote transmitter. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. Press any button on 2nd transmitter ( up to 4 transmitters total possible ). Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.

haha steve, i don't know what i would do without you. and i was talking about the remote transmitter. thanks a lot!

Yes you are right Steve I should have done a search on the subject. I am going to try that programing, sounds like it won't be to bad.

Mike

Hello Steve

My car would fall into the 91 to 94 section. I looked behind the glove box and didn't see any loose connectors. Do I have to unplug something to jumper the wires into program mode?

Thanks Mike

Yes you are right Steve I should have done a search on the subject. I am going to try that programing, sounds like it won't be to bad.

Mike

No problem, I was just ribbin you two :)

Your early 90's models might be more difficult than our late 90's models, just because you have to find that programming jumper, I've never seen one so I can't help you there.

I have 4 remotes for my TC, 2 peanut style and 2 box style. All mine have the Mem1 or Mem2 switches on the back sides.

Here's one of the box style w/the switch:
http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/thumbs/SqFobMem2ft1.jpg (http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/SqFobMem2ft1.jpg) http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/thumbs/SqFobMem2bk.jpg (http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/SqFobMem2bk.jpg)

And here's the peanut style:
http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/thumbs/peanutstyle.jpg (http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/peanutstyle.jpg)

Ya we deserved the ribbin. I just dug up my remote and it's the basic square box type with the lock unlock trunk and panic. I have seen folks selling them on e bay including the instructions. It probally would be easier to buy one and program the new one and the one I have. That way I could get the pin jumper location. My car does have the memory seat, that would be cool not to have beat someones ass as well.

Mike

It probally would be easier to buy one and program the new one and the one I have. That way I could get the pin jumper location.

I'm running through every resource I can think of right now, trying to get a better idea where/what that jumper connector looks like.

Patience grasshopper :)

Patience grasshopper :)

1994 success story:
Programming a replacement remote involved accessing a small connector behind the glovebox, shorting the two contacts together and pressing the new remote lock and unlock one time each. :)
Retired Space Shuttle avionics engineering tech, computer/display systems.
1994 Signature, 141,000 miles, the Big Blue Bus.

Interesting Page:
http://v8sho.com/SHO/Remote%20Keyless%20Entry%20TSB%2097-24-13.htm

Wow, that jumper picture is one elusive SOB :banghead: :banghead:

I need a soda break :)

Hi Steve

Thanks for beating the bushes looking for that picture of the jumper connector. I checked out that link, it had some good information but was vague on describing the connector. Sounds to me like I need to look for a connector with only two wires. There are several modules back there, I will have to look again. I'll let you know what I find.

Mike

http://cmasalvage.com/program_jumper.jpg

Ok, here is what I found. On my 93 parts car I found the jumper behind the glove box. See pic. I jumped the pins and it cycled the locks like it is supposed to. However I found out that my remote is junk and will need to be replaced. sreilly77 check out this pic, yours might look like this. It's located on the right side behind the glove box. It's a flat grey connector with two large pins inside it.

On the 91 there is no such connector behind the glovebox. On that link that Steve posted I noticed some cars have that jumper by the st column base. That is where I will look next. This is the car I wanted to set up for the remote, so I will keep looking.

Thanks Mike

sreilly77 check out this pic, yours might look like this. It's located on the right side behind the glove box. It's a flat grey connector with two large pins inside it.

On the 91 there is no such connector behind the glovebox. On that link that Steve posted I noticed some cars have that jumper by the st column base. That is where I will look next. This is the car I wanted to set up for the remote, so I will keep looking.

Thanks Mike


i see what your talking about. i have had my glove box taken off before when i was doing my heater core and i didn't notice that set up in the picture you have avaliable. either its not there or i just didn't notice it. when these rains stop eventually, i'll take it out again and see if the set up is the same as your TC. i know my year TC is the first year they redesigned them and kept that type of model for 95, 96, and 97. ill keep you posted on what i find.

by the way, you don't have to call me sreilly. i never mentioned that my name is sean hahaha

On the 91 there is no such connector behind the glovebox. On that link that Steve posted I noticed some cars have that jumper by the st column base. That is where I will look next. This is the car I wanted to set up for the remote, so I will keep looking.

Thanks Mike

Hey Mike,
I did see a few posts where the jumper was located in the trunk, on the drivers side, just behind the carpet panel. On these models, there was reference to the Keyless Module also mounted there. Ours has the KEM mounted inside the drivers door.

Hey Mike,
I did see a few posts where the jumper was located in the trunk, on the drivers side, just behind the carpet panel. On these models, there was reference to the Keyless Module also mounted there. Ours has the KEM mounted inside the drivers door.

thats where i thought it was in the drivers door.

Ok Sean

Yes I am a few year models behind you and Steve. Hopefully the connectors will be the same and easy to spot. I had to look twice before I found the one on the 93. I did read on that link that some of the jumper locations were in the trunk. I'll have to look there as well. Where did you get your new remotes Sean? I looked on e bay today and didn't see any listed for the 91 specificly.

