Balljoints and torsion bar

Hey, I'm about to yank my balljoints (one tire has worn severely on the inside track, as well as the steering being loose, I figure I might as well change them out) and had a quick question. If I support the lower control arm with a jack will I be ok to pop out the ball joints without having to undo the torsion bar? My chiltons says to release tension on the torsion bar and I really don't want to mess with anything I don't have to (especially important suspension components that are working fine as they are). This is my first truck with torsion bars in the front so I just wanted to double check nothing would explode in my face when popping out the balljoints. Thanks

You should be fine with a jack underneath...as long as your shocks aren't rusted to hell they should keep the tortion bar from taking out your kneecaps. Don't try to do it without removing the CV like I did--the chilton's manual is less than accurate for this. I also found it easier to reinstall the bottom one first. Try searching the blazer forum, there should be a good post with pictures and everything.

You should be fine with a jack underneath...as long as your shocks aren't rusted to hell they should keep the tortion bar from taking out your kneecaps. Don't try to do it without removing the CV like I did--the chilton's manual is less than accurate for this. I also found it easier to reinstall the bottom one first. Try searching the blazer forum, there should be a good post with pictures and everything.

Sounds good, I was thinking the same thing about just putting a jack underneath the control arm to keep it from shooting downwards after the balljoint is popped out. I was going to remove the CV too, I would assume I don't need to detach it from the center diff, I can just remove the hub nut, remove the hub itself and just push the CV slightly out of the way right?

The Haynes manual says to just put a jack under the lower control arm and leave it there during the entire operation.

Sounds good, I was thinking the same thing about just putting a jack underneath the control arm to keep it from shooting downwards after the balljoint is popped out. I was going to remove the CV too, I would assume I don't need to detach it from the center diff, I can just remove the hub nut, remove the hub itself and just push the CV slightly out of the way right?
Yep, just pop the hub outta the way and you'll be golden. Borrow a hub puller if you can too.

Yep, just pop the hub outta the way and you'll be golden. Borrow a hub puller if you can too.

Sweet, I got a 2 jawed puller, a pickle fork and a BFH some I'm sure I'll get it out one way or another ;)

This may help:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=545573

This may help:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=545573

Thanks, I did read through that but it had not mentioned much about the load on the torsion bar. Glad I got that cleared up though, when my 36mm comes in I'll be getting to work on it, I haven't checked yet but I'm hoping they've been done before so I won't have to chisel rivets.

On a '98 Blazer? Those are probably the original joints...so grab your chisel or die grinder. I'm dreading the same thing. 152k miles on my '96 Jimmy 4wd and the joints/bushings/steering coupling are shot. Found a Campbell-Hausfeld die grinder at Wal-Mart for $20 and working on an urethane replacement for the steering coupling disc (see other forum thread @ http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=576450)

To reiterate what's been said, I found my deep socket in the special tools section of Advance Auto parts for $19. I also ended up buying a 3' length of iron pipe from the hardware store for leverage in getting that hub nut off. I bought it big enough to slip over the handle of my torque wrench, making it easier to retorque it down when it's all done. Good luck!

On a '98 Blazer? Those are probably the original joints...so grab your chisel or die grinder. I'm dreading the same thing. 152k miles on my '96 Jimmy 4wd and the joints/bushings/steering coupling are shot. Found a Campbell-Hausfeld die grinder at Wal-Mart for $20 and working on an urethane replacement for the steering coupling disc (see other forum thread @ http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=576450)

To reiterate what's been said, I found my deep socket in the special tools section of Advance Auto parts for $19. I also ended up buying a 3' length of iron pipe from the hardware store for leverage in getting that hub nut off. I bought it big enough to slip over the handle of my torque wrench, making it easier to retorque it down when it's all done. Good luck!
Yeah, I needed to jump on a pipe to get mine off too, but you should never use a torque wrench like that--it's a precision instrument. Get a breaker bar for loosening those stubborn nuts. Canuk: make sure you have a torque wrench that can do 180ft/lbs.

Yes, what Goser said...I guess I wasn't clear enough on using the pipe. I wouldn't trash my torque wrench to get that honkin' nut off, but the pipe makes it easier to tighen it back down when you're done...good luck!

I didn't see it written anywhere but I'll make a note of it here for others tackling this project. YOU NEED AN 18MM CRESCENT WRENCH! No question about it, you NEED one. I lost mine. I just spent an hour in the driveway PAINFULLY removing all but the balljoint nut and the last 2 hub bolts only to realize all my frustration was in vain, you cannot remove the balljoint nut or the last 2 hub bolts with a socket, no matter what size the socket. Maybe if you have a special miniature wobble or something, which I don't have. Get an 18mm wrench and save yourself the headache ahead of time. Off to the parts store again for me...

