93 S-10 Blazer 4x4 diagnostics...

Hi,
I just picked up a 93 S-10 Blazer with the 4.3L motor and 4x4 to boot. It looks a little rough bodywise, but the frame and engine look like something I can work with and with the size of our driveway, I'm gonna try. I got it to fix er a little and get it running good so I can drive it and maybe plow my own driveway, after I get a plow for it! I had to replace the fuel line hoses off the sending unit as they were leaking extensively. I also need to replace some lines because I see it leaking around the fuel filter area also. As for everything else, I did a little working and it seems like I have something to work with because most everything works on this thing. I tried using the 4x4 tonight and it goes into 4x4 high ok. All wheels are locked in and working. As for the rest of the options below 4x4 high, i.e. N (neutral) and 4x4 Low, it won't seem to go in to the lower areas. I was playing with it trying to force it into N and Low, but no luck, it won't go. Any ideas on what the problem might be and how I can fix it so it does engage? I'd like to be able to fix it all and have it working smoothly, finances permitting of course. We do-it-your-selfers like a challenge, but I do not have experience in 4x4's so any help you guys/gals can offer, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

when you go to shift with the chicken stick (the transfercase stick) you'll have to put the truck into neutral to get it to go into 4low. that's pretty much the only other trick i know. Other than that, the button for the shif lever has been known to stick, so make sure you press that good. If that doesn't wirk check to see if something is in the way. but the neutral trick should work.

The problem is that no-one ever uses the N or low range, so the shifter just doesn't want to go there.
If it doesn't shift into or outof low range for me in N I try park. And vice versa.
This usually works.
If it doesn't idel it forward as your pulling on the lever and this sometimes works.

I'll have my T-case hopefully pulled in the next 2 weeks and do have to look into freeing up the linkage while it's out. I will of course share my findings if it looks like it can be freed while the T-case is still in

hey overboard, if you need any help or tips about the t case, let me know, for some reason I've had was too much experiance in that catagory lately. I even have an extra one if you might neeed it. doubt you'ld want the whole thing, but parts can be made available :) they're just a joy to work on...

Nate and Overboard,

I'd like to thank both of you because your suggestions really did work. I had to make sure the button was pressed firmly enough while putting the truck into N from D, then and only then did it begrudgingly go into N. Then I fought it a little further and sure enough, it went into 4 wheel low. I agree most people probably never use N or 4Low so it probably get's "tight" after sitting idle for a while. Anyway, kudos to both of you. Just solved a possible problem for me. Appreciate it.

Mike

Oh, another note for you guys too. Is there an exterior spot I can hit with pb blaster to free up the linkage or is it internal? Thanks again.

There are 2 options: exterior=Hard, interior=easier, but a pain sometimes.

option 1: there is a spot but you're gonna want a pair of goggles. If you lay under the dirverside of the truck, you can see one linkage going into the truck coming from the shift knob area from the inside. It's a very tight spot but it's all there. There is a rather large bolt that the first pivot of the linkage sits on. some models like mine, came with a grease cert in it, you can hit that up with some grease if you like. But the real problem is going to be farther up that linkage. what it is is a a bracket that the shift knob will ride on, that has grooves in it for the positions. It looks like there was a mishapen E cut into the metal. but i don't think you can see it from that position without taking a lot of other stuff outta the way. You can either try to hit it from underneath and pray you hit that, or option 2 which is way easier.
option 2: take the plastic cover off from around the shift knob. (it's the big square thingy) then you can get to the insulation and pull that out. becareful while doing this, cause YOU WILL like it in one piece. trust me. After that is out of the way, you can see it all, everything i was talkuing about before. You can unscrew the chicken stick from the shaft, not a big worry. Then you can just hit everything with PB blaster, and let sit for a couple of minutes, workit around a bit, then put back together.
it's sounds like a lot of work, but it's not really too bad. that insulation is probably the worst part. i drove around with no insulation for a while cause "who needs it" my brother says. uh, yeah, if you like not hearing the road, you gonna need it.

enjoy.