86 SE cooling problems
lhomen
06-23-2006, 07:16 PM
So my SE is finally up and running strong.. however after my wife took it to work this morning, she noticed that it is running hot (220 or so this morning)
Now then I am suspecting either the fan switch relay or the fan itself, however I wanted to run this past you guys to see if there is something else I should look at.
thanks for any help you can offer.
-john
Now then I am suspecting either the fan switch relay or the fan itself, however I wanted to run this past you guys to see if there is something else I should look at.
thanks for any help you can offer.
-john
Old Lar
06-25-2006, 08:53 AM
The temperatures gauges in the Fiero are notoriously inaccurate. Turn the AC on if so equipped, to see if the fan turns on. It should come on with the AC on.
It seems to me that my Fiero's fan come on around 220 on the gauge, at that time the temperature gauge shows a drop in temp.
Does your temperature climb higher than 220?
It seems to me that my Fiero's fan come on around 220 on the gauge, at that time the temperature gauge shows a drop in temp.
Does your temperature climb higher than 220?
'88 Dread GT
06-25-2006, 11:27 AM
A stock fan switch won't turn your fan on untill 220-225.
I would first check your coolant level. I recommend getting your cooling system flushed if your car hasn't been running for a while. Fiero's are notorious for running hot. The temp gauge is usually wrong on mine and is usually the case on most. The only time you REALLY know it's too hot to drive is when the temp warning light comes on.
Waterpump! Make sure there's no whining noise when your engine is running. With the engine off try grabbing the waterpump pulley and see if you can shake it at all. you shouldn't if it's good. If it is able to wiggle then the shaft inside the pump is no good.
For my '88 GT I bought the Hypertech low temp fan switch and thermostat. I also bought the Hypertech chip that accompanies them but you don't really need that. I've had them in for 4 years and they've worked like a charm. The fan comes on at around 180 degrees now.
=-Dread
I would first check your coolant level. I recommend getting your cooling system flushed if your car hasn't been running for a while. Fiero's are notorious for running hot. The temp gauge is usually wrong on mine and is usually the case on most. The only time you REALLY know it's too hot to drive is when the temp warning light comes on.
Waterpump! Make sure there's no whining noise when your engine is running. With the engine off try grabbing the waterpump pulley and see if you can shake it at all. you shouldn't if it's good. If it is able to wiggle then the shaft inside the pump is no good.
For my '88 GT I bought the Hypertech low temp fan switch and thermostat. I also bought the Hypertech chip that accompanies them but you don't really need that. I've had them in for 4 years and they've worked like a charm. The fan comes on at around 180 degrees now.
=-Dread
lhomen
06-25-2006, 07:22 PM
Well, my wife said that she could smell the anti-freeze coming form the front of the car, and hear the water boiling. I have not experienced this, however so far I have only made short trips in the car (30 minutes or less).
She has a 45 minute commute, part on a country lane, part on a major boulevard.. when the car gets into traffic, it starts to run hot.. once she is on the country lane, it cools down again. I have not check the water pump, however with the engine only getting hot once the car is in traffic, and then cooling once she is in the open tells me that the WP is swapping out the water in the engine.
Where is the fan switch located? I have both a Haynes and a Chilton manual, and neither of them have any clear info that I can locate.. PLEASE HELP!!
-john
She has a 45 minute commute, part on a country lane, part on a major boulevard.. when the car gets into traffic, it starts to run hot.. once she is on the country lane, it cools down again. I have not check the water pump, however with the engine only getting hot once the car is in traffic, and then cooling once she is in the open tells me that the WP is swapping out the water in the engine.
Where is the fan switch located? I have both a Haynes and a Chilton manual, and neither of them have any clear info that I can locate.. PLEASE HELP!!
-john
lhomen
06-25-2006, 07:32 PM
The temperatures gauges in the Fiero are notoriously inaccurate. Turn the AC on if so equipped, to see if the fan turns on. It should come on with the AC on.
It seems to me that my Fiero's fan come on around 220 on the gauge, at that time the temperature gauge shows a drop in temp.
Does your temperature climb higher than 220?
FANTASTIC advice. This worked, so now I know that the fan does function.. how does the thermal switch work in conjunction with this? I do have 2 observations about the AC.. one is that I can hear the compressor “squealing” once I turn the AC one, the other is that my volt gauge goes from 13 to about 11.. not good. I suspect that I have some other electrical issues (car has been out of commission for 2 years for electrical problems, mostly associated to the distributor module I suspect) as the volt meter will dip with each “blink” of the turn signal. The AC also needs to be recharged.. and I am thinking that these cars use the R12 refrigerant.. so that complicate things as well..
-john
Also, Laura said that she would not let the temp go above 220, she would turn the heater on to help cool the motor down..
It seems to me that my Fiero's fan come on around 220 on the gauge, at that time the temperature gauge shows a drop in temp.
Does your temperature climb higher than 220?