I just got done changing my balljoints about 30 minutes ago. You can get the ball joint nut with a socket, but it's a PITA. You have to put the jack under the control arm, and raise it up to get a little more clearance. With the hub assembly off you push the half shaft over enough to get the socket on. It's not worth the trouble for taking the old one off, but you'll need to do it like that so that you can properly torque the new one. Make sure that you don't slide the half shafts too far out of the front diff.


Tools used:
3/8 drive rachet
7/16 socket
1/2" drive 18" breaker bar
3/4 socket
7/8 socket
15/16 socket
36mm socket
Torque wrench - I stripped the gears putting the 36mm nut back on the last side, so I had to guess on the one. :(
10mm wrench
2 x 13mm wrench
7/16 wrench
18mm wrench
13/16 wrench
7/8 wrench
15/16 wrench
BFH
pickle fork
Big ass puller
Angle grinder
Punch
Jack stands
2 1/2 ton SUV floor jack
Mini grease gun
2 tubes of grease

It took two of us about 4 hours.

I'm in the process of replacing the control arm bushings with urethane. So far, I've finished the left side and have to do the right on another weekend.

I unloaded the torsion bar first by marking the bolt's position with a shot of spray paint on one side then unscrewed the tension bolt. Then removed the big axle nut, then the caliper. Then pulled the hub bearing assy loose from the axle, then removed the assy. Removed the shock, unbolted the tie rod and sway bar. I popped the lower ball joint loose then drilled out the upper joint rivet heads and unbolted the upper arm from the frame (mark the position of the camber/caster adjuster cams first). That allowed the upper arm and spindle to come off as one. then you can unbolt & pop the upper joint loose w/o using a pickle fork. This makes drilling out the lower joint rivets a little easier too. Also, make sure you have a hanger to support the free end of the front axle.

After replacing the upper joint, reattach the spindle and drive in a new shaft seal (you might as well since you have it apart!). Grease it up and reinstall as the reverse of removal. Hope this helps!

With these vehicles, you don't have to drill the rivets out. There is enough room to get an angle grinder in there. It took me about 3 minutes per joint, to grind off the heads.

Well, if you had lent your grinder to me then I would have used one. Drilling was sufficient.

This job is just out of hand. I've done differential teardowns and rebuilds with less effort! I managed to get both balljoints out and the top one in before dark. I think the top one isn't right. Do you REALLY have to horse on the balljoint nut to get the stem pulled into the knuckle? I horsed on it HARD and the castle window and cotter hole lined up fine but it just seems like there's alot of space between the upper control arm and the knuckle. In fact when jacked up the rear of the upper BJ boot isn't even pressed against the knuckle and some grease is leaking out. WTF? Is it just at a weird angle from being jacked up or something? I was scared to turn the nut any more for fear of ripping the threads out... Maybe it'll look fine with a tire on and under load? I still am not sure how I'm gonna put the lower one in since I can barely get at those damned nuts, for the morning I guess.

Oh and I just wanted to make sure I put it in right, the upper BJ I slid through the upper control arm, then underneath I came up and bolted the grease boot under the control arm with the 4 bolts. This is right? I just want to make sure it's supposed to kind of "sandwich" the control arm with the top of the BJ and the grease boot from the bottom.




Man this job sucks.

You may have the boot too far into the lower (shiny) cup. Yes, the shiny boot retainer goes underneath the arm. Before you slip it over the balljoint shaft, push the boot into the retainer until it is almost all sticking out the bottom except for the thick lip. The retainer should only be holding the thick part when you slip it onto the shaft. When you tighten the joint nut down, this should press the domed end of the boot against the knuckle face.
You only need to tighten the nut down to the recommended torque and then just enough more to line up the notches with the hole in the shaft for the cotter pin. And don't need to grease the ball joint shafts before reassembly.
I didn't have much trouble getting to the lower balljoint nuts, since the knuckle is still loose at the bottom...unless you have your jack positioned right under there. My method of removing the knuckle and upper arm together may be overkill in your case, but it did make it easier to gain access to the lower joint. BTW, when I removed the old lower joint, there was a lot of dirt and crud wedged in between the balljoint assy and the lower arm. So, after I installed the new joint, I sealed off inside there by squirting silicone sealant all around the grease fitting, then wiped the excess away. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the reply, the bottom one was a nightmare to get back in. I should have removed the top and the bottom then installed the bottom first. I got it all back together and tried to put the grease fitting in and BANG, striped the grease fitting with little to no resistance. I don't even want to think about doing the other side right now. Crap job and awkward as hell.