stumbling

Having problems with stumbling during initial takeoff and when taking back off from slowing down. Have checked ign. timing and set, have new fuel pump, strainer, and filter, checked for vacuum leaks, checked dashpot and fuel reg., even ran some lucas fuel cleaner through and use only Chevron 93. Any ideas?

Having problems with stumbling during initial takeoff and when taking back off from slowing down. Have checked ign. timing and set, have new fuel pump, strainer, and filter, checked for vacuum leaks, checked dashpot and fuel reg., even ran some lucas fuel cleaner through and use only Chevron 93. Any ideas?

sounds like timing to me, or at least ignition related. If it only happens at certain rpms or certain loads, then that is a clear sign that it is ignition related.
Try 87 octane. Unless you have the ability to tune your car, 93 is actually causing you to lose power, since if you understand the properties of octane, it retards your timing.

Also, check your cam timing at the belt. Set your block to TDC (single mark on crank pulley aligned with timing belt cover) and then see if your cam gear is lined up.

It could also be your plug wires, cap, or plugs. Try some new cheapy plugs to see if it fixes it. If it's not that, borrow some plug wires from a friends car that you know runs good, just to see if it changes.

-bambam

Yeah, i would also sheck for loose wires on the distributor, I had a TDC wire disconnect and it would struggle and sputter if I was under a load, as in a steady 40 mph..if I stepped on it no problem. Just a note, also check for ECU codes, pull up the carpet in the passenger side under the dash and count the blinks that the red LED puts out.

Can never remember about how timing marks are suppose to be alighned, but ign. marks are correct on cover when check with light. Just replaced plugs, cap/rotor, and have accel wires that I put on several months ago. Will check those things again, and gonna try to spray out throttle body with cleaner. Someone give me a refresher on alighning those marks, if anyone knows off the top of their head. Oh, and yeah I know about the jumper on the pass. side.

Can never remember about how timing marks are suppose to be alighned, but ign. marks are correct on cover when check with light. Just replaced plugs, cap/rotor, and have accel wires that I put on several months ago. Will check those things again, and gonna try to spray out throttle body with cleaner. Someone give me a refresher on alighning those marks, if anyone knows off the top of their head. Oh, and yeah I know about the jumper on the pass. side.

you don't need a timing light or go thru all that trouble.

do this.
look at your crank pulley. You will see 4 marks on the edge of it. 3 will be together. Don't worry about those. It's the one by itself that you need to be concerned about for this. There wil also be a line (marker) on the lower timing cover. Line up this single mark on the pulley with the mark on the valve cover. Now, look at your cam gear/s and make sure they are aligned (up, and pointing at each other and level with the head). You'll be able to see clearly if you skipped a tooth.

Either jack the car up and spin the motor with a socket on the crank pulley, or put the car in fifth gear, and have someone sit in the car, while you pull/push it to align the marks on the pulley, then when they are aligned, have your budy ebrake the car.

Well, checked plugs and wires, but when checked dcap and rotor the contacts on the inside of the cap were about burnt off. Just replaced that dcap and rotor last month with factory parts from local dealer. Now what would cause that, or could it just be poorly made parts. Anyway, replaced with new, but stills wants to stummble. Now it's not to the point where it makes the car undriveable, I just have to rev the eng up to take off (more than normal).

could also be an injector as well. also a ignition module.

Well, seems I have a problem with the d.cap and rotor. Like I had mentioned previously, I just put a new factory d.cap and rotor on a month ago, and the contacts looked burnt(to the point of no contact). I bought another set, put them on, and now it looks like the same thing is happening. When I first put them on it seemed to resolve the problem, but the next day it went bact to stumbling during take off. What could cause the fire to be so hot that it burns the contacts?

Well, seems I have a problem with the d.cap and rotor. Like I had mentioned previously, I just put a new factory d.cap and rotor on a month ago, and the contacts looked burnt(to the point of no contact). I bought another set, put them on, and now it looks like the same thing is happening. When I first put them on it seemed to resolve the problem, but the next day it went bact to stumbling during take off. What could cause the fire to be so hot that it burns the contacts?

Take pictures. I'd like to see how bad it looks, because erosion of those contacts is a normal byproduct of the ignition process. I really don't think that is your problem.
Did you check your cam timing (NOT ignition timing) like I told you to before???

Timing is correct on all parameters, and wear is normal, but shouldn't have to replace d.c./r. every 3-4 weeks. What would make the fire from the Coil so hot, and what controls it? Someone mentioned the ign. module earlier, but seems that if it was faulty there wouldn't be any spark at all.

Welp, after all that trouble turns out I just had a faulty new set of spark plugs. Never have had this happen with NGK plugs, and have been through many sets, but my car runs like a top again. Thought after 212,000 miles that it was just time to get a new engine. Now if I can just get my damn A/C to blow colder than 60* again.