climate control head unit question

since i have the dual climate control on my 98 GP, would i be able to put in this kind of AC controller from an 01 instead of the one with the digital numbers? or are the wiring harnesses still going to be different? http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/pctvman/climatecontrol.jpg

No the wiring is different so it will not be a plug & play operation.

Don't want to hijack your thread but I figured why start a new one for another climate control question. What about switching from the standard ac/heat to any year dual zone head units? Other than I guess the door actuators and the head unit and wiring is there anything stopping me? The wiring I should have little problem I have All data so I should be able to get the wiring diagrams. The blower doors I could just replace the entire case to a climate control case. Am I correct or am I missing something major. Is there another body control computer for it that I also need to add or change?
Thanks John

All the actuators, doors, etc... under the dash are different between the climate control and manual, so you can't easily change from one to the other.

Don't want to hijack your thread but I figured why start a new one for another climate control question. What about switching from the standard ac/heat to any year dual zone head units? Other than I guess the door actuators and the head unit and wiring is there anything stopping me? The wiring I should have little problem I have All data so I should be able to get the wiring diagrams. The blower doors I could just replace the entire case to a climate control case. Am I correct or am I missing something major. Is there another body control computer for it that I also need to add or change?
Thanks John

I believe you would have to swap out the whole heater core/evaporator housing assembly which woud be a nightmare to include getting all the wiring properly hooked up. Even if you had a GM service manual it would be difficult because of the errors and inaccuracies in the documentation. The dual zones have two temperature actuators not just one like the basic HVAC unit. Also, the digital dual zone uses an ambient temperature sensor which would have to be wired in. You will need a blower control module and new blower motor to include wiring. The digital does not use a blower motor resistor.

I recall the advice we gave to the last person that wanted to do this was forget about it. But if you put your mind to it, have time, access to parts and the funds available to do it then nothing is impossible.

:werd: :iagree:

Ok thanks sounds like the time I'd invest in it is better spent lowering ets' instead of degrees.

Now that's the right line of thinking gprixgtp. Besides, the faster the et and speed, the more air flow to the cockpit. Who needs stinkin A/C?

Alrighty then, Intense PCM, SC pulley, and rocker arms here I come. Speaking of rockers what ratio is reccomended to run with the stock cam? And for those interested don't waste your time trying to design a ram air system. I found no way to get colder air other than a ram hood. If you run the intakes to the front nose you're blocking the radiator air and sucking hot air coming off the road. That is just as hot as the air temp in the engine compartment. Save your time and money, wait and buy a hood.
And as always thanks

Speaking of rockers what ratio is reccomended to run with the stock cam?

IMO 1.8 roller rockers. Best all around for street and cost. No valvetrain mods are needed like stiffer valve springs.

Ok thanks, those were the ratio I was looking at but read on some store faq that 1.8 did nothing. I figured they had to be wrong and I knew someone would know. 1.8 it then.

Ok thanks, those were the ratio I was looking at but read on some store faq that 1.8 did nothing. I figured they had to be wrong and I knew someone would know. 1.8 it then.

1.6 - 1.7 do nothing. I have SLP 1.8 roller rockers and you will feel the difference in the seat of your pants. ET at the track too.

From ZZP:

We spent a lot of time optimizing ratios and studying the market for rockers. Most people are in one of two categories. Those that don't want to change valve springs and those that do. We did extensive research to determine optimal ratios. We researched where valve float occurs with each ratio, what the difference there is between a used set of stock valve springs and a new set, and what RPM is optimal to spin your engine to vs. what rpm are people commonly running.

What we found is that even with stock shift points and the super light weight of our rockers, most people running higher mileage valve springs will still get valve float with our 1.9 ratio rockers. What we also discovered is that we could run very close to 1.9 if we kept the shift points stock (1.88). The problem is that there are gains to be had shifting higher. The second problem is that most people running rockers have an aftermarket PCM with raised shift points already. So to explain in basic terms: You are better off performance wise, running a 1.8 ratio with 6k shift points than you are running a 1.9 ratio with 5700rpm shift points.

Once we settled on an optimal shift point, we set out to pinpoint the optimum ratio roller rocker for use with stock valve springs. A ratio that would give the highest possible gains without the risk of valve float, even on higher mileage engines. We cam up with 1.84 and while this may seem a lot less than the 1.9's you keep the benefits of the lower spring rate. That means less tensioner wear and slightly less rocker deflection.


*1.9 ratio and higher require upgraded springs & retainers.

So much for the weenies that say 1.8's do nothing!

So much for the weenies that say 1.8's do nothing!

The best part is it is a bolt on mod that can be done completely in a half days work. Other than the roller rocker kit the only other parts really needed are valve cover gaskets.

The 1.8 rockers take valve lift to .464/.459. Stock rockers are 1.6 with valve lift of .413/.408. On a L67 engine you are looking at about a 15-20 hp gain. In conjunction with a smaller SC pulley like a 3.4" (25-30 hp) the combined hp increase is significant. The best part is streetability is maintained.