Stalling probs with a 1990 Bonneville SSE
KaraTagesen
06-23-2006, 06:49 PM
Heyas everyone :evillol:
I'm hoping someone here can help me with my problem. I have a 1990 Bonneville SSE and about a month ago, the harmonic balancer broke. We replaced the balancer and the car would not kick over. Found out it was the cam sensor, so replaced that. Now, the car will start, idle, but when you put it in reverse, or drive, it dies. I can get the car moving and she will stay running for the most part but if I slow down to much, she dies.
I was told to drive the car around for about 10-15 minutes to reset the computer, but that didn't work either.
Anyone have ANY ideas on how to fix this or what is causing this? This car is my only mode of transportation for me and my kids.
Thanks :)
Kara
I'm hoping someone here can help me with my problem. I have a 1990 Bonneville SSE and about a month ago, the harmonic balancer broke. We replaced the balancer and the car would not kick over. Found out it was the cam sensor, so replaced that. Now, the car will start, idle, but when you put it in reverse, or drive, it dies. I can get the car moving and she will stay running for the most part but if I slow down to much, she dies.
I was told to drive the car around for about 10-15 minutes to reset the computer, but that didn't work either.
Anyone have ANY ideas on how to fix this or what is causing this? This car is my only mode of transportation for me and my kids.
Thanks :)
Kara
maxwedge
06-23-2006, 08:16 PM
Try disconnecting the egr for test purposes, clean the throttle body, remove and clean the iac valve in the the throttle body, any or all of these can cause your problem. BTW, welcome to AF.
KaraTagesen
06-23-2006, 11:36 PM
Thank you so much for your prompt reply. We will attempt this in the morning and I'll will keep you posted on whether this works or not.
And thank you for the welcome. This is the best forum i have found on the web so far for Bonnevilles :grinyes:
And thank you for the welcome. This is the best forum i have found on the web so far for Bonnevilles :grinyes:
DrJay
06-26-2006, 04:37 AM
Good advice maxwedge. It seems, though, that the problem really came about after she changed the cam position sensor. Unless I'm misreading her statement that is.
With that we bring about the common and almost unsolvable "human factor." The worst of the problems, the human factor can cause months of heartache even for a minor repair.
I've seen low oil pressure from an incorrectly installed gasket, fuel leakage due to a loose fuel pump, codes due to unplugged sensors, rough idle due to unseated injectors, and a host of other human factor related issues. The real problem is the person doesn't know, it's an accident, so "why am I getting a code 22?!"
Rambling aside, if it ran before you replaced the hub and cam sensor, go back and have another look. It should run without a cam sensor, so unplug it if necessary. Did you set the gap right? Rig up a spacer or anything else home-brew?
If it didn't run right even before replacing those parts, try unplugging your cam sensor anyway and see how that affects it. When you cold start it, do the RPMs jump up to begin the warmup cycle? When you first start it they should jump up to between 1,100 and 1,500 rpm then slowly drop back down. If not then take a good look at your IAC, or Idle Air Control valve. The PCM has no way to tell exactly where it is, it only knows what position it was told to be in. If the valve is dead (very rare) it may be stuck in the closed position. The PCM commands it to fully close when you turn it off so it's possible it's stuck there.
Good luck! Oh and try www.bonnevilleclub.com, generally good people there and most of them have had so many problems they can personally related to just about anything you may run into.
Edit: Very sorry, HER, not his. :D
With that we bring about the common and almost unsolvable "human factor." The worst of the problems, the human factor can cause months of heartache even for a minor repair.
I've seen low oil pressure from an incorrectly installed gasket, fuel leakage due to a loose fuel pump, codes due to unplugged sensors, rough idle due to unseated injectors, and a host of other human factor related issues. The real problem is the person doesn't know, it's an accident, so "why am I getting a code 22?!"
Rambling aside, if it ran before you replaced the hub and cam sensor, go back and have another look. It should run without a cam sensor, so unplug it if necessary. Did you set the gap right? Rig up a spacer or anything else home-brew?
If it didn't run right even before replacing those parts, try unplugging your cam sensor anyway and see how that affects it. When you cold start it, do the RPMs jump up to begin the warmup cycle? When you first start it they should jump up to between 1,100 and 1,500 rpm then slowly drop back down. If not then take a good look at your IAC, or Idle Air Control valve. The PCM has no way to tell exactly where it is, it only knows what position it was told to be in. If the valve is dead (very rare) it may be stuck in the closed position. The PCM commands it to fully close when you turn it off so it's possible it's stuck there.
Good luck! Oh and try www.bonnevilleclub.com, generally good people there and most of them have had so many problems they can personally related to just about anything you may run into.
Edit: Very sorry, HER, not his. :D
KaraTagesen
06-26-2006, 04:54 AM
No the car wasn't having these problems before (other than sounding like a damn 50 caliper machine gun because of the harmonic balancer lol). We cleaned out the throttle body and she is still doing the exact same thing.
Now I don't know if the gap was done correctly, what does that need to be set at? And how do you gap it? (God do I sound like a typical woman LOL).
We were also told that it could be the timing on the car, but seeings how thats all done by a computer, I shudder to even think about how much that would cost to get reset. Or its a Vacuum hose that is loose or disconnected.
If it is the IAC, where would one find that? I live in a lil town that does not have a chiltons for my car so hehe this is my only source for info.
I appreciate all the help I have received on this forum. Savin me LOTS of money so far although I feel like this right now :banghead: LOL
Thanks again!
Kara
Now I don't know if the gap was done correctly, what does that need to be set at? And how do you gap it? (God do I sound like a typical woman LOL).
We were also told that it could be the timing on the car, but seeings how thats all done by a computer, I shudder to even think about how much that would cost to get reset. Or its a Vacuum hose that is loose or disconnected.
If it is the IAC, where would one find that? I live in a lil town that does not have a chiltons for my car so hehe this is my only source for info.
I appreciate all the help I have received on this forum. Savin me LOTS of money so far although I feel like this right now :banghead: LOL
Thanks again!
Kara
richtazz
06-26-2006, 01:33 PM
Welcome to the forums. After the changed parts, do you have any new codes, or did the original come back? There is a magnet that mounts in the timing gear that the cam sensor gets it's signal from. It is mounted with a little plastic cage into a hole drilled in the cam gear, and with age the cage breaks causing the magnet to fall out. Without the magnet there, your ECM is not getting a signal from the cam sensor even though you replaced it.
KaraTagesen
06-26-2006, 02:11 PM
Ahhh this makes sense LOL. Ok, only thing is now, where is this magnet exactly located?
maxwedge
06-26-2006, 05:21 PM
Ahhh this makes sense LOL. Ok, only thing is now, where is this magnet exactly located?
On the timing gear inside the front cover, but this would set a code 41 normally. Try the basics as mentioned first, or have you done this already.
On the timing gear inside the front cover, but this would set a code 41 normally. Try the basics as mentioned first, or have you done this already.
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