AC problem - no cold air

When I turn the AC to Max or just regular setting, and the temp knob is set to cold, i don't get cold air. I noticed that the AC compressor clutch does not engage. From what I have read on the web, one person replaced the CCRM and this fixed his problem. Appearently, the CCRM ($150.00) controls the signal going to the clutch magnet that causes the compressor to run. But i'm not 100% sure if this is the same problem that I'm having.

I will check the pressure switches to make sure that they are working properly. I don't want to spend over $350.00 worth of parts (reman. AC compressor, accumulator/receiver-drier, orifice tube/thermal expansion valve, couple cans of R134a refrigerant, and some other misc. parts like o-rings), so first I will check out the electrical side of the system.

If any one has any ideas... please let me know. Thanks in advance.

also check pressure in system could be low from slow leak. I've seen cheap tools similiar to tire gauge for 3 to 5 dollars at discount stores.

if u need a CCRM, you can ask around on ZX2 forums or check in a junk yard, you can get them cheaper then at ford.

this is so weird.... it worked last night for like 5 min.
after I disconnected the battery (i thought it might reset the computer) and then hooked it back up:
the compressor kicked-in and cold air started to come out from the vents. Also, the refrigerant lines were cold. At this point I quickly connected the refrigerant re-charging can (R-134a). I noticed that the pressure was in the Blue area (which means you don't need to add any refrigerant), so I left it alone. (before the compressor kicked-in, the pressure was around 100 PSI) But like I said, after 5 min. or so, the compressor no longer engaged, therefore, the air started to get warm... sucks. I checked the low-side pressure switch and it was fine. But I don't know how to check the high-side because the pressure switch has 3 pins, so I don't know which are supposed to be normally opened/closed. Is there an electrical schematic any where?

Wiring diagrams are available in Haynes manuals. If you do not wish to purchase a manual try your local library. Many schools and libraries subscribe to online databases that can be accessed through the school or library website if you have a student or library card number.

You can also try www.autozone.com and see if they have a repair guide with a diagram available for your car.

i found this on another forum:

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=29744

i'll try to diagnose the CCRM tonight, i'll let you know how i made out.

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well... i checked the voltage on pins 21, 22, and 23 for the CCRM and 23 was the only one that did not have voltage. I think that the CCRM might be bad....but i'll do some more tests before i commit to spending about $200.00 on a new CCRM. (or i might try to repair it, if i figure out exactly what the problem is)

OK I finally got it fixed....

After reading many, many posts... :banghead:
this one finally made sense:

http://acsource.net/acforum/viewtopic.php?p=9869#9869

Thanks to GM Tech's post...

Connecting a normally closed (N/C) relay in parallel with the CCRM's "WOT A/C CUTOFF RELAY (N/C)" will fix this problem if the CCRM's relay is bad.

This fix saved me $187.00.... and I'm really gald that it worked... thanks GM Tech and the other members for your help... it's greatly appreciated.

See:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=504830

Paul

That was funny.... a CCRM that 'thinks'... good stuff

Hi I think I'm having the same problem with my AC on a 1998 ZX2. Could someone please explain to me where the CCRM is located and what it looks like so I can attempt to replace it?

Thank you,
Blain

explain your exact problem. the CCRM is located under the air filter housing.

The AC blows cold right at first, but eventually the compressor quits running and the AC blows warm air only.

I found the CCRM and tested the voltage on the #23 pin and it showed 12V when the compressor was running, but once the compressor kicked out, I tested the voltage on the #23 pin again and it showed no voltage.


I was then going to attempt to take the CCRM apart, but it looks like I will have to remove each wire first before being able to separate the green cap from the rest of the module. Is there another way to do this? Or how should I go about trying to see if it's able to be fixed?

Thanks,
Blain

I found the CCRM and tested the voltage on the #23 pin and it showed 12V when the compressor was running, but once the compressor kicked out, I tested the voltage on the #23 pin again and it showed no voltage.


