Hows your interior sound?

Does is sound like its going to fall apart when youre driving down the road?

absolutely. door panels rattle constantly and rear tailgate sounds like its gonna come off after every bump.

absolutely. door panels rattle constantly and rear tailgate sounds like its gonna come off after every bump.


I have lots of mat type sound deadening throughout mine, and its made little difference. I think my main problem is plastic hitting metal- so every panel that can be removed, will be removed- and reattached with carpet padding on the back of it.

mine sounded great when i got it a few days ago. now it sounds better with two kenwood subs and a panasonic deck in the back.

Oh hell yeah, dash rattles, door panels, tailgate, front end has popping noise every so often (think its the shocks). Waiting to get my accord on the road so i can strip the blazer for paint, gonna spray sound deadener all over the inside.

Oh hell yeah, dash rattles, door panels, tailgate, front end has popping noise every so often (think its the shocks). Waiting to get my accord on the road so i can strip the blazer for paint, gonna spray sound deadener all over the inside.


Youll still have rattles........trust me. Probably a good 4 gallons around my truck, plus the mat.
Seems like its plastic on plastic, and metal on plastic rattles that are my main problem now.

use a caulk around the panels to seal them to the metal further. Worked for me.


Anyone have a spare tire swing arm on the back? 80% of my rattles were from that.

I got tired of my drivers door panel rattling despite news trim clips. One small piece of tissue jammed under the bottom corner of the door trim between the trim and the door panel helped. I ran a sheet metal screw with a cup washer in the top rear corner and that shut it up. I guess I could get fancy and put a bit of red paint on the screw to match the trim one day. Right now I am just glad to kill the worst rattle.


Mark

wow good thing im not the only one with this problem.......... How do you fix this??? New shocks helped alot but I still have major problems from the rear window and all the panels.............

Rear window is a loose latch, ive seen people wrap a couple wraps of electrical tape around it and it fixes the problem. My old one would drive me insane, it was funny to watch when my subs would hit.

I have to slam the rear window shut or it can go into a terrible rattling mode. Slamming seems to prevent the rattling mode.

My 89 i have to slam only because some county workers wanted to see what was on the inside, dumbasses broke the lock on the rear and my drivers side. Damn truck was unlocked in my driveway, up on jackstands with no rear. They wont be doing any road work for a while now.

electrical tape is the only way i can fix the back window from rattling...... the only problem is then the switch to unlatch the window wont work. Eventually the latch eats away at the tape too from all the opening and closing

I cant even tell if the back window rattles.......
Too many rattles closer to me. :frown:

Anyone have any great tips to stop all these rattles?

Rattles? I'm sure mine does, but as loud as I tend to run my stereo, I wouldn't know it. And I'm in the high-end car audio business, so that's saying something. It might be about to fall into a billion pieces and I wouldn't know it...

Rattles? I'm sure mine does, but as loud as I tend to run my stereo, I wouldn't know it. And I'm in the high-end car audio business, so that's saying something. It might be about to fall into a billion pieces and I wouldn't know it...


I have a quite powerful setup as well (pair of RE HC 12"s powered by an IA 20.1), but the rattles just annoy me.

I did find a pretty good fix- went to autozone and got a roll of the peel and stick weatherstripping- I put it anywhere the panels felt loose, or as though they might vibrate.
A $8 roll did most of my hatch and the cargo area sides, and it made quite an improvement.

Passenger Door Rattles but all i have to do is give it a good smack and it stops. Its the worn pins but really the only thing that rattles really bad is the stupid center console.


The only thing that rattles is my Side Mirrors and my roof + rack. I'm running 2 Kicker CVX's 12' at 1 ohm each pushing 3600 watts from 2 digital Monoblock Performance Teknique Amps and Kicker Componet's On the doors and 2 6x9 Pioneers on the dash.

Im making a new center console out of fiberglass, with cup holders and some other things in it GPS, dvd player, original nintendo (old school all the way)and maybe a carputer if im that bored. Broke it putting a keg in the back seat, no room in that back thanks to sub box and amps.

I pulled the roof rack off, the rear tire holder, and all the trim. Working on shaving it and getting my new wheels, z06 chrome vette wheels.

No rattles on mine, though I install the hood washers and properly adjusted the tailgate bumpers so the door was tight.

Also install new panel push in clips in the doors and it will quieten down a bit.

No rattles on mine, though I install the hood washers and properly adjusted the tailgate bumpers so the door was tight.

Also install new panel push in clips in the doors and it will quieten down a bit.


I just tighten my hood periodically.
I do need new door clips......maybe Ill do that tomorrow.
How do I know if I need to adjust the tailgate bumpers?

Tightening the hood bolts will NOT take the play out of them, you need the washers to do it properly.

The rear bumpers are easy to check, just look at see if they are snug when the door is closed.

oh and my air vents in the back (behind the black molding peices) flap. Its the rubber flaps inside of it.