Mike

Ok Sean

Yes I am a few year models behind you and Steve. Hopefully the connectors will be the same and easy to spot. I had to look twice before I found the one on the 93. I did read on that link that some of the jumper locations were in the trunk. I'll have to look there as well. Where did you get your new remotes Sean? I looked on e bay today and didn't see any listed for the 91 specificly.

Mike


thats where i got it...on ebay. it was specifically for 95 and 96 TC. i'm not sure if the transmitters are the same for 91. ill look around see what i can find. today i am going to see if i can program it after i get home from work. ill let you know how i make out.

Hi Sean

We're fairly well informed on the subject now. Good luck on the programing, post the results on how it goes. I checked in the drivers side trunk last night and didn't see that program connector. The only loose connector I found was on the passenger side trunk area near the RAS module. That seems like some sort of test port for that system. I'll be away from the computer for a while,so talk to you guys later.

Mike

Hi Sean

We're fairly well informed on the subject now. Good luck on the programing, post the results on how it goes. I checked in the drivers side trunk last night and didn't see that program connector. The only loose connector I found was on the passenger side trunk area near the RAS module. That seems like some sort of test port for that system. I'll be away from the computer for a while,so talk to you guys later.

Mike


good luck, ill keep ya's posted

ok i tried programming it today with the instructions provided. it is not working. i dont know what is going on. i have the keypad and im trying to program it through there like the instructions say but when i put in my code and then hit the 1\2 button, the locks are supposed to cycle and they are not. the keypad is functional but i do not know what the problem is.

Be SURE your using just the permanent code from the module or trunk sticker. A personal code will not work for programming.

http://cmasalvage.com/program_jumper.jpg

Ok, here is what I found. On my 93 parts car I found the jumper behind the glove box. See pic. I jumped the pins and it cycled the locks like it is supposed to. However I found out that my remote is junk and will need to be replaced. sreilly77 check out this pic, yours might look like this. It's located on the right side behind the glove box. It's a flat grey connector with two large pins inside it.

On the 91 there is no such connector behind the glovebox. On that link that Steve posted I noticed some cars have that jumper by the st column base. That is where I will look next. This is the car I wanted to set up for the remote, so I will keep looking.

Thanks Mike

Mike, my TC has the jumper pins like that behind the glove box. i tried a jumper with a paperclip and it didnt work...sooo right now im at a lost. how did you jumper the pins?

No problem, I was just ribbin you two :)

Your early 90's models might be more difficult than our late 90's models, just because you have to find that programming jumper, I've never seen one so I can't help you there.

I have 4 remotes for my TC, 2 peanut style and 2 box style. All mine have the Mem1 or Mem2 switches on the back sides.

Here's one of the box style w/the switch:
http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/thumbs/SqFobMem2ft1.jpg (http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/SqFobMem2ft1.jpg) http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/thumbs/SqFobMem2bk.jpg (http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/SqFobMem2bk.jpg)

And here's the peanut style:
http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/thumbs/peanutstyle.jpg (http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Members/sdhartney/images/peanutstyle.jpg)


steve, im having a hard time programming my remote. i have the box one because i called a dealer and they said they do not make the peanut style anymore. how did u go about programming you square transmitters? i did use the permanent factory code from the trunk. also checked the module inside the driver door itself and it was the same code. i punch in the code till the driver side door unlocks and i go to hit the 1/2 button and nothing happens. but if i hit it like 5 or 6 times then the locks cycle. im totally confused.

steve, im having a hard time programming my remote.

The Peanut style was prone to problems and their only found on eBay now. I was lucky to find several NOS units. The square one works from a greater distance, but I like the style of the peanut better.

After pressing all those buttons to get your locks to cycle, that's confirming that you are exiting the programming mode.

I believe you're doing everything correctly and the battery may be dead, or you have an incompatable remote.

You entered your code, then pressed 1/2. That's correct.
Then you pressed any button on your new remote and waited..... That's correct too.

Your system should have responded to that remote right away by cycling the locks twice. If that didn't happen that remote dosn't work, or is not compatable with your module, about 8 seconds go bye and the system exits programming mode on it's own, or you can end the mode yourself with a 7/8 9/0 response.

I have an old p-nut style remote wth the keyring loop broken off, it still works fine. If you'd like I can send it to you for testing purposes.

The Peanut style was prone to problems and their only found on eBay now. I was lucky to find several NOS units. The square one works from a greater distance, but I like the style of the peanut better.

After pressing all those buttons to get your locks to cycle, that's confirming that you are exiting the programming mode.

I believe you're doing everything correctly and the battery may be dead, or you have an incompatable remote.

You entered your code, then pressed 1/2. That's correct.
Then you pressed any button on your new remote and waited..... That's correct too.