I was then going to attempt to take the CCRM apart, but it looks like I will have to remove each wire first before being able to separate the green cap from the rest of the module. Is there another way to do this? Or how should I go about trying to see if it's able to be fixed?

Thanks,
Blain


Before you take the thing apart and tear it up.
Check for low freon and pressure switches.
And say no to them death kits.

Wal Mart DEATH KITS

You cannot properly and safely recharge an air condition system with them.

The one side stop and go gauge does not tell you what your system is doing or is over charged or undercharged.
A overcharged or malfunction air condition system can reach over 500 lbs of pressure.
Enough to blow up that can or system and freeze you at first and the burn you or blind you and if any propane /butane in there blow and light you up.

The stop leak crap and who knows what kind of oil in the kits there will stop your system for sure.
Just like pouring super glue in it.
And some kits even contain freon with a butane mixer.
Good for a big blast.

If you are going to do it do it right and safe.
Here is what you need to start with.
http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=66773

In the older days you could just throw in a can and go.
But over the years just adding freon is getting harder to do.
Newer systems have to have the correct amount of freon down to the ounces.
Most will need pumped down and vacuumed down and the right and amount of oil and a set amount freon charge installed to get the air to cool right and the system to last.
If an air condition is low there is usually a leak that needs fixed and also a lose of lubricating oil from system.
Also air and moisture enters a low system
If you are going to try to do it get the proper type air condition gauge set with the low and high side gauges.
Hook up the gauges and get a reading with compressor running at idle and at 2000 rpm on the high and low side.
Post back pressure reading and we can help you.
MT

OK, I'm on my second CCRM repair, so I guess that makes me an expert on this problem. :grinyes:

I bought this 98 ZX2 new. The original CCRM went bad in 2001. Te replacement went bad this summer.

The problem is that the small relay in the CCRM goes bad. The relay contact burned right through the plastic case of the relay. The heat caused a bad solder connection where the relay contact attaches to the board. If you just re-solder this connection, the AC may start working, but to do the job right, requires that the relay be replaced. The original relay is no longer available, but I found a usable replacement by another manufacturer.
The digi-key part # is 255-1239-nd. (www.digi-key.com)

TO test the CCRM, check for 0 Volts at pin 22 of the CCRM (AC on). The computer sends a low to this pin to signal the compressor to come on. You should have 12V on Pin 21, and Pin 23. If the relay contact is bad, you will have 12V at pin 21, but not on pin 23.

Now for the legal stuff. If you have no clue what I just wrote, please don't attempt this repair. Applying this info improperly could permanantly damage the compressor. Attempt this ONLY if you are comfortable troubleshooting & repairing electronics to the component level.

Good luck.

TVGuy07

OK, I'm on my second CCRM repair, so I guess that makes me an expert on this problem. :grinyes:

I bought this 98 ZX2 new. The original CCRM went bad in 2001. Te replacement went bad this summer.

The problem is that the small relay in the CCRM goes bad. The relay contact burned right through the plastic case of the relay. The heat caused a bad solder connection where the relay contact attaches to the board. If you just re-solder this connection, the AC may start working, but to do the job right, requires that the relay be replaced. The original relay is no longer available, but I found a usable replacement by another manufacturer.
The digi-key part # is 255-1239-nd. (www.digi-key.com)

TO test the CCRM, check for 0 Volts at pin 22 of the CCRM (AC on). The computer sends a low to this pin to signal the compressor to come on. You should have 12V on Pin 21, and Pin 23. If the relay contact is bad, you will have 12V at pin 21, but not on pin 23.

Now for the legal stuff. If you have no clue what I just wrote, please don't attempt this repair. Applying this info improperly could permanantly damage the compressor. Attempt this ONLY if you are comfortable troubleshooting & repairing electronics to the component level.

Good luck.

TVGuy07


And remember if it keeps on blowing it a bad fan blower motor that pulls to many amps will wipe them out.
Always check the amp draw on the fan blower motor.
MT