FANTASTIC advice. This worked, so now I know that the fan does function.. how does the thermal switch work in conjunction with this? I do have 2 observations about the AC.. one is that I can hear the compressor “squealing” once I turn the AC one, the other is that my volt gauge goes from 13 to about 11.. not good. I suspect that I have some other electrical issues (car has been out of commission for 2 years for electrical problems, mostly associated to the distributor module I suspect) as the volt meter will dip with each “blink” of the turn signal. The AC also needs to be recharged.. and I am thinking that these cars use the R12 refrigerant.. so that complicate things as well..
-john
Also, Laura said that she would not let the temp go above 220, she would turn the heater on to help cool the motor down..
Old Lar
06-26-2006, 09:23 PM
When you turn on the AC, it is normal (at least with my Fieros) for the voltage to drop about that amount. If you have a volt meter check out the reality of the voltage drop.
Squeal is not good. It is the belt slipping when the compressor is turned on. That could be from a not so tight belt adjustment, or the compressor pully is not very free to rotate. If you have R-12 and a bad compressor, it can get pricey to replace the compressor, dryer and accumulator to upgrade to R-34.
You are looking at $1000 to have it done at an AC shop using new components. I've not had good luck with remanufactured compressors.
Do have to cooling system flushed (note special Fiero fill technique required)
Squeal is not good. It is the belt slipping when the compressor is turned on. That could be from a not so tight belt adjustment, or the compressor pully is not very free to rotate. If you have R-12 and a bad compressor, it can get pricey to replace the compressor, dryer and accumulator to upgrade to R-34.
You are looking at $1000 to have it done at an AC shop using new components. I've not had good luck with remanufactured compressors.
Do have to cooling system flushed (note special Fiero fill technique required)
lhomen
06-26-2006, 11:30 PM
When you turn on the AC, it is normal (at least with my Fieros) for the voltage to drop about that amount. If you have a volt meter check out the reality of the voltage drop.
Squeal is not good. It is the belt slipping when the compressor is turned on. That could be from a not so tight belt adjustment, or the compressor pully is not very free to rotate. If you have R-12 and a bad compressor, it can get pricey to replace the compressor, dryer and accumulator to upgrade to R-34.
You are looking at $1000 to have it done at an AC shop using new components. I've not had good luck with remanufactured compressors.
Do have to cooling system flushed (note special Fiero fill technique required)
Cool. I'll check the actual voltage with my voltmeter tomorrow. I'll also check the belts and compressor pully, both make sense.
I am wondering what the special fill technique os for the cooling system flush.. is this something that will be listed in the shop manuals, or somewhere in this fourm?
-john
Squeal is not good. It is the belt slipping when the compressor is turned on. That could be from a not so tight belt adjustment, or the compressor pully is not very free to rotate. If you have R-12 and a bad compressor, it can get pricey to replace the compressor, dryer and accumulator to upgrade to R-34.
You are looking at $1000 to have it done at an AC shop using new components. I've not had good luck with remanufactured compressors.
Do have to cooling system flushed (note special Fiero fill technique required)
Cool. I'll check the actual voltage with my voltmeter tomorrow. I'll also check the belts and compressor pully, both make sense.
I am wondering what the special fill technique os for the cooling system flush.. is this something that will be listed in the shop manuals, or somewhere in this fourm?
-john
'88 Dread GT
06-27-2006, 09:56 AM
Cool. I'll check the actual voltage with my voltmeter tomorrow. I'll also check the belts and compressor pully, both make sense.
I am wondering what the special fill technique os for the cooling system flush.. is this something that will be listed in the shop manuals, or somewhere in this fourm?
-john
The Chilton's manual goes into better detail about flushing and filling the cooling system. The Haynes seemed a bit vague. The special fill technique is due to the engine and radiator being on opposite ends of the car from each other.
As for belts squeeling, mine's (the main belt not the AC belt) been doing that for years. It squeels sometimes when I start it and others when the fan comes on. It seems to do it when something taxes the alternator. My belt is new and the belt tension is perfect. It only does this until the volt gauge needle goes back to where its supposed to be then the squeel stops (about 10 seconds). I'm thinking of geeting a higher amp alternator because I'm adding a factory subwoofer and I already added a CD changer. My stock 85 amp won't cut it.
Ooops, sorry for babbling
=-Dread
I am wondering what the special fill technique os for the cooling system flush.. is this something that will be listed in the shop manuals, or somewhere in this fourm?
-john
The Chilton's manual goes into better detail about flushing and filling the cooling system. The Haynes seemed a bit vague. The special fill technique is due to the engine and radiator being on opposite ends of the car from each other.
As for belts squeeling, mine's (the main belt not the AC belt) been doing that for years. It squeels sometimes when I start it and others when the fan comes on. It seems to do it when something taxes the alternator. My belt is new and the belt tension is perfect. It only does this until the volt gauge needle goes back to where its supposed to be then the squeel stops (about 10 seconds). I'm thinking of geeting a higher amp alternator because I'm adding a factory subwoofer and I already added a CD changer. My stock 85 amp won't cut it.
Ooops, sorry for babbling
=-Dread
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