Your system should have responded to that remote right away by cycling the locks twice. If that didn't happen that remote dosn't work, or is not compatable with your module, about 8 seconds go bye and the system exits programming mode on it's own, or you can end the mode yourself with a 7/8 9/0 response.

I have an old p-nut style remote wth the keyring loop broken off, it still works fine. If you'd like I can send it to you for testing purposes.



it turned out that the transmitter that i got is defective. i tested it and it was not responding at all. i also put a new battery in it and it still was not responding. so i ordered another one and will return the one i bought (it has a 180 day no questions asked warrenty). however, if you could send me the old peanut style one for testing purposes, that would be great. send me an email at [email protected] and i can send you my contact information. i'd really appreciate it. thanks.

Happy 4th of July!

steve, got your transmitter today, and i got the new one i ordered also. they both work great. thanks!!!! you da man!!!!

steve, got your transmitter today, and i got the new one i ordered also. they both work great. thanks!!!! you da man!!!!


Good news :) All's well that ends well :)

Keep the dogbone if you want, I don't use it much and it's a good spare.

Good news :) All's well that ends well :)

Keep the dogbone if you want, I don't use it much and it's a good spare.


thanks a lot. i owe you one

How would i find the moudule for a transmiter on a 92 town car Executive

How would i find the moudule for a transmiter on a 92 town car Executive

Assuming you're speaking of the transmitter FOB, your's would look like this one for '92 '93 '94 Conti's, '93 '94 TC's:

http://i20.ebayimg.com/01/i/07/91/b3/8e_1_b.JPG

Their a bit pricy now, around $25 on eBay, unless you can find another outlet in your area, eBay's your only hope.

>>> Search eBay (http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&from=R10&mppfqy=Lincoln+%281992%2C+92%29+%28Remote%2C+Fob%2 C+Keyless%2C+Towncar%2C+Town+Car%29&mppfqy=Lincoln+%281992%2C+92%29+%28Remote%2C+Fob%2 C+Keyless%2C+Towncar%2C+Town+Car%29&catref=C6&satitle=%28Towncar%2C+Town+Car%29+%281992%2C+92%29 +%28Remote%2C+Fob%2C+Keyless%29&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&bs=Search&fsop=1&fsoo=1&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=ZIP%2FPostal&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=) <<<


One problem though, I can't recall which year, I believe it was mid 1991 when the first remote was available to the Town Car as an option. If your 1992 didn't have the option installed, I don't know if you can add remote now?

Depends on whether Ford put in the full wire harness for the system, or not. If you have the jumper plug behind the glovebox like Mike showed us earlier in this thread, chances are the full harness is there too. If that's the case, you may have a Remote Module installed already where all you need is the Remote Transmitter (key fob).

Is there any way to verify if my Towncar came with a factory keyless entry or did all Towncars come standard with keyless entry? I own a 1994 Towncar Signature Series and it has keylees buttons on the outside of the Drivers door!

Is there any way to verify if my Towncar came with a factory keyless entry or did all Towncars come standard with keyless entry? I own a 1994 Towncar Signature Series and it has keylees buttons on the outside of the Drivers door!


Your 1994 with the keypad does have remote control entry as well.

Make sure you get the correct remote control(s), program the car to them as described earlier in this thread.

Your 1994 with the keypad does have remote control entry as well.

Make sure you get the correct remote control(s), program the car to them as described earlier in this thread.
Thanks alot! You seem to be the person t go to in this forum :bigthumb: !

Hello
Sean and Steve

This thread has grown quite a bit in a month. My account got screwed up when the computer hard drive bit the dust, I had to get a new name to log back on. The lousy admin. would not lift a finger to help me get the old lz7x account fixed. :nono:

Any way I just picked up a 96 Crown Vic. and it has two of the peanut style fobs. I'll have some fun playing around with programing, now that I have some good fobs.
yes, I Now believe that my 91 TC dosen't have the key fob option. I talked to my local lock smith, he looked it up and couldn't find any info on the key fobs for that year TC. Keep up the good work guys.

Mike

Hello
Sean and Steve

This thread has grown quite a bit in a month. My account got screwed up when the computer hard drive bit the dust, I had to get a new name to log back on. The lousy admin. would not lift a finger to help me get the old lz7x account fixed. :nono:

Any way I just picked up a 96 Crown Vic. and it has two of the peanut style fobs. I'll have some fun playing around with programing, now that I have some good fobs.
yes, I Now believe that my 91 TC dosen't have the key fob option. I talked to my local lock smith, he looked it up and couldn't find any info on the key fobs for that year TC. Keep up the good work guys.

Mike


glad to see your back. as mentioned, my new transmitters are working great. 96 crown vic huh? i love the crown vics i used to have a 92...i really miss it. but it started having all these electrical problems so i just sold it to someone who wanted to fix it. it only had 84,000 miles on it. i loved it it just never quit. i think the guy i sold it for took the engine and put it into a 93 crown vic and he says it still runs fantastic. i love the crown vics they don't quit at any time.