Im making a new center console out of fiberglass, with cup holders and some other things in it GPS, dvd player, original nintendo (old school all the way)and maybe a carputer if im that bored. Broke it putting a keg in the back seat, no room in that back thanks to sub box and amps.


I would love to see it when its done along with a little how-to outlining how you did it. I hate the stock console.

Ive got the base outline done sides, bottom just havent started with the top, or holding areas. Same basic desing as the factory one just no top, and its a little shorter. Used cardboard to make a template. Still really rough looking but its in the works. I havent worked on it in about 2 weeks ive been busy as hell.

oh and my air vents in the back (behind the black molding peices) flap. Its the rubber flaps inside of it.


Any harm in taking these out, and covering the holes?
I never knew what purpose they serve.

wow good thing im not the only one with this problem.......... How do you fix this??? New shocks helped alot but I still have major problems from the rear window and all the panels.............

Second Skin is regarded as one of the best adhesive sound deadener out there.

*edit*

My 89 ext cab S-10 only rattle just a little around in the door panels at the door handles, 156k miles and the last 60k+ its had to travel dirt roads ALOT.

Anybody rattling ought to try some Dynamat. We install it pretty regularly, it's great stuff, not only helps with rattles but shuts out road noise. It'a amazing if done right and thouroughly.

My advice would be go ahead and get the Extreme. Works better and is MUCH MUCH MUCH easier to put on than the Original, which not only requires a heat gun, it also requires a very high tolerance for pain in the butt. Extreme is actually quite easy to install.

Whenever I get a chance and the extra cash (it ain't cheap) I'm going to do my whole interior.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=12655

Not a bad price for 36 sq. ft. I need to get some as well

Yes same here, it seems the interior clips are not worth replacing. I
went on a roadtrip in 1996 the truck was just a few month olds and
when I hit a bump or gravel road it sounds like the entire truck is
falling apart. GM says Its Normal, I said See you in Court!!
The case was won by LemonLaw NJ in 1998
GM Dealership paid $1000 to replace the interior including labor..
I have 90000 on the truck and when its time to junk it, I will never
buy another GM Product ever again...
ps, if you intend to replace the interior it comes in 2 pieces and the clips
are not included..
Total Price for Interior for each side panel $500.00 dollars, with clips
installed $675.00
Buy a Toyota they are as silent as a lamb..

Ever hear of ebay, and you can get the push clips from advanced auto parts for 5 bucks. I had a toyota that thing was pretty quite, excpet everything on the interior would break if you looked at it wrong. Broke the center console a month after i bought it, dash started cracking before i wrecked it, exhaust broke at flexpipe, muffler fell off when i hit a pot hole. I loved the little car but it wasnt exaclty built to last. Couldnt kill the motor or trans either. Got hit by an 00 blazer and well the car was sent to be made back into beer cans.

Dynamat will not stop the interior rattles, only replacing the push clips will solve it.

I also use small screws in the lower panels to secure them really well.

Yea and no thanks about buying a toyota. My sister got rearended at 20 mph and the car was almost totaled and the car was only 4 weeks old. My blazer got smacked at near 60 and did a 360 on the freeway and half way up a dirt hill and it was only 5k in damage. Ehhhhhhhhhh I will stick with gm . door clips arnt enough for me to switch.

BTW it was a corolla XRS

So what about the rear window, how do you fix that one besides using electrical tape?

Yea and no thanks about buying a toyota. My sister got rearended at 20 mph and the car was almost totaled and the car was only 4 weeks old. My blazer got smacked at near 60 and did a 360 on the freeway and half way up a dirt hill and it was only 5k in damage. Ehhhhhhhhhh I will stick with gm . door clips arnt enough for me to switch.

BTW it was a corolla XRS

That is the difference between cab on frame construction and unibody.

exactly. Plus i feel alot safer know that my bumpers are metal not styrofoam

exactly. Plus i feel alot safer know that my bumpers are metal not styrofoam

Actually, don't get too confident in our construction.

The Toyota design is made to absorb impact energy instead of having the driver take the beating.

well my sister was out of work for 1 week and i went to work the next day.


DONT KILL MY SENSE OF SECRUITY !!! lol

Ultrshock you can try putting a washer in between the latch and the window to space the latch out, thats what i did in my 89, only thing that rattles now is the damn wing when my bass hits.


Yeah mine was a 91 corolla not the newest but when i got it everything was damn near mint condition. I got hit pretty hard at least 50mph bent the a-frame, axle, moved the transmission 4 inches and the unibody went from a straight line to a 45 degree angle, looked pretty funny. Insurane company said it was my fault cause i didnt stop, iwas waiting to turn for 5 minutes, woman was coming with her turn signal on so i gun next thing i know that car turned complately around and my head hit the damn window frame. Yeah it hurt. Oh well got my first blazer after this one.

DO NOT BUY DYNAMAT!
It is severely overpriced........unless you like paying much more for similiar results.
Take a look at this:
www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

Also, try the thing about putting weatherstripping where panels can knock into each other. It made quite the difference